Subaru BRZ with Proximity Key Fails to Start
 

For the second time now my Subaru BRZ failed to start upon command. The ECU seems to boot up and do everything normally, EXCEPT actually engaging the starter motor.

The first time I was in a dark gravel parking lot and eventually had to resort to pulling the ECU-B fuse (presumably the ECU ignition-off-draw fuse) and putting it back in to reboot the ECU. (mind you that was about the 7th fuse I pulled)

Both times it has happened I was in a hurry to get the car started ASAP as I was leaving parking areas and wanted to drive my shiny new car past my co-workers/friends to show it to them as they also were leaving.

I am wondering if I have run into a "race" condition bug in the engine ECU where I provide control input (i.e. start signal) too soon while it is in the process of booting up still, and I get it into a "wedged" state.

This second time I decided to video tape my troubleshooting procedure so that I can help the dealership/Subaru troubleshoot. See the video below:

[ame]http://youtu.be/4uwZpFu8Z10[/ame]

Anyone else run into this kind of issue?

Gotta love software!

-Eric

P.S. I absolutely love the car so I am not really unhappy in any way. I am pretty technically/mechanically adept, so no big deal so far. I do hate the stereo though and the Bluetooth is utterly useless. Also, I have noticed the passenger side window is not doing "auto-down" very well today perhaps due to the humidity. I have to press the button harder, or multiple times. Not sure if it is a switch issue, or if the force limiter is causing the "auto" down feature to kick off since there is too much friction.

Never had the same issue, although I had it MANY times with the push button start on my '11 Genesis Coupe V6. The dealer could never figure out what the problem was, and actually questioned if I reall knew how to start the car. So much like you did, I recorded it about 5 different times and they still couldn't figure it out.

It never really bothered me until one day I was late picking my daughter up, and it took over an hour to get it started. Frustrated to say the least.

I really hope this car doesn't start acting up like that.

The first thing I would do is replace the battery in the key fob. According to the service manual, if the key fob battery is low, you can still start the car by placing the fob near the push button start and the sensor there will pick up on it and allow the car to start. The fact that your car wouldn't start while you were holding the fob, but did start while you had it near the start button may be an indication that the battery in the fob needs replacement. Worth a try at least.

Yep, have had this issue but only once.

Ignition was ok with accessories all going but on pushing start there was no action from the starter motor a all. Tried the electronic key fob next to start button as recommended (assume this is for flat fob battery only) and still nothing.

Tried spare electronic fob. Gave up, tried 5 minutes later and it worked. Have not had the problem since.

It was like the immobiliser was engaging.

My HKS OB-LINK displayed error code P1604. Google showed this was "startability".

Has never happened again and dealer said no error codes were showing when I took it in for something else about a month later.

As I said, I think it was the immobiliser kicking in for some reason.

.

So I doubt this is the issue as the car would have reacted differently. It would have given me the flashing yellow key, or it would not have gone into accessory mode. Also, the car is only a few months off the assembly line. The Key battery should not be dead!

-Eric

Maybe, maybe not. But why not try just for the hell of it since it's a few bucks for a new battery? Just because it's a few months from the factory doesn't mean that you couldn't have gotten a battery.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

Well that was a surprise at the end of the video

Heh, yeah, so this time it did *eventually* start without pulling the ECU fuse.

It surprised me as well clearly...

-Eric

Ya this happened to me a couple of times. It seems by removing the key from the car "resets" the system. Starts right up after... I dont get it either.

You don't happen to live under high tension powerlines do you?

If the steering is loaded against the steering lock the car can't remove the lock pin it will fail to start. Easy to work out once you know what it is.. This is a possibility...

There is a thread about this... I've encountered it a couple of separate occasions.

had it happen a few times as well....

Agreed. It is likely a locked steering wheel. Wiggle it. I have had it happen several times.

Hmm, in both cases I don't think that the wheels were cranked at all one way or the other so I don't think there should have been tension up against the steering wheel lock.

If it happens again I will see if the steering wheel moves ok when in the "wedged" state. Thanks for the suggestion!

As to others comments about power lines, no, neither of these were anywhere near power lines.

Also, as to the link to another thread about things not starting: This is not even cranking the engine, so it is a totally different issue.

-Eric

I've had three start-refusals to date. The first was right in the dealers lot. In all cases I got out of the car. Closed and locked the door. Waited a few minutes.. then it will fire right up. Last week, I had an odd event when I shut the motor down after a drive, and it restarted all by itself!

I HATE keyless entry. If anyone made a KEYLESS entry delete kit, I would be first in line to buy it.

Wow, it started by itself? Do you have an automatic transmission or a manual? If it cranks the engine without the clutch depressed in a manual that could be dangerous!

I like the keyless entry/start feature a lot (have had other cars in which it has worked flawlessly).

From the posts here it sounds like several folks have had this happen. Perhaps if we can catalog everyone having this issue it would help raise visibility to Subaru.

-Eric

That kit already exists, you just missed it!!

Its called the BRZ Premium.

I love old style insert key and start.

They don't have those in the North.

Oh...

http://jimmysintension.com/wp-conten.../homer-doh.jpg

Very spooky indeed!

This is what happened; arrived home, pulled into the driveway. Pressed the clutch and brake, then hit the STOP button. Engine stopped, and immediately restarted. Like I said, very spooky!

The steering wheel lock is in a “wedged” state.

And your video proves it.

There’s something different in your video between the initial failed attempt to start and the final successful attempt to start.

For those of you who enjoy a challenge and a puzzle, I’ll put a bit of white space between this text and the solution below. See if you can find the answer without peeking at the solution below; it’s right there. What's different?





…












The green key symbol begins blinking rapidly at about twice per second when the START button is pushed but the steering lock fails to release. The car won’t initiate its starting procedure. Normally, the key symbol blinks slowly at about once per second. That’s the “key” to understanding this non-start phenomenon. The green key symbol is NOT blinking on the display at the end when the car starts properly. That’s what differs in the video and it’s what signals the nature of the problem.

What did the driver do differently? What he did was more inadvertent than deliberate; he moved the steering wheel slightly with his hand or leg as he entered/exited the car, freeing up the steering lock, so that now the car would start normally. It had nothing whatsoever to do with fuses, keys-on-the-roof, or anything else; just the steering lock.

Very simple.

See page 165 in the Subaru Owner’s Manual.

I’ve explained this before, yet, oddly, many people reject my explanation. I’m right, though. And if you refuse to believe me, then enjoy your walk home. :D

This should be in a sticky, since some owners may truly be faced with walking home, and the solution is not intuitive, however obvious it may be when once seen.

It could be a switch issue; I understand there may be a modified part available now or soon.

Then again, it may just be the routine business of needing to reset the window "logic" when the glass gets stuck in cold temps. It's annoying, but apparently necessary as the glass barely clears the metal car body if closed in the fully up position; a little flex and the glass could hit the body and shatter. So, it moves up and down, but at the "expense" of regularly jamming in freezing temps. This car does not like the winter. (I love it anyway.)

To reset the passenger window, go sit in the passenger seat and perform the following: using the passenger door window switch, open the window fully, then briefly pull the switch UP momentarily, partially closing the window, repeat , and finally a third time, this time holding the switch in the UP position until the window is fully closed and then continuing to hold for a few seconds more. You may hear a click sound as the system resets itself.

Now, return to the driver side and see if the window operates properly. Hopefully, it will.

Oh, I should add for the very young drivers who may not realize the obvious solution: Just wiggle the steering wheel WHILE pushing the START button, which will free up the steering wheel lock and allow the car to start. That's all one need do.

Note, too, that unlike the conventional key in the ignition lock routine where one turns the key and HOLDS it turned until the engine starts, this push start system does not require one to HOLD the START button down. Just give the button a brief press and the computer will start the car, engaging the starter for as long as necessary.

Think kindly of elderly Porsche as you DRIVE home, rather than walk. We Old Farts can still be useful from time to time. ;)

Porsche- I tested this a couple times today and it looks like you are 100% on the money. Thanks much!

Video proof of me re-creating the issue is here:

[ame]http://youtu.be/qCIxFpxjLYk[/ame]

Indeed, this should be sticky'd!

P.S. I don't get why having the steering wheel solenoid engaged/disengaged would have any bearing on it cranking the engine for you or not, but hey, whatever... I had no clue the car could even tell if the solenoid successfully engaged/disengaged or not!!!

-Eric

So this is exactly what I said in post 11, 4 days prior!

For understandable reasons, you don't want your car starting with the steering lock engaged.

I don't know, I guess I would rather the car start even with the lock engaged. Granted trying to drive this way would be impossible, but I would rather the engine start... I guess they have to listen to the lawyers.

I am assuming the solenoid control action is a one time energizing thing when the car turns on/off (rather than using electrical power to either hold it locked, or hold it unlocked). Both scenarios of requiring power to keep it in a given state would be bad under different situations.

So if it can't unlock the solenoid upon trying to start, it just does not let you start and you have to try again.

-Eric

even key start cars were never made to start with the steering lock engaged...

You're welcome. :)

Yup. This is what happen to me today. Messed around with it for a couple minutes. Got frustrated, grabbed the wheel and noticed it was locked. Gave it a shake and hit the button. Vroom.

Seeee? :D

This happened to my GT86 today.

I already asked towing from insurance company but I successfully started car during waiting for towing car.

I figured when driving that during problem green key fob light was flashing rapidly and read from manual that cure for this is wiggle to steering wheel and try to start again.

The proximity key battery lasts a long time.
Mine is nearly 3 yrs old and still works fine.
I keep a spare battery for it , in the glove box , just in case it fails.

I've been having this problem, but the car would start from a cold start. Usually it'll happen after driving the car for awhile, I'll get out to eat, get gas , or a quick errand and the car won't start. I'll wait around for 30-45 minutes and the car will start again.

Well, just figured out last night that it was the inhibitor relay that was the problem. All I'd have to do is wiggle it around and push on it, and the car will start right away. It'll have to do for now until I get a new one in.

Hope this helps.