Tow strap install - where?
 

Curious for track cars where you are installing the tow strap?
one like this. https://www.amazon.com/Sparco-01612R.../dp/B00BG423YA

Front and rear tow locations

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Thats where I would like them to be but I'm not sure how to install them securely. The factory tow hook bolt is too large for the hole in the mounting tab for the strap. Just bolting to outer shell of crash bar doesn't seem like a good plan.

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Look for a strap that's assembled with a threaded rod that fits Subarus.

the ford focus rs my buddy sent me a picture of is any sort of seriousness, you simply zip tie it to the plastic bumper.

You can try an adapter like this:


https://www.evasivemotorsports.com/s...aru-brz-13-20/

https://raceseng.com/media/catalog/p...r-red-base.png

https://raceseng.com/tug-strap-model-specific

So just to verify that I’m reading this right, I can just secure my car by the front me rear tow hook? I have the Raceeng two\recovery hooks already mounted so I can just get a heavy duty ratchet strap and hook it to that?

https://www.ftspeed.com/part/01x-361...k#.YhDgS4FOmfA
https://www.rallysportdirect.com/par...-hook-rear-red

are we talking recovery from a track off moment, or trailer tiedown? because i would never ever use the horizontal bumper recovery points for vertical trailer tiedowns. somethings going to give, and it won't be on the trailer.

From a trailer tie down. If that’s not a good idea then cool, just wondering what I need to get so I can secure it down to my new trailer.

For trailer tie down, I installed E track, and use straps like these. Great for low profile cars.

yep, the tire tie downs are nice. or you can alternately tie down to the lower a-arms on both ends, but that requires getting under the car, which some don't like.

all the rules of this video apply, you just don't have solid axles to attach to.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufADJpc8lFM

There are two tie hooks under the front of the car on each side just in front of the tires.

I use the 2 front factory tow hooks plus the factory T-Hook slot locations just in front of each rear tire....need a T-Hook like this to use...then the car is strapped using the body, not the suspension.

I’m about and inch a half lower with my coilovers. Add on top of that the splitter… I don’t have much room to play with. I think using tire straps might be the way to go.

but then if you hit a bump, there's a chance the car will bounce hard enough to loosen the straps, and it also puts a serious shock load on the straps if they go loose and then tight again. but the road crews around me don't now how to make bridge transitions anything but speed bumps...

Thanks for all the good links. So I was originally asking about tow straps (not hooks) for the purpose of off track recovery. In the meantime I also cam across this NRG one. But the shaft they have pictured looks suspiciously like the crap aluminum ones that just break off.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1

i wouldn't bother with that one. looks like all show and no go.

You're going to have to spend the money on a proper strap made for the car. Hint: not on Amazon.

Agreed. I've had that kind snap off before.

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Towed the car over 25,000 miles in the last 2 years, never had an issue. As stiff as my suspension is, the car isn't bouncing anywhere. These spots are also where they are secured on the ship to the US and on delivery trucks between the port and the dealership.

I disagree with a few things in this video, starting with not crossing the straps (I cross the engine end). The weight distribution is a nice demo of why you want the load on the trailer properly, but there are better ways of getting the tongue weight correct - and I mean correct, not "that looks sorta ok". The tip about using dry lube is pretty good, tho.

you won't like motortrend's conversation about the topic either then.

https://www.motortrend.com/features/...wn-techniques/

FWIW, mine worked just fine the only time it was used.
Can you tell us what happened to break yours?

Given they don't even discuss the weight balance, nope. I'd argue that's far more important to a safe tow than the details of which way the straps run (for anyone who doesn't already know, the rule of thumb is 10% of the total trailer weight on the hitch). They also make no mention of checking the straps for damage before installation or for tightness after a short distance. Personally I stop after a couple miles after getting underway, then every time we get out of the car (food/gas stop) I invite anyone else to also give the rig a quick once over on the way to or from (or both, for the truly paranoid).

There's also some difference between strapping down a Jeep with solid axles and a sports car with fully independent suspension. Note the factory shipped the cars over with the body strapped down, not the suspension. I'd expect that they (or their shipping company) knows a bit about how to keep this particular load where you put it.

I’ve seen one like that break as well. Got used twice and sat on the car for about 2 years before that exposed to the elements iirc, first time loading the car onto a flatbed, the second time unloading it from the flatbed. I can’t recall if it was the bolt that goes through the hinge or it it was the aluminum that necks down to the threads that snapped but half the tow hook went flying about 40 ft away.

I’m in the camp of using the factory piece that comes with the car. :iono:

Good to know, thanks. Maybe I just got lucky. I use the OEM piece in the back, but the strap in the front. I guess I should find another OEM one to use in the front. Thanks, gents!

For the frugal, maybe worth snagging another one at a junk yard and just installing both?

Sure.

It's also only $30 new at the priciest vendor I can find, a few places listing it for $20, plus shipping. Saving $10 isn't worth the hassle imho. Although be wary of fake oem parts, that's definitely a thing signed my accessory belt that shredded in <5 miles. If you're in a junkyard check Forresters and Imprezas, it might be the same thing. Hell maybe it's shared on a prius for all I know, just don't get tunnel vision if you're looking for 86 parts and they don't have an 86.

https://parts.fairfieldsubaru.com/p/...RoC8E8QAvD_BwE

https://www.certifiedsubaruparts.com...hoCPdkQAvD_BwE


And fwiw, the style of tow hook/strap linked isn't a problem, it's the quality control, well designed and with the proper metal it should be solid, I would trust this Raceseng one for example, but a no-name off Amazon or Ebay, I'd pass, or at least, I wouldn't use it to move the vehicle, it'd be a show only piece. It's not worth the risk when you've got a high quality piece in the trunk for free.

https://www.ftspeed.com/part/01x-361...E#.YhUtwOjMKUk

Yes on the other models, in the Fairfield Subaru link it lists other cars that use the same hook - the one I'd look for is a '12 to '16 Impreza or '09 to '22 Forester. Might make for a cheaper eBay buy as well looking for one of the other cars. It's also the same on the new twins, so any twin will do if you're shopping for one of those.

Tried to pull on to rollback. Was at an angle and snapped as soon as there was tension. It broke where the hook piece threads into the shaft. I think it was one of those $100+ cusco ones. Which I thought would be ok but I dont think it could handle the angle, straight on would have been fine probably.