Originally Posted by blsfrs (Post 3530907)

I had those codes after an engine rebuild. The engine ran well but those codes would pop up every 4-5 drive cycles. I checked all over the forums and found a couple of previous references mainly suggesting the valves needed adjusting. With my tuner, we finally decided to "turn them off" since could not find the cause. So far we are living happily ever after.

Originally Posted by Shadow6 (Post 3531082)

So your car was/is otherwise running fine?

I think I’m gonna throw an O2 sensor at it, though the current one tests fine with a multimeter so I’m not optimistic.

It seems like adjusting the valves on these things is probably a pain in the ass.


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Originally Posted by Shadow6 (Post 3531205)

Yeah, I agree. I have a really hard time imagining it’s actually the valves—plus the threads dealing with the P219A/P119F/valve issue reference a Subaru and/or Toyota TSB that was specifically for low mile 2017+ cars, and I have a higher mileage 2014.

An update: a new downstream O2 sensor (Denso) I installed this morning does not seem to have fixed the code—I have P219A pending after a short test drive—but I swear the slightly rough idle and tendency to want to stall when coasting to a stop is gone.

I will take a look at what you suggested on the temps (and back pressure on either side of the front catalytic converter) and report back. I will say I haven’t done autocross in the car since covid, but it’s doesn’t feel down on power.

I’ve put an email in to OpenFlash Performance, I might try flashing it back to has to see if that changes anything. I’ve had issues with bad E85 throwing codes before, maybe all my local E85 is “bad” now.


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Originally Posted by RZNT4R (Post 3531232)

Why downstream!? Did you even have a glance at the DTC description? It runs on the Crank position sensor and the upstream A/F sensor.

Originally Posted by RZNT4R (Post 3531293)

That site says it's a NOx (nitrous oxide) sensor issue, which exist only on diesels. Note that trouble codes higher than the P0xxx range are manufacturer specific and can mean anything!

https://gt86stuff.onrender.com/t3Portal/

Repair manual -> Engine/Hybrid System -> FA20 Engine Control -> SFI System -> P119E,P119F,P219A; Bank 1 Air-Fuel Ratio Imbalance for Port Injection

Originally Posted by Shadow6 (Post 3532746)

So I got a chance to start going through the FSM helpfully linked above, and I’m able to determine that I’ve got a “lean imbalance” detected using the crank speed sensor. This matches up with my freeze frame LFTs and SFTs, which are both slightly positive.

The first test is using the Toyota diagnostic equipment to change injection volumes and look at misfire counts to determine which cylinders are causing the issue. I don’t have the Toyota diagnostic equipment of course, so instead I just did a long test drive while keeping an eye on my misfire count PID.

Cylinders 2 and 3 are normal, 0 misfires once warm. Cylinder 1 gives me up 3-4 at idle once warm. Cylinder 4 gives me up to 13 at idle once warm. All four stay at 0 at cruising RPMs. I do not get a misfire DTC.

I checked the intake manifold with a smoke machine, no leaks there now that I’ve replaced the throttle body. I don’t hear an exhaust leak.

So at this point the next steps involve the spark plugs and then the injectors (both port and direct). I’m thinking with 80k+ miles maybe I just throw a new set of plugs at it anyway and see if that changes anything, since they’re probably about due. Maybe swap coils around after if I’m setting the same misfires?

Any other thoughts?


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Originally Posted by blsfrs (Post 3532951)

Is it possible that an inaudible exhaust leak could throw off your afr? Slight crack in the header? I saw a post where a leak at the header/overpipe gasket caused an afr problem. A small leak would be hard to hear over the noise of a Russian tractor engine. It's relatively easy to check and replace gaskets.

Originally Posted by Shadow6 (Post 3533262)

Yeah, I lack both an oscilloscope and any understanding whatsoever of how to use one.

I think I’m looking at swapping DI injectors around this weekend to see if that moves my misfires. Do I need to order any new gaskets or anything? I assume new intake manifold gaskets? New fuel injector o-rings?

If it is the injector should I just replace the bad one? Anyone have a suggestion for where to get a new one?


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Originally Posted by blsfrs (Post 3533296)

The DI's have teflon seals that require a special tool to install and then they are a bit of a PITA to get back into the engine. (IMHO)Your best bet is to find an injector shop that can clean and service DI's and PI's.



Is the bottom bolt on you DI ecu tight?

Originally Posted by Shadow6 (Post 3533301)

Hmm, I think I might check that bolt (is there a photo you can link me to?) and throw spark plugs at it/swap coils. If that doesn’t change anything I guess I’ll have a mechanic pull the DI injectors and send them out for cleaning. There’s a guy here in Ohio that does it.

I was afraid DI injectors would be a pain just because of the pressure involved both from the fuel and the combustion. Damn.

Edit: no sense playing with swapping around injectors if I’m paying someone to do it right? I just ought to send them out?


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Originally Posted by RZNT4R (Post 3533379)

DI seals are a pain but kids with aprilias can do them with a tapered punch, a piece of hose and a hose clamp, that's how I do them on VWs. Lightly expand the teflon seal on the puch until it can barely get on the tip, slide it into the groove, slide piece of hose on the seal and tighten hose clamp to shrink it back on. let it rest clamped while you replace the seal on the next injector.

DI seals aren't *that* fragile, they'll survive one R&R. Clean the tips with intake cleaner, give it a drop of oil and sliiiide it back in. See if issue follows, if it does, order one injector and one seal kit, if it doesn't two seal kits to close it back up for good.

Originally Posted by blsfrs (Post 3533429)

Your experience with DI's is different that mine (and others on this forum). My injectors would not just slide in. I had to freeze and lube them then push them in by tightening them down with the fuel rail bolts.


I watched videos of other car's DI and indeed, they appeared to slide in with finger pressure but ours won't.


I like your technique of "shrinking" the seal. I'll try that, if I ever have to deal with those b***ches again.

Originally Posted by blsfrs (Post 3533429)

Your experience with DI's is different that mine (and others on this forum). My injectors would not just slide in. I had to freeze and lube them then push them in by tightening them down with the fuel rail bolts.


I watched videos of other car's DI and indeed, they appeared to slide in with finger pressure but ours won't.


I like your technique of "shrinking" the seal. I'll try that, if I ever have to deal with those b***ches again.