Sealing And Deadening the Doors
 

One side project that I decided to do was to see how good I could make the factory stereo sound before replacing the stock system with aftermarket parts.

I had bought the outboard knee pads from JPM Coachworks which required the door cards to be removed to install them so sealing and deadening the doors seemed to be a natural thing to do. On my Civic Si, this had a MAJOR improvement in the sound of my OEM stereo and then any aftermarket upgrades.

Goals:
1) Remove resonance from the panels and attempt to create a better airspace for the door speakers to operate in.
2) Add a noise barrier layer and take care of the back wave behind the speaker to clean up the sound.
3) I was going to add as little weight to the car as possible.
4) I was going to make sure that I maintained all functionality and didn't obstruct anything.

Materials useage:
http://imageshack.us/a/img5/3870/lhdoorsealing14.jpg

• I had some left over Second Skin Damplifier from my previous car that I decided to utilize.
• I also bought a door pack of Damplifier to offset what I had.
• I bought two sheets of Overkill Pro closed cell foam.
• A set of Second Skin Speaker Tweakers.
• Some DAP Adhesive left over from installing my JPM Coachworks E-Brake Boot.
• Some plastic sign board to cover access panels. I've seen these done with thin wood, MDF and cardboard, but I prefer the plastic cardboard sign material because it's lightweight, and weatherproof.
• Duct Tape

There are enough DIY's on removing the door cards out there that I won't bother to go over this process. However a little trick that will help later is to take a crayon or something else non-permanent and trace the outline of the door card against the door itself. You will thank yourself later because this will give you the boundary of where the door cards cover.

http://imageshack.us/a/img267/7544/lhdoorsealing03.jpg

However it wasn't easy to find a picture of what the door looks like under the door card, so here's one for those of you wanting to see what detail there is:

http://imageshack.us/a/img841/8788/arhdoorsealing05.jpg

The first step is to remove the factory plastic sealant. Obviously this is the best time of the year to attempt this because typically there is a nasty bit of cleanup due to how messy this sealant is. But at this time of year, with the cooler temps, I was able to get this all off with a minimum of mess.

http://imageshack.us/a/img221/4349/arhdoorsealing09.jpg

If you do make a mess, or live in a hotter climate, a lot of paper towels and Goof Off will be your best friend in getting the rest of the sealant off.

http://imageshack.us/a/img41/6286/arhdoorsealing10.jpg

Something to note here... there are actually sound deadening on the outer door panels themselves from the factory. The white square you can see here behind the windows mechanism is one of the spots.

http://imageshack.us/a/img837/8985/arhdoorsealing11.jpg

The other spot is behind the speaker.

http://imageshack.us/a/img32/4603/lhdoorsealing10.jpg

With Damplifier, full coverage is NOT necessary to effectively deaden a panel, you are just trying to remove the peak area of resonance. Therefore instead of using large chunks, I was going to instead use small pieces, and use the technique of rapping on the panel with my knuckles to determine where there was a resonance or buzz to be dampened.

I probably still used too much, but after this, the door had a nice solid thunk noise with no ringing or vibrations. I also covered over any hole in the door that wasn't required for fasteners on the door car.

http://imageshack.us/a/img703/5599/lhdoorsealing16.jpg

At this point, it's the easiest place to install the Second Skin Speaker Tweakers. They go behind the driver in the door and break up the back wave created by the speaker. They attach with super glue gel and there's a potential here to make a HUGE MESS and damage your paint... which I learned the hard way on my Si... Fortunately I didn't make the same mistakes as before but you literally have to put the whole tube of super glue gel on the back, then hold it into position while it bonds. I always try to have some Damplifer underneath of it to give it a good surface to bond to. They're flexible so I let the end fold at the door beam.

http://imageshack.us/a/img834/3669/lhdoorsealing17.jpg

Once that was finished, then the next step was to construct panels to cover over the bigger gaps. My preference is to use the outdoor sign board material which is like a plastic cardboard but I've seen these panels done out of wood paneling, MDF, and regular cardboard but I wanted something that would be weatherproof.

To construct the panel, first you want to fit it to the area that you want to cover. I typically use a Sharpie to get a rough shape, and then keep test fitting and cutting away small pieces until it fits. you may have to put small slots into it to allow cables or wiring through.

http://imageshack.us/a/img823/394/lhdoorsealing18.jpg

Once you have your panel finished and fitted. You want to cover it with Damplifier to create a more solid/substantial piece that will not vibrate. You don't have to cover it exactly and use one piece, but I'll trace it out on the Damplifier and then cut it out.

http://imageshack.us/a/img849/931/lhdoorsealing19.jpg

The resulting panel can now be put into place and sealed with duct tape. Try to get all the edges but it doesn't have to be a perfect seal... there are still plenty of air gaps that air and water can escape from in the door, but you're just trying to minimize them. I admit this looks a little bit ghetto, but it makes the panels easily removable if you have to service the window parts. I've seen several methods of attaching these panels including using screws and sealant, and this is not only a less permanent way to close the gap, but you don't have to worry about accidentally damaging something by accidentally drilling or screwing into something.

http://imageshack.us/a/img842/5567/lhdoorsealing20.jpg

Now we look at doing the noise barrier with the Overkill Pro. This stuff is thicker than the normal Overkill closed cell foam barrier and though it does make it a bit less easy to put the panels back on, it seems to be a much more effective noise barrier.

The easiest way to trace out what you need is to put the door card down on it and trace out the shape with a Sharpie. Then cut it out with some scissors.

http://imageshack.us/a/img831/8168/lhdoorsealing23.jpg

The next thing to do is to hang it on the door using a bit of duct tape and drape it over everything.

http://imageshack.us/a/img29/5774/lhdoorsealing29.jpg

From here, you want to make slits so that any harnesses or cables can be passed through. You also want to locate and punch through holes so that the door card can be re-attached.

http://imageshack.us/a/img571/3028/lhdoorsealing32.jpg

Once you have located everything and have made sure that the panel is going to sit flat, cut a hole through for the speaker. The next step is to put some tape on the sides of the Overkill in a spot which will allow you to fold down the top part and fold up the bottom, so approximately where you fed the door cables and the harness through.

http://imageshack.us/a/img19/9660/lhdoorsealing36.jpg

Now this is where you need to be careful. Fold down the top of your sheet of Overkill and take your spray adhesive and slowly and carefully spray the door and the exposed Overkill with adhesive, for maximum adhesion it wants to be on both surfaces. This can be a serious B**** to clean up so go slowly... it needs time to "tack up" before it will adhere anyways.

http://imageshack.us/a/img855/874/lhdoorsealing38.jpg

When you're finished then slowly work the overkill up against the door and press until it holds on it's own. When you have the upper half stuck in place then fold up the lower half, it helps if you use a little tape and put the adhesive on the door and the other half of the foam, again, for maximum adhesion, both surfaces need to have the adhesive applied. Be very careful around the hole you cut for the speaker and some of the other holes, the adhesive will go through these and make a mess.

http://imageshack.us/a/img515/6323/lhdoorsealing39.jpg

When you're finished, fold down the bottom and press everything together... you will be much happier if you make sure you keep your holes lined up correctly.

The result is a somewhat form fitting layer of noise barrier on the door.

http://imageshack.us/a/img546/8702/lhdoorsealing40.jpg

You may need to clean up your trimming a little, but reinstall the speaker, make sure that you left enough Overkill around it so that it acts as a gasket for the speaker.

http://imageshack.us/a/img404/1351/lhdoorsealing41.jpg

Before you put the door back together... We want to address the plastic in the door card which can also vibrate.... significantly. All of those odd shaped pieces of Damplifier left over from making your panels work well here.

http://imageshack.us/a/img221/8671/lhdoorsealing42.jpg

Again, you don't need total coverage with this stuff... just enough to dampen the vibration. The tap test isn't as effective here so a bit of guesswork won't hurt.

http://imageshack.us/a/img407/7626/lhdoorsealing43.jpg

Of course, don't forget that the main goal was to install these beautiful JPM Coachworks Outer Knee Pads.

http://imageshack.us/a/img132/223/lhdoorsealing27.jpg

From here... you just need to reassemble the door. If you have a BRZ Limited then the lights in the door are a bit of a PITA to get plugged back in, and it does take a bit of force to get the fasteners back in and compress the Overkill. Oh... and make sure you have all of those rubber washer things that go on the fasteners in place. This is now redundant but they were originally there so that the fasteners didn't rattle while in the door.

http://imageshack.us/a/img200/2771/lhdoorsealing25.jpg

When you've finished both doors, it's time to figure out if all the work was worth it. I tend to work very slowly and deliberately and take my time doing this, and it basically took two 4-5 hour evenings to do this. If I'd just gone for full coverage I could've gone much quicker.

So did it make a difference.

OH HELL YES!!!!

I'd listened to a few choice tracks before, after I'd done the first door and after I'd done both doors. The difference is amazing. My test track was "Satellite 15...The Final Frontier" from Iron Maiden's "The Final Frontier" which I picked because the intro "Satellite 15..." features a staccato chaotic mixture of drums, bass and guitars that are hard to pick out and certain points caused massive buzzing in the panels when the bass note is plucked and allowed to ring out. The bass is distorted through the intro, which makes it hard to pick out if it's speaker distortion or the recording (it's the recording, but will distort a speaker pretty easily). From there "The Final Frontier" starts with a staccato snare hit and goes into clean tone bass, harmonized chord progressions and features a lot of wide open spaces for the vocals and the various melodies to ring out.

I hated listening to this song in the BRZ before... because everything muddied together in the intro and it's a long intro... the song is 8:40 in total. This is one song I used to listen to a lot in my Si and so I could barely stand to hear in the BRZ. Once the doors were sealed, the panel rattling was gone, and you could pick out each individual instrument... it was a night and day difference and the song now has the sound it deserves.

I probably drove around for another couple of hours after that I picking several other songs for dynamics including Rush's "2112", some of my Initial D techno and several Pink Floyd Albums. I still need a sub, but this mod definitely gives those door drivers a punch and a depth that they sorely needed, and when the bass gets busy it remains clear and distinct and doesn't just muddle together.

The next step... we're currently working on the rear seat sub woofer box/storage box/amp rack setup since the back seats in this car are useless anyways, and once I get the Sub ready to go, then that will be the next addition with some more sound deadening.

Oh... and since Damplifier is .35 lbs per square foot, used 8 2 square ft sheets total, plus the Overkill Pro and the Speaker Tweakers, I don't think that I added much more than 7 lbs to the car, which is a perfect result!

Excellent DIY. Thanks for posting it up.

(From experience) Many brands of duct tape will degrade after a couple years. Typically the adhesive will get yellow and crusty... and the cloth can separate from its backing. It will continue to hold just fine though.

How do you like the Speaker Tweaker pads?

Thanks for the write up. I'm planning on deadening my BRZ doors and am using SoundDeadenerShowdown.com as my source of info. Understanding the difference between CLV vs. CCF vs. MLV was like climbing a mountain, altough in the end it's relatively simple stuff. I always thought sound deadener was a "one item conquers all" thing (no doubt due to dynamat marketing) so the biggest hurdle was understanding there are different items for different applications.

Sounddeadenershowdown talks about MLV (mass loaded vinyl) being the major sound deadening contributor. Is there a reason you didn't use any MLV in your setup? Was it weight savings since MLV is usually the heaviest of the three products (1lb per ft^2)? Was it because you aren't really trying to "sound proof" the door but "deaden" it? Not trying to poke holes in your plan just trying to learn.

I already put Dayton RS180-4 midbass speakers in my doors so I'm tackling this project differently than you. Going from 2ohm to 4ohm killed the power from the stock amp so it wasn't very beneficial, although a lot of the "mud" was removed. I did realize in the process that the door speakers are receiving a full range of frequencies (or close to it). Maybe putting a bandpass inline with the stockers will allow them to play their selected frequencies with sufficient clarity.

The same way that you can install "Bass Blockers" on your tweeters, you can bass block your midbasses. For a 4 ohm speaker, and ~80 Hz corner frequency... a high pass filter can be made from a 500 uF capacitor. LINK to Parts Express

If there are other crossover components, they may interfere with operation... higher order options can be made without too much headache too.

Calculator: LINK

I will be doing something similar to this when I do my system install, thanks for the details!

It's a lot to put your brain around... it's not the easiest thing to put into words either. maybe some analogies might help you with how they are working to block sound.

• CLD works as an absorber... it takes vibration and changes it to heat which is why there is a layer of foil to radiate the heat away from the butyl. It is the "Deadener" because it does not allow the metal to resonate or vibrate at the same frequencies.
• CCF works as a filter. It prevents certain frequencies from passing through it, but does not block or reflect sound.
• MLV is an actual "blocker" actually prevents a large range of frequencies from passing through. The way it does this is that it provides a layer that is so dense and elastic, that it doesn't vibrate except at a very low frequency.

So technically all 3 of them perform different tasks as far as sound proofing goes. The CLD dampens the metal panel so it does not vibrate in resonance with the sound and transmit it fully, the CCF filters a lot of the harsh higher frequencies that intrude into the cabin, and the MLV blocks the lower frequency. Each does their part, so even if you combine 2 of them, there is significant improvement.

With Mass being an enemy to these cars, taking a minimalist approach means that I wanted to get the best benefit for the least weight gain. Adding MLV such as Second Skin's Luxury Liner would've added another 7 lbs to each door and tripled the weight increase of my modifications.

Shankenstein, I like the Speaker Tweakers, I used them in my Si and there was a noticeable improvement after I added them, so I naturally just added them here. I think it helps to break up the back wave and makes the air compression by the speaker more distinct. I think it probably has a huge hand in cleaning up the "mud".

Thanks so much, this is a GREAT tutorial. I plan to use it later in the spring (its supposed to be -3F here tonight).

I like the idea of using tape so that it can be removed, but duct tape tends to dry out after a few years. I plan to use aluminum tape (the "real" duct tape). This doesn't dry out and should still be removable if needed.

Speaking of weight gain, did you manage to weigh/can you guesstimate how much mass you added?

Looks good man. I want to do most of my car (at least the problem areas) I figure I can combat the weight with some HP gain. Either way, being that you appear to be a SecondSkin fan have you ever seen or used their Sludge undercoating? looks handy for use in a trunk or on the floor panels.

Sludge is on my list of stuff to try when I do the rest of the car... I ran a bit over budget on my doors so its waiting for my next effort.

In the last couple of paragraphs of the original post I went into weight.... best guess is about 7lbs total.

Yeah I read that however you didn't provide a solid figure. Thanks!

WolfSongX,

What do you think of RAAMMat? I'm debating on getting their Package #2 and doing the doors much the same way you've done yours and using the rest to do the rear deck, trunk lid, and trunk floor. I'm planning to combine that with a set of Speaker Tweekers in the doors much like you've done.

FYI people looking for sound insulation while keeping weight down, Walmart has some good foam for this. Also, you cant beat the price!

http://www.walmart.com/ip/5-Zone-2-C...opper/15581041

http://www.walmart.com/ip/FASTTRACK-...opper/15581050

Ha, you scared me. I was waiting to see peelnseal when I clicked it. But ya I could see that working fine between the deadener and door panel.

This is excellent information, I just got my shipment of Second Skin Damplifier Pro and Luxury Liner Pro. I'm not as concerned with adding a bit of weight so much as quiting down the road noise and clearing up some of that mud you're talking about. The one thing I didn't get that now Im thinking about is the speaker tweaker. Im planning on tackling the doors this Sunday or at least one of them.

I need to pickup one of those plastic pry tools too, excited to get into it and if you do the wheel wells let me know, that's on my list as well.

I'm a big fan of budget alternatives, and these foams will work just fine.

One caveat:
Alot of memory foams are open-cell. As the name suggests, open cell foams are porous. If you cram lots of it in your doors, and the window seal is displaced by a few microns... you'll get water in your doors. This water will soak into the foam and stay there. Not only would that be heavy, it could get moldy.

That's the reason most sites advertise closed cell foam as the best way to isolate rattling panels.

Removing and resealing this is a growing concern for me, if it's done incorrectly does water or condensation get in the cabin?

I have been told by door design people the service hole cover or "garbage bag" is actually there to protect against water intrusion.
-- I can't speak specifically on this vehicle but I would be a little hesitant on completely removing it since I live in a place that has a lot of water.

I like the pond liner type material under the garbage bag to cover up the giant holes I bet you could notice a huge difference just from covering these up--I would probably reapply the service hole cover and seal it back up with tape since the butyl does not always stick once it is pulled down.

If you are worried about possible wetness inside the vehicle you could copy the service hole cover layout and make panels from Shoddy (recycled fibers) and pond liner (buy at home depot). You can cut them to fit just like the service hole cover does and then tape the shoddy and pond liner together with the pond liner touching the door panel and then tape it to the sheet metal.
You could pick out different materials or chose a different layout depending on your overall goal.
Here is an article on some acoustic materials
http://www.roush.com/Portals/1/Downl...dAbsorbing.pdf

I know it was overkill, but on my car, CLD covered the entire area the plastic. Problem solved! Used little bits of CLD to cover behind and over all the things that had to come through. Sealed up nicely.

RAAM Mat is good stuff. I can say nothing bad about their products and the guys from RAAM Audio have been sharing good knowledge on the Internet on various car forums for years.

At the time I got serious with car audio, Second Skin had launched a lot of sound deadening products and I was very impressed with the research and development they'd done, and I have stuck to their products ever since.

I could have just as easily went with RAAM Audio products, but I've already worked with Second Skin products and was very satisfied with them.

Just noticed the double post so I'll answer another question that was posed by Slizoth on how well sealed the door would be to moisture.

I actually did a better job of resealing the car from the factory... the garbage bag trim does have holes and slits for the cables and various wiring looms to come out and isn't a great seal. If you take a look at this picture you will see that there are several slits that are used to pass the wiring and door cables through at points.
http://imageshack.us/a/img841/8788/arhdoorsealing05.jpg

I addressed every single hole that was in the door either by covering it up with Damplifier or by using plastic sign board covered with Damplifier and the tape to seal it.

The only holes I did not plug were the holes for the plastic panels to clip back into. Each of the clips has a thin rubber washer on it and so they seal tightly on their own (and prevent the door panel from rattling as well).

Don't forget that the Overkill Pro is closed cell foam, and is a waterproof barrier in itself, and we're talking vertical surfaces here, so they will not have issues with water pooling and seeping through.

The door seals were an ucky mess... so I didn't keep them around... so unfortunately I won't be able to take any additional pics of them.

Nobody uses dynamat anymore?

Plenty of people do, any butyl based mat is pretty much the same in the end. its like debating the best brand of quaility motor oil. Just opinion and brand favor. Thats why Ive always said just stay away from ashpalt based mat, even more so if you live in the south, and you will be fine.

After reading this whole article, specifically this part I decided it was worth ordering a set of speaker tweakers. Being the idiot that I am, I didn't realize they come in pairs so now I've got two extra, doh! Secondly, I assumed they came with an adhesive but they didnt so... I have some Guerrilla Glue that should work well right? Finally, just want to confirm I have the procedure right...

Apply Damplifer
Place Guerrilla Glue on Damplifier Aluminum
Stick the flat side down on the Guerrilla Glue and hold? Ridges face the interior slash back of the door speaker?

got some damplifier pro on the way, going to do the trunk floors/lid, rear quarter panels, rear seats/cabin floor and doors.

I may end up going with a layer of their luxury liner pro over the cabin floor if i really want to quiet things down.

Sorry, just got back and read this question.

The Speaker tweakers used to ship with cyanoacrylate gel (super glue gel) which is basically thick and globby and will form a permanent attachment. I'm not sure of the composition of Guerrilla Glue, but if it's an permanent glue that bonds at the molecular level like super glue then it should be fine.

When I installed it... I put a piece of Damplifier on underneath so that had a surface to bond to. Then I put the cyanoacrylate gel on the flat back of the Speaker Tweaker and then slipped it inside and held it in place for about a minute. Ridge side goes out and behind the speaker, and you will have to fold one edge around the door beam to fit in directly.

When I did my Civic... I actually used Damplifier and glued clumps of closed cell foam to build up a platform on either side of the door beam so the Speaker Tweaker fit flat, but I figured that there was little benefit because all it is supposed to do is break up the back wave off the speaker and it didn't need to stay flat to do it.

I'm pretty sure someone will buy the extra set of Speaker Tweakers off you, or you could install them behind the rear speakers if you wind up replacing them.

Regular Dynamat is asphalt based mass loader... I believe Dynamat Pro is the CLD version.

Dynamat was one of the bigger names in the business back when I started, but various cottage industries were starting up and offering their sound deadening products as an alternative, companies like Second Skin and RAAM Audio, and they were offering a better product for a better price and their owners were out posting on forums offering their knowledge and experience and answering a lot of newbie questions.

Now these companies are more established, and the lines have blurred a little between them, but they're still good resources and the product might be a little more pricey, but they've managed to carve a niche market.

I do believe in brand loyalty, and when someone makes something that I know works and that I like and can count on 100%, I'll come back to them first, even if it's no longer the cheapest option. I know that I can send an email to Ant, the owner of Second Skin, with a question or problem, and that he'll address it right away. I know if I come back to them, then there's a good chance they'll still be around the next time I need something.

Sorry about the soap box... but that's why I buy what I buy. :D

Sounds like a solid plan. I think the luxury liner on the floors is a good application... and will keep the weight on the lowest area. Definitely post up your impressions when you're finished.

While Ant is likely very responsive, his handling of DIYMA and a few other things (Like the number of spam messages I get from him that I can't turn off...) turned me off of his products.

As you said, it's all down to personal preference as long as it's a good butyl product.

SoundDeadenerShowdown has been awesome to me and he's a very active member of the community. Came up with the idea of selling things in square tiles to ease installation as well. :)

Nathan

Ant's not a bad fellow. He built himself a small empire, but I just wasn't willing to live in it. He's not the only reason I left those circles, but the change in management wasn't strictly positive either.

Haha. Good to see I'm not the only one annoyed by the 3 identical reminder emails pointing to random ebay sales. Not professional.

Other alternatives: Audio Technix may not have the absolute best product in town, but I know Coleman will be at local shows and active on the forums supporting his products.

Audio Wrap makes a great product with strong metal backing. Installs look clean and flat. Good option if you're in the Colorado area.

I just went though the http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi website and wow. I learned a lot. Plus his prices are pretty reasonable.

Don is a really good guy. I messaged him on another forum asking if he had any b-stock tiles that he could part with, I needed one or two to fix the sound deadening on my parents' stainless steel sink. I got a box a few days later with about 20 tiles in it, samples of his other products, and a free roller tool for applying the tiles to uneven surfaces.

I'm planning on using the other 19 tiles on my car. I can't really see anything wrong with them aside from maybe a few dinged corners.

Nathan

I just tried the Mainstays 1.5" memory foam/foam combo and it did absolutely nothing to deaden noise. I'll be returning it and trying one of the other two once they come back in stock at my store.

Mass Loaded Vinyl will be my next step.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/120947784833

Due to my back injuries, I missed out on much of the politics on DIYMA since I wound up unable to sit in front of the computer for long periods of time. It actually didn't change until I got my first tablet a few years ago. By that time I wasn't really spending a lot of time on forums and especially DIYMA because I was unable to work on my car.

Thankfully we've managed to get my back pain under control so I can do small projects without causing serious harm.

So MLV is not necessary for the doors? will a CLD (like damplifier) compounded with a CCD (overkill) be sufficient?

I want to save my MLV (for weight and cost) to dampen the sound of the exhaust by using it in my trunk floor and quarter panels.

MLV will definitely improve your results if your goal is to remove outside sound from passing through the doors.

Using the CLD and CCD definitely reduces the amount of sound that is transmitted through the doors and makes a noticeable improvement as well as cleaning up the door speakers and giving them a more definitive punch, but you will still have some road noise coming through.

My plans are actually similar to yours... I'm planning to use the MLV that I have on the floor to help with the exhaust noise when I finally can afford to upgrade it. :)

I see.

Yeah the road noise can be annoying on freeway but locally the exhaust not really disturbs the music imo unless it blast it up to 30+ volume. Hopefully deadening just the quarter panels, rear seats and trunk will reduce noise well enough.

I'm planning on picking up an Invidia N1 catback in the coming week, so I'll definitely be looking to see what I can do to relieve the drone that some of the people are complaining about. The Invidia weighs 9lbs less than the stock exhaust, which should offset the weight of using the MLV and other materials.

This actually might be a good reason to pick up some Second Skin Spectrum liquid sound deadener to see how that works. Cure time might be an issue so I'll do a bit of reading up on that.

I will likely start a separate thread on quieting the exhaust, but I'll try to document the process and take lots of pictures. I might actually try to find an app for my smart phone to measure sound levels if I can find something that works well.

Wow just realized how poorly I typed that lol.. I think I was trying to say that when driving locally the exhaust note disturbs the music significantly unless I blast it up to 30 volume.