coil packs Replacements OEM or Aftermarket
 

Has anyone with a 2013-2015 FT86 use aftermarket coils while still keeping older stock harness?

Anyone have hands on experience with DELICIOUS TUNING OEM+ coils?
Anyone have hands on with CSG's pricey IP coil packs? As I am re-tuning back to NA with Zach at CSG, noticing some Miss Fires during WOT logging. The car is 7 years old and I plan to track more this year. Should I replace them?

How many miles are on the car? Have the spark plugs been serviced recently? Honestly I would ask your tuner what he is seeing and what he recommends, CSG is a good group and will not steer you wrong.

I'm curious about this as well. I wanted to buy the IP coils but I'm too afraid of the wiring harness not fitting; I'm happy enough putting gold tape on new OEM coils and seeing how long they last.

At one point, I was even considering drilling tiny holes right there to see if I can get fresh air from the tire into the engine bay, but that brings its own risks. As nice of a reputation DT has, I just can't bring myself to trust them with how short a time they've been around. I'm certain the product is good, I'm just brandwashed and loyal to brands proven over a longer period of time.

There's 2 versions, one for each harness. No need to fear :)

I've seen many, MANY IP coil packs get used by folks tired of OEM coil packs going bad at the track. Have yet to see an IP coil pack bite the dust.

FWIW I’m trying a few different things this year, namely DEI gold wrapping the coil packs and using the Verus fuel rail and DI ecu brackets to allow more airflow across the coil packs. A few people on the forum have tried one or the other and say they help. Too early to know but I’ll report back with the results. Interested to see what other solutions people have.

I assume you're tracking your car. Do you think that wrapping the header would make sense to help reduce the extra heat that the coil packs are exposed to under the hood?

Yes track and canyons. I switched to a 2017 OEM header partly because of the OEM heatshielding. If I was still using an aftermarket header, I'd definitely ceramic coat and wrap them. Anything to reduce underhood temps can only help IMO (wrap/coat/heatshielding, cooldown lap, vented hood, opening hood after sessions, etc.)

OK. Personally I've felt that the engine bay was way too hot even with the OEM header and its heat shields.

I just installed a JDL 4-2-1 that I had ceramic coated and I wrapped to try and reduce engine bay temps. I also used the DEI heat tape on the entire intake tube and box and that definitely helped.

I would be worried about wrapping the coils because they do generate their own heat and I would worry about sealing in some of that heat too.

Yeah I was worried about that issue too, but I am guessing that whatever internal heat that gets trapped by the gold tape would be lower than the radiant heat from a hot exhaust reflected by the tape. On net should be a win, but just my guess.

I'd love to see a company market heat shields for the coilpacks that go between them and the exhaust components. Seems like it'd be feasible and relatively cheap (certainly cheaper than aftermarket coilpacks or switching to 2015+ wiring harness and 4 coilpacks). I know aftermarket heat shields have been developed for coilpacks on Chevy LS engines for example.

I was going to see if I could figure something out for a heatshield, but I realized that part of the issue is that there's no moving air. Once the heat gets trapped between the coilpacks and the heat shield, it might be even worse for them, so I dissuaded myself.

What about a NACA duct on the passenger side of the hood blowing air past the cylinder head and onto the overpipe? That overpipe is what cooks coilpacks. It would be a bit "racecar" but the R34 Skyline has an asymmetric duct.

https://speedhunters-wp-production.s.../R34Prices.jpg

For anyone driving in the rain, I'd be afraid of introducing a direct water stream onto piping hot exhaust purposefully. I guess it could have a blockoff like the Verus hood vents do. This is probably a great idea for anyone doing track driving.

Yeah true, the heat shield might block the flow of air that would normally exit the bottom. I’d still love to see it tested though, just to confirm. Could also use it in conjunction with hood vents or ducting to make sure cooler air is being brought in.

If the coilpack is bad, it will have a specific code that says which cylinder it is, and specifically stating it is a coilpack problem. Misfires problems (where only the code for misfire on X cylinder is shown) are never a coilpack problem in my experience. I have gone myself thru about 8 coilpacks, a head gasket and a couple of sparkplugs and have seen my fair share of trouble for other 86 owners at the track. Never has a coilpack been the culprit when the code was not a code for a coilpack, and the other way around as well, never has something else been the problem when the coilpack code is thrown. Dont replace parts for the sake of replacing, it is not a way of doing things, its a way of wasting money and time.

I have a 2013 BRZ. I had been through two coil packs with my stock class setup, and three coil packs after I de-catted a 2017 header and added hood vents. Apparently, cooling engine compartment didn't fix the problem. FYI:5 total coil check engine lights: 3-P0351 (front right, closest to the cat) and 2-P0352 (front left cylinder)

So exactly like my case, each coilpack going bad comes with a P0351-P0354 code. If OP is just getting missfires with no code, or the code is just missfire on cylinder 1-4, then it is not the coilpacks. Everyone on this thread seems to assume that a missfire = a bad coilpack, and its really not always the case.

Just adding cooling doesn't fix the real issue, especially with hot tunes or cars making more power and running high RPM. You need a coil pack designed to handle the higher current and heat load.

IP or Cusco both address those issues. I run Cusco, and I hear IP works great too. I had misfires immediately upon racing my car, switched to Cusco coils and have never had an issue since. Adding gold foil will not fix that issue, you need a coil that can handle a higher secondary charge and more heat.

Not losing track time, or having to reinstall these are a PIA, so they pay for themselves.

I added DEI "form-a-shield" to my exhaust around the coils (they are also ceramic coated) to protect the coils from heat soak as well.

I have been getting the P0351, P0352 codes intermittently for years but have not had any issues with the car running poorly or a coil pack actually failing. I clear the code and rock on.

Have you guys actually had failures or just getting trouble codes?

I was datalogging one time at the track when I got a p0351 code. I saw elevated FLKC (around -3 to -4 degrees) above 6000 rpm afterwards, which I attributed to the coil failing.

Btw I also typically lose coilpacks 1 and 2. Coil 1 makes sense (being so close to the overpipe and cat), but Coil 2 makes no sense to me.

Can confirm the above. Neither gold foil nor switching to thinner brackets for the DI ECU helped in my case. Lost coil pack 1 after just 2000 miles on it (mostly canyon). This was on E85 tune.

Currently debating between Delicious, IP, and Cusco coil packs. Looks like Cusco works but is the most expensive of the three options.

Has anyone solved their coilpack issues with Delicious or IP?

I know friends that have gone with IP coils with good results.
The other approach is to replace the 2013-14 engine harness with one from a 2015-2016, and use the newer coils.

Anyone know the difference between the older ignition projects coil pack versus the newer IP quad spark coils? Link to the quad spark coil https://www.ignitionprojectsusa.com/...sku-ip-m149401

I'm at 60k miles so looking to change the spark plugs and the coils at the same time. Thanks!

This thread appears to have puttered out, but I just replaced my spark plugs and coil packs this weekend on my 2013 BRZ using the IP Quad sparks. Car seems to have a pretty large reduction in throttle response and overall power, I am not getting any CELs though, was wondering if anyone else had experienced similar results.

Did you do a throttle reset? How long have you driven it?

It takes about 50 to 100 miles for the car to relearn the fuel trims and be back at its best.

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I replaced the battery at the same time, but did not do a specific throttle reset. I did not see anything about that in the information I read before performing the service. I will look into how to do that. I've only driven it to work this morning which is about 25 miles. All I know is that the car runs and drives "fine" until you want to try and get some more spirit out of it and it's just not there. Was not a problem pre-service and the plugs were definitely due to be replaced upon inspection after pulling them. I was hoping for a vast improvement, but so far that is not the case.

Starting with the car off, switch the ignition to accessory mode. Press the throttle pedal all the way down and release 20x. Switch the ignition to off. Repeat once more, then start car as normal.

Should fix your throttle response. Basically speeds up the relearning procedure.

Let me know if you coil packs go bad. I was chasing a strange misfire and after doing a bunch of diagnosis that came back inconclusive, I swapped back to OEM and I think it stopped misfiring. Still need to log once more to confirm, but no CEL after swap.

Did not get any coilpack CELs when it was misfiring. Just misfire CEL on specfic cylinders.

A throttle reset appears to have everything mostly back to normal. Thank you guys for the suggestion, I would have never have thought of that.

Now that I have throttle, car runs superbly with new plugs and IP coils. Acceleration is smooth and improved. I am very pleased so far. I also notice quite a noticeable reduction in valvetrain noise. I will post if I have issues with the IP quads, but happy so far here at the start.

well this sucks. Was kinda hoping the hood vents would help fix this. So far I have only had the code for the CP on the passenger front one. PITA to replace these. When it goes out I can trigger the code every time at the top of 4th. Normal driving is just fine.

Well I have a possible CP issue now. The past couple of days I've gotten a flashing CEL when going WOT at highway speeds in 4-6th gear. It'll go out after anywhere from 5-10ish flashes. There's also a little studder/hesitation when I first try to get on it. Yesterday on my way home from work It stayed on. I checked the code when I got home and it's a P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire detected). So I swapped the #1 & 3 CPs to see if I can get the code to move to cylinder 3. I didn't drive the car again until today on my way to work. I was able to get the flashing CEL, but not steady yet. I'l try again on my way home. If that doesn't work, any thoughts on what else it could be?

Details on my car: it's a 2013 FRS, 107K miles, of which 105K have been boosted.

fuel air spark

I'd guess if it's not spark plugs/coil packs it'd be injectors. Did you replace the plugs at 60k miles?

Add me as first to the list.

:eyebulge:

Are you on quad or plasma?

IP-A149401

Here is a little bit of gold for everyone having coil pack issues. I hate to see all the suffering and money wasted replacing coil pack, especially people thinking they need high dollar ones.
I had been throwing miss fire codes on both banks intermittently for many track days. I would just clear the code and continue. It got progressively worse so I decided to investigate.
The problem is the electrical plug at the coil pack. It is poorly designed and the electrical connection is not great.
I decided to do an experiment and tweeked the male pins on the coil pack with needle nose pliers. I just twisted them 10 degrees or so to preload the connection and put them back on the car. Its been about a year (5 or 6 track day weekends) and I have not had another issue. I hope this works as well for you guys as it did for me.

Can you provide a bit more info regarding the circumstances? Heavy track use, for example?

Pretty nifty trick I'll be trying once I replace my new coils. :( :)

I love this community

I have an Edelbrock SC and just got a P0301
I want to try your trick with the coil pack electrical plug change. Did you take any pics when you tried that?

daily driven frs no track days. hot climate. car has hull exhaust and is tuned