$5K for track build
 

About to pick up a GR86. Will use it mostly for track duty…must be street legal so I can drive it to/from the track.

If you had $5K for upgrades, what would you do?

what is your track experience?

18x8.5 +40 rims with tw200 tires…2000
Rcr ss1 coilovers…1600
Proper brake pads and fluid…400
The remaining 1k up to you.

Have you factored in recurring and consumable costs?

Camber plates, camber bolts, rear lca, alignment -3 and -2 degrees camber F/R to start: $1k-$1.5k, car will probably want more camber but you’ll figure it out in time.
Use up the factory ps4s, pick next tires as desired $1k give or take.
Brake pads $500
Brake fluid $50
Real oil cooler $750

Use the rest on gas.

If I was to completely start over again, this is what I'd do:

• Driving school(s)
• Simpson Hybrid Sport + compatible helmet
• Track pads + fluid
• Oil cooler
• Front camber plates / rear camber arm
• Action cams (in-car + external) + data logging

the BEST first question.

also, $5k what? $5k per track day? $5k per month? $5k per year? $5k all-in(and no one is ever all-done paying for track stuff)?

~20 track days in a modified Miata.

Already have a helmet, Hans, camera, data logger, and tools.

I have $5K for initial upgrades.

I’m seeing a lot of recommendations to start with an oil cooler. How serious are the overheating problems on track? Besides the oil cooler, would hood vents help?

- oil cooler
- wheels/tires
- coilovers
- camber plates / alignment
- brake pads, fluid, lines
- sway bars

If the suspension is in decent shape, you might run it stock for a while. Spend the extra $1k on a header and a tune. In Va? Are you going to run Summit Point and VIR?

Those items are pretty much the go to. The oil cooler will get you mixed responses on this forum. Personally, I’m a fan of them. The new gen 2 cars have one however apparently it’s just not that efficient. The hood vents are more about eliminating lift at the front.

Nothing but Brake Fluid, pads, and camber adjustments. They are really good stock already.

So, the response depends on how many days per year you want to do and what your goals are. If you're doing fewer than 10 days per year and are just looking for some fun trackdays, $2k for a set of RS4's and some wheels (17s to keep the costs down) then some camber plates/bolts for the front and some good pads. Keep the rest to do more events.

If you're looking to do more events then I'd get the AP Racing sprint kit, the pads are cheaper and last longer plus you'll never have to worry about brakes. I'm also in the pro-oil cooler camp, I ran one on my 2014 and only had to tighten the connectors once over 6 years with 30 or more days per year. You'll probably also want some coilovers, I'd recommend doing it right the first time so you don't feel like doing it a second time. Unfortunately, wheels and tires, AP brakes, oil cooler, and suspension is going to run about $7k.

I’ve been to all three tracks at Summit Point, Dominion, Pitt Race, and Lightning at NJMSP. Haven’t done VIR, yet. It’s on the bucket list.

Any other good ones near VA?

The AP Racing Sprint Kit is $2,300. I’m all about the brakes, but that’s a lot.

Agree on the coilovers. Will go with a good set the first time.

Other that the big 3 that you mentioned, there is a small test track near Emporia, Va. They only run 1-2 events/yr. I'll try an look up the actual name when I get a chance.

The AP kit is more of an investment, the pad design is cheaper and thicker than what the stock calipers use. Over time, you recoup the cost of the kit. For me, pads went from lasting 4-6days with the stock setup to 6-8 with the AP kit which also saved $30-$50 per set. Pads cost me about 15% less and lasted 30-50% longer, which comes out to $300-$500 per year in pad savings. Rotors do cost more than stock and that cut the savings about in half.

Looking at my records I had a net savings of about $200 per year for 6 years, and I still have the kit. Now, that is less than $10 per event so if you aren't doing too many events the kit won't make as much sense.

Thicker yes, bigger, no.

The actual mass of the pads are about the same as stock, within 1%, so you are not actually getting "more pad".

What you are getting is a weight reduction from a lighter caliper, increased caliper rigidity, and more rotor cooling. This cooling is likely why your pad cost ended up going down; you went from exceeding the capacity of your pad to barely at the capacity of your pad.

You may also end up with insufficient rotor thermal capacity in some cases, depending on the car's weight, tire used, and power output. The Sprint system really only belongs on lighter, lower powered cars.

coilovers
brake pads
wheels and tires
harnesses

When tracking, I'd say the priority is safety and minimizing expenses. Getting a 2nd gen, it has a built in oil cooler so I think you can skip out on a dedicated oil cooler for now.

First is getting brakes so pads and fluid should be a good starting point at least until you run out the OE set of rotors. After that, look at getting a BBK but till then, you're probably better served just buying pads and fluid. Lots of options although I was happiest with Winmax W5 when I ran them a few years ago. I'm running Carbotech XP10 right now which are getting the job done but they don't fill me with the same confidence the Winmax W5s did. Lots of options for fluid. I run Castrol SRF which I only replace once every 2-3 years and it holds up fine.

Other priority is getting enough camber so you don't tear the shoulders off all your tires prematurely. Target a minimum of -3f/-2r but more doesn't hurt. Camber adjustable rear lower control arms are plentiful and affordable, I still run SPC RLCA that I bought for like $120 for the set back in 2014. Higher quality options exist but I don't think are needed by any stretch unless you need them for specific classing rules.

Up front, camber plates can do it but considering the cost of plates, I'd suggest just getting coilovers because you'll end up wanting them eventually anyways. If your primary use is street driving with a bit of track work, RCE SS1 which are good and I run them, but if you are mostly track and fun stuff, then a more track geared coilover setup like KWv3 or KW Club Sports might be a better investment.

Oh yeah, if your coilovers don't come with adjustable front swaybar endlinks, consider spending a few dollars on a set. To set them, you need to remove preload under the same situation you would be driving in. Basically connect one side at an approximately appropriate length and leave the other side disconnected. Load your car as though you will be driving it on track. If you drive alone, get someone close to your weight to sit in the drivers seat, if driving with someone else, try match the weight differential. Once vehicle weight is set, adjust endlink length so it goes through the connecting hole with no tension and tighten it down and you're done.

Spend the rest on wheels and tires. IMO most important is to get a style you like but I recommend sticking to 17 inch for affordability. RS4 are sticky and affordable and will last a long time.

The AP racing sprint kit has great resale value.

My picks: Oil cooler; spare wheel/tire set, camber bolts and alignment, dedicated track pads, save the rest for track day entries, fluid changes, fuel. There is no tunning option for now so I'd skip thinking about a header for now - throw in a hi-flow air filter and call it a day. If I was about to get a BBK later down the way I'd probably go Brembo GT once again.

What oil temps are you guys seeing at the track with stock engine? If it's below 280 degrees F, I don't think an external oil cooler would be worth the hassle..

279

Not yet on this platform, but on others with much higher HP ratings, I've done so much experimenting with various oil coolers as well as temps. I got oil that hit 290s on Camaros and Corvettes tested at the lab, and in both cases, oil (5W-30 and 0W-40 Mobil1) was in excellent shape, and there was nothing elevated in lab results that would show any abnormal wear.

I'd not be worried if it stays in 270s or even 280s, and we can get it lab tested, too, for peace of mind. I know that they're also designed to withstand more, but to give you an idea, a Corvette engine gets into limp mode only at 325 degrees F oil temp (or 260 degrees F coolant with 21 PSI cooling system).

Also, if the coolant temp also gets elevated when oil gets to that 279 degrees F, a better radiator might provide relief for both.

Save up for some Penske's?

https://shop.penskeshocks.com/produc...-2013-present/

https://shop.penskeshocks.com/wp-con..._image_2-1.jpg

You said 280 so 279 was me having a little fun.



It's been discussed ad nauseum - and while quality oil can work at that heat range there's a host of reasons to keep it cooler if it's convenient or in the budget to do.

Is there an oil cooler that fits the second generation cars yet?

Color fittings.

PM me to order.