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-   -   What Amp to get? (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23454)

austell 12-02-2012 05:54 PM

What Amp to get?
 
Ok so I am installing 2 Subs. Im going to install 2 Kicker 4-ohm 8" CompVR's. Im looking for an amp under $200. Any reccomandations?

mashal 12-02-2012 05:57 PM

I have 2 - 12's kicker comps running off an alpine mrp500 and they bang . That's in my civic tho.. For the frs I'm going with a more subtle 10" jl w6 running with an alpine pdx 1000 . Smaller amp and stackable !!


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austell 12-02-2012 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mashal (Post 586602)
I have 2 - 12's kicker comps running off an alpine mrp500 and they bang . That's in my civic tho.. For the frs I'm going with a more subtle 10" jl w6 running with an alpine pdx 1000 . Smaller amp and stackable !!


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Well I do want to be able to run them at 200 OHMs. Or as close to that as possible.

Ginzhos 12-02-2012 06:21 PM

Check 5 channel Kenwood x-700-5, 188$ eBay...
@ 4 ohms 4x40 + 1x300
@ 2 ohms 4x50 + 1x500

austell 12-02-2012 06:38 PM

How good would this one be? Class D and would be able to run at 200 OHMs.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GM-D9500F-4-Channel-Bridgeable-Amplifier/dp/B00364QOA2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1354487832&sr=8-1&keywords=Pioneer+GM-D9500F"]Amazon.com: Pioneer GM-D9500F Class-FD 4-Channel Bridgeable Amplifier: Car Electronics[/ame]

mashal 12-02-2012 06:45 PM

200 ohms wtf ?


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Plxdjake89 12-02-2012 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mashal (Post 586653)
200 ohms wtf ?


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Seriously....what?

FreshFRS 12-02-2012 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by austell (Post 586628)
Well I do want to be able to run them at 200 OHMs. Or as close to that as possible.

200 watts? the PDX-M6 is a great choice. very compact will give you 300 watts to each sub.

More expensive but you get what you pay for.

I'm gonna be running an entire system off of 1 PDX-V9 4x200w + 1x500w. Hertz mille 3 piece components + Shallow 12" Stereo Integrity MB mkIV SQ sub .5cu/ft sealed box (deletes spare tire) . Pioneer P99RS headunit to control everything.

2forme 12-02-2012 09:09 PM

He's confusing ohms with watts.

mashal 12-02-2012 09:26 PM

Why would he run compvrs with only 200? Those things run at like 800 rms


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austell 12-03-2012 01:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mashal (Post 586653)
200 ohms wtf ?


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Meant watts lol.

Quote:

Originally Posted by FreshFRS (Post 586666)
200 watts? the PDX-M6 is a great choice. very compact will give you 300 watts to each sub.

More expensive but you get what you pay for.

I'm gonna be running an entire system off of 1 PDX-V9 4x200w + 1x500w. Hertz mille 3 piece components + Shallow 12" Stereo Integrity MB mkIV SQ sub .5cu/ft sealed box (deletes spare tire) . Pioneer P99RS headunit to control everything.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2forme (Post 586819)
He's confusing ohms with watts.

Quote:

Originally Posted by mashal (Post 586842)
Why would he run compvrs with only 200? Those things run at like 800 rms


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8 inch ones only do 200 rms

FreshFRS 12-03-2012 01:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by austell (Post 587197)
Meant watts lol.






8 inch ones only do 200 rms

hahah 200watts is nominal they could very easily take 300watts without a problem.

austell 12-07-2012 12:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FreshFRS (Post 587227)
hahah 200watts is nominal they could very easily take 300watts without a problem.

Im just gonna run them safe at 200. Im just going for added bass with more sq performance, not really just loud bust year ears out bass.

mashal 12-07-2012 01:04 AM

Alpine pdx's .. Small + stackable + stable + quiet = win


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6-Shift 12-07-2012 01:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by austell (Post 595426)
Im just gonna run them safe at 200. Im just going for added bass with more sq performance, not really just loud bust year ears out bass.

My recommendation: ALWAYS get an amp that is maxing out your subwoofer. All amps have tuning capabilities, and you don't want what happened to me. In my old Nissan Titan I put in a Alpine Type E 10" which is rated at 750W. Well, since I wasn't looking for anything crazy I put in a 600w cheap amp. Then, to my chagrin, I literally COULDN'T hear the subwoofer. As it turns out when you decide to go with an amp that is less powerful, that means that the amp cannot charge the magnet as well, which gives you less ability to move air/create soundwaves/hear bass. My recommendation is to find an amp that matches the max ratings for both speakers because, if you do that, you can always adjust the bass down, but if you go cheap/weak you can't turn the bass up! Just my .02

FreshFRS 12-07-2012 01:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by austell (Post 595426)
Im just gonna run them safe at 200. Im just going for added bass with more sq performance, not really just loud bust year ears out bass.

300 wont make them too much louder but it will give you head room to upgrade later. to run at peak efficiency which means better SQ you could turn the gains way down and it would. give yourself 250watts or even 200 if you wanted.

FreshFRS 12-07-2012 01:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Missourifornian (Post 595521)
My recommendation: ALWAYS get an amp that is maxing out your subwoofer. All amps have tuning capabilities, and you don't want what happened to me. In my old Nissan Titan I put in a Alpine Type E 10" which is rated at 750W. Well, since I wasn't looking for anything crazy I put in a 600w cheap amp. Then, to my chagrin, I literally COULDN'T hear the subwoofer. As it turns out when you decide to go with an amp that is less powerful, that means that the amp cannot charge the magnet as well, which gives you less ability to move air/create soundwaves/hear bass. My recommendation is to find an amp that matches the max ratings for both speakers because, if you do that, you can always adjust the bass down, but if you go cheap/weak you can't turn the bass up! Just my .02

for that sub you should only need a solid 350watts at 4 ohms to put the sub in optimal power. 750watts is peak you never wanna run that much power through it all the time. more than likely your cheap amp was rated 600 watts at 1 ohm. At four ohms you might have only been getting 100-150.

austell 12-07-2012 01:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mashal (Post 595474)
Alpine pdx's .. Small + stackable + stable + quiet = win


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Im looking to pay around 200 or less? Is there any that run at that price

Quote:

Originally Posted by Missourifornian (Post 595521)
My recommendation: ALWAYS get an amp that is maxing out your subwoofer. All amps have tuning capabilities, and you don't want what happened to me. In my old Nissan Titan I put in a Alpine Type E 10" which is rated at 750W. Well, since I wasn't looking for anything crazy I put in a 600w cheap amp. Then, to my chagrin, I literally COULDN'T hear the subwoofer. As it turns out when you decide to go with an amp that is less powerful, that means that the amp cannot charge the magnet as well, which gives you less ability to move air/create soundwaves/hear bass. My recommendation is to find an amp that matches the max ratings for both speakers because, if you do that, you can always adjust the bass down, but if you go cheap/weak you can't turn the bass up! Just my .02

So any recomendations on what to get?

Quote:

Originally Posted by FreshFRS (Post 595535)
300 wont make them too much louder but it will give you head room to upgrade later. to run at peak efficiency which means better SQ you could turn the gains way down and it would. give yourself 250watts or even 200 if you wanted.

So any recomendations on what to get? Im not going to spend over 250 and preferabally around 200 or below

austell 12-07-2012 02:08 AM

Im looking at the Alpine PDX-F4 but Im not liking the price.

FreshFRS 12-07-2012 02:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by austell (Post 595586)
Im looking at the Alpine PDX-F4 but Im not liking the price.

the M6 is probably your best bet. but the F4 is good too. The one thing to not cheap out on is your amp.

austell 12-07-2012 02:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FreshFRS (Post 595596)
the M6 is probably your best bet. but the F4 is good too. The one thing to not cheap out on is your amp.

I dont know how hard it is to do, but It seems to me it would be much harder to run a mono amp than a 2 or 4 channel? Also the price is just too high for me.

Ok. How does the Pioneer GM-D8604 Look? Its a brand new amp, and can run 300 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 4 ohms.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_130GMD8...04.html?tp=115

FreshFRS 12-07-2012 02:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by austell (Post 595601)
I dont know how hard it is to do, but It seems to me it would be much harder to run a mono amp than a 2 or 4 channel? Also the price is just too high for me.

Ok. How does the Pioneer GM-D8604 Look? Its a brand new amp, and can run 300 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 4 ohms.

I prefer a dedicated sub channel or a mono amp personally, here is a basic wiring diagram of how to wire your subs to a mono amp. http://m.seimg.net/product/img/subwo...4_ohm_mono.jpg

That amp would work however.

6-Shift 12-07-2012 03:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FreshFRS (Post 595546)
for that sub you should only need a solid 350watts at 4 ohms to put the sub in optimal power. 750watts is peak you never wanna run that much power through it all the time. more than likely your cheap amp was rated 600 watts at 1 ohm. At four ohms you might have only been getting 100-150.

Yeah you're probably right...if I end up moving that subwoofer to the FR-S I'm going to get a correct amplifier and a better box, the truck box it's in right now isn't optimal :( Audio stuff like this confuses me, especially after my experience with my first amp (sony xplod 600w amp btw, piece of crap). I feel like a 250 watt amplifier (according to specs the top RMS is 250) wouldn't even move the sub enough to hear it. Anyway, in response to OP you should check around your local audio shops, sometimes they'll be able to get good brands for cheaper than online.

FreshFRS 12-07-2012 03:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Missourifornian (Post 595687)
Yeah you're probably right...if I end up moving that subwoofer to the FR-S I'm going to get a correct amplifier and a better box, the truck box it's in right now isn't optimal :( Audio stuff like this confuses me, especially after my experience with my first amp (sony xplod 600w amp btw, piece of crap). I feel like a 250 watt amplifier (according to specs the top RMS is 250) wouldn't even move the sub enough to hear it. Anyway, in response to OP you should check around your local audio shops, sometimes they'll be able to get good brands for cheaper than online.

I'm going to run a PDX-V9 Running a Stereo Integrity MB MKIV Shallow 12" needs 350watts RMS and is one of the nicest sounding SQ subs i've seen. Combined with a Hertz Mille Passive/Active 3 Piece Component System (active woofers/ passively crossed over mid and tweet) it should be a kick-ass sound system. Pioneer DEX-P99RS source unit.

for your sub a PDX-M6 would be great. very efficient with the gains turned almost to zero it would pump.


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