Mis shift 6th to 3rd
 

I was driving today on the highway and cruising in 6th. Wanted to overtake a car in front and I rev matched to go to 5th but misshifted from 6th to 3rd. Not sure how fast I was going but revs went up to 6000 before I reacted and pressed the clutch again. I regularly take the car up to those rpms on canyon drives, and as I understand this is no different? I didn’t hear any noise during the mishift other than engine revving higher, car still pulls strong after. Anything to worry about? Wasn’t worried at the time but after reading some forums posts about misshifting starting to get a little paranoid.

Thanks.

As long as the Tach didn't go swinging by the redline when it happened, i would expect your engine to be fine.. Not the greatest thing for the clutch, but on the balance about the best way for a misshift to happen.

I in few cases even intentionally downshift from 6th to 3rd for very fastest acceleration for overtake on highway (the faster the acceleration, the shorter the overtake time, the safer overtake is due spending less time in opposite lane and more time/distance to opposite traffic left to return to own lane).
As gg1978 wrote, if it hasn't revved past redline, no issue, it's not what's called "money shift" :) (when you already had revved out till redline previous gear and instead of upshift misshift down). If one rev-matches, there is not even extra load/wear on clutch & synchros. Of course, if you had not just cruised normally in top gear, but had driven by speeding a lot, and with high enough rpms in previous gear, so that 2 or 3 gears lower downshift would make it overrev too high, then issues may pop up, including drastic ones like broken engine. But that's not your case, and at most you had slight one-time extra wear on synchros, reduced though by partial revmatch (for 5th), so just forget about/ignore, nothing to be paranoid of.

what's 6th? 4th is good to 108.

Yup as long as you are inside rpm range, you are within normal parameters.

Welcome to our forum - :clap:

First off, don't do that no more - :slap:

I reckon if your car is still running OK, you are OK.

Ok that’s what I figured. Thanks for clarifying. The reason I was worried was because I did not rev Match for 3rd but for 5th. If I intentionally go from 6 to 3rd I would give a much bigger rev match. So like u said I partially rev matched. The 3rd gear in a 13’ I think goes to 82 mph or something like that and I’m pretty sure I was going slower than that so I couldn’t have hit redline even if I let out the clutch completely. Like u said I likely wear the synchro or clutch slightly, but that’s like having to brake hard and putting a bit extra wear on pad/ rotors. My concern was for the engine and the force put on it from rapid climb in revs from the momentum of the car as it felt quite violent. But the concensus seems to be that if I didn’t hit the redline it’s ok. I feel better now.

This is the first time I’ve done this in 15 years of driving manual. Felt super dumb when I did it

Of course it will feel violent, as wheels via transmission/gearbox need to quickly spin up engine few K rpms more, which takes quite some energy. Less of issue on tarmac with good grip in straight line, more of issue if grip is limited, eg. in rain or in winter or mid quickly taken curve on track, where such sudden shock to driveline/wheels may result in rear loosing grip. That's why revmatch also is among handling skills worth learning, and it's pleasant to hear that you are using of (unlike majority, who just rely on synchros doing job and at most are able only let out clutch longer).

Skipping gears when downshifting is not a good idea.

Yup I always rev match on downshifts. It just feels wrong not doing that when the car jerks. Not to mention the shift will be slow.
However that’s not the way I was taught by the instructor when I learned driving manual in my teens. The way I was taught was: downshift then apply throttle slowly while letting clutch out slowly. Hopefully instructors are giving proper instructions these days to new drivers.

Driving instructors often give simplified instructions that may still somewhat work but require less time to learn and need less attention to dedicate when performing. After all, newbie learner has many other things to pay attention to and often suck at multitasking. The simpler driving methods, the more attention can be dedicated for road situational awareness and reading signs, and less what to mess up with and start panic about. So no throttle blipping, dual clutching, heal & toe downshifts, treshold and left foot braking, countersteering, clutchless shifts, flat foot shifting, clutch kicks and so on :). Newbie already spent some time to get at least minimal initial muscle memory to start driving with hopefully not stalling. It seems understandable why instructor may have decided to reuse that tought clutchwork for other shifts too.

I did the same thing once but caught it pretty quick with the clutch. No damage done.

It certainly isn't bad in any way if you know what you are doing.

It isn't bad until it is. On the street if you're very careful it can be ok however in a more track oriented situation Heel toe and rev matching, no.

Though OP was not in a track oriented situation, I do agree otherwise.

May i clarify two cases?
- When i try to overtake with max acceleration, i know my current speed, know redline speeds for each gear, know to which i need to switch and blip with throttle for rev match .. what roving though extra gears inbetween will net except extra actions for naught requiring extra time prior starting overtake?
- When i treshold brake on track after long straight and know that 2-3 gears down will be optimal in specific curve or after it .. why should i do those redundant switches? Especially if heal&toeing each of it, imho it will just reduce braking precision by those extra 2-3 gearswitches till right one. So what's wrong with doing just one properly revmatched gearshift straight to one i'll need when i'll need? +on grippy tires on dry tarmac track braking drops speed at high rate taking rather short time/passing specific gear ranges passed rather quickly.
On sequential gearbox i see nothing lost with rowing through gears, switches are quick. But not skipping gears on H-pattern .. i find it counterproductive in some situations.
Way i see, main gain for not skipped sequential downshift nets limits synchro wear for those that don't revmatch, and to have preselected right gear if need to unexpectedly accelerate appears. Such situations almost never happen for me on track (why should i try to accelerate when most of grip is spent on braking and slow speed curve ahead, unless i'm suicidal and want to go off track into wall?) and only some share of downshift cases during daily driving (where admittedly average braking rate is much slower and there actually be often cases of road situation changes to require other inputs then braking) .. so why put such strong emphasize on never ever skipping gears?
Oh, and btw, not-skipping gears will not prevent from misshifting to wrong gear. It didn't for OP and in several other cases i've read or seen videos about, even if if in each of those cases driver actually tried not to skip .. just had put in wrong gear.

(I have tried this on my Yamaha R6, but not on the BRZ yet)

Shifting down thru each gear helps because of engine braking. If you hold the clutch down or shift to neutral, and then slaw on the brakes, the whole kinetic energy is dealt with by the brakes only. However, as you are going down thru mph, being in the right gear for the right mph window, engine braking helps reduce the braking distance.

BUT... having said that, the precision and control it takes to achieve this is very high. Sequential gearing helps a great deal. If one is really trying to shave off 0.1 secs using engine braking, then they probably should invest in a sequential transmission.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141959


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