Rustproofing for Winter
 

Has anyone considered doing rust proofing on their cars? I've never heard of it until now and I'm in Cleveland, Ohio. We have crappy roads with tons of salt. I'd like to make my car last as long as possible as a daily driver through the winters.

http://www.krown.com/process.php

http://www.krown.com/products/the-kr...krown-product/

or what about another company like Rustcheck or Motorworx?

I'm also curious about this as well. Mass has some pretty bad winters and apparently they want to use a liquid road salt which is worse for cars

Best get a winter beater ..

Not familiar with the Krown process, but I did hear Canada in there. Check Ziebart as well. Very similar application process.

Winter beater....shit. gonna be a depressing 4 months

Check out por15

I am a die-hard Rust Check user. If you have it available, that would be my first choice. I have been using Rust Check for 20ish years, and have seen it's effectiveness. The company uses Crown on the trucks at work, and it does work, but I think Rust Check works better. Just my opinion.

I read somewhere that the BRZ comes with treatment to prevent rust and corrosion.

Aftermarket rustproofing has been totally discredited. The conclusion is that it makes things worse by creating new layers that can pocket and hold water - leading to rust. The only way to delay rust is to do it at the manufacturing level by double-galvanizing and sealing. Toyota and Subaru already do this. Spend your money on frequent washing instead.

links? proof? :slap:

Yes, please.

They don't use much if any salt here so I will probably just wash my car regularly and not worry about it. My Mazda3 had no rust-proofing and after 7 years didn't have any signs of rust.

My 3000GT is getting bad rust on both rear quarter panels and underneath and it was garaged in the winter maybe half its life. was winter driven about 10 years. i just don't want this to happen to my FRS when i get it. :/

Consumer Reports

www.consumerreports.org

and The Car Guys.

http://www.cartalk.com/content/rust-...mpletely-bogus

I also read some articles in technical automotive journals that are not available except through libraries.

My wife has a 2002 PT Cruiser that we bought new. It has 120,000 miles on it and has been through 10 winters with plenty of road salt. I run it through a touchless car wash that also sprays water from underneath.
I do this every week at least during salt season.

So far it is totaly rust free other than some surface rust on a few suspension items.

Never had any aftermarket rustproofing applied.

My '06 GTI gets a little salt on it through the winters. I try to wait until the roads are clear before taking the VW out. That said it has had its share of salt and again I run it through a touchless car wash as often as I can. No signs at all of salt exposure.

Now as for my BRZ it will never see any salt and my '89 Porsche has never seen salt and hardly any rain.

A clean car is a rust-resistant car. Wash frequently. I hate using auto car washes but they offer the undercarriage wash plus I can't really do it on my own in the winter time, so once or twice a month over the winter time is an acceptable sacrifice for me. You could also call some local detailing shops and see if they offer any hand wash specials for the winter. Keep away from the crappy auto car washes and keep your undercarriage clean of sand/salt/debris. Or just buy a winter beater for <$1,000. I bought a Nissan Sentra for $100 and beat the $#!t out of it over the winter! So much fun and I don't have to care about what happens to it; the nice car can stay in the garage when the snow falls :)

I washed my STi at an auto carwash once a week or every two-three weeks. It had no signs of rust when I went to go trade it in. Then again, even if it did, not my problem anymore :)

Just sold my 2002 GMC Sonoma with 280,000kms on it and not a speck of rust on the undercarriage. No rustproofing was ever applied.

In about 3 months my FRS is going into the garage until march =D

I'm going to be using fluid film under mine for the winter. They sell spray cans and it should last for the whole winter. Best part is it will wash off if you want.

I got myself a 2010 Audi TT for winter beater.

This is from the car guys link

TOM: The people who should consider rust proofing are either those who plan to keep their cars longer than that, or those who live in areas where rust is a particular problem (like where it snows a lot and they use salt on the roads).

Getting mine done today.....

When I lived in IL, during salt season I'd just make sure to wash my car a lot. That included spraying off the underside.

The second link is dated 1991...... I didn't even know the internet (as we know it now) existed then....

Like a lot of people have said just wash often, specially the undercarriage. Lucky for me I can wash my car in the hangar I work at and stay warm!

this, your bodyshop thanks you from 5 years from now....

here is what i did on my STi and i left it alone all winter, just power washed it time to time. i plan to do the same for the BRZ.

1) wash with the two bucket method with grit guard, make sure to use a harsher soap that washes off all old wax etc.

2) clay bar

3) KLASSE all-in-one sealant/polish: http://www.autogeek.net/klashiggloss.html

4) finished it off with COLLINITE insulator wax: http://www.collinite.com/automotive-wax/insulator-wax/

that should easily hold you over.

There is a huge difference between rust proofing and fixing rust.

Preventing rust is essentially keeping the metal from direct contact with moisture (in the air or from puddles, rain, etc.)

Fixing rust is a lot different.

Rust is already a different compound than your existing metal. The rust converters that are sold through Loctite, Eastwood, Rustoleum, etc. all use an acid. For instance, tannic acid or phosphoric acid. This reacts with the rust (Iron Oxide) to form Iron tannate or Iron phosphate. This is why the rust converters turn a black color when it is fully cured.

This works IF the converter is able to make contact with all of the rust. So any rust that runs deep, will not be reached. On that note...

I posted this a while back, but I use Rust Bullet. It is a moisture cure polyurethane that contains aluminum. So it effectively draws all the moisture out of the rust to prevent it from spreading. The aluminum gives the rust more structure. The whole thing cures to a very durable polyurethane coating. This makes it a LOT easier than grinding all the rust out.

Best solution though is to grind the rust out. Use a sealer to seal the metal. Primer and paint it.

Almost exactly what I do. I use Collinite 476s instead.