Sourcing for filter?
 

Well, in another topic I see someone posted "Subaru 15208AA170" as a 2nd-gen oil filter. Hopefully that holds true and I figure on doing the 1000-mile oil change in a few weeks.

I see Amazon has that part # at $12.99 but I thought to ask is (a) there's a dealer or OEM parts seller that supports the forum and we should support them, or (b) someone with a killer price. (I have no objection to buying several filters at one time, like in a bulk pack within reason).

i don't know of any forum affiliates at this time.

my last filter order, i did through ebay. that allowed me to do a 3 pack for a slight discount.

I usually just go to the local dealer parts counter.



Amazon is usually marked up for commodities like that (convenience and shipping factor)

Dealers will usually offer a buy x get x 'free' deal. Last time I went to my local dealer I got a case of them for relatively cheap.

OK, I'll just hit the dealer, then. Thus I'll have via them a firm handle on the correct part number. I went and looked under the hood yesterday, the filter is installed in a such a way that I cannot see the part number on the case but, interestingly, the filter has a brand name on it other than Subaru.

The part number you have is correct for the second gen. It's made by Tokyo Roki.

Subaru doesn't make oil filters.

You got a Walmart around there?

That's certainly the name on the filter.

Yes, but I'd have to be well paid to go in there.

Here in Canada, parts for my 2016 FRS are 50% more expensive for the same part from Subaru than at a local Toyota dealer.
Your only shopping challenge may be that the Toyota parts counter will first ask for your VIN to search. Your BRZ VIN won’t work for them. A visit or online Toyota vendor may be advantageous. Go to sparksparts.com to search your corresponding 86 part number and order with confidence. Don’t forget the crush washers.
Cheers!

Thanks for the reminder about crush washers.

or you can get a fumoto valve, and never need to deal with the crush washer again!

It varies dealer to dealer. Some Toyota dealers mark up, some Subaru dealers do.

But in the end Toyota filters aren't by Tokyo Roki so I just find the cheapest Subaru one I can online and do that

Wonder if it drains completely

no motor ever drains completely.

that's why it's important to warm up the motor, and get the particulates to be held in suspension so they come out as soon as possible.

No. This much oil is left in the pan after draining then removing the Fumoto.

Fucking Christ, thats like 2 quarts. Imagine that amount + oil cooler

Well, back from the dealer, paid $9.58 for the filter and $1.67 for the washer (listed as "gasket" on the invoice? OK...) Hmm, while the one on the car had the Roki name, the new one does not and says "Genuine Subaru". Go figure.

Absolutely. Need to look up jacking disciplines or I could simply drive up on ramps.

The Honda S2000 we just sold was the first car where there was a big deal over tightening the filter to a torque spec instead of "yeah, that feels pretty tight". So, on the BRZ, I need to revisit that? Which of course means I need a filter wrench that the torque wrench plugs to.

Hey, at least I won't be back on the forum asking "hey, where is the oil filter on this car?" :lol:

Care to post up a picture of it? I'm curious.

Maybe a pint. The container is a Hillshire Farms lunchmeat container. I don't remember if it was oven roasted turkey or honey ham. It's not very big. Some folks commented that they cut the threaded end of the valve, so it did not protrude into the pan.

i don't know that there's any torque spec listed. i always just hand-tighten it.

though as with any oil filter, they're always difficult to get off.

i highly recommend the motivx filter wrench adapter. so much nicer than the flimsy stamped steel pieces.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JRNWYR2...v_ov_lig_dp_it

this funnel kit is also on my to-get list.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09X23RHL9...v_ov_lig_dp_it
i got a motivx complete kit for my tacoma(raw filter in an oem housing; kit included filter drain tube, filter housing wrench, and funnel) that includes those 2 things, and it makes the process even less painless than it was before.

Very well, back to hand-tighten then. Thanks for the links to those tools, both are now bookmarked! :thanks: So far, I'll pass on the Fumoto valve, I am seeing enough web pages on "my Fumoto valve leaks!" and, even if a tiny % of those sold, it's simple enough to use a wrench on the drain plug.

I've had 5 vehicles on fumoto valves(2 on the same valve) with no leaks so far. Only thing I do different is using the factory crush washer instead of the fiber one it came with.

There's plenty of oil left in the pan even with the stock drain, the stamped piece that's welded in to carry the threads is pretty tall.

After draining with the fumoto valve, the engine still takes about 6 quarts. Every time. For 7 years. With no issues.

Thanks, I followed the link and ordered. Now I am halfway through the oil change, and that 74mm unit from the link is too small and will not fit (neither does my Lisle two-jaw adjustable, so I used a strap type wrench); and, yes, I should have measured it myself before ordering. :bonk:. Anyone knows the correct size and/or part # for the correct wrench?

OK, done with the 1000 (actually 1226) mile 1st oil change. A few thoughts:

* 29 ft/lb on the drain plug? Uh, someone at the factory might have set it at something much higher, but I got it off. Interestingly, my torque wrench's lowest setting is 26 ft/lb and I wonder if accuracy is less consistent at that end of the range? Anyway, felt right.

* They say ensure not to double up the crush washer. Looking at the plug, I was not so sure, just a silver line under the threads that might have been paint scraped off. After a couple of minutes with a paring knife -- yup it came off, that was the crush washer.

* My Harbor Freight "race jack" got under there, but could not get the car high enough to set either pair of jack stands in the correct spot. I could get another jack but... don't raise the bridge, lower the river. So, Amazon sent jack stands with a lowest setting of 9.5" (only 2 tons, though). Worked like a charm.

* Wow, 0-20 is really low viscosity compared to, say, straight 40 weight. Just pulling the dipstick out, a few droplets went everywhere. Fortunately had a bottle of spray detailer handy. That said, 0-20 is I guess thick enough, it took a long time draining until the last drip-drip-drip ended (20 minutes?)

* 5.3 quarts did not do it. More like 5.7 quarts. The suggested screw-in funnel works great, I recommend getting one -- the clear window means you can really know when the bottle is more or less empty.

it was likely put on with 29 ft lbs at the factory, but the paint made sure that it wouldn't come off.