Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.
Gonna try to turn this into a giant Q&A.
Post your question, and I'll answer to the best of my ability (or try to find you the answer and cite sources). Quote:
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http://www.chinmotorsports.com/ http://nasa-se.com/ http://www.drivenasafl.com/ http://www.scca.com/about/?cid=44433 You can also look into Skip Barber; they're expensive, but generally get excellent reviews. Quote:
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And topless girls get all the guys. Or is that more gas less wet? http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php...age&img=245036 http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php...age&img=245021 Quote:
That being said, if you look at our engine failure, the journal bearing on our cyl 2 is pretty heavily damaged, but our oil level wasn't ever low, and we never ran anything stickier than a 235 R-Comp, ever. The absolute limit of lateral G before oil starvation is yet to be determined. However, the oil pan design seems to be pretty good for pickup... https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.n...18217898_n.jpg https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...80634745_n.jpg Quote:
Data is the best way to determine this. Quote:
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Harsher mounts will reduce play. Long term effects are still unknown, but based on anecdotal evidence from other cars, I'd speculate that it'll reduce movement, and increase wear on the components that are being stressed more by the lack of movement. If you're trying to find a good balance of tire life and maximizing tire potential on grip, that seems to be a pretty fair amount of camber. Adjust according to wear to maximize life; adjust by pyrometer for maximum grip. Quote:
Will OEM rear pads last with front race pads? Sure. Keep in mind, your brake bias will be at the front, and you're going to be overworking the fronts, leading to significantly decreased front brake pad life. I recommend using similar compounds front and rear. If you don't do the pedal dance, then your rears will overheat and wear quickly. Compromise/mixed-duty/hybrid pads are, by definition, a compromise. Nothing does it all. That being said, I street drive on race pads, and with proper bedding, noise is minimal; my setup easily passes the "girl test". If you want long pad life, invest in a big brake kit, and proper brake cooling (ducts). Brakes not used much compared to what? If you have/need an in-car instructor, forget about your lap times. Focus on the coaching you're getting, and your lap times will naturally drop. If you're still carrying an in-car instructor, their knowledge and guidance will far outweigh the extra weight. FWIW, the extra weight isn't a huge lap time difference to begin with. In my case, less than 1s on a 2:00 lap with a ~160lb passenger. Quote:
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Budget friendly and what I consider essential mods in Italics. Performance: - Good dampers (cannot stress this enough) - Camber Bolts and/or camber plates - Alignment (only if you have alignment mods... otherwise you can only do toe) - Good tires Preventative mods/parts/maintenance - Appropriate brake pads front and rear, not just front; prevents brake fade (you don't want your brakes to stop working) - Appropriate brake fluid; prevents brake fluid from boiling or pedal getting mushy (same as above) - Big brake kit (reduces operating cost SUBSTANTIALLY) - Alignment (bad alignment will increase tire wear and decrease performance) - Good fluids for oil, trans, diff (something that can take high temps) - Oil cooler (keeps oil... cooler) - Larger Radiator (stock radiator barely keeps engine cool) - Tune (until they fix that transient ignition timing map thats destroying injector collars..) Quote:
If I were building a high budget race car, bushings would be on my short list... but I wouldn't want to daily drive that car. Quote:
- The pads last longer and are thicker; the pads themselves are larger, offering more heat sink mass, and have more pad material (almost 2x the mass of the stock pad). The key here, is that pad cost is almost the same! Talk about value... - The Rotors last longer (they're thicker, and have WAY more surface area for cooling faster) - The kit as a whole keeps the entire braking system cooler, again, leading to the ability to use less aggressive, less expensive pads while maintaining function, reducing pad cost, and again, longer pad life - The Rotors are two piece, and only cost marginally more than OEM rotors (~50% more) while offering substantially more life (300% and counting on our set) - Brake fluid is lasting longer; we've yet to bleed the system after we originally installed it. Additionally, see this thread for more info on why we chose the AP. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36766 Quote:
These fluids are multiweight, but are slightly thicker, so please keep in mind the gears will feel notchy when it's cold, and you'll hear the LSD "locking up" when it's cool outside and the car is not warmed up (under 50F, and making a U-turn when the car is completely cold). The tradeoff is the fluid's ability to handle more heat and abuse without breaking down. That being said, any high quality fluid will work, and you can't go wrong as long as you have something good. I'd recommend a full synthetic, and use the Motul stuff personally in my S2k. Quote:
We run Motul 300V oil, and seeing 270F has zero effect on the oil itself in terms of breaking down or losing ability to lubricate. Quote:
Alignment is frequently used as a band-aid fix for handling/suspension/balance problems that are caused by other parts. Sways and tire pressures are also common bandaids. Brakes and radiator is ALWAYS a great choice. The car runs hot from the factory, and keeping temps down will help EVERYTHING under the engine bay, not just the engine, last longer. SS lines are strictly a preference thing, but brake lines, IMO, are a wear and tear item that should be replaced regularly. You don't want to have a brake line fail on you, ever. I change brake lines on my S2k roughly every 20 track days, but on the BRZ, you can likely go longer, as the brakes don't get as hot. CSG is working on a cooling solution that will be a direct drop-in replacement for the OEM radiator that is more efficient. As with all the products we offer, it will not be the cheapest on the market, but it certainly will be one of the best products you can buy. We use Speigler brake lines on the CSG BRZ. I have used Stoptech and Endless lines on my S2k. The Endless and Speigler lines are similar in construction quality and type, and are superior to the Stoptechs IMO. Quote:
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The lesser angle is the winner in a "general" sense, because he will grease out the tires slower. Quote:
No, but I don't use them, because they might get stuck on the hub, which means you're going to potentially have issues putting on another set of wheels later. Additionally, plastic ones may deform and/or melt onto the hub or rim. They're nice for "centering" the wheel, and taking the stress off of the lug nuts when you're initially tightening them, but ultimately, the lug nuts are what hold the wheel on, as well as force the wheel to center. If you want to get super technical, they are added unsprung rotational mass. Hubcentric SPACERS: I wasn't aware that they made these, but spacers are fine as long as either you're using the proper extended studs, or are properly torquing them if the spacers give you an alternate set of studs. Personally, I'd recommend you get extended studs (ARP) and use cheap ebay spacers, if you need spacers at all. There are times where I spend money, and there are times where I don't, and spacers are just giant shims in this case. The studs you should never skimp on. Quote:
Also, try on as many as you can, so that you can find one that fits your head best. It's kind of like how everyone's head is either an Arai or Shoei shape. Quote:
If you take the pads off, you can see if there are signs of glazing/fading. If you post pictures, I'll be more than happy to give you my feedback. Quote:
That being said, as long as you're not SLAMMING gears, you should be okay. The stock clutch doesn't grab hard enough to REALLY shock the gears; you'll notice a screeching noise if you do really really hard shifts. This is the clutch slightly slipping on that fast shift, which is absorbing some of the shock load. |
Does the transmision on these cars can handle good track days? I want to autox and go to sebrin
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Why are you so slow?
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What are some good 2-day racing / track education courses in the South?
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http://www.chinmotorsports.com/ http://nasa-se.com/ http://www.drivenasafl.com/ http://www.scca.com/about/?cid=44433 You can also look into Skip Barber; they're expensive, but generally get excellent reviews. |
S2k or brz?
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So wich one you recomend for a weekend track racing
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At what level of modified grip (tires/suspension) does the engine oiling system need to be modified?
I see a lot of Subie wrx's die at the track with apparent bottom end failure from oil starvation. High G corners with sticky tires seems like dry-sump will eventually be needed like the P cars run. |
Where(rpm) do you downshift (whats your cutoff for the extra shift being worth the extra torque)?
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And topless girls get all the guys. Or is that more gas less wet? http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php...age&img=245036 http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php...age&img=245021 |
How do I grow a bigger pair of cajones?
(Heart says GO! Brain says... NO!) |
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That being said, if you look at our engine failure, the journal bearing on our cyl 2 is pretty heavily damaged, but our oil level wasn't ever low, and we never ran anything stickier than a 235 R-Comp, ever. The absolute limit of lateral G before oil starvation is yet to be determined. However, the oil pan design seems to be pretty good for pickup... https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.n...18217898_n.jpg https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...80634745_n.jpg |
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Data is the best way to determine this. |
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This. I was able to more effectively navigate the track after a ride-along with you at WSIR. I can't wait to see how the new wheels and tires handle!
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How significant are lighter weight wheels on cornering speeds/lap times? Do you gain mostly in braking/accelerating?
Also I feel like my transmission is getting rocked around as the shift nob moves all over the place through corners and over bumps..will harsher mounts really improve anything or more just feel? For camber is -1.8F and -1.2R a good set up for street use and occasional track (HPDE) use? |
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Harsher mounts will reduce play. Long term effects are still unknown, but based on anecdotal evidence from other cars, I'd speculate that it'll reduce movement, and increase wear on the components that are being stressed more by the lack of movement. If you're trying to find a good balance of tire life and maximizing tire potential on grip, that seems to be a pretty fair amount of camber. Adjust according to wear to maximize life; adjust by pyrometer for maximum grip. |
Tom |
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Will OEM rear pads last with front race pads? Sure. Keep in mind, your brake bias will be at the front, and you're going to be overworking the fronts, leading to significantly decreased front brake pad life. I recommend using similar compounds front and rear. If you don't do the pedal dance, then your rears will overheat and wear quickly. Compromise/mixed-duty/hybrid pads are, by definition, a compromise. Nothing does it all. That being said, I street drive on race pads, and with proper bedding, noise is minimal; my setup easily passes the "girl test". If you want long pad life, invest in a big brake kit, and proper brake cooling (ducts). Brakes not used much compared to what? If you have/need an in-car instructor, forget about your lap times. Focus on the coaching you're getting, and your lap times will naturally drop. If you're still carrying an in-car instructor, their knowledge and guidance will far outweigh the extra weight. FWIW, the extra weight isn't a huge lap time difference to begin with. In my case, less than 1s on a 2:00 lap with a ~160lb passenger. |
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Thanks for your help, I will try track pads front and rear. Maybe wimpy track pads like the Ferodo 2500. |
Stupid question, but kinda track related. Where does one go to get helmets? I cant seem to find anyplace near Dallas that has them that I can try on. I have a large melon, and helmets (football, for example) have always been a problem for me, in size, comfort, etc. and I would really prefer to put it on before I buy one....
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What camber and caster would you recommend?
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First off, thanks a bunch for putting your time into this thread, you're really helping the community out here.
Down to the questions, albeit rather...."unanswerable" What would be your top 10 AutoX and HPDE performance/preventative maintenance "modifications" for the budget minded driver? Many of us new owners are young, without a ton of money to throw at the car, but want to enjoy it for what it is meant for. While I realize AutoX and tracking the car are ENTIRELY different situations, what are the best things you can do to add performance and maximize the life of the vehicle in its entirety? FWIW from my research the winner is a tire upgrade, followed by things like upgraded differential fluid (as some have found it to be "burnt" after track use), crash bolts, pads, sway bar etc... Also, if the answer to my first question didn't cover this, how concerned should us weekend warriors be with all the elasticity of the rear end? Do you think this compliance helps with component life in general, or would stiffening things up be better for the twins? Again, I realize these questions lay heavily on preference, but your opinion will certainly be taken more seriously than all those of the keyboard warriors on this forum. |
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Budget friendly and what I consider essential mods in Italics. Performance: - Good dampers (cannot stress this enough) - Camber Bolts and/or camber plates - Alignment (only if you have alignment mods... otherwise you can only do toe) - Good tires Preventative mods/parts/maintenance - Appropriate brake pads front and rear, not just front; prevents brake fade (you don't want your brakes to stop working) - Appropriate brake fluid; prevents brake fluid from boiling or pedal getting mushy (same as above) - Big brake kit (reduces operating cost SUBSTANTIALLY) - Alignment (bad alignment will increase tire wear and decrease performance) - Good fluids for oil, trans, diff (something that can take high temps) - Oil cooler (keeps oil... cooler) - Larger Radiator (stock radiator barely keeps engine cool) - Tune (until they fix that transient ignition timing map thats destroying injector collars..) Quote:
If I were building a high budget race car, bushings would be on my short list... but I wouldn't want to daily drive that car. |
Great thread Mike!
Question: Why would a BBK reduce operating costs substantially? Is it because of worn out rotors? |
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- The pads last longer and are thicker; the pads themselves are larger, offering more heat sink mass, and have more pad material (almost 2x the mass of the stock pad). The key here, is that pad cost is almost the same! Talk about value... - The Rotors last longer (they're thicker, and have WAY more surface area for cooling faster) - The kit as a whole keeps the entire braking system cooler, again, leading to the ability to use less aggressive, less expensive pads while maintaining function, reducing pad cost, and again, longer pad life - The Rotors are two piece, and only cost marginally more than OEM rotors (~50% more) while offering substantially more life (300% and counting on our set) - Brake fluid is lasting longer; we've yet to bleed the system after we originally installed it. Additionally, see this thread for more info on why we chose the AP. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36766 |
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This was my first time on track with the car, had 997 miles on it, no mods other than brake pads, fluid and brake cooling kit, even running stock tires. |
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Can anyone comment on why coolant temps are under control when oil temps are out of control? I was under the impression that coolant temps will go out of control when oil temp skyrockets.
I've got a 90F trackday coming up, but no way to log oil temps. I'll probably change oil after that event and send an analysis to blackstone and see what comes back. |
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After having the Scangauge II in my car for two weeks now, track temps were ridiculously high, and even driving around town is pretty high. 213-220 around town just cruising and 224-230 cruising on the highway at 75 to 80mph, not driving aggressively at all.
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My steering wheel gets inconsistently stiff while turning as if no more power steering until I force it pass that zone only to meet another stiff zone... How can I fix this?
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It's a great "guide" for when you're pretty close to overworking the front tires and understeering; it helped me learn the car much faster than I would have without. |
Hi CSG Mike, what transmission and diff oil would you recommend for weekend trackies? TIA
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do you have oil cooler installed? which brand? if not, why?
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