Something seriously wrong?
 

I put on gruppe-s UEL headers, overpipe, and replaced the gasket on my Invidia n2 a couple days ago. Fuel trims were slightly above -5 and I was going to collect the logs this week. Noticed today while idling at work that my LTFT was -13.2. When I got home I reflashed the off the shelf stage 2+ tune in thinking maybe it was something I have changed in the tune with the UEL headers causing it. It’s still wanting to climb up to high negative LTFT sitting at -9.8 after just a couple of minutes. I cleaned my MAF Sensor before doing the reflash. I don’t hear a leak and I’m using grim speed double thick gaskets. The O2 sensor that I can reach from opening the hood is nice and tight. Not sure where to go from here other than jacking up the car and trying to tighten the second O2. I’m running a mishimoto true cold air intake. Which I was told had basically stock maf scaling. Please someone help.


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Check for leaks at all connection points

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What intake?

Also need a lot more info, you usually get better help posting a log to datazap.me and the guru's can help you out. Check out steve99's thread on logging. Having -13.2 LTFT doesn't give us any info since it has no context. If that was a cold start then I wouldn't think anything of it. If that was full operating temp and at idle, that is a different story.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...01#post1842501

Leaks where? Intake or exhaust?


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Something seriously wrong?
 

Mishimoto true cold air intake.
Full operating temp at idle.
I know how to log. What do I need to log? Same stuff that I would log for rescaling?
And just it idling or drive around a little bit?

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since you reflashed, car needs to learn new setup so you need to drive around.
i would datalog normal driving for 10~15 min and WOT from 3rd gear of 3K RPM to redline for 2~3 runs and post logs

I have one of just idle if you want it.

https://datazap.me/u/christian628/lo...9?log=0&data=1

I have one of just idle if you want it.
https://datazap.me/u/christian628/lo...9?log=0&data=1

probably not.
I am not expert on reading datalogs either
but here's my old file for local and highway driving around. change your data type of category. it's not enough information. add afr, STFT, LTFT, ADV, etc (look at mine)

https://datazap.me/u/zc06kisstherain...y?log=0&data=1

GL

Do you all not have the ability to click on those values to add them to the chart? I don't understand how to work this website.


Do these links work? I had to do WOT in 2nd gear I read that was fine. Not a lot of straight roads around me that are safe for me to redline 3rd gear.

https://datazap.me/u/christian628/lo...7-8-9-10-11-12 Driving around
https://datazap.me/u/christian628/lo...7-8-9-10-11-12 WOT 2 Gear
https://datazap.me/u/christian628/lo...7-8-9-10-11-12 WOT 2 Gear 2

Are you using the OTS Stage 2 maf scale or did you change it?

Something seriously wrong?
 

I have not touched maf scaling at all and I’m on the normal stage 2 + oft tune
My intake is supposed to be practically stock scaling.
Take a look at my logs. The moment I go wot my trims are acceptable. I haven’t taken a look at the trims for me just driving around yet. Going to take a look when I get home from work.

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You need to rescale the MAF.

Closed loop vs. open loop. That is why you need to log injection mode. It is all in the link I put in previous post along with other info if you look in steve99's sig.

You need to add them in your OFT or ECUTEK. Not from datzip

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They are there, you have to click them to activate them on the chart. The only thing he is missing is IAM.

Something seriously wrong?
 

What is IAM?
I’m using a OFT
My fuel trims have been fine all around till last Monday morning. Why is my MAF just all of a sudden needing rescaling? My intake isn’t supposed to need scaling. Steve himself said this intake was basically stock scaling.


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Something seriously wrong?
 

Then drive the car for a while longer and see if the trims settle, depending on your driving it takes around 100 miles. IAM=Ignition advance multiplier, it is just advance multiplier on the OFT menu.
One of the threads I found searching “BRZ Mishimoto CAI scaling” was a thread from him talking about it needing some tweaking so :iono: Even the OFT base maps took some maf scaling on my car with a stock intake. If you are going to spend all that money on mods why not take the time to log it and make sure everything is good. Reading your first post it did not seem like your fuel trims were good and it “sudden needing rescaling.” I thought you said it was -5% after installing new parts and then you reflashed and it went off further.

It seems like you are looking for an answer you want to hear and not actual help.

It’s a little off but like I said basically stock. Which would be completely safe to drive on like -5 at idle is. And I had -5 at idle for a long time until about a week after installing new UEL headers. Now I have -13.6 and a rough idle quite literally out of no where. For several days after the UEL Header install the fuel trims sat around -5 to -7 at idle constant. And reflashing isn’t when I saw it get worse. I reflashed hoping to fix it and it didn’t. I understand I should maf scale to get the best fuel trims, but What I’m asking is what caused it randomly to start sitting at -13.6 to -16.5 at idle and have idle issues when it should have about the same or like you said a little off of stock? I don’t see -16.5 as a little off of stock and something must be wrong right? Idk I don’t mean to be a **** or ignore your advice. I’m just a little paranoid and scared of damaging the car. I tried rescaling it myself and struggled could anyone help me?


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Next time it does that rough idle log it and post it.


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I have it on my computer at home logged. I’ll post it in the morning. The afr bounces around. idk if I caught it almost stalling or not.


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Is it bouncing to the lean side? Could be that the gasket on the O2 sensor is leaking when you swapped to the new one.

Something seriously wrong?
 

I’ve seen the afr bounce all the way from 13.6 to 15.2 that’s just off of memory so I might be a little wrong on this numbers. But I know for sure I’ve seen it hit 13 something and seen it hit 15 something at idle.
At first I thought I could be because they are UEL headers.
I tried to make sure the O2 sensors were tight the other night. Couldn’t tighten them up or loosen them any with my normal wrench. I ordered a tool right after that. Going to try to inspect them maybe I need a new one or new gaskets. I didn’t even know it had a gasket, but I didn’t put them in my friend did and I tightened them.
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Bouncing around lean like that indicates an exhaust leak so I would check the the mounting surfaces and the O2 sensor. The gasket on the sensor is a crush washer, like what you see on a spark plug. Though I would anticipate seeing a positive LTFT if that is what it is, not a negative.


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IDLE bouncing

https://datazap.me/u/christian628/id...7-8-9-10-11-12

No exhaust leak. Maf voltage also looks stable with engine load. How many miles since reflash, runs okay when you are driving, just idle issue?

Maybe a little over 30 miles since reflash. I dont notice any issues when driving and the wot logs look fine.


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Give it a bit more time and see what it does. Nothing really stands out aside from the LTFT being so off at idle. If it is still behaving similar after around 100 miles it looks like it may need a bit of maf rescale on the bottom. Just give it a bit longer to see if it settles first.

Something seriously wrong?
 

Drove it to work today. I let it idle for a while and saw it get as low as -7 while parked before i had to go in. STFT was still jumping around from 2 to 0. Ill update on my next break. Tomorrow Im going to replace my intake filter and clean the pipe. See if i can find what was or still is causing this. Going to inspect/clean my o2 sensors and double check my headers as well. Anything else I should check out?
Going to log some driving to scale as well. Going to do 2nd gear 3k to redline WOT pulls and slow under 3k rpm driving. Any tips?
Are there any videos of people walking you through all this stuff? If not someone should really make one. A whole lot easier to listen to and see someone do it then read and understand it. At least for me it is.

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I'm the same way, better visual learner then book learner.

The easiest guide that I found is the one by steve99. I know guys like him, tomm.brz, and kodename47 are pretty knowledgeable on that stuff. I know enough to get myself into, and sometimes out of trouble.

This is the thread I used to tweak the maf scaling my car and it worked pretty well. I'd put a bit more mileage on your's before changing anything though.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64790

Now it will get down to high -7 low -8 and then go back to high -11 to low -12. AFR is much more consistent. Yeah i have to run around and do some stuff tomorrow. By the time Im done i should have that 100 miles. Then I’m going to double check everything and if it doesn’t change I’m scaling.


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Before i even start the car my diagnostics say that my ltft is -5.6 is this normal?


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I wouldn't worry about it. May just be showing you the last value.

Something seriously wrong?
 

Where can i buy a new o2 sensor gasket? Mine is done and after reinstalling I’m throwing a code for my first 02 sensor. I cleaned my maf again and now my afr is stuck at 14.69. Have i trashed it now as well?


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Without seeing a log or knowing the code I can't tell you what's going on. The ECU pulls the afr from the O2 so maf may be fine. I'd really only fix issues and not mess with anything else. Let it hit 100 miles minimum then start logging. Through your previous logs it didn't look like you had an exhaust leak and it looked like the maf was reading fine. O2 sensor gaskets can probably be picked up at a local parts store.

Something seriously wrong?
 

Im just getting the code for the first O2 sensor. I forgot that the O2 sensor affects afr as well. I got a new one coming and if the issue isn’t solved after the new O2 and washers then ill rescale.
Even though I had the O2 sensor code the idle was good so im hoping its fixed. I cleaned entire intake, throttle body, and changed to a new freshly oiled filter. Along with re torquing the headers and screwing up my O2 lmao.

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Are you fouling your MAF with too much oil? That is one of the two reasons I steer clear of reusable filters. That and, without increasing cross-sectional area, the only way to get an air filter to flow better is by reducing filtration.

:bs:

(it's a slow day in Puyallup - ;))

That doesn't make the air filter flow any better. It just sucks at it harder. :slap:

That makes no sense - :confused0068:

I suggest you go back and finish your nap - :rolleyes:

It's physics, old man. Don't hurt yourself.