Wont go into gear
 

Installed new transmission and clutch itll go into gear with vehicle off but not with the vehicle on i have no leaks good resistance from the pressure plate and clutch pedal what are ways i can test theories


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What's the clutch? ACT?

Comp twin disc


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means something isn't set up right and the clutch isn't disengaging entirely.

Tried this?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=54RrACeyjCA

Would i hear any grinding or chatter from the trans if i didnt set it properly? Im asking because i dont have any noise but i did the ole start in first gear with clutch applied but its as if the pressure plate is done or my adjustment could be off. I have a comp twin disk and tilton hydraulic release bearing everything is new. I forgot to note that this is a cd009 swap


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You won't hear grinding on forward gears because you are bumping into the synchro rings. Grinding when attempting to put in reverse if your clutch is not disengaging.

As far as I know the Twins have a synchromesh reverse as well so would be no different than forward gears. Also, if you keep pushing the lever into a gear with the clutch not fully disengaged you'll grind regardless of synchros.

Not a lot we can probably do. Any guesses could be way off base since there are thousands of things that could go wrong with a swapped unit.

Your release bearing probably isn't set up properly so you're not getting disengagement.

Yah i manage to get a video of the bearing in action i know the tilton is self adjusting but should it be riding like that in the picture im not sure if its constantly applying pressure or what but it wasnt this pressed in when I installed the bearing this is without the clutch applied i thought it was suppose to be just a hair off the pressure plate even still this shouldn’t be the problem ill still be able to go into gear
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...1ffb2bd2a7.png


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You mean just touching the fingers? Yes, that's how it works. Link the video.

So I’m not sure how to post a video but I spoke with tilton they were really helpful had me run a few test to see if its the hydraulic bearing. Everything seems to work properly so they suggested that it could very well be the clutch if the trans is new and mechanically sound. Also mentioned that for swaps like these it could be hard to get the input shaft center of the pilot bearing when you have very little space to work with. Lots of times if not center it could push the pilot bearing out of its proper place. But could also be the pressure plate being bad, clutch disc not being installed correctly, etc so dropping the trans is my only option. Im a truck driver and have little ones so i just don’t have time to drop the transmission anymore so I contacted a transmission shop as soon as i told them it was a manual swap and wasn’t a stock transmission they declined the work. All i wanted them to do was drop the trans and inspect the clutch, and pilot bearing if the clutch needed to be replaced id send the clutch back and use my warranty since its new. If i cant a shop to do that simple job i might give up on this build and sell it for a type R at this point.


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You might call All Aspects. They're in Greatbridge over in Chesapeake and do a lot of Subbie and Miata mtrsports work.

Gave them a call unfortunately they said they are too backed up so they dont wanna accept my car and have it for a while they recommended trust automotive but they quoted $900. I have it but definitely not paying that lol i was just being lazy and didnt wanna spend a weekend dropping the trans by myself anymore but I desperately wanna get this car on the road(been in my garage for 3 months)so i got a friend thatll help me.


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Let us know what you find. That's a lot of custom stuff to strap together at once.

Wont go into gear
 

Just an update!!
I removed the trans yesterday the input shaft is working properly and not damaged but when i unbolted the pressure plate i noticed that a few bolts were overly tightened which is supposed to be at 18ft lbs. when removing them it sort of relieved the pressure on the pressure plate if you get what im saying. I used a 1/2in torque wrench when i first installed it which was probably not a great idea so this time I purchased a digital 3/8in torque wrench ranged from 5-100ft lbs. i installed a new pilot bearing even though it already had a new one but why not right. I checked the clutch disks and pressure plate for damages, or warpage. All is good but i have a suspicion that the pressure plate bolts were tightened enough to not let the clutch disengage you can sort of tell by the picture because i dont think 18ft lbs is going to strip paint like that but i am a rookie so idk. So this time i will not rush this out of excitement and be very careful. Ill update when i finish battling a war with installing the cd009 back. Forgot to mention the disks were in fact oriented correctly https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...2392f8f708.jpg


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I get what you're saying about using a torque wrench at the bottom of its range. It's good to have the overlap.


I don't think a slight over-torque did any damage, or would have rendered the clutch inoperative. When you get everything back together, and you're certain there is no air in the system, try adjusting the pedal to get as much throw as possible. Maybe you need a larger diameter master cylinder.