Headers?
 

Anyone know the names of the headers for the FR-S on the market right now? All I can seem to find is an Agency Power header.

I was thinking the same thing. Numerous companies had build threads with pretty damn good gains, and nothing ever came to market. Such a shame.

They will come. The issue is that with headers, most of them are removing the CAT. When you do that, you'll eventually get a CEL light. To take care of that, a tune is required. ECUTek cables are backordered 30-90 days. When all of this gets resolved, you can bet we will see more.

Nameless, Perrin to name two.

Well that wouldn't apply to me. I only want one with a cat. Something they could have easily released by now...unless the only way to make gains was removing the cat. If that's the case, I'm not interested.

The only way to make BIG gains is by removing the cat, but, I'm 100% with you on this.

I would love a tuned equal-length header setup, but I'm NOT screwing with my emissions controls. The last thing I want is inspection headaches.

You can get a 2.5" downpipe + overpipe with a high flow cat from Nameless for $499. Just the one cat should be good enough.

I already have a full SRT header back exhaust.

Have they figured out to make that the cat that is registered so that it will pass? From what I understand, the cat in the header is the one the engine checks for, and will be the one that needs to be present to pass emissions unless you move the O2 sensor.

Both Nameless headers do not throw a CEL, without tuning. :D (2 months with catless header on mine, no CEL)

I swear I thought about you when I wrote it, and I remember some time ago you had stated so. What I posted was more word of mouth from Perrin who said "eventually" it would.

So, ladies and gents, NO CEL with Nameless, I think they have not released becasue they are BUUUUUUUUUSSSSYYYY

Not sure if these throw a CEL, but you may need to install a catless front pipe to make sure. I was reading a thread from Chris @ Perrin and there was a mention about a CEL being thrown if you put a catless header and left a cat on the front pipe.
http://www.agency-power.com/catalog/...2p2ublvi7r41k3

Anyone know when the Nameless Performance header is coming to market?

I need something to go with my Invidia N1 exhaust! :DDDDD

Just so we're clear, there's nothing in the header design that prevents a check engine light. It's a special spacer that's used where the O2 sensor screws in to the pipe.

Several of the shops have noted that the OEM headers (for those wanting to retain in-header cat) are pretty good. It is also my understanding that the header designs are going to fit in factory locations (aka bolt to OEM header-back exhausts) and thus you could buy a header-back exhaust system now and upgrade to headers in the future when a catted header hits the market. You may find that changing from the OEM header isn't in the cards because:
A: aftermarket catted headers don't yield good enough gains to justify cost
or
B: aftermarket catted headers will still require a tune if you don't want a tune you may choose to stay OEM with your headers.

Just a thought.

Me, I would get rid of the factory header with the cat, and go with catless headers and leave a single cat in the downpipe. To pass emissions, you only need 1 cat. You may be able to avoid a CEL by using a spacer on the first o2.

I know the gains aren't going to be as good as full catless, but I don't want to deal with it emissions wise, but I do want to remove the factory header/cat because cats right close to the head/exhaust valves have a tendency to bring combustion chamber temps up.

I want to get the cat a couple feet down stream, preferably. It pulls chamber temps down just a little bit, and makes the header generally work better.

Couldn't you get the catless header, and then a down pipe or over pipe with a high flow cat?

PPE is working on a longtube catless header. ETA November.

http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...89639605_n.jpg

That's what I will do, but then again there's no inspections in FL.

The other concern I have is that the OEM header has the all the necessary heat shielding on it so it doesn't overburden the cyl head and other various sensors with heat.

I don't see any after market headers with any type of heat shielding. I would pay extra for that.

Do you hear that manufacturers: "I would pay extra for that". Just sayin'

AutoFactory Japan Pictures and Video Here

http://i584.photobucket.com/albums/s...fauto3/af3.jpg
http://autofactory.jp/product/img/6_2.jpg
http://autofactory.jp/product/img/6_3.jpg

Trust/GReddy in Japan is working on a header with O2 sensor bung and apparently stock heat shield bolt-on-ability. Targeted completion in October. Here are a few prototypes...

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphot...98317768_n.jpg

hahahhaha not to hate, but damn im glad that i don't have to worry about emissions... lol sorry bro, if you want gains, you gona have to go catless and tune.

Could always wrap it.

This you can do yourself if you are interested. You can use something like thermotec heat wrap or you could get your header/exhaust heat coated (lots of options) if you want to spend the money. OEM heat shielding will work best, but thermotec works really good too. Coating works least best IMHO, but still definitely makes a difference (how much depends on which heat coat you choose to use).

Thermo wrap is flame resistant, but oil isn't. If you have a thermo wrap exposed to an oil leak and flame is present the end result is much like a candle wick. In a street application I understand I'm not at great risk in this regard.

yea but you are one out of 100 who wants to spend 900+ on a header.
heat shielding isn't really necessary.
yes, it would be great to keep the heat retained.

and as stated, wrapping a header is no good.

I actually stated wrap OR coating. And we have a nice NA engine so you can also coat the interior as well as exterior of your exhaust piping if you are afraid of heat (wouldn't do that on a turbo motor header) for additonal heat retardant.

Somebody says thermotec is bad in a forum so it's gospel. Sorry I disagree. It's actaully better than the stock heat shield. Do a taste test. Touch your heat shield after running the car hard. Touch a properly wrapped/sprayed exhaust pipe.

I've heard of a couple people having car fires and blaming header wrap.

If you had a fire in your car it wasn't soley due to header wrap. If you have an oil leak, or any leak of fluid that is flammable and flame hits that fluid or temperatures rise high enough to ignite that fluid, it eventually is going to burn and start your car on fire, regardless of if you have heat wrap. If you modify your car, you should be checking it. Leaks typically "leak" over long periods of time and it takes alot of fluid to burn your car down. Check your car. leaking fluid typically stinks and also typically emits small smoke (besides just stinking). Most of the time there are signs a car will burn long, long before it starts on fire. And, if you spilled a flammable liquid in your engine compartment and didn't clean it up (I know, it sounds too dumb to imagine, but TONS of people spill small or large amounts of oil in their engine compartment every time they change their oil) and your car starts on fire... Not sure I can fault a wrap or coating for that.

Last and most important, if you are paranoid about your modified car burning down (regardless of if you have your header wrapped or not) carry a fire extinguisher. They are relatively cheap peace of mind. And you can buy kits to bolt them into your car within easy reach or can be kept in the trunk.



EDIT - I've run wrap on two headers on previous cars. I've also run coating on two other headers. Never had a problem. Had lots of fun leaks too. Never had any fires. The one time I had some oil leak on a wrapped header:

• A - I knew it happened because I monitor and maintain my car
• B - I just doused that part of the header again with the protective spray - done, no problem

+1 for no emissions testing!

My opinion is that to get power you need at least to remove the 1st cat.
You can keep the 2nd and move the sensor after that, or even better replace it with a good metallic one, and stay withing regulations in most countries.
Also, I would remove the restrictions of the stock flanges when possible!

About wrapping, I consider it not necessary on this kind of cars, and even dangerous as any leak could transform in flames. Also it's hard to spot leaks or cracks, and you overheat the headers.
Ceramic coating is a better option, or just leave them as they are, once you remove the 1st cat most of the heat is diffused out of the engine bay, out of the plastic covers.

Any update for this?
Thanks.

No idea.