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GT to GTS brakes?
Has anyone actually done this yet? I know there has been talk about it.
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I didn't know there was a difference?
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Ahhhh I see. The FR-S has the GT-S brakes - I didn't realize the put smaller brakes on the GT
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Hey there and yes I changed my GT rear calipers to GTS and put DBA 4000 series vented rotors on... simple.
You will need to put the larger GTS ones on the front then use a DBA 4000 or 5000 2 piece rotor.. I have the GTS fronts but used the Essex Sprint package with AP 4 pot calipers.. damn it stops well. I used the Ferodo DS performance pads on the rear.. that's all it will ever need. Depending on track days you will need to look at the front pads and flyid will need to be the good stuff. Hope that helps.. PM me if you need more :) |
I have a set of GTS at Import Monster if you want. Ask Aaron.
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Just becareful with the 4000s series I found them to be pretty soft disk. I had 324mm warp within 6months on my IS200 using standard Supra Pads (I had upgraded Supra 4 pots) It never saw any trackdays when the car was in my hands either. Really has put me off DBA.
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I think you'll find the problem was the pads.
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I wasn't using anything Special. How can standard Toyota pads be to harsh for a "performance disk" ?
Now if I was running a high performance pad or even a ceramic pads understandable but stock Supra pads? Disk should of lasted longer then 6months and the weight of an IS200 isn't much more then 86 despite having a boat anchor of a motor. :) |
When fitting rotors it's important to clean both contact sufaces.. any rust must be cleaned off with emery paper to get a perfect face to face fit.. that will cause 'run out' which will wear uneven ... it will also continue to knock your pads back which gives the feel of pulsing or warping and that ABS feeling.. the other thing is that many people drive to a car wash.. it's best done with a cold car.. a hot rotor with the slightest of hosing on one spot will quench that area of steel causing an immediate warp.. handbrakes left on after stopping on even a spirited run will warp..
I guess my conclusion here is that many things can warp a disc.. I have done it by not bedding in properly and buggered a disc... and that is with any number of brands.. I think the reason I have been with and recommend the DBA is because I have seen the process .. the 4000 and 5000 are cast in Sydney under very strict compound tolerances and treated machined in the latest equipment ... they test at random in a batch for everything you can imagine.. At the end of the day we have to bed our pads and rotors.. I generally use old pads to bed new rotors and old rotors to bed new pads ... I know I am off topic here but this is a big cost saving items for our 86 drivers... take it easy with your brakes till they are bedded and wash them cold no matter what brand.. Poorly bedded pads will wear out in no time at all as they tend to crumble. CR |
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Initially thats what I tought but not when they are warping every 6-8months mind you in that time I would of done about 20,000 - 30,000kms (86 has 33,000kms already and I had one of the first ones of the boat) and they were bedding in correctly etc Maybe they are not suited to a lot of driving? Mate in his MX5 just had his 4000 series warp on him too on the way to Bathurst and he only just put them in about 6 -8 months ago.
I was speaking to a mate who use to work at Repco and from what he was saying DBA changed their formula for the 4000s and are using a softer metal. Only just giving my opinion and my experience just so people can see both sides of the coin. I always thought highly of DBA until I had that experience with them. I'm considering Dexcel next for the 86 as its really put me off trying DBA again. :) |
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@000 Racing are there any spacers or anything needed? Or do they just bolt on? Oh and any issues with the EBD giving odd brake balance? |
On the DBA subject,
I have always thought DBA to be a superb manufacturer of Rotors, I recommended a friend who tracks his stock drivetrain 350Z to buy DBA's he did his research came to the same conclusion as me...good stuff...bought the full set. Now we are not strangers to brake systems, pads were properly bedded to rotors, driven on for about 1 week of DD use until our next track day. he almost made it through the 3rd session before the rotors were THRASHED, they didn't even last as long as the factory set of rotors, we were not using a necessarily abrasive brake pad (can't recall the compound we used but it was a dual purpose track pad) I still don't want to think it was just bad rotors but we eliminated every variable we could and the brake system was otherwise 100% rebuilt when the rotors went on, and functioning perfectly...he gave up and now has the 370Z brakes (akebono or akenobo...whatever i always get it wrong) those actually work... EDIT: ALL FOUR were thrashed |
I installed second hand GTS brakes to my GT.
All good. And fit under stock 16" rims. I feel slight firmer brake pedal that is probably due to brake fluid flush and braided stainless lines. I haven't tested it at the track to see if any difference in fade after a few laps. I expect only a marginal improvement. It is a very mild upgrade. |
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Hi guys, yes for the swap just a direct bolt on with the rotor upgrade to suit.. Quick and no issues. If you can get a set.. I do have a set of GTS front Calipers and GT front and rear plus GT factory rotors all new.
As for the DBA issues I will talk with them and have them look at the comments to see if there is any comment.. |
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It sounds like you have GTS front rotors and want to fit with the GT calipers. I did NOT test fit the GTS rotors with the GT calipers. Regarding the front GTS calipers. It is easy to get a second hand set of these from the wreckers. I have a spare set from a forrester. Also available from outback/liberty/wrx that use the same size rotor. The rear GTS calipers are more difficult to get second hand. I think they are the same as more recent WRX STI (using the sliding caliper) or Outback H6. This needs to be checked. |
So the master cylinder and all that shit is the same between the GT and GTS
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I'm going to go braided lines and Essex fronts, after some investigation. And yeah, master cylinder is the same.
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From memory the calipers for the GTS looked different to the GT.. plus the bracket held it out further.. hope that makes sense |
Aah....ok yup gotcha....
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All this talk about upgrading GT rotors and calipers to GTS ones, or swapping GTS calipers to old WRX monoblocs, I did a bit of googling, and found these brand new reproductions of the MY99 era 4 pots...
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/SUBARU-IM...-/261156802187 Thoughts? They would be a direct swap, right? |
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But the face of the caliper didn't fit the standard 16" rims. Need a spacer or different rim/offset to fit. (I think spacers are illegal in NSW) |
Yup, I know they sell them in Auto Barn but don't trust spacers ... they will stop the hub from locating and if you get the cast alloy type they can crack.. also they can cause vibration and pad knock off... I needed a quick set of rear wets the other day so I went to Ozzy Tyres and got some XXR 227's I think in 17 x 7 and they were $250 each.. I know they do the 530 in 17 x 8 or 8.5... anyway I thought I would try them over my big AP calipers on the front and fitted no probs..
The Team Dynamic Race wheels I got specifically made with my 35 offset .. I know you can get them in QLD for about $282 for 17 x 7 and $378 for 17 x 9 if you offset.. these are the Pro Race 1.2 and likely to be the strongest wheels on the market.. Look for Racer Industries ... just a few more options .. except they all cost $$$$ :) |
I picked up a set of GTS brakes today. When I get around to installing them I will post some comparison pics to the GT discs and calipers for future reference.
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Ooh. WRX brakes! That might be a cheaper option for me. I'm soon to be running 17x8 +35 (maxing out those arches!) with nice light RPF1s (plenty of space behind 'em), no spacers needed.
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Does anyone know if the GT and GTS share the same front pads?
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GT and GTS front pads are the same.Discs and calipers are different.
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