Insurance on the BRZ
 

Put a $500 deposit on my White Pearl BRZ on Friday and called TD Insurance to double check that my online quote of $90 a month was accurate...



Only to find out that my two accidents which I never submitted claims were "at fault" unless proven otherwise, and they won't even insure me.


Had to wait all weekend stressing about whether I can afford insurance now, let alone find a company that will insure me!


I'm located in Halifax, Nova Scotia. Does anyone have any recommended companies or brokers?

That sucks man.. first and foremost take care of your insurance or you'll be paying out of your ass for a long time. Once that is sorted then start thinking about a new car. That's what I would do.

Try ThePersonal, they were cheapest for me with an at fault accident and speeding ticket and I'm 19 lol

What are you paying out of curiosity?

Interesting how the two at-fault accidents which you didn't submit claims on comes back to bite you only now.

Do you actually have insurance right now? How is that happening?

Also, this is why you get insurance quotes PRIOR to buying a vehicle, not after.

If one insurance company is unwilling to insure you, chances are the other major ones will be unwilling to as well. You might have to see the coverage of a specialized provider that covers high risk drivers.

See here: https://www.google.ca/search?q=high+...hrome&ie=UTF-8

As for your $90 / month online quote - did you lie about your previous history? If that's the case then of course it won't be accurate.

Man, I would kill for $90 per month insurance - I pay just under twice that and I have zero at fault accidents (the one claim I made was because some asshat in a RAV4 backed out of a parking spot into me on the main road while I was waiting for a spot - wtf???).

i'm in the US and i'm paying $81 per month. I just got it last week so i'm going to call around and see if i can get something cheaper.

In Ontario, if the insurance company finds out you were at fault (from drivers abstract/insurance records), they will hold it against you whether you submitted a claim or not. I'm not sure if thats how it works in NS but I would assume so.

Also, if you didnt submit a claim, but you or the other party reported it to the police or their own insurance company, then that information is accessible by the insurance company.

This. I work in insurance, and so many people are confused when it comes to how things show up.

Quick crash course -- most insurance companies look at two reports, MVR and CLUE. Your MVR involves violations that you've been cited for and convicted of, while your CLUE involves claims and payouts. So depending on how an accident was documented, it will show up on one report and affect your insurance.

Example A. I ask a client if they've had any tickets or accidents, they say no, and then an accident shows up. Their excuse is, "Oh, I didn't get a ticket for that accident," or "That accident was dropped in court," or "It's not on my DMV record." Well, marthafocker, I didn't ask if they got ticketed FOR an accident. It's on there, sourced from the CLUE report, which doesn't necessarily coincide with the MVR and typically isn't accessible to the public.

Example B. I ask a client if they've had any tickets or accidents, they say that they didn't make a claim, and then an accident shows up. Again, they might have been ticketed for it (which is possible if law enforcement is involved, usually if they report to the scene and cite the driver for other things like speeding or running a red light) but didn't make a claim. Also, if it involved another car, perhaps the other driver made a claim. The company doesn't always notify you when there is a claim made against you unless they need your side of the story.

I am paying $327 every 6 months (with a $500 deductible). I have not had an accident/ticket in about 20 years and this is with all discounts applied (which I have a bunch). This is with State Farm whom I have been with since the 1980's. I priced it out recently at USAA (where I am a member) and State Farm is still cheaper.

Yeah, 20+ years worth of loyalty discounts will do that.

Speaking of which... what's the deal with car insurance discounts [in the USA]? I mean, the risk is still there. I pay premium in exchange for certain coverage. How does it add up? Is this a marketing thing or an actuarial thing?

I'm sure it's a bit of both. Loyalty discounts are going to help secure their customers and keep them happy while possibly keeping them from constantly searching for new quotes at every renewal. And perhaps there is some statistic that supports drivers remaining with the same company for an extended length of time being less likely to be in an insurance claim compared to someone who has hopped around.

Gotcha, yeah, there is probably some data that correlates jumping between companies with other risk factors. Same way credit files and other info is used to create behavioral models and yada yada yada.

It all comes down to this: Drive safe and take care of your shit. It helps everyone.

Even tho at the time I made this for Ontario, it still has a lot of good info on Canadian insurance companies.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23281

I only can get 95 a month with highest deductible and lowest liability coverage. I have no assets so...

Don't go with the highest deductible. At least get a quote with the next lowest ones, since a lot of times, the difference isn't too significant (unless you're young and/or have a crummy driving history). Or at least pick a low comprehensive deductible, since that one usually doesn't account for a big chunk of your insurance premium.

Also just get a quote for the next step up for the liability portion. Again, it may not cost a lot more. The minimum requirements really aren't a lot. Like I've mentioned, I work in insurance and have seen crazy stuff. Some guy hit a telephone pole, knocked it down and eventually cut off the power in a certain area, and it ended up being close to a $100k claim. Or if you hit one car, and that car hits the car in front of it, that minimum property damange limit will get used up really quickly. One of my clients has a car that was the last of five cars hit by a drunk driver. The guy had the minimums, so they paid out the maximum amount coinciding with their selected limit ($10,000), which wasn't nearly enough to cover all five cars. So they will probably send the guy to collections and have his wages garnished for a while.

listened to your advice.

I just raised my liability to decent values and kept my deductible at 250 for comprehensive. I could not imagine myself losing a car as well as being a slave for many years in order to clear my debt.

I'm not a citizen tho, and I could leave the country any time I want. However, I can't justify that by saving $15 a month. So yeah, I gave that in. At least, I have peace in mind when I'm driving my BRZ.

Just out of curiosity, if the insurance companies have access to this info, why do they even bother asking? :bonk:

I was quoted $1200/year for the BRZ and liability on my old car. The agent said the BRZ is a "group 31e" or something like that which means it commands a higher rate. I'm 28 but I have an accident from 4-5 years ago that doesn't help my cause. Is anyone else finding BRZ/FRS rates are just higher due to the nature of the car? I tried explaining it was a Subaru and it only has 200hp... ;)

My BRZ costs $3/month more than my 08 STI.

Clean driving record.

It's because for quotes, they just base it on basic information that you provide. The reports that they run do cost money, so it's not feasible for them to run it for every single person who calls in or makes a request online. If you go on any site, usually you will have to put in any tickets or accidents you've had, rather than them just pulling up every piece of information available about you.

You know how when you go to the DMV and ask for a printout of your driving history, and you have to pay? Same concept.

I am paying $4 more every 6 months vs my 2013 Genesis Coupe and maybe $30-40 more per 6 months vs my 2006 Mazda 3.

I pay $1700/year for both of my cars, BRZ and Integra GS-R. $250 collision deductible and $0 comprehensive deductible on the BRZ. Integra is liability only.

I have 2 at fault accidents on my record at the moment: $1500 from 7/2011 and $4600 from 4/2012.

When I sold my S2000 and bought the BRZ my insurance increased around $60/year.

My BRZ cost me $30 LESS a month than my 2010 SX4 did. 25 Years old and a clean record.

Wow, I'm paying 1733/year to insure JUST my FR-S.... $2M 3rd part liability, comprehensive, collision, $300 deductible, 10 year experience discount and 43% roadstar discount and it's a pleasure use vehicle....

I drive it on the weekends mostly and never to work, although my insurance allows me 6 days out of the month to drive to work.

ICBC blows.

700 a year for the FRS...state farm

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Thanks for the reply...appreciate the insider skinny...

9 dollars more a month than my last car (Corolla). 24 years old and 1 ding (that still shows) on the old driving record.

Before deregulated insurance in Mass, at one time I was paying 4400/year for a Cobalt. Almost had a heart attack when I saw the first quote from progressive back in the day because it was so low. I'm with Liberty now, paying under 90 a month with a 500 dollar deductible.

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Every accident that is reported to police or just to any insurance company is available to all the insurance companies. Just like the Medical Data Base for health insurance, you cannot escape what has been discovered properly by law. Quotes are based on the data you give them, but rates are based on the data they discover through institutional research. I pay $600.00 per year ($300 every six months) for full coverage with $250.00 deductible, but this is the twenty fourth car I have owned in 22 years with the same insurance company. (USAA). (I used to rebuild, then show (concours) and vintage race, and then sell, old Italian sports cars such as Alfa GTV's, Milano's, Lancia Fulivia and Scorpions as well as a few of the rarest old Fiats.)

Insurance companies want clients who they believe will not be a risk to draw big claims. This is simply the system of Laissize-Faire. Not always the desired outcome, but that is the system. Insurance is often a wonderful thing, but it can also be a nightmare (insurance for any purpose). As we all know, young people are always handicapped because of the claims experience of their peers. Not always fair, but no way around it.

Insurance is simply betting against possibilities. They charge more for those who are in the category of "higher possibilities" disregarding the reality of the driver itself. That is the 18-25 year old category. Good drivers in that category pay more no matter what their actual driving record may show. They consider it as too little data to establish a reason for a discount. It sucks but once you pass 25 it all keeps getting better as long as you don't have multiple accidents within a five year period or multiple speeding tickets.

FINALLY a fellow Canuck posting what I consider to be fairly close to what I pay.

I pay roughly $2200 per year to insure my Echo Hatchback. Ironically when I had my IS300, it cost only $1700 but then again I moved into what the Insurance Companies call a high risk area.

As for the fellow who posted saying he works for insurance companies? TRUTH. When an insurance agent asks me if I had a ticket or an accident, I always try to answer YES or NO. Nothing else. Usually a YES response will trigger more investigative questions and then I provide details like when it happened, what the nature of it was, etc.

Thankfully, I have no at fault accidents and only one reported accident (being backed into at a parking lot). Only one speeding ticket as well back in 2009.

Has the OP come back yet? I wonder what happened to him and his BRZ.

actually mine is $799 per year, or $66 per month.

Damn, I can't get mine lower than $105/month with a pretty good driving record. Care to share what company you're insured with? And I thought mine was decent lol!

me too :( I have clean driving record for 10 years. I guess the city where you live in is also considered high risk area.

Not to be a jerk or anything, but you guys need to stop asking who each other has when you are in different states. Rates vary from zip code to zip code, and from state to state. So even if you are otherwise the same (age, driving record, vehicle, coverage, education), if you live in different states, one company could have great rates in one state but absolutely terrible rates in another.

I've shopped around and getting quotes online! I only found one which has reasonable rates. You are right. It really depends on the location too.

My city's zip code is sharing the same zip code as my neighbor city which has been considered ghetto area. :(

Nice to know. I wasn't aware of the varying rates due to your location. I guess I just didn't look into it that much lol!

Location has alot to do with insurance rates.
My home address is in a rural area, full coverage with $250 deductible.. $49 per month! :D

I was surprised my 2013 BRZ costs less to insure than my 2010 F150.

Technically, I pay $91 a month. That is at $500,000 per accident, and $100 Comp. deductibles, along with a $500 Collision deductible.

I say technically, because that is for now. I'm 18 years old, and managed to con my parents to keep me on their insurance. When I move out, they'll kick me off and I'll go up to $270 a month :(