DIY - Stainless Steel Lines - Speed Bleeders - Fluid Bleed/Flush
 

Back again. This time we are covering:

+Stoptech Stainless Steel Brake Line Kit (Thanks Jeremy/Yo @FT-86 SpeedFactory)
+Motul RBF 600 (Thanks Adam @No Limit Motorsport)
+Speed Bleeders

Thanks @cobrabyte for helping me install this and being the hand model. Lol for shameless @Racecomp Engineering displays in all my photos

I'll break it out into Rear, Front, then Flush

Overall feedback
+The StopTech lines do not give or flex during brake actuation. The OEM lines are very flexible (4000mi). This should improve brake response times, since you don't have to exert energy to overcome the flex. I do notice the brakes bite sooner.
+The StopTech rear lines do not have the L bend at the caliper connection like the OEM lines. It still fits and works great but not 100% like OEM.
+I have not driven the car hard enough to see the benefit of the high temp fluid.
+I only used 1L of fluid to do the line change and flush. I had 3L on hand just in case.
+Speed bleeder valves work like a champ. At first they seemed gimmicky, but they do what they say. @cobrabyte and I are now believers. Crack open the bleeder and just pump the brakes. Each pump pushes a spring loaded ball bearing out of the way to let fluid out. Then closes on the pedal return preventing air from coming in. You don't need two people anymore or special vacuums to bleed or flush brakes. I might bleed my brakes on each oil change. I hate air in my lines.
+The last bit of flex in the braking system is in the master cylinder. Please hurry @GrimmSpeed. I want your brace
+I strongly urge you to have more fluid than you need and have all the tools ready especially if you are doing this alone and this is your only vehicle


If you are not using speed bleeders, ignore all the references to them. I only cover the traditional and speed bleeder methods of bleeding and flushing fluid.

You'll need to raise the car. A lift makes this 100x easier, but if you use stands, please lift the entire car onto stands to keep it level. Refer to @GrimmSpeed DIY here http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10111

As always I am not responsible for damage done to your vehicle. Be safe

Rear Brakes
 

Rear Brakes

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8473/8...63a3633e_c.jpg
20121019-RearBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-01 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Service Manual Diagrams
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8196/8...ba734723_c.jpg
20121019-RearBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-02 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8466/8...4b4302f2_c.jpg
20121019-RearBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-03 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8045/8...f3942497_c.jpg
20121019-RearBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-04 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8324/8...22457eac_c.jpg
20121019-RearBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-05 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8187/8...9b5700b7_c.jpg
20121019-RearBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-06 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8335/8...7473135e_c.jpg
20121019-RearBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-07 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8332/8...9b0ba8f7_c.jpg
20121019-RearBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-08 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8193/8...48e270ae_c.jpg
20121019-RearBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-09 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8327/8...6a2d5d5c_c.jpg
20121019-RearBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-10 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8184/8...1bdbc467_c.jpg
20121019-RearBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-11 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8472/8...c165f044_c.jpg
20121019-RearBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-12 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8473/8...3910f6f2_c.jpg
20121019-RearBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-13 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8476/8...ed03960d_c.jpg
20121019-RearBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-14 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8043/8...78f32b7d_c.jpg
20121019-RearBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-15 by VictorN07, on Flickr

In pictures 16 and 17, notice that the OEM line has an L bend at this end of the line. The next image shows the specified StopTech Kit line, where that is straight.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8049/8...87f94e39_c.jpg
20121019-RearBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-16 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8469/8...3027833c_c.jpg
20121019-RearBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-17 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Correction, do not wash everything with brake fluid. Fluid, Fluid everywhere! Thanks @cobrabyte
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8054/8...62205329_c.jpg
20121019-RearBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-18 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8470/8...baa59640_c.jpg
20121019-RearBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-19 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8048/8...95c4845c_c.jpg
20121019-RearBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-20 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8336/8...fb7ef255_c.jpg
20121019-RearBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-21 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Front Brakes
 

Front Brakes


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8336/8...fcb74758_c.jpg
20121019-FrontBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-01 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Service Manual Diagrams
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8323/8...e603ba8b_c.jpg
20121019-FrontBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-02 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8055/8...5dcb4566_c.jpg
20121019-FrontBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-03 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8050/8...437cfd15_c.jpg
20121019-FrontBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-04 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8469/8...ce5dc2e1_c.jpg
20121019-FrontBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-05 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8328/8...48313291_c.jpg
20121019-FrontBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-06 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8188/8...5425c09b_c.jpg
20121019-FrontBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-07 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8335/8...0915c18d_c.jpg
20121019-FrontBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-08 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8473/8...b2c8f59f_c.jpg
20121019-FrontBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-09 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8330/8...b6285d20_c.jpg
20121019-FrontBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-10 by VictorN07, on Flickr

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8047/8...1a4ce288_c.jpg
20121019-FrontBrake_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-11 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Brake Flush
 

Brake Flush

There are many ways to do the flush. There are probably a thousand guides and videos to do this. If you need more clarification, please search. I am not responsible for any damage done to you or you vehicle. Please remember to keep brake fluid off your paint.

It is my preference to do things without having to buy tools I'll use once or twice so I will describe how to flush your fluid...

+ The traditional method (2 player coop)
+ Speed Bleeder method (single player)

Keep in mind a flush is like doing a bleed x100 (described above). The bleed is just to get air out of the lines, so you'll end up replacing a little bit of fluid. The point of the flush is to replace all of the fluids.


Tools
+ 10mm box wrench (for OEM) -or- 11mm box wrench (for speed bleeder)
+ clear hose
+ water bottle for catch bottle
+ rags
+ gloves
+ jacks + stands
+ Brake Fluid. I think 1L is enough, but have more than you think you need. I had 3L just in case.


Setup
1) You'll need to raise the car. A lift makes this 100x easier, but if you use stands, please lift the entire car onto stands to keep it level. Refer to @GrimmSpeed DIY here http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10111
2) The order you need to flush the fluid out of the system is dictated by distance from the wheel to the master cylinder. Go from furthest to closest.

In a left hand drive vehicle this will be rear right, rear left, front right, front left.
In a right hand drive vehicle this will be rear left, rear right, front left, front right.

I am in the US, so I'll start with the rear right.

3) Open the hood and open the brake reservoir cap. place the cap back on but don't twist it shut.
4) Find the bleeder valve. Remove the dust cover. Place the box wrench on the bleeder valve. Attach the hose to the bleeder, then insert the other end of the hose into your catch bottle. For the rear, the setup looks like this.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8192/8...e264c48c_c.jpg
20121019-Flush_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-19 by VictorN07, on Flickr

Didn't get a picture of the front, but this will show you where the bleeder valve is (black nub). It will be on top of the caliper facing the front.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8468/8...6c4f2645_c.jpg
20121019-Flush_StopTech_Motul_SpeedBleeder-09 by VictorN07, on Flickr



Speed Bleeder Method (Single Player)
1) Loosen/Open the valve by 1/4 or 1/2 turn.
2) Hop in the car. Pump the brakes slowly. Like the traditional method, you will feel the fluid being pushed out of the system. Press down like halfway and let all the way up. Just keep pumping. Do not bottom out the pedal (push it all the way down). That may cause a rupture in your brake master cylinder.
3) Every ten or so pumps, get out of the car, and check the reservoir fluid level. If its gets to the low marking, just refill with new fluid. Do not let fluid completely drain out of the reservoir, if this happens you have to start over.
4) Also check the fluid in the hose. When you can clearly see a change in color, this tells you new fluid has reached the caliper. On a new car this may be hard to detect.
5) When new fluid has been pushed out to the wheel, close the valve and remove the hose. Move on to the next wheel. Repeat until finished.


Speed bleeders have a spring loaded ball bearing that opens and closes when you press and release the brake respectively. This prevents air from reentering the caliper when you let go of the brake pedal.



Traditional Method (Two Player)
1) Player 1 will Loosen/Open the valve by 1/4 or 1/2 turn. Tell player 2 to pump.
2) Player 2 will be in the car actuating the brakes. Pump the brakes three times, on the third time hold. Tell Player 1 to close. Like the method above, do not bottom out the brake pedal or you'll have a bad day.
3) Player 1 will close the valve while Player 2 holds. After it is closed, tell Player 2 to let go.
4) Now repeat this procedure until clean fluid can be seen in the hose. This may be hard to see in a new car. Please monitor your fluid levels in the reservoir. Move on to the next wheel.

The only thing keeping you from doing the traditional method by yourself is that pedal hold. If you don't close the valve during the hold, then you'll just let air into the system when you go to check your fluid levels and when you finish.

Wow great right up!

Not to discourage others but this has to be the greatest, most complete write up I've ever seen. The community thanks you.

the pictures really help thanks for the great write up

Nice write-up. Definitely in my car's future.

Very very well done! And nice springs. ;)

- Andrew

This is one of the best write ups with the clearest pictures I have ever seen. It took a lot of work to do that for us. Thank you!!! :thumbup:

Even though these pics slow the process down a little, they're a huge help to the community. I wish more DIYers took the time to snap some pics. Oh, and those speed-bleeders are BOSS. They sounded gimmicky but they are totally as-advertised.

Fantastic thread.
A great addition to the DIY KB

Bang on! Awesome write up! Will definitely be using it this winter.

Damn!! Another good DIY write up by @F1point4!!! Your photos and instructions are clear and concise!!
This came just in time too! Gotta change my fluids over to Motul 5.1 next week.

Thanks F1point4. Love your DIY series. Whats next?

I have a few things in the queue. I will give a hint that its all about suspension.

Great write up!

All I can say to people who do there own brake work:

Buy the flare wrench. You will be glad you did when it saves your brake lines from stripped "bolt" heads etc.

It will be one of the better $10 to $20 you will spend! :happy0180:

+1 to this, if you strip the nut on the hard line because you didn't use a flare wrench, you'll have a bad day.

Very nice write-up! I've just purchased my speed bleeders (used to have them on my bike) and they just make it so much easier, specially for cars. I'm planning on upgrading the brake fluid, and maybe better pads and swapping in SS brake lines, for my first HPDE.

I :lol:

One tip I have when doing a flush is using a turkey baster to pull out most of the old fluid from the master cylinder, then refilling it with new (just a general tip, not sure if it will work for our cars, since I'm yet to look in there). You can then just keep an eye for the color change as you're bleeding, refilling as needed. As you've stated though, this might be a little difficult when doing a flush with a new car (newish fluid).

Also, may I request adding brake pad replacement and bedding? That would just make this Brake DIY so complete!

I like to use ATE Super Blue when flushing the brake system because it's easy to see the new fluid (it's blue).

They also sell an amber variety for when you're going to flush the blue stuff. Just look for the color change.

How did you properly torque the 10mm hardline nut?

Also, I noticed I overtorqued a couple banjo bolts. Should I just leave it as is or retighten them even tho they use crush washers?

For that we just did it by feel. I always have a policy that the owner should torque any non torque wrench able bolts to their satisfaction.

The service manual says 11 ft lbs so that's barely more than hand tight!


Id leave the banjo as is.

The Turkey baster extraction is spot on, I just lost enough fluid changing my lines I didn't need to extract.



Ill gladly do pad+rotor change DIY when someone on our team wants to do their pads....or when someone is generous to send me new pads *wink wink

Great write up on this

I love how far into the twins we are here in Texas. Doing literally everything to our cars. Houston especially.

Just did pads, rotors, stainless lines, and a blue fluid flush on a R56 Mini Cooper S. my goodness ze Germans make things complicated. For those who care:

Main differences
+ Torx T50 to hold on the rotors - who has that socket. Ours just fall off
+ Soft Lines screw into the caliper and don't have a free turning connection. You have to twist the entire line to undo it. Thank goodness for the German's banjo bolt
+ Im mad at the stainless lines he bought. It wasn't a vendor I ever heard of...the rubber grommets that hold the line to the suspension weren't aligned and required the force of two titans to slide to the correct position.
+ blue Bremsflüssigkeit is awesome. Easy to see when new fluid has reached the caliper!

In my pregame, I notice there weren't many complete DIYs. I won't let this happen to our community

Awesome write up.

Please please, find torque values for the work you do to your cars. The owner did this to his Mini yesterday

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8336/8...d8449f91_c.jpg
20121027-ChantaR56BrakeSetback-01 by VictorN07, on Flickr


We didn't find good documentation for the rear brakes. Since the procedure was similar as the front, we assumed the torque values are the same as the front brakes. 81 ft lb was too much for the rear caliper bracket bolt. We found a replacement at Lowes to hold him over until the Mini bolt ($12) can be ordered in next Tuesday
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8466/8...b87965b7_c.jpg
20121027-ChantaR56BrakeSetback-02 by VictorN07, on Flickr


Thank goodness it didn't break inside the hub. It snapped after we removed it.

FWIW I had speed bleeders on my WRX. They're nice, but become useless if you use a pressured bleeder like the Motive tool. The tool pressurizes (positive, not vacuum) the brake system and pushes fresh fluid through so all you have to do is crack the bleeders open; they won't ingest air since the circuit's are pressurized. Just another way of doing a one-man brake job that I thought I'd share.

Hey mate, what is the part number for the front and rear speed bleeders for this car?

Would appreciate the info as i want to get myself a set.

SB1010-SS for front and rear.

Fits like a charm.

I am 95% sure this same speed bleeder will work for the clutch too

There are two lengths offered - 31.35 and 34.44. Which length did you use or does it not matter?

Thank you for all of your great DIY write ups!

I figured it out - it's the longer threaded version with the part # you gave.
I looked at the part numbers closer and the short 31.35 is SB1010S-SS
My eyes skipped the extra "S" and I thought they both had the same #.:bonk:

looks great.!

To the OP or anyone else using the speed bleeders, any issues thus far? Does it actually make solo bleeding a breeze. I bring this up b/c my local track enthusiasts shop are adamant that years of trying to work with speed bleeders have failed, just ending up using the OEM bleeders and a 2 man crew. Something about letting air in as it closes.

SS lines are in route and picked a pump that will feed/keep the reservoir under pressure.

Thanks for this write up. It helped. Flare wrench helped since standard wrench rounds the nut if it's on too tight. Thanks for lookout :)

rounded every the nut every time i tried using standard wrenches. gave up and used pliers.

That's right :). Warning, flare wrench grips - standard wrench rounds. Have PB blaster handy - brake cleaner evaps too fast sometimes.

Nice write up.

Spent a few hours at the track last week with my stock 86. Got settled, then into an aggressive groove. I found the brake feel /performance the most noticeable "low performance" part of the ride.

The SS lines is a great idea, mine are on order. :)

When I first purchased speed bleeders about a decade ago, they warned not to over-tighten them because they are hollow and could break. Having half a bleeder stuck in the caliper would suck.

Also, I'm wondering where the warning to not pump the brake pedal all the way for fear of rupturing the master cylinder comes from. Any source for this?

It's a valid concern, but I'm not sure if it applies to this car. Typically, the brake pedal mechanism/levers/vacuum booster pushes a rod into the back of the master cylinder. So it's possible it may get damaged, but I'd only think it's possible if the rod is smaehed really hard into the MC. Honestly I wouldn't worry about it.