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Launching your FT-86
I've been trying to find out which is the best RPM to launch your FT-86 (FR-S, BRZ, Toyota FT86) from a standing point, I've read a few articles but some go to 5000RPM +/- but they call some wheelspin :iono:, but then claim that once the traction hit you are in the higher RPM range so you compensate the wheelspin from the power of the engine...
I've done a few test myself and so far the best i've found was 3500-4000RPM to minimize the wheelspin with some light feathering. Mine is a manual so i just drop the clutch, a friend of mine as a auto and he wants to launch it too. :burnrubber: Dont know much about the autos... can you drop from Neutral to 1st ? as a jump ? or you have to double pedal it ? (brake and push the REV-up ? Thanks for your time |
I am not FT-86!
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More important matter at hand here:
"You're" != "Your" Auto should not be dropped into drive from neutral while revving. That would be bad for the transmission if the car even allowed it. Break + gas is probably the best option there. Can't help you on the launching MT issue as I haven't found a need to. I'm sure someone else will have some good advice on that. |
AT launch requires a brake stand, but it's tricky due to the fact that some emergency system (blame the unintended acceleration fiasco) restricts the RPM to 2.5k if the brake is depressed. You can get around it, but it takes a little practice.
Basically, depress the brake completely, then let off just a little bit. You should be able to rev the car all the way up at that point. |
No, You're a towel!
https://encrypted-tbn2.google.com/im...uuQisxGKbi9yxd |
sorry i aint a gramma nazi :P LOL just trying to find out the best launch RPM :P lol
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What about it?
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Knowing proper grammar doesn't make one a nazi, it just means they can comprehend proper grammar. |
The reason for launching at 5k is to not bog the motor. Slip the clutch as fast as possible without causing the car to bog or cause wheelspin. Best way i can put it in words.
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Bring it up to about 7000rpm's and slooooowly let out the clutch....
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In summation, if you're going to give someone crap, make sure you don't make an almost as bad mistake while doing it! |
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In terms of launching, it would depend on the surface and the type/temperature of the tires you are running. You want the tires to spin enough that you don't bog down after they stop spinning, but not too much spin that you just sit there making smoke!
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I have no idea how well the stock clutch takes to getting hot, but in my mr2, the best way was to actually start around 3000rpm, let the clutch slip, hold the handbrake up and slowly release brake, clutch and apply accelerator. Managed to get a 1.6ft 60ft time on street tyres which isnt bad for a rwd. (handbrake was to help the turbo spool off the line, and ensure you dont start rolling forward prematurely).
on the 86, i would guess feathering clutch and accel from 4500rpm would prob be your best bet. havent tried it myself yet though.. Im not game to dump the clutch while im on the sticky tyres, I haven't heard how strong/weak the driveline in these are yet. |
WTF - that sounds hard on the clutch.
I do a lot of SCCA Pro Solos, and have launched a variety of cars. Best method generally is to set your revs (say 5,000), and then lift the clutch like you just trod in dog shit. This gets the tires spinning without slipping the clutch. By using enough revs to get the tires spinning, it also takes the shock out of the driveline. |
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I had a heavy brass button clutch on it, it was fine with it :) |
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SCCA rules prevent me from putting a meaty clutch in my race cars, hence my method above! |
Remind me not to buy a used FRS unless I'm tearing it apart & rebuilding it as a dedicated track car. These cars are gonna take a pounding from it's owners.
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I actually did an autocross with a drag start and a 0-60 foot timer in my MT last weekend. Stock everything, including crappy tires, my best 60 foot times were had launching it at 5k. You do get a lot of wheel spin, but if you just ride it out you'll keep the RPMs at 4.5 and up so it really takes off once you get traction again.
Obviously don't just hold it at 5k and dump the clutch though. Rev it a few times and then ease out of the clutch and into the throttle as you pass 4.5k. I'm not really an expert I guess, but it worked really well for me. |
Guys, he's from Quebec.
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The Proper way to launch a car off the line is not one method or science. It depends on the car, and even within the same car, the condition of the clutch, tires, temperatures, and if the focus is on a reaction time RT to flip the start light trigger or to get down the 1/4 (or any distance) fastest without RT inclusion. Asphalt, concrete, painted line, VHT loaded start line, dry, wet, cold, hot, all make a huge difference and requires a different method and approach.
What you as a driver has to know is basically your body to be sensitive to how it launched upon a test or practice start at the location, and to have the ability to "feel" to forces on the suspension, subframe, chassis, body, then into you, your butt, and steering. Also be aware that standing starts are one of the MOST abusive things you can do to your drivetrain. So its not a consideration of if the system is strong or weak, NHRA Funny Cars blow up transmissions and diff also... It is only up to the drivers to know what breaks things and what breaks things less. Eventually things will break with multiple dozens or hundreds of hard launches. :D ProSolo, Drag Racing, Signal Light race, whatever you do. Just experiment, and feel for what's quick. It's one thing to hook up the tire at launch, and another to modulate the power the instant after, and down the straight, or into a corner if this is ProSolo. Easiest and universal thing to be aware for any sports maneuver is to be very aware and well sensitized to what the tire contact patch is doing, and putting down as much force as it can handle without breaking that patch, on the wheel that needs to be doing the holding. In the case of a hard launch, that would be your two rear contact patches. |
wow... just wow...
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I read that brake torquing does a heavy toll on your engine and you shouldn't do it very often
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Its not really bad for your engine. bad for the motor mounts yes. But its the worst for your transmission specifically the torque converter. While power braking the trans fluid in the torque converter gets very hot. If it only gets done for a shot time, every now and then I don't see it being a problem. |
When launching is it better to turn everything off or leave it in sport mode? I drive a MT
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I'm sorry, I couldn't resist.
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