TF Brake Duct Cooling Kit
 

I figure this would be a more appropriate thread for our Brake Duct Kit.

Here is a quick sample of the prototype brake kit that's currently in development.


No clearance issues at full lock with suspension loaded.
http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server28...07.600.400.jpg

You can see (....kinda) the 6061-T6 aluminum backing plate inside the brake rotor. forces cool air to pass through the rotor vents.
http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server28...08.600.400.jpg

From the front view with wheels straight. You can see where we had to trim some of the fender lining for the hose to pass through.
http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server28...09.600.400.jpg

view from under the car. See the NACA Duct.
http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server28...10.600.400.jpg

We could barely notice the NACA duct was even there....
http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server28...12.600.400.jpg

:thumbup:
Hope you enjoyed....

This is awesome!

I like it as a rough draft but not as a final product. Good start though.

I like the 3 basics of brake ducting approach:

1: Fewest number of bends possible (increase airflow by reducing resistance)
2: Largest tubing possible (A 3" hose will flow more than twice as much air than a 2" hose for example).
3: Get the airflow as close to the rotor and as close to the rotor's center as possible so that the cooling veins in the rotor can do their job better and cool the rotor evenly. Do not point the ducting at the rotor face if you can help it. It looks like your aluminum adapter might be accomplishing this but can't tell from pics.

Considering this is not a FWD car and there are not drive axles to contend with, reducing the number bends in the tubing and pointing at the ideal location should be easier. Key word being "should". I do like the front scoop and how it's nice and discrete behind the grill.

Curious wht you didnt make the fog light into a ram? Been thinking of doing this on mine.

Sent from my flux capacitor using Taptalk

Just as a random thought bubble... It might also be beneficial, for the sake of reducing maintenance, to run a secondary duct directly to the back of the hub for the purposes of extra cooling to the wheel bearing. Now I'm just spitballin'....

rice_classic:

1. to accommodate proper hose length for full lock to lock without interfering with coilovers, we couldn't straighten out the hose or mount it in any other location.
2. There is no room for 3" hose to snake through. Also, if you look at the FR-S spindle, there is no need for a 3" hose, because there is hardly any gap/spacing between the rotor center and spindle. Even if were were able to get a 3" hose in there somehow, the opening to our back plate wouldn't be able to flow all of the air coming through.
3. You can see how our back-plate seals off the inside of the brake rotor completely to force air through the rotor veins. The back-plate is designed to a very tight tolerance to prevent air from escaping.
There is very little room to work with, but the final product will be laser cut with slightly larger opening with a shape that follows the exact shape of the hub.
http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server28....1280.1280.jpg

The location of the NACA duct will have the most direct air flow due to the shape of the bumper. We also didn't want to create any additional aerodynamic drag by creating more openings on the front bumper then necessary. Also, the location of where the fog light holes would be would capture some air, but not as much as our NACA duct on the front of the bumper.

Please let me know when this is available!

:thumbsup:

Very good work.


Adding to list of future race-car build parts. :clap:

Is there a reason why you chose the center grill instead of fog light cover under the turn indicator to run the intake port?

looks clean, I like that you used the center grill instead of fog light! any thoughts on doing this for the BRZ?

On an unrelated note this makes me want to use the center grille FOR fog lights. Lots of room behind it, it seems.

1. We decided to use the front grille because it keeps the cost down.
2. It is more direct air flow on the front versus under the turn signal due to the location of where the inlet would be and shape of the bumper.
3. Naca duct will capture more air flow then making a hole under the turn signal.
4. Creating more holes on the front bumper then necessary creates more aerodynamic drag.

This should work for both FR-S and BRZ.

This is not a NACA duct.

It appears to be a NACA duct, it's just not properly implemented as per the text book definition.

Do you even know what a NACA duct is? That's like saying a sphere is not properly implemented because it is a cube.

How many degrees is this lowering on track temp's?

The duct they mounted in the front bumper appears to have the shape of a NACA duct. My point was that duct was not installed in a way to make it functional which is typically flush mounted much differently than this.

You are instigating, if you have a point make it along with detailed information of what you are getting at.

NACA ducts are designed to be a low-drag inlet to take in air from a surface. They have a specific shape and mounting location, of which this has neither.

My point is that this isn't a NACA duct, as cool as it may be to call it one.

I'm getting tired of neato-sounding descriptions on parts that are wrong.

Technically Dimman is correct.
This is a NACA Duct:
http://www.agentfortyseven.com/racin...naca02_600.jpg

What we're using is typically referred to as a "bumper duct"

Now that is a proper explanation that can be discussed.
The only thing I am saying is he may actually be using a NACA duct in the front. You just can't tell from these pictures.

I agree with you, a NACA duct is not the type of inlet to be used for the application if you want to move air from this location to the brakes. But I we are arguing semantics. It's a prototype brake cooling duct. So for the final version he can use a different inlet duct, drop the term NACA and everyone is happy if it works and is affordable.

I don't think the name NACA duct is "neato" and will not be a determining factor for anyone that is interested in this kit.
Initially - we had few NACA ducts laying around that we were playing with off of one of the race cars - hence I used that term. My fault.

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If there is anyone on here that frequents the track and has had some brake overheating issues, and would like to test out our prototype kit - please contact me.
It's snowing here...
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Don't see this item on your site? Am I missing it?

It's warm here and I will be heading to the Sebring on April 13 ;)

Here you are sir.
Brake Cooling Kit <--CLICK ME

damn wish I would have seen that in december :(

I wish my engine was not blown :mad0259:

:(

Thanks!

Would it be possible to buy the kit without the ducts? I want to install the Gt86 fog light housing and duct the air from there.

Yes you can.
We tried to come up with a way to route a hose behind the foglight housing to the rotors, and we did not see any practical method of routing the hose to the rotor from that location.

We currently have a BRZ being tested at Carolina Motorsports Park with the brake cooling kit.

Don't you have a BBK on your car?

Yeah, that doesn't mean I don't see 1200+ degree rotor temps though :)

This is true.
We'd have to make a custom backing plate for the BBK.
Can be done...

When can it be done? I'll be at Sebring April 13th to test it... :) See here for the reason I'm considering ducting: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=659

Beast Mode Activated :clap:

On a BRZ.

http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server28...20.600.400.jpg

Awesome. I should get my new rotors in tomorrow BTW from Jeff so I'll measure the sprint kit then :thumbup:

Dave was that a Wilwood cracked rotor?

No, I overused my APs a little bit, pushed them just a bit too far testing how abusive I could be :)

It wasn't a crack like that wilwood failure :)

Make that Wednesday...