Secret Weapon-R Intake??
 

Have anyone install the secret weapon-r intake yet??? or the Powerhouse Racing intake??

$$$$$

didn't even know they had a system out

currently from dynos and what we have seen with tuning air intakes arent worth the cash.

There are both around $300...i seen them on carid.com but not sure how many HP gains

Contact @frsguy707 for details and pics of weapon-r intake

He has them on his car since july

Unless Weapon-R has changed things up .. everything I've seen from them is cheapo / eBay junk

Here is version 1 on my car back in june. ( not running it anymore)

http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...47734E7B6F.jpg

And here is versionn 2 on frsguy707's car

http://i1053.photobucket.com/albums/...467F9B06DA.jpg

Version 3 will be out very soon

I wouldn't say cheap/eBay junk the intake I've had on my car is awesome even though its not the final product, I've had zero bogging issues like some of those other intakes. I'm not sure what the power gains are as of right now seeing as they haven't dinoed it but I'm sure its promising.:thumbup:

um that looks terrible.. its in the engine bay.. radiant heat etc..

My FR-S likes cold air better.

no engine prefers warm air to cold air.

Well version 3 will likely be a sealed Enclosure

These were prototypes Way back in june

so maybe i just gonna wait for the version 3 to come out lol....

:sm3:

:laughabove::laughabove::laughabove:

Physics must have gone on vacation.

Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk 2

:lol::lol::lol:

I agree... :iono::iono:

The biggest advantage a cold-air intake has over a short-ram intake is that it allows the motor to pull in colder air from a location away from the heat of the engine. The temperature of the air under the hood is raised by residual heat from the radiator and cooling system. A cold air intake avoids this by using air from another location, such as the spaces around the wheel wells or inside the front bumper. This increases the power potential of the intake charge. The reason for this is simple: cold air is denser than heated air. By using cooler, denser air, a cold air intake is able to add more fuel per-unit-volume of air, and we already know: more fuel mixed with more air equals more power. This is especially important when the car is moving slowly or starting from a stop. When the car isn’t moving, hot air gathers underneath the hood. A short ram intake is forced to use this heated air for the intake charge, which means it loses power. The cold air style intake isn’t affected as much under these conditions. However once the car is moving, the difference in performance between the two is much less noticeable since the temperature under the hood drops considerably.

Now stop posting ridiculous stuff!!!!

It's like an Injen without the filter house.

New product OEM design

http://www.weapon-r.com/images/produ...05-173-109.jpg

Weapon-R :thumbdown: Where did you find this on their site? They screwed me over when they did RnD on my car they used my car to make that lol.

That's actually fairly nice looking. Not typical from what I've seen from them.

A $40 K&N drop in, call it a day.

Damn, they did you dirty bro. Lol.

Not surprising, I've never seen anything positive come from that "company."

yup thats why i sold everything they gave me haha.

Yeah, if you enjoy oil all over the MAF sensor and crap filtration...

I wish people would stop suggesting this, it's not true.

Suggest? It's proven fact and been known for decades. "The world's best air filter" is a trademark, nothing more.

Looks like an uglier arc intake ppl should know better than to trust a company that has the name of an eBay company

My MAF has no oil on it, had the K&N on my car for over 18 months. It can happen, but saying that's what happens any time you install a K&N filter is rubbish.

Sounds like some people don't understand how to recharge their k&n. I agree with kodename. I've ran k&n filters on every car I've owned and never had oil on anything.

This looks as if it goes up to the hood support beam and uses the snorkel unlike the ARC which pulls air right from the engine bay. I could be wrong however.

The amount of times I've heard this from people that insist that it's NOT the K&N and NOT their MAF sensor that is causing their issues is hilarious.


It's even better when they finally bring me their MAF for a core charge and I wipe the inside with toilet paper (rice paper works better as it's made to wick oil) and it comes up oily.


But whatever, enjoy your high silicates (because it's a crap filter) and your dead MAFs...

Funny, I'm one of those guys who has run a K&N filter in all of my vehicles. My 93 mustang had 193,000 miles on in when I put a new motor in it. The stock motor was still running fine, just put a built motor in it. When I tore the old motor down, you could still see the crosshatch in the cylinders, and besides the bearings being worn the motor was in great shape. Nothing to indicate a lot of particulates passing. My 99 Superduty currently has 247,000 miles on it, still going strong. Both of these vehicles had K&N filters in since day one, and I live down a 3/4 mile gravel driveway also. So say what you want about K&N filters, I know they work...

Nothing lie a positive person ay!?

I didn't say it couldn't happen but my MAF is fine, checked twice in 12 months... No oil. Just ensure the filter isn't over oiled, it's not that hard. As for filtration, you could argue the case against most aftermarket filters TBH. There's horror stories about most types if you look about. In fact if you want the best filtration, just stick with the OEM filter type.

So defensive....

Shame is, I've never had a dead MAF before. Not even on my mud truck that spent it's whole life buried to the doors. Motor still runs fine, MAF still reads perfect.

As I said, you can't blame a product due to user error.