K24 FRS TA build
 

Hello Gent's im Trip
This is my 2013 Scion FRS track toy.
I have done a few years of HPDE & autocross & 1 year of Time Attack with her. I have tried to keep her basic & reliable over the years & now im ready to ramp it up a lil.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...1f4959c584.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a5c126f169.jpg

The plan is to do a N/a Honda K24 swap into it to compete in the Gridlife Club TR class.

So if you want to Follow along I will have a full video series of the whole process but will try to remember to update it here as well.

IG: https://www.instagram.com/trip_skywalker/?hl=en
Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/tripskywalker

Edit
I finished my build & have compressed my Long build series down to a 10 min video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gOr6...=TripSkyWalker

So in this first video i kinda go over Why the K swap? & why i think it is the best choice for me.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=saLn...=TripSkyWalker
VIDEO link^^^^^

k24 tear down
 

So i ordered my K24A from JDM Orlando
They were nice & easy to deal with.
didnt take long at all to ship.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...f6840fa18f.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...c98a6afaf6.jpg
Everything seem to be there & great shape.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...28f77761ec.jpg
I went a head & started stripping it down to inspect everything
looks to be taken care of & lowish miles.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...d3399c87e5.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...e31f97d62c.jpg

Next on the Agenda for the k24 frs swap was to replace some the old parts with some fresh new stuff. Even though most of it was probably perfectly fine i wanted to have a better piece of mind since i do not know the history of this motor.

I installed a:
Type S oil pump
Time chains
all the guides
tensioner
water pump
oil pan baffle
Cam gear

Old Stuff:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3cb5f8cc89.jpg

new stuff:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...9ab04697f9.jpg

Here is the Video of this process:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H5Yq...=TripSkyWalker

Im trying to Catch up the Forum post hence why all the back to back post.
So on Sept 1 21 i was able to Order my #fa20deletekit / FRS / BRZ K swap kit from Kpower
https://kpower.industries/collection...ersion-package

I ordered to full kit minus the AC stuff & shifter plate since i have a IRP shifter.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b7e3f9be50.jpg

I also figured out it was a dumb idea to go with a JDM k24a because i had to replace the water pump housing & all the attached components.
So new Alternator, water pump, belt tensioner & belt.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...db9019d714.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...617d7e93d2.jpg

Here is the Video of that process.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EBXO...=TripSkyWalker

But now we wait

So i also ended up Replacing the Crank pully
Because the JDM one was too big to fit the Ktuned Tensioner Cover.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...cf1c2ed83e.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...1c98a1d520.jpg

The K24a screwed me again ha

Nice man! Looking forward to more videos :cheers:

So on NOV 10 21 it was time to pull the old FA20 out
This was my first time pulling this one out & i must say this probably the easiest motor i have ever pulled.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...ba5917348d.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...35d13db1d1.jpg
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Curious why was it a dumb idea to go with k24a? what would you have done otherwise, does the K20A2 solve those financial issues?

The K24A is the version from japan, KPower based this kit on the K24A2 which is the USDM spec out of the Acura TSX.

The issue was the JDM k24a has a different water pump housing, Alternator, water pump, tensioner, belt Then the USDM k24a2 & or usdm k20's
So i had to spend a few extra $100 for all the USDM stuff.

Yeah i could of ran the JDM stuff but i wouldnt be able to fine those parts at a local autoparts store if one of them decide to crap out at the track.

I see, I thought the K24A2 would be more expensive with lower torque compared to JDM does the cost basically even out after the extra $100s for components?

Not to bad if it is a TRUE JDM motor...low mileage guaranteed, which means you didn't end up with a "low mileage" motor to find the crankshaft is bad.


Will keep close attention to your feed! Was thinking of going same route as you for Gridlife or similar.

Im not A k series expert by any means still learning as i go.
But there 2 diff jdm 24a's
1 of them has a 3 lobe cam & is pretty mush the same as the usdm k24a2 with 200 hp
but the 2 lobe cam is only 160 hp

....& i just realized i have the 2 lobe =(

So yeah going JDM you have alot better chance at get a low mileage good motor
but you are not garenteed to get the one you want.

That's disheartening :( I thought your price shipped to your door for the engine was a little low for a RBB K24A, so that makes more sense now that you found out it was just the base motor. Your motor is more like the JDM version of the USDM K24A4, which is low compression and 2 lobe, as you have discovered. If you want to compete in that Gridlife class then your hands are tied, and you will have to sell this motor for the correct motor, right?

I can still run it i would just be down on power compared to everyone else. yeah i guess i have to find another motor.

You should be able to sell it to someone wanting a low compression motor for a turbo build who only has pump gas and not E85. Vtech isn’t needed if someone just wants to run big cams on the track, so you might find someone at Gridlife who wants a motor or spare motor.

I feel for you. The guy tried to sell me on a low compression K24A, before I insisted I only wanted the RBB.

Im sure i can resell it's in super good condition. Just probably wont get enough to get my money back ha. but i already ordered it's replacement.

So since im still waiting x2 now. Time to prep the body.

Hammered flat the motor mounts
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...045dea1a7c.jpg https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...a911f166c9.jpg

Ripped off the Strut bar mount ont he firewall.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...1275213524.jpg

Took the sledgehammer the the firewall for trans clearance.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...8d0a9946a9.jpg

Flattened the fuel line cover.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...20af2d7f8a.jpg

And then the real fun part! cut & hammer the Transmission mount.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...268e79d476.jpg

Full video of engine removal & body prep here.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8uNY...=TripSkyWalker

I used the scissor jack too. It worked really well.

Awesome. I tried the sledge & big hammer at first & was like Na this shit isnt going to work lol:bonk:

Shipping company are the worse. Took off work yesterday because my engine was supposed to show up. Of course it never did & even says Delivered on the tracking. Wtf

Is it FedEX? If so then this explains a lot. I think the shipping companies are running their B and C teams.

No its R&L Carriers. I usually don't have any problems with FedEx besides coming late

That is strange. R&L is a really good freight company.

This is the sec time ive used them. both times super late. Super rude & didnt really care.
I told them to call me today when they were on their way cause i had to work.
They gave me a 2 min warning lol

So my Sec k24 showed up today & it is a RBB 3 lobe this time
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...da0aa1d4f0.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...62fb2a1665.jpg

But then it exploded. i dont need any of this junk
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...5ed971b65c.jpg
But now i get to take everything from the old engine & swap it over.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...2c727af73c.jpg

So I got the 2 lobe motor stripped back down, rmvd all t the shiny new parts & oil pump off it. Got it mostly rebuilt. Then got the new 3 lobe motor completely stripped down & ready to build it back up.
...I'm getting pretty good at working on these engines already lol

Got the Sec k24a all built up & ready to go.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tBPQ...=TripSkyWalker

Enjoying this thread. Great job my friend!

Have you reached out to kpower? I actually paid for mine on the 2nd and started the car up on thanksgiving. I did however try paying for the kit within the first 5 minutes that it went live but was having issues (they lost my email), so maybe my order got bumped up to the first few. I did see about 10 people get their kits before me though.

I have talked to them Multi times, I get a diff story every time. I ordered it day 1 it came out.
anyone else order it a day or two after it went on sale & receive it?

I may be a special case for getting my kit even though I ordered on day two. My car was used to make sure the canbus was the same on the 2017+ and then with my order issue I may have got bumped up to when I actually tried to order (I called within the first 5 minutes trying to pay and the guy on the phone said they would email me the invoice, which never happened so I ended up just ordering through the website and later found out they forgot to get back to me.

Anything special with your order?

So what are the rules of the TR class again? I mean all this time stripping motors down and you don't upgrade pistons/rods? Believe it or not, a motor at high psi boost still has less stress on it at 6k rpms versus a high revving (8k) NA motor. Plus you want the reliability too.

Yeah long story short.
A shop ordered it for me, They ended up getting into some sort of argument because kpower realized they would make less money having 3rd party's order the swaps so they canceled their Dealer program after one order ..me lol
but it did get ordered. But other ppl who also ordered it at the exact same time already got their kit. funny how that works.

This class is designed for naturally aspirated vehicles using OEM equipped or swapped OEM engines 2.5 liters and under, and common modifications to popular trackday vehicles are largely permitted, in rules below. OEM forced induction vehicles of 1.6L and under are also allowed when using completely stock turbo systems.

● Forced induction cannot be swapped INTO any vehicle.

^ thanks. Gridlife is sure fun to watch. Best of luck and hopefully I can join soon.

The new 1.5L turbo Honda motors will likely be popular swaps in the near future!

Great build idea, look forward to seeing what you come up with if and when it comes about..

Another local to Nashville, seem to recall your user name on Tennspeed from back in the day?