PLM (Private Label MFG） Over-Pipe and Front Pipe
 

Hi guys,

Not sure if this is a re－post, I was reading some S2000 builds and they used PLM header. So　Ｉ　went to their website and found out that they actually make FRS/BRZ products.

I have never heard of this brand, so I'm just throwing it out there for people that are interested.

Private Label MFG Power Driven FR-S/ BRZ OVERPIPE

https://www.privatelabelmfg.com/v/vs...FA20-OP-2T.jpg

Private Label MFG Power Driven FR-S/ BRZ DOWN / FRONTPIPE (200 CELL HIGH FLOW CAT)(Direct Factory Replacment)
https://www.privatelabelmfg.com/v/vs...FA20-DP-2T.jpg

Private Label MFG Power Driven FR-S/ BRZ TRACKPIPE Muffler Delete

https://www.privatelabelmfg.com/v/vs...A20-TKP-2T.jpg

Here is there website for FRS/BRZ products:


https://www.privatelabelmfg.com/category_s/63.htm

Once again, I am in no way affiliated with this brand, so I know just as much as anyone else on the forum, if not less.

Thanks,

That script over the parts make them look all fancy...must be good :D

They're posted all over craigslist so they must be good. </sarcasm>

wonder why theyre so much cheaper than others

J2 is cheaper

I've actually seen a few of their headers on s2000s made decent gains (~5hp, which for the s2000 IS decent gains LOL).

if it's stainless and fits, that's about all i require. no point in paying a premium for pretty welds i can't see. i'll probably end up picking one up.

Lots of companies are able to sell for less by waiting for others to figure out the R&D and just copying the same basic design.

its not always about "pretty" welds, its about a correct fusion between the metals. a crap weld can lead to cracking down the road

i know. in theory that is a big issue i guess, but in practice i've just not had it happen. i've used everything from cheap-ass ebay stuff to super high-quality fm parts. the expensive ones look nicer, and probably are made better, but in practice there just isn't any real appreciable difference.

ymmv. of course the cheaper parts are more hit and miss on quality (or at least should be, not always the case). the biggest thing to worry about is material quality, which is of course a long term durability concern. generally a quick google search can at least get you a review to go by before you decide on one.

I ran the PLM Header on my s2000 and never had any issues after continuous use on the track, even with the jet-hot ceramic coating.

we did the R&D and product testing for their parts.

Im impressed with their quality but was not impressed with their customer service.

they wont even release dyno numbers to us

I have the PLM overipe ($200 shipped) and the fitment is as good as any other brand.

When you say the fitment is as good as any other, I hope you don't mean that it hits stuff and rattles like the Nameless and FA20Club over-pipes do.

I'm very interested in buying one of these so I really appreciate your feedback on it. Do the flanges look like 304 or nickel plated mild steel? Are you satisfied with the welds and fitment? TIA.

My PLM OP rattles when starting from a stop. The low rpm take off makes it rattle on something. When installing it I knew it would do this as it sits so very close to the subframe. Not happy. :(

So pretty much every aftermarket Overpipe hits the subframe and/or bigger aftermarket sway bars without stiffer engine mounts or mending the subframe to allow clearance.

Meh. I'm gonna keep my stock OP for a while.

My JDL over pipe doesn't hit anything or have clearance issues, and bolted up to my ARK front pipe 90% satisfactorily.

This is the second aftermarket overpipe I've owned (Motiv being the first) and to sum up what I meant- the PLM overpipe serves its purpose just as well as the Motiv overpipe.

Fitment is just as good and the welds are fine. I actually have the PLM overpipe mated to a 3" Full Blown Motorsports downpipe and does not rattle. But... I do have Cusco engine mounts...

In all honesty though, overpipes are really only necessary for the turbo cars. I don't even think the supercharged cars need an overpipe.

- Russell

We have these due into us tomorrow. We'll get some nice REAL Detailed photos, and post impressions.

Won't be able to dyno, but I can compare side by side to Perrin, Motiv, and etc.

Thanks for the info. I'm beginning to think that all of the 2.5" over-pipes are a just tight fit and that they need to be tweaked during installation. Maybe stuff spacers between the pipe and the sub-frame and sway bar before tightening the flange bolts. There is a lot of play in those 2 bolt flanges. I don't know how else to explain why some brand X, Y & Z over-pipes hit/rattle and other brand X, Y & Z over-pipes do not.

I'm back on the fence... Maybe I'll get a new over-pipe, maybe I'll keep the stock one. It's hard to justify the bang-buck ratio but it just doesn't feel right to leave that restrictive short section of pipe there.

Update?

no issues with their muffler delete...
i have an over pipe headed my way along with a t1r mid pipe and speedfactory v2 cat back.
the welds on the muffler delete were great so as long it doesnt hit anything it will be fine.

Any updates?

Yo took the photos. Should be up in a day or two. It's pretty standard stuff for cheap exhaust parts. Nothing fancy, cheap hardware, but will do the job.

I didnt read the rest of the thread but ive been having this problem as well ever since i installed mine. Does yours sound horrible when you start from a steep hill?

yes...

When I installed mine I didn't hear any rattles when I took my car for a test run. However the next day I heard the rattles when I started up my car. I'm going to take another look at my over pipe today.

I have read at by adjusting your idle RPM a bit higher via tune can help with the rattle. Might want to talk with your tuner.

my motiv overpipe rattled until i disconnected everything and pushed up on it while tightening it back up, bought me 1/2-3/4" clearance where before there was none. might be worth a try.

That's how I installed my PLM overpipe. No rattles at all. I have about 3/4" clearance from the sway bar.


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Well this is a first. Fix an exhaust rattle with a tune? Intredasting.

:popcorn:

I have seen FA20Club say this help with headers and a rattle issue. So it might help with the OP?

I plan on getting this over pipe, and it looks like I'm about to buy some used headers that the original owner got rid of because they rattled. Haha my car is going to be noisy as fuck.

Oh! And for anyone just beginning to look into a full exhaust system, the deal-maker about this particular over pipe is that it's the lightest one known to the general community as of now.

~3 pounds even!

Lightest Exhaust, Headers, and Front/Over/Mid Pipes

What's the nameless downpipe weigh? One piece front/over pipe combo.

Could also try heat tape on the subframe to dull the sound....

What do you guys think? Which is the better deal

FA20Club EL Header catless header plus PLM OP and catted Front pipe for 1300$
Revworks UEL Header + Motiv OP and Catted Front pipe for about 1250$

I am after a smooth sound and much TQ/HP I can get. I would assume FA20Club combo would be the better choice. My Catback is a res Perrin 2.5

I would say the Revworks header because the FA20Club one is actually 50% heavier than stock and almost 300% the weight of the Revworks header. Power and torque won't do you much good if your car is heavy.

Revworks. :)