Is it true I have to wring out the motor if I want to accelerate?
 

I feel like the reason why I feel like the brz is really really slow is because I'm used to driving cars that make more torque and peak power at lower rpms. I probably just need to use more throttle (because mine is auto) to get more power out of the FA20.

The annoying thing is the intake resonator makes the cabin pretty loud at high rpms. It's discouraging me from going to the high revs. I gotta plug that up, soon!

Thats what the stereo is there for, to hide the crappy engine sounds

Yes this is usually the cas with high revving motors ie fc20 except our cars actally make more tq down low than normal 4 bangers do

In general, I find the FRS/BRZ similar to a small CC motorcycle.. you just need to get the revs up to be in the power band. I don't have any experience with the AT model so I have no idea what tips there are to keep engine in the right gear/rpm but I'm sure you can find that info here.

Usually, it doesn't start waking up until 4.5k to 5K stock..

And, yes, definitely plug up the sound tube. It cost me ~ 1-2 bucks and it makes a huge difference (and the stereo sounds twice as good instantly). Plus, if you get a tune or mods, you get to actually hear the engine realistically.

Just buy the Perrin intake tube for just over $100 bucks and delete all the junk

http://www.perrinperformance.com/brz...brz-inlet-hose

Yes. You have to beat the piss out of it to get it moving. "Proud of Boxer"? Ummmm...no. :bonk:

You can also purchase the Dynosty sound tube delete kit. 30-40 bucks

So, just like pretty much every other performance motor, then. F1 cars make peak power at around 12,500rpm. :)

EDIT: Just looked it up, it's actually 19,000rpm in modern F1 cars.

If you're coming from a V6/V8/V10/V12, you will not get used to having so little torque near idle.

If you're coming from a turbo 4 cylinder, you will be used to having so little torque near idle, but never get used to having no power up top.

If you're coming from a regular 4 cylinder, you're right at home.

I downgraded on power to switch to this platform. Instead of missing the extra oomph, just enjoy the chassis for its brilliancy. Kill the sound tube if you don't like it. Fastest acceleration will come from wringing the engine out. I honestly can't think of any modern cars that benefit from shifting before redline, but I've seen it in the past on cars with restrictive intake manifolds. It's a simple calculation if you have Excel, by the way. Just need a torque curve and gear ratios (weight, tire rolling radius, coefficient of drag, and frontal area if you want to see everything, and want to compare to other cars). Reminds me I need to make a thrust chart for this car.

The car I'm coming from was 4cyl 2.0t and make 288 WTQ at 3700 (peak) and makes over 200WTQ from 2,100 on. So I'm used to a 4cyl turbo that had gobs of torque near idle.

I don't regret my slowmobile, sometimes it's more fun to work hard to go fast... err I mean less slow!

Hahaha, you should see how it feels up at 8k feet. It frequently feels not very fast. I'm excited to see what it will drive like at sea level.

I definitely beat on this motor more than I did my mazdaspeed6. Just to get it to move similarly in traffic I tend to get it up to 6k rpm in 1st otherwise I'll hit that torque dip in 2nd.

That's not necessarily a bad thing. It's just a different style of driving. The thing really moves when you hit those upper rpm. I swear this car rewards abuse.

Is it true that I need to lubricate before I penetrate?

Some of the threads here lately...crimony

If you go the Perrin intake tube route will doing so impact the warranty?

ROFL!!!

Or you can spend like 1.50 and get a plug for the hole in the cabin. Did wonders. Doesn't clean up the engine bay though. For that you could probably find the appropriate bits at Lowe's for less.

Are you still on factory break in oil? The engine sounds nicer after a fresh oil change.

Radio really helps.

To make the car sound good, the important thing is to not rush it or try to go fast, the car's fine trotting along going slower than a camry or ford, but the power band will come to life at times and show some really good acceleration and sound if you take your time and let it happen not try to force it.

I'm up in colorado right now. car is slooww here!

At sealevel, try and get near redline; going downhill while entering the interstate, on 93 gas on a cool night at sealevel you'll get an awesome intake roar.

lol... I'm used to a v6 and a v8 so it was definitely a "culture shock" when I realized I can't drive this car the same. But when I think about the S2000, this car has way more low-end torque to help it move along. So it's not that bad compared to the really peaky honda motors.

I find for an auto, if I care about acceleration, I need to drive it in manual mode to select my own gears so the tranny isn't constantly upshifting and downshifting and annoying the crap out of me. Not that it's a bad auto at all. It actually shifts pretty fast. It's just programmed for fuel economy in full auto.

I think my wife's focus we traded in had more lowers torque sadly. But I mean can the focus drift? Can the focus hold a candle I the 86? Does it look as pretty? The same can be said for most cars. The car was built with upgrades in mind. Some like to go the NA route. A few bolt ons will get you a little power but honestly I think your kidding yourself if you don't go Forced induction if you feel slow. When I get in the TL and have "torque" or t least more torque its nice but the car in comparison is squishy and fat in comparison. It handles well enough but not like the 86. The steering and braking are sloppy. Go ahead ad complain but for every complaint there is a solution you just have to be willing to fix it by spending some time and money. The potential of this car is awesome. And you all know it or you wouldn't be here.

it's not really a complaint to have to adjust to driving a small displacement high revving motor and asking about it but I'm only speaking for myself, lol... we're talking about how to drive the brz so it can accelerate faster in regular city traffic not bitching about having to drive that way...

That drives me crazy to no end (having to shift as 6000 in first gear to avoid the torque dip). The only way to avoid the torque dip effects are to shift really low and just cruise around or shift really high and really zip along. No inbetween.

Just treat the throttle like an ON/OFF switch, you should be fine :burnrubber:

It depends on your dealership. I'd personally say there is no way in hell it could as it only replaces a plastic tube.

It's very easy to swap back to stock if you need to.

I said you have to beat the piss out of it to get it moving. I didn't say "moving fast" lol...just...moving...and I can't imagine ever categorizing it as a "performance motor"...unless the qualifications of being considered a performance motor include being weak, rattly, chirpy, etc...the engine is the absolute weakest part of this car imo...

please post it when you do!

:bow:

only til about 4-5k but once youre there why not take it all the way :lol:

Yep. I agree. I own both the BRZ and the S2000.

Basically, these characteristics are common to small displacement, high specific output engines. They tend to behave like racing engines, only delivering fun performance well up into the rev range. You almost have to drive them like your mad at 'em when you want to go faster.

The BRZ is less of a Jekyl and Hyde car than is my S2000. They're both fun, but not everyone's "cup o' tea."

My wife went out for a BRZ test drive with the salesman without me, returned and said that it was the most FUN car she'd ever driven, and that it's SLOW. ;)

I'll leave you folks wondering about buying this car ... to ponder that.

Your right foot will quickly find the firewall, and you'll think, "Wait. What?, That's IT?!"

But it's FUN! ;)

The funny thing is that for all this talk of "just keep it spun up," the car actually makes a lot of its peak torque output at low revs. It's true that you have to wring it out to accelerate at all quickly, but its more a matter of holding gears than getting into some high-end powerband if you ask me. It's not like a Lotus or Honda where you hit a second cam up there and suddenly the car just takes off.

But yeah, as others have said, it's kind of fun just screaming around near redline with your foot perpetually on the floor :D

It doesn't matter when it makes peak torque if the amount is pathetic.

I've had my FR-S for two weeks today and coming from a Big turbo SRT-4 (still have it) with a little over 400whp. Its a whole other world with the lack of power in the FR-S but what it lacks in power I feel it makes up for in handling and overall feel. This car is so much more fun to drive, especially on twisty roads, and it actually feels like I'm in a sports car. In the SRT it feels like I'm in an over powered econobox due to the fact that well.... thats exactly what it is lol. I do love the good amount of low end torque though that the FR-S has compared to my Neon. No need for downshifting when approaching hills. Also between the coilovers, solid motor mounts, and 3 inch turbo back exhaust I just really got sick of driving the SRT every day.

I deleted the intake resonator hose today. Big difference in cabin engine sound and how I feel about wringing out the motor. Now 4-5k rpms sound very smooth, quiet and pleasing to the ear, nothing like the horrible rice noises the intake resonator produced. 7k rpms still sounds like the brz is angry or a little stressed but that's about normal in any car. :)

BRZ Sound
 

I found I could plug the sound tube where it enters the passenger side firewall, but the best fix was installing the TRD CAI. That removes the sound tube, increases the air filter area and CAI volume and then you can hear the "real" engine sounds. Small increases in HP & Torque, plus more linear throttle.

Of course it sounds angry, it's pissed because everyone says it's slow.

Can anybody recommend a DIY sound tube delete wherein you just plug the firewall hole and the intake tube hole so you can remove the sound tube while keeping all else untouched?

I went to autozone to get a rubber plug for the firewall side and used a 1" pvc fitting to plug the intake side. I need to paint the PVC black to match the rest of the engine bay.