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Self-applied Ceramic treatment on new BRZ?
A Search resulted in few -- and old -- topics here on the "ceramic" coatings. Staring at a car with effectively zero miles, this looks like an opportunity to try it, not that I mind waxing (well, I should do it more often...;) )
No way was I paying +/- $1000 for the dealer to apply it. Anyway, who, if anyone has experience and if so, what type and are there BRZ-specific cautions? Otherwise, it's back to Meguiar's Gold Class or whatever the call it these days. |
I used the Adam's kit on my car a few years ago. My car needed a lot of prep being a 13'. I think if I were to do it again on a vehicle I would pay to have it done. Even using the boost spray in the kit it didn't seem to last long compared to a professional job, and my car has spent about half that time parked inside. It was also a PITA to get tape and numbers to stick to my car afterwards too lol.
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Really, it's close to the same process as any other detail job. Clean/prep Correct Then lay down ceramic coat |
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I've been self-applying high-solids coatings (the ones in the little glass bottles) to all of our family vehicles for at least 10 years now. It saves a ton of money and it's really pretty easy. The newer coatings are even easier to apply. I've been a long time user of CarPro's CQuartz UK. Its on several of our family vehicles and it's a good coating. Easy to apply and I get at least three years of good protection from them. It might last longer, but at the two or three year point I'll polish it off and re-coat the vehicle. Recently I've given the new Gyeon coatings a try. My BRZ is wearing Gyeon Pure EVO and my wife's MDX is wearing Gyeon Mohs EVO. Both of those are are easy to apply, but Mohs EVO is by far the easist to apply coating I've ever used. Performance-wise, I've had Pure EVO on my BRZ for a year now and it's still going strong. The Mohs EVO has only been on the MDX for about three months, but I've got no complaints so far. |
Most of the $$ you pay is prep/labor. Paint should be polished to properly clean surface to accept coating. If you don't have gear you'll probably be into it at least $300-400 for material cost.
You will want decent microfiber towels for leveling the coating. Pearl weave work nicely for that, then follow up with a high GSM for final buffing. Clean Chemical and physical decontamination Polish IPA wipe Coat As far as brands Cquartz UK is probably easiest for a first timer. My car has Cquartz UK and a layer of Cquartz SIC on-top. I'll never install just UK ever again after using those together. Recently did this red GR with the same combo https://i.imgur.com/BhHJXdB.jpg |
Thanks and I am not afraid of the labor involved. OK, I might need translations on "GSM" and "IPA wipe" at the least as I do not recognize the acronyms, and what polish did you use.
Anyway, my wife always helps on Car Detailing Days and as it's her car, she'll be enthusiastic... Quote:
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You don't really have to wait for it to flash. Just apply it to an area about 2' x 2' and it will flash by the time you put down the applicator and pick up the buffing towel. Buffing is almost effortlsess and I only needed a single, low nap, MF towel. I didn't have to use two different types like you describe in the removal of CQ UK. It took me almost half the time I spent applying CQ UK to a similar sized vehicle. The icing on the cake is, I think it actually looks better too. OP: Either way you go, a DIY job is not hard. You'll save a lot of money and get to spend some quality time with your car. |
A brand new car still requires a paint correction. Some more substantially than others. I'd never pay the dealer 1000 bucks to do, but I would pay a reputable dealer a lot more than that.
I did Gtechniq Crystal Serum Ultra from day one. Xpel PPF on the front end and mirrors with Gtechniq Halo on top. Maintained with Gtechniq Liquid Crystal C2V3, and Gtechniq Easy Coat. The Gtechniq Ceramic G-Wash is worth the sticker price too. |
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IPA = Isopropyl Alcohol or a paint prep. On the GR86 I used optimum hyper-polish and orange OPT waffle pad. Similarly you can use DIY gold standard polish and gold waffle pad which work near identically. Gold standard has a little longer working time. |
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I've let my business partner apply the coating and tends to get a little heavy handed putting UK on the applicator. :D I've looked at Gyeon coatings as something to possibly introduce as package offerings, heard good things. Might be something to experiment with on my wife's car since I need to clean hers up. |
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Fast forward a few years and with the release of the EVO updates to make the application process better in their main-line coatings I decided to give them a try. Visually and water behavior, I give them the edge over CQUK. Durability is unknown at this point, but my hunch is CQUK lasts longer than Pure EVO, but will likely be a tie with Mohs EVO. The Gyeon coatings do go on a little thicker, so you use more per vehicle. I used about 20ml of Pure EVO on my BRZ and and about 35-ish on our MDZ. With CQUK I'd use about 15 and 25 respectively. Something to keep in mind from a business perspective that I don't worry about as a hobbyist. |
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Reading various posts, I presume I use an electric buffer? I have one of Griot's. |
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Good to know about gyeons stuff. I have a bunch of carpro products on the shelf which I'll probably stick with until I run low and decide whether to make a switch. If you still play with CQUK I would highly recommend trying it with a layer of CQSIC on-top. SIC is more finicky in application but adds a good amount of saturation to the paint. Originally discovered that combination from car care auto craft on YouTube who did a comprehensive overview of SIC when it launched. |
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I did not care for Griot's pricing on so much, still do, but I got this buffer. Then, some time later, dropped it on concrete and broke off the secondary handle - totally my fault. I called Griot's customer service looking for a part # of order a replacement, and she said "nah, just give me your address and I'll send you one". :thumbup: |
I used Nv Evo ceramic coating recently, specifies to only use 1 layer and wipe pretty much immediately. Coated the whole car in probably an hour
Previously I used Cquartz SiC and whilst the finish is good it was horrible to apply. 2-3 coatings per panel, roughly 3 minute flash time, had to do it over 2 days and put me off redoing it for a long time Here’s the result, photo is completely unedited (iPhone auto enhancer turned off) https://yourimageshare.com/ib/UB19Q2C8n1.webp |
Crystal Serum Ultra is a 9 year coating.
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DIY detail coating lineup works pretty well from testing so far. They offer a 3Y, 5Y and 8Y coating. Yvan Lacroix detail company who worked with optimum for years as the brand ambassador. Very similar brand synergy and philosophy to optimum.
3Y is graphene based which is good for water spot resistance. 5Y is sio2/SIN from understanding and is the glossiest in the lineup. Can confirm having done a golf R recently with it. https://i.imgur.com/xvCDEuv.jpeg Quote:
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I don't think I'd even bother with any coating that lasts more than three years.
Will it last that long and still be protecting the paint? Sure. I'll trust the chemists at those companies (or their blender) know what they are doing. The real issue is what the car will look like after all those years. With my daily drivers, I've found three years is about the tipping point where they have seen enough "life" and the environment to need a good polishing, which means removal of whatever is left of the existing coating. In every instance the vehicle looks so much better. |
Ceramic coating is good but not gonna hop in the bandwagon again. After you coat the car, is done. Just maintenance. Would rather use Fusso coat99 every year. I would get bored again if use ceramic again
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