How difficult is it to replace brake hard lines?
 

I might have to replace my brake hard lines in the front and I was wondering how hard it is to do the install. I would be buying the OEM hard lines and hopefully they come already flared.

They would come flared.. not sure on this car but they can be a serious pain in the ass. We did the integra race cars with the engine/trans out, etc and I don't think it would have been possible with the engine in the car.. again no idea on this car though.

Not difficult at all. :)

EDIT: Totally didn't realize it was hard lines.:bonk:

I've read up on some other Subarus that you basically have to take out major parts, subframe, etc

You speaking from experience on this platform? I'm dreading the idea of doing this on my own.

Wait hard lines? Holy crap. I kept reading the regular brake lines. I take that back...hard lines are somewhat on the difficult side. Not sure how complex it is. :(

Did you mess up the hard line when installing a braided line? I'm confused as to why a nearly new car would need new hard lines.

PM me your email; I'll take a look at my diagrams.

Yeah I stripped some threading from installing SS lines a few months ago. I didn't know at the time but the instructions I was using were outdated and were only for the first version that mentioned the treading should go all the way down, not the revised SS lines I got which should show some threads and less turning needed to get them secure.

You didn't feel things getting tight and just kept going until they stripped? Holy balls. Usually it takes cross threading to ruin a line like that.

Thanks for letting us know. I was considering installing some SS lines but this has convinced me not to.

Really? I'm not trying to insult Hanakuso, but what he did is pretty bone-headed and easily avoidable.

Your car doesn't see winter so you shouldn't even be worried about rounding out the flare nut that attaches the flex hose to the hard line or a seized flare nut (usually the thing that people do). These things have single digit torque value...just don't use German torque spec and you'll be okay.

My condolences to Hanakuso, again, not trying to insult anyone here.

have a shop cut off the very end, replace fitting, flare, tighten.

Yeah it was a bad mistake. I've done SS lines before and I know the amount of tension needed isn't much. What threw me off was this,
I didn't know until it was too late but Jeff is explaining the first version. The new revision that is being sold basically fits more like how the stock sits. I did have a small leak and that led me to believe I needed to tighten it more. Thinking back, I should of reseat it. That is where I fluxed up.



I wasn't aware this is possible, if its just as safe and works then I'd rather go this route since its most likely cheaper. From my understanding is that we need a double flare. My car is leak free for the past 3 months or so and I've had a couple track days on it but just thinking about if it disconnects, I would probably have a bad crash.

Sorry that wasn't my intention tho. If youre careful you shouldn't have this problem. It's a really simple job but once you mess up the hard line then things can get messy

You can cut and flare them if there's enough extra line, which there should be if done carefully.. however, if it's not leaking just leave it be and deal with it if you ever need to worry about it. If you just stripped the nut portion (not the threads) I'd rock it forever and use vice grips to loosen/tighten :)

Dave, you're positively ghetto sometimes and I enjoy it.

I might try it out but the only problem I see is the bracket that holds the SS line might bring tension to the hard line or basically making it too short. The nut itself is totally good, just the threads are maybe 1/3 stripped

I'm in a similar boat... I replaced 3 out of 4 lines with stainless, and the last one rolled the nut... I plan on replacing a the hardline..

get a flaring tool, some fittings and patch it.

maybe try using a thread restore kit? No idea what pitch it would need to be, but its probably some type of tapered fitting anyways so that may not work.

I would try carefully re-tapping the threads to see if you can save them. If that doesn't work, you shouldn't need to cut more than ~1/4" off the line to replace the fitting and re-flare them which should be fine with the distance from soft line mount to fitting.

that hard line more than likely is routed through the engine bay into the ABS module. I redid all my hardlines on my STi because I moved the ABS unit into the fender to shave up the engine bay a bit.

Follow the line from the corner. It will more than likely wrap against the back of the firewall. You MIGHT be able to get it out, but when I did this my engine was out and it was still a PITA trying to get it out from behind all the other lines and such.

Your best bet is to do what others have said, cut and reflare, extend the hard line and put a new fitting on it. Either that or live with the stripped nut if its not leaking.

Have it cut minimally, R&R the fitting, then reflare. The bracket bends easily (~$10 part) just bend up and out at the neck.

An OEM hardline is ~40$ each from the dealer and is not a commonly stock or replaced part, you have to wait for it indefinitely. And snaking that hardline to/from the engine...well, good luck. It is already formed, bend it more during snaking...then you shoulda ordered 2.

Not speaking from a bad experience but from a research I did before I swapped to SS lines. Use PB Blaster - better degreaser because it doesn't evaporate as fast as a brake cleaner - will actually lube before it evaps.

I set up an appointment for this Saturday and they will check it out. I will mention just cutting and reflaring. I looked at the lines last night and the driver side might be doable with installing a new hard line without removing anything, but the passenger side looks much trickier and probably needs to removing a bunch of stuff.

As mentioned by others, replacing the line is completely unnecessary. Simply cut off the flare, remove tube nut, install new tube nut and re-flare the end of the line. Get a good flaring tool though, the cheap ones always do a poor flare unless you've got lots of practice. You also want one of those tubing cutters with the void for the flare to sit in, that way you're only cutting as much as absolutely necessary. Hope this helps.

I just got my SS lines swapped by a shop today. I ended up rounding both rear hard line nuts. The shop had to torch and use vice grips. Now they are forever mangled with vice grips.

Just curious if anyone has managed to reflare their lines successfully or had the whole line replaced?

Thanks​.