Clutch..
 

I'm eyeballing a few supercharger/turbo options, Exhaust, Tune, which would put me around 300 HP, +/- 25HP.

This will put me in a position to require a upgraded clutch... What are the better options for clutch on Boxer's, and other then being able to handle the more power what do these performance clutches feel like when compared to a stock..

As far as i have seen, there is a "ONE-OFF" Exedy clutch that AP is using. And there are several stages of the Clutch Masters. The more clamping force, the more TQ it will hold and with that, it means faster and harder engagement.

I had the same question, once I settle on a FI solution. (IE after SEMA)

fx300/400?

Personally I like Spec clutches.

Why? (genuinely asking)

Sent from my HTC One X

I had one put in my GSX and it worked really well. It had a good feel and engagement. I also put and ACT street disc setup in my EVO. It was harder to shift and work than stock. Of the two brands I like the Spec better.

Emailed Across/carbonetic. they should have a carbon blade clutch out for sale in the new year. email said it should be able to hold about 300-350lb/ft using their pressure plate. but thats all i got from them.

here is to hoping that ACT has a Pro-Lite Flywheel at SEMA. 9lbs would be about perfect on this car i think.

Damn, someone definately needs to send them links and dyno vids/sheets of all these turbo/sc kits making more than that and still pushing on stock internals...... Cereal guys....

rememeber thats just the blade. they didn't give me anything when i asked about a twin-plate. so i'm betting its in the works.

or just a full on race spec. Something that can handle over 500wtq... then we would all be safe with one of those

:word:

As far as staged kits, you also need to look at sprung or unsprung. Sprung clutches will generally have a similar pedal feel as far as softness/stiffness goes, although engagement may still be harsh/soft depending on which stage you go with. I had a spec stage 3, 6-puck sprung clutch in my 240 and the pedal felt soft, almost like an OEM clutch, however the engagement was incredibly harsh. No room to ride the clutch at all, it was either in or out, no in between.

My very first manual car that I bought/drove (literally learned to drive it on the test drive) had a brand new stage 3 6 pluck TRD clutch in it from japan (confirmed this when i pulled the engine 3 months later)

I personally thought the all car's clutches were like this, drove a friend's car with a stock clutch, hated it. Had to lift my foot 5-6 inches before any real engagement vs my 1/2 inch engagement on my car.

An aggressive aftermarket clutch actually is easier in traffic mainly because you aren't moving your left foot to make the car move, all i had to do was move my toe up and down to move forward in traffic...

to each's own, I love aggressive clutches that have linear engagement, but i guess its because racecar is in my blood...

sorry for the rant but i HATE stock clutch engagement, feel, softness, ect

personally if it were up to me, wait for a TRD clutch pay the premium and enjoy a very tough clutch, that has linear engagement, that will hold 300whp, if you need more bite buy the grey TRD version from japan, if you need more than that, get a clutch made for 800whp to hold your 400whp+ set up yeah it may be expensive but it wont blow up on you and it will last a LONG time plus blown clutches can ruin a bell housing and you may need to replace it in the end as well as a new pressure plate that cant be resurfaced


a 9 lb flywhell may be great on the track but if you arent used to it i wouldnt get it for DD use, i went form a stock 12lb flywheel to a 10lb then to a 7.8lb flywheel on my celica, i knew i would have hated myself if i went straight to the 7.8lb flywheel first instead of graduating

i come from a Honda s2000 with an 8.8lb ACT flywheel. does make it easier to stall but i'm used to it after a couple years of lightfly fun. and i did the same thing from stock to 13lb to 8.8 made the transition easier thats for sure :thumbup:

A lightweight flywheel makes it HARDER to stall? I thought it would stall easier... Never did flywheel

Easier.....for sure.

oops good catch guys! fixed :happy0180:

I had a Spec clutch in my super sentra. It was great, smooth and quiet engagement. They rated it for 450tq but it held around 380wtq before wanting to slip if hot. Overall, best clutch I've ever had. I did have a sintered iron solid hub before it, it was extremely harsh but held 430wtq.

I just ordered the Clutchmasters FX400. I was originally going to go with the FX300 but its only rated up to 350ish ft/lbs of torque. That should be suitable for most of my driving but I do also plan on running this car with just about that much torque so I figured I'd go for tge 400 which is rated up to 500ft/lbs just to be safe. It will be a while before I install it though, since I need to find an Ecutek tuner in the Phoenix area so I can get my P&L system tuned for E85. Wish I could fly Visconti out here to do it, but I'm not that rich :)

Are you going to be installing it yourself? It should would be nice to get some pictures for a DIY article as most of us soon to be forced induction owners are going to need to put a clutch in.

Yeah I'm installing it myself, I am trying to do all of the installations on my car so I know how everything goes together, so I can fix it if it breaks. Just did my KW's which was pretty easy once I figured out what to take off and what to leave on so I figure the clutch will be a handfull the first time I do it but once Ive done it one time any other times should be smooth! I'll try to do a how to when I install it but I wont wont make any promises, as I usually start something and forget to document it etc.

Same here man. Once I get on a roll, I find it hard to stop and take photos of the process. I do all my work on my cars and have done a clutch install on a Miata and my SpecE30 previously.

I have an FX400 Clutch/Flywheel kit for sale in the FS section of this forum for someone interested..Looking to get rid of it ASAP.

i am going to be running the act street disc, heavy duty pressure plate. and streetlite flywheel after sema.... parts are in at the shop, just didnt have enough time to install it and finish body work in time.

ACT is rad... ive blown through 3 transmissions on my 240 and it still is holding up lol.

They make great stuff thats for sure. i'm waiting till a Pro-lite comes out though and i'll probably go with carbonetic's Blade clutch as it offers reduced inertia and slightly less weight.

Just out of curiosity, what will the stock clutch/pressure plate RELIABLY hold?

-Rich H.

i believe it started to slip at 280whp, i read that in one of the turbo build threads. so 240whp should be fine.

I believe its more of what the torque capability is. I think the wtq was around 280. it was mroe hp than that though.

That could be totally true. I could had gotten it mixed up for sure.

Its cool, i think they were well over 300whp and as far as ive seen, usually they are making about 100hp more than tq. But, i could be wrong. Just sayn

All good news. . ~20% more HP/torque will make this car nearly perfect if the increase in weight and the balance is kept is minimal.

I know, I know. . "but I want 350hp". . Go buy a mustang. :)

-Rich H.

ACT HD-SS ALL DAY!!!!!!!!!!!

250 hp is enough just strip the car your good

My plan is to have two maps for the FRS one for 91 octane crap that is generally available everywhere and another E85 tune for when i want to hunt Corvettes and Porsches. The P&L turbo kit with my P&L full exhaust should be good for about 250-280HP on 91 and 440+ on E85.

440+ on E85 with New injectors and Fuel pump, and a dozen other supporting mods? OR ARE YOU JUST FREE BALLING IT? If so... You sir are a brave soul.

New 700cc injectors, new fuel pump, and Ecutek tuning. Thats it for now, Im waiting on companies to start releasing low compression pistons and stronger con rods so I can get more power from gas so I dont have to rely on corn juice.