Oil pan baffle plate
 

Anyone know if the stock baffle plate is required? The one that is on my car somehow broke.

I got a aftermarket greddy baffle I was going to install but I don't know if I should take the broken one off and install the greddy baffle only or get a new baffle to replace the broken one.

How did you do that?!?

I was having oil pressure problems so I dropped the oil pan and that was at the bottom of the pan. Seems like that was blocking the oil pick-up. No idea how it broke.

looks really violent with the stress fractures emanating off the broken off area. i'd be checking the rest of the block for what flung off and snapped it.

I'd suggest you get a new oil pan ........ before the rest of it falls apart - :confused0068:

That was not from a single incident. Those cracks developed over time with vibration. Just replace the baffle and make sure the fasteners are tight.

Just removed the rest of the baffle today. Came out in pieces. Going to wait for the new one.

hory sheit.

my baffle has had to crumble into a million pieces then... how is a 2015 the first car i'm seeing with this?

I daily drive my brz and it has 120k miles.

This is very interesting, indeed. Do you have engine mods, like a lightweight crankshaft pulley?


What kind of engine mounts?

That is really strange, for sure. An intuitive eye can see where the primary mode started going balls-out. We used to stop-drill cracks like these on airplane skins.


Slap some hot glue on it.

No it's completely stock

Were all the mounting screws tight? It's kind of a dumb question but maybe one of them was cross-threaded when it was inserted. I've seen weirder.

They were all pretty tight in there, none cross-threaded.

Unless this engine has any odd history, I'm kind of in Soundman's camp. Makes me want to pull mine apart to inspect. Mine sees redline practically every time I'm out and the occasional high-rpm cruise just to stay comfortable with operating smoothly up top.

I almost never push my car hard and most of the time under 4k rpm. Someone from a facebook group had the same problem and broke in the exact same spot. Maybe the metal is too thin and fragile.

Yet another reason why an oil pressure gauge is critical. The shape of the stamped ribs is wrong. Leaves a stiff mass supported by that weak ear where it first started cracking. This is a design flaw that should've been caught with a modal analysis.

that makes me even more concerned... this is my fun car. if i'm not bouncing off redline, it's not always fun.

It depends on the lowest resonant frequency of that particular shape in that specific environment. If we knew all the dimensions, we could model it and come up with a decent approximation. I would take a good one and capture the sound of tapping around it with a piece of wood. Spectrum analysis would give us the fundamental frequency. It should match the digital model very closely, within a few Hertz.