I have 3K to spend on my FRS. What would you recommend?
 

Title says it all. FRS is completely stock right now. However, I don't want to make it become a rocket bunny. I'd love to have a wide body kit but that means getting new tires and rims and that gets costly very quickly.

1) Should I get new exhausts? Big, agressive ones I like.
2) Springs to lower the car?
3) Body kit?
4) Tail lights?
5) Rims?
7) Diffuser?
8) Audi/BRZ LED styles head-lights?
9) Paint preservation detailing?

I don't want turbo on it at the moment.

There you go. 3K and I hope I can make my FRS stand out.
Your words?

What DO you want then?

Something like a Five AD kit (thats tackles body kit, lowers your car + rims ) and an exhaust!

It all depends on what is good for you. Most of what you have can all be done for 3k. Say around 1k for exhaust, 300 for springs, 1200 for rims, 180 for a nice HID kit, tint the tails (although I don't understand why people don't like the stock ones). That puts you around 2,800. I wouldn't do the diffuser unless you are tracking because the added weight doesn't really do anything with the better aerodynamics. And I'm not sure how much opticoating is, but it's worth it.

Do you want the car to stand out or do you want it to be faster? For faster, get yourself some performance driving instruction. It won't cost anywhere near the budget and it'll take the seconds off much faster than any add on.

If this is just to make it stand out, i would probably go:

1) Wing
2) Wheels ( the Miro 111's posted http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18980 look awesome)
3) tires to match the wheels. Whatever, honestly.
4) Maybe a drop like the guy in the wheel thread

That should suck up enough money for you to spend the rest on opti-coat and a paint protection film.

If not, then I recommend this:
http://www.oemaudioplus.com/mobile/systems/frs.html

And skip the dealer install :)

What's important to you?

Going faster: Go drive at a track with instruction, new tires AFTER you go through the Michelins

Looking "Cool": wing tint and rimz

Getting noticed: fart can, stance

Money to burn: put it in savings, don't be stupid

Picking up women::lol:

It looks like you are more interested in making the car look nicer vs performance. I was going to recommend a header back exhaust, air intake and ECU tune.

I really like the Nur Spec kit, minus the wing or the TRD kit.

that is kind of my budget too. heres a break down of what i've done and what im planning to finish with.

- tint (150)
- unichip (375)
- Armrest (90)
- Exhaust (550)
- Intake (260)
- Opticoat and full detail (400)
- Car Washing supplies for a long time (150)
- OEM Audio+ System 400 sound (950)
- HID lights and HID DRL and LED trunk and license plate light (75)
- VG Sharkfin antenna (75)
- boxer License Plate (20)
- Toyota badges blacked out front and back (55)

3150 total

in the future i may get:
- JDM clear corners (90)
- JDM frameless mirror (100)
- GT86 headlamps (lol i wish)
- cooler taillamps (400)
- rims (1500)

Just throwing this out there but HID kit shouldn't cost anywhere near that
http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/DD...ast-35W-or-55W

I have this one and it looks phenomenal and only costed me 30 bucks. googleing or just looking around at forums ddmtuning is a reputable brand with quality stuff. Don't be fooled to thinking you need to pay an arm and leg for a light bulb and ballast.

If you're looking to do it right, you need more than a bulb and ballast. You also need the projector. Get a projector retrofit kit or nothing at all. All you'll do is marginally increase your visibility while pissing everyone off (and sacrificing their visibility and safety).

Our FRS has stock projectors. If you wanted to replace the whole projector it'd be unnecessarily costly.

totally should get stance coilovers =]

Thanks so much for the quick replies guys! Really appreciate it!
So far, I want my car to be more SHOW and not so much GO (Stock+ custom ECU?).
Though exhaust counts towards go, it's also visibly SHOW.

These rims look sick:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...t=18980&page=2

Body wise,
I like the look of the:
1) 5AD Front lip and sides skirts
2) TRD "over the top" spoiler
3) BRZ Concept STI back bumper (with vent)

I'd love a hood vent too.

Thanks for the kind words guys. Gotta start making a list with pricing.

$1000 coilovers
$1500 rims/tires
$500 axle back exhaust

$300 for the complete retrofit kit from the retrofit source, includes projectors

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

If you bought the car on financing, throw it towards your principal on the loan.

If you have a mortgage, throw it towards the mortgage.

If you have neither loans above...

1- Tires + wheels
2- Advanced driver school
3- Helmet
4- Track day entry fees
5- Maintenance costs

Where did you get the unichip for 375?

During the january sale. this doesn't include the cable though (they can preload a map for you). Try PMing UnichipJack if you are ready to buy and he may give u a better price.

Depends on what you're looking for, but it looks like you want looks. Pick and choose what you want :)

Firstly, for free/cheap: (<$50)
1. Blackout headlights
2. Smoked/Tinted tail lights
3. vinyl wrap parts of interior/exterior (or plastidip)
4. LEDs!
5. Toyota rebadge

Definitely get:
1. Car cleaning materials! Wax/Detail spray/clay/(Opticoat)/etc. Keep your car clean!
2. Exhaust
3. Tint
4. Spoiler
5. Rims

Should get:
1. Intake
2. Coilovers/Springs
3. Lower body parts like front lip, side skirts,
4. Short/Sharkfin antenna
5. Dashcam!

Nice to have: (in no particular order)
1. Sway bars
2. Carbon Side Mirrors (About $300 I think)
3. New License Plate Frame or Relocater
4. HID
5. new shifter Knob
6. Rear trunk garnish
7. Decals! Stickers everywhere

borla uel headers, catback, intake, pulley, the rest on wheels

Halogen projectors aren't designed for HID bulbs. To do it properly, you replace the projectors. HID bulbs in halogen projectors blind people.

Can't you bend the squirrel finders in to fix the cutoff?
edit: nm consensus is its an ok solution but not the best

You still get a blurry cutoff, and you kill some of your peripheral lighting, so road signs and small debris or animals on the side of the road will not be easy to see.

Here's some good examples. http://www.ej8squad.com/thread-13685.html

Rims and rubber. $3k poof.

OR

Rubber, exhaust, pro detail, and springs.

You just need to really think about what you want to do. Also if you just $3000 laying around you should put some of it back into savings. So far i've spent a little over $1300 on my FR-S. Here's a breakdown for you.

Interior LED Conversion $60
Beat-Sonic Sharkfin Antenna $99
All Season Hexomat Trunktray $65
Carbon Fiber Insert $55
Rally Armor Mudflaps $125
Hood Struts $99
Rear Fog/ Brake light $96
Borla Exhaust $771

I've done almost everything I had planned as a start for my FR-S and I haven't even spent half of your budget. I've spreaded it out overtime as well and not all at once so I can enjoy each upgrade. Just some advice...

Make your car the way you want. All personalized and costumed by your own damned self.


Be unique.

didn't read the whole thread to see if you'd done this yet, but i'd recommend getting a dyno, see where you sit. then decide if you want to help your car breathe better, or lighten it.

you can buy 7 shares of Apple stock and feel good about being an Apple stock holder.

I was looking into getting that OEM Audio+ System 400 how does it sound? Does it produce good enough low end with an 8" sub?

Not bad advice. If you invested wisely and had just a little luck on your side that could end up becoming more than just your nest egg. If you retired in 40 years it could be worth somewhere around 250K. :)

I have still found the lighting from HID far superior to halogen. The only detectable difference with 6000K and the squirrel finder bent is the very outer periphery isnt as good as with proper projectors. This area is not illuminated with the halogen lighting pattern. . The main field of view is way brighter and the cutoff on mine is not blurry at all.

:word:

A quality set of rims and a set of coils. The car looks great as it is lines wise and dropping with quality wheels would set it off perfect.

If the car is financed, pay down the loan.

If it is not financed, put it in the savings fund for the next car you will need.

If 3k is just pocket change to you, then go nuts and buy whatever it is that you want. How the heck do you expect some random group of people to know what floats your boat?

Here is one option if you really need to stand out...

http://www.blogcdn.com/green.autoblo...ar_1_thumb.jpg

Not blurry relative to what? Standard halogens? Park your car next to one with real HID projectors and you'll see how blurry it is.

Borrow a helmet.. and spend a small amount on a track/DE day an THEN decide. Would be such a waste to make the car a stance/ricer mobile if you haven't made a proper decision to use what the car was intended for.

Then buy:
- FT86factory/Cusco strut front tower strut brace(whatevers cheapest)
- 2nd hand 5x100 +42/47 offset wheels(with good tread remaining if you can) ideally LIGHT WEIGHT ones - possbily 45-60lbs weight loss
- Voodoo/Flossy gear knob(huge impact on your driving experience right there)
- Whiteline Positive Shift Kit(KDT926)/CUSCO Transmission brace - for racecar sounds/vibration
- Whiteline rear cross member bushings(KDT922) - for that nice tight rear end
- Borla or any cheap UEL or even EL headers(huge diff right there)
- Invidia/Perrin/SRT.. whatevers CHEAPEST(and lightest) CBE exhaust
- Remove spare wheel - 40lbs weight loss
- DEKA EXT14 battery - 19lbs weight loss
- RCE Yellows or any other decent lowering springs
- Perrin shifter mount
- Scanguage for oil/water temps, etc
- Change your oil to something DECENT(if you already haven't)
- Change your tran/diff oil too(your car will love you for it)

Unless you plan on changing your bumper in the future, you should think about installing a clear bra. It's definitely preference, but I can't stand the look of chips peppered all over the front lol. You might not see any now but it's only a matter of time.

Relative to factory HIDs, halogens, etc.. The cutoff is quite sharp. Am I that tough to understand?

Unfortunately it's not so sharp with my xB though, there is a little "hump" over each side, presumably because there is no squirrel finder to bend and the HID tube emits light different than a filament, resulting in some unwanted reflections off the halogen reflector. It's not so bad that it's unacceptable though, at least for me.

I guess so. I'm just incredibly annoyed when I get blinded by HID kids, flash at them, only to find they're using their low beams.

Which goes back to my original statement, buy a good set of HIDs like what I got from HID Powerhouse. Not some crappy stuff from autozone that is universal.