Broke the stock overpipe bolt :/
 

So while installing my front pipe today, one of the stock overpipe bolts broke because the nut did not wanna come out even tho it only had just a lil bit left to go not sure why it got stuck towards the end, so the bolt broke, i now have a leak, what can i do to fix this? should i just get a aftermarket overpipe? or would i need a tune for that


Thanks.

I haven't seen one up close, so I'm talking out of my rear, but perhaps you can press the broken stud out? Be sure to replace it with a bolt that can handle heat. On the other hand, since you'll have to remove the stock overpipe it would be the perfect time to put in an aftermarket one.
You wouldn't necessarily need a tune, but it would help you get the most out of a new OP/FP combo.

Got any pics? I'm gonna switch out my front pipe tomorrow night. If I can get a visual, maybe I can give some advice. Can you drill out the broken bolt? (Without ruining the threads on the nut of course.) Or take it to a muffler shop and get it repaired...

Well if i dont need a tune, might as well buy it

It got stuck most probably because it was cross threaded towards the end. Whomever assembled it doomed you from the start. There are tools to remove broken bolts.

Either that or use it as an excuse to get an aftermarket piece :D

Well fudge, i just spent $4k on the supercharger ugh fml, whats the cheapest overpipe i can get lol

Same thing happened to me. You'll have to drill it out or get creative, depending on how much of the stud is left. It'll probably be easier just to get an aftermarket overpipe. :)

I believe FA20 club. Hey, after 4K on the charger, its a good thing to start with the exhaust :D Good Luck!!

True, just wasnt expecting on upgrading the over pipe yet, i was planning on buying that along with UEL headers, but im SOL right now, unless i wanna drive with a leak :cry:

And also i heard the install is a bitch on the overpipe

If there is enough stud left you can try using a stud remover. You can get replacement studs from Pep Boys, Advanced Auto Parts, Autozone, etc. Just spray the stud down with some PB Blaster and let it sit a while, then use the stud remover. They have different kinds, one is a cam type and another is one where you hammer it on the stud and use a wrench to take it out. The stud is threaded in so you can't just punch it out.

it is a bitch to remove / install the overpipe. Easiest way is just to lift the engine a few inches.

Want to buy my stock overpipe, give me an offer?

Can it be done with out lifting the engine?

Ill go ahead an order aftermarket, might as well

i dont think you can? I couldnt twist it out even with the headers removed. it was just easier for me to lift it.

Maybe other members can chime in.

I got the stock out without lifting the engine. It was on a lift though, so I had a better angle at it.

I got my stock OP out and installed a Perrin one without jacking the engine up. Did it with the car on stands. Just take the heat shields off and you can remove it towards the back while twisting it. Installed the new one from the back in reverse.

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same thing happened to me. I ran a day with only one bolt, until I got to an exhaust shop to get it fixed...

"Just take the heat shield off"

Those bolts securing the halves to each other are a PAIN in the ass to get to.

I was about to say the same, also WD40 the hell out of it.. I found out if you let your car run for a bit then spray WD40 (careful propellant is flammable) it cools down the bolts and lubricates for easier removal while overpipe is decent hot.

I guess I got lucky then because mine came right off with little effort.

Same here. I did manage to cut my arm on something sharp though. It's all good though. Every successful mechanical job involves some sweat and blood investment!

The studs connecting the over pipe to the header on mine stripped the second time I disconnected it. I heated up the studs, removed them (they are screwed in) and used bolts to make install/removal of the header easier.

Maybe you can do the same?

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One of mine broke coming off for the very first time so it was a virgin and broke. I am pretty sure there was something mentioned about it in the "Issues" section at some point as being a pretty regular occurrence. The Motiv stuff comes with new hardware so no need to go buy anything separate.

I didn't have any issues taking the heat shield off first either. Could be a matter of what tools you have available to you. The over pipe literally only took a couple minutes to do. I have a Motiv over pipe and front pipe.

Well the reason i did not wanna do the over pipe is because i order the SC kit and idk if i will need a different tune for that, dont want the car running lean

Same tune unless you swap the header out.

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You pinky swear? :D

Yeah. Cross my heart!

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Well shit in that case im excited then.

Just to recap tho, i bought this

Visconti Tuning Vortech STG1
Full Vortech ProCharger Kit with EcuTek (does not include Upgraded Fuel Kit)

- Vortech ProCharger Kit (with everything seen below in pictures)
- EcuTek ProECU Kit (includes OBDII-to-USB Cable, EcuTek License & Software)
- V-Tune Forced Induction STG1 Calibration for Pumpgas
- Upgraded 3Bar Map Sensor
- Free Updates for Life
- Full Support Console Access

Right now i only have the q300 with catless pipe and overpipe running 91 gas.

this is why man invented v-band clamps :)

Get a small drill bit. Drill through the bolt. (it may come out by even doing this) Next go get a screw that is made for steel. Put gorilla glue on the screw. Drill that into the hole. Then proceed to screw it out in a couple hours.... Cheap and simple.

Happened to me too. I guess I'll remove the overpipe and see if I can tap the studs out and use different bolts. Chances are I will just get this thing prepped for an aftermarket overpipe and install it later this week.

http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...psdcfea450.jpg

Got mine off today what a b$&@& it was to get off. Came off in the end with some wailing on the wrench. Damn impact could t be of use.

I Broke My Overpipe Also, But Its Not That Much Of A Bitch When You Have A Lift:).

MAKE SURE YOU PUT ANTI SEIZE ON THE BOLTS.

Well the overpipe is out. I could probably grind it off and drill it out easy enough then use a different bolt.I'll probably just save myself the hassle and buy a new overpipe since its already off the car. The real question is I'm 6 bolts away from replacing the header... Go all the way?

Another pic:
http://i695.photobucket.com/albums/v...psd49ea981.jpg

Sorry to bump an old thread, but this has just happened to me as well. These must be sh*tty bolts, because my car has only done 600km and hardly seen rain.
Managed to get the overpipe out without an engine lift though - just hit lucky and it came free without any force after spending several minutes jiggling it in all directions.

Question:
The heat shielding is going to be a pain to reinstall with the overpipe in position - anyone know if leaving it off is going to cause major issues? Doesn't look like most aftermarket ones come with shielding.

My stock header has two plasma cut bolt holes now. I messed up one of the nuts bad trying to get it off for my exhaust. I'll happily trash that header when I get my aftermarket one.

Funny it is happening to all these people. The same exact thing happened to me also!

Sorry to bump an old thread, but is this happening to people on the OP to front pipe connection, or OP to header? I'm planning on installing a front pipe, but am worried about this.

just throw some soapy water/ WD-40 on the bolts before you attempt to take them off. The studs are on the OP to FP section

OP to front pipe for me. Front bolts seemed fine. Then again so did the other rear bolt.

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