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2015 Fr-s pros and cons.... is it worth it?
Hi all, came over from Toyotanation on recommendation from got-rice. i seen this on my local Craigslist, i know toyotas but not this model, was wondering if there is a quik list of the the pros and cons about this car? just something if i decide to go check this out. i heard that aftermarket mods are desirable because some OEM parts just dont cut it. It has 110k miles and they want $12,900. wanted to see what is said around here .....thanks in advance
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ah... now i see it after i post.. up in the sticky thread about the problems and issues, oh well, sorry for this post , unless there is something specific about the 2015 model year
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clutch usually goes under 100k miles spark plugs are a pita they don't handle tons of boost well, if going FI need to plan build carefully if tracking there can be oiling issues oil can run hot with track/autox if well cared for car is likely fine the transmission isn't the most robust, but if not abused is fine |
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Another question that is semi-related if you can answer; is that 6 spd in the Fr-s the same as the 6 spd that comes with the 3SGE Beams engine? for the last 6 months i've started thinking about putting one of those in my old Corona. the 18RC has never been rebuilt and i wanted a fuel injection to put in her. i know those 3SGE's are a unicorn and they want crazy $$$ for those , especially ones with a 6 spd |
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The tranny is a Toyota TL70 which was based on the Asin AZ6. The TL70 is used only in the FRS/86/BRZ and one model of Lexus (don't remember what it is). The AZ6 is used in some Mazdas and other makes but I don't think any Toyotas. |
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@toyinhawaiiz By 110k miles I needed to get the new updated clutch throw-out bearing,
part that got released in ~2017. Also found that whiteline bushing inserts (positive shift, positive traction kits) were needed on my car as driveline slack made the car sloppy. Also needed a new EPS (steering) coupler not long after. Pretty simple stuff to deal with though. Also had the J02 valve spring recall job done. Something to look at. My car drives very nice long after the recall. Others had engine failure. |
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the strut assy., lower ball joints and CV axles on my wifes mazda. even her friends ask her car questions and then sometimes she confirms with me before answering them. So, i gotta have faith that my knowledge has been passed before i go to the boneyard in the sky :lol:, besides.... the Fr-s is a learning experience for me too...maybe! we'll see how this deal goes thru |
How's your Corona holding up?
My first car was a '65 Corona. I was 16 years old and beat the holy crap out of that car and it kept on running. It wasn't until the third time I ran out of oil that it seized for good. I lived right on the beach at the time so it was rusting apart. How's it doing on the island? As far as the FR-S goes, it has been the most reliable car I have ever owned. And I've owned a lot. |
And let me add.
It's also one of the easiest to work on. |
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Go fer it! :thumbsup: |
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Pros:
-Simple -Easy to work on/repair/build, whatever floats your/her boat. -Great driving chassis -surprisingly good cargo space -cheap consumables -generally reliable for DD with specific exceptions that have already been pointed out Cons: -Only really seats 2 adults unless everyone is small -mechanical known issues/annoyances already mentioned -premium gas -you have to explain what it is to not-car-people |
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The only negative I can think of is, yes it does require premium fuel. |
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Missed the greatest Pro of all.
It doesn't have a timing belt. |
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One internal chain for each left/right cylinder bank.
Look for oil leakage on the front and back of the block, timing cover and heads. Some will have drippage from people who can't hit the fill hole, but that will be a bit more obvious. |
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I have a 13 and am still under 70k. The car spent the first part of it's life in TX. Bought it in 2016. Almost all of the Twins on Oahu have been used and abused despite what the owner says. (If they are under 30) |
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https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=98730 |
hi all.... i'm back!
thanks for all the guidance about the pros and cons. this past fews months of searching ended up in a race to buy the best one at the best price. the few i saw and replied to ended up by getting sold quik. BUT! i finally got one! well, changing $$$ and title tomorrow. 2014 BRZ Limited,55,000 miles. heres the cons first: from a back and forth text last night with the owner (Late 40's/early fifties lady) said it had a light accident ,driver side fender, today i saw it, also included partial damage of the strut tower. I know this can be tricky and hope i did my due diligence. repair and alignment was done 2 yrs ago by an ok garage chain here on Oahu. without knowing the full damage from the texting, i took my car ramps anyway. got up underneath and checked it out. seemed the damage to the tower was on the fender side. both side of the front of the frame and inner fenderwell looked good. No rust,buckleing,etc. the twin electric fans all seems align and where they are suppose to be. there is a small crack about 2" on the back-inner half of the metal fenderwell(facing the cabin). it drove straight and true though, other things was the washer fluid pump she claims doesnt work> IDK...no fluid damage,etc. she said its on the same side. front cap has been replaced/or just taken off and reinstalled, it doesnt line up with both fenders (just slightly). the whole car has been repainted. i noted the over spray on the window rubbers. i payed attention to the alignment of like the headlights mounted to the radiator support, strut bolts. strut assy., etc. all look pretty fair to good. Interior needs a cleaning. doesnt seem to be any oil leaking except where it looks like the missed the filler cap. Over all i would give it a 7/10. she was asking $11,500, agreed to $10,500. Any other recommendations before i i make this transaction? Oh, she claims it has a clean title, no salvage or rebuilt. the accident happened before she got it which was 2 years and 9,000 mile ago. she claims it ran perfect. thanks for all the help |
I wonder why the whole car was repainted. With today's technology, spot touch ups can be perfectly matched without painting the whole car.
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not sure either. original paint doesnt last that long here in Hawaii without being garaged. painted wifes 2009, 4 yrs ago and my 2003 tacoma got its roof and hood painted about 5 yrs ago, but its in dire need of a fullpaint job
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i would seriously consider having the car inspected by a trusted repair shop to make sure the damage was properly corrected and won't be an issue down the road.
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well, i made the buy! i followed my daughter home last night and was able to follow her in the lane to the right, directly behind her and in the lane to the left of her. seems to roll down the road straight and not like a dog. i brought the owners manual/service manual with me to work so i'll be thumbing thru that to get familiar. Today when i get home i will be jacking it up w/ all 4 wheels up in the air and take a better look see underneath, go through the engine, etc. i will start off by noting to see if all the fasteners are where they are suppose to be, checking alignment/ damage(if any)/comparing the left and right side of the chassis, panels for fit and alignment. will be changing out all fluids this weekend. basically, will be going through the whole car. in the next week or so i'll take it to this alignment place i go to to have the guy check it out and give me his assessment. so for this damaged fender as well as the strut tower, i'll be removing the plastic fenderwell to get a better look at that too. i have all the paper work showing the repair work, so i'll be gong thru that, and honestly the repair that was done on the strut tower is....well, i'll send pics later. this local chain repair place that did it, not sure if i can call out Lex Br#$%&* on here,but, i would take my dog house to them for repair...and i dont even have a dog. i have a few questions if someone can help.
1)Can some one take a pic (a down shot) of their radiator support area to include the headlight attachments...... seems to me a plastic bracket w/hole doesnt line up with the support hole (but another one does) and the end tab/bracket (@ fender) looks out of place. 2) For the A/C... the dual A/C seems to be blowing cool only on the drivers side while the pass. side blows hot. the owner said she search it and said that it was a "blender door actuator" tab/bracket,etc.?? that was broke. i guess this is common?....... Can i get some guidance on this? Thanks for all the help |
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Location is just a joke. |
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