Where to put 6x9s?
 

Hey folks,

I've got a pair of 6x9s that I've taken out of my old car and I can't seem to decide whether to keep them for my 86 or just sell them. The way I see it, I have 2 options:

1. Sell them and replace the stock rear speakers with something better. The issue here is that I'm scared the sound might take a serious quality hit.

2. Find a place to put them in the rear. Maybe convert the stock housing if it's deep enough for 6x9s or build custom housings and put them somewhere. The downside here is obviously the housing. I'm kind of scared to cut a massive oval hole in my interior. Has anyone fitted 6x9s to their car? How did you do it?

I guess an overall picture of my setup would help. I'll put 6-inch speakers in the doors, tweeters in the dash and a 10-inch sub in the boot all running off 2 amps.

Suggestions please! :thumbup:

Sell them if you're running a sub.

If you're not running a sub, sell them and buy a sub.

2nd

Well considering no one really answered you, Ill give it a try.
I would not put in the 6x9s they are way too big , if they are good quality im sure you can sell them for a fair price to be able to purchase some speakers to fit in the rear.
I have JL 4inch c2's in there right now, and they make a big difference .. The fill is perfect

Yea... I'm starting to think that replacing the 6x9s with 4inch speakers would be the most practical option, even if the sound does suffer a bit. Hopefully it won't be too noticeable.

Thanks for the input guys. ;)

you would be better off replacing your front doors with a nice set of 6.5s before wasting your time with replacing the rear 4", which are deck powered btw so they have even less power than the fronts.

Of course. Already have 6s to put in the doors.

Oh, in that case if your happy with your current low end then sure do the rears if you like, if not a small sub would be better money spent.

just FYI, you absolutely could fit the 6x9s in the rear. I dont remember who it was but someone on here took a picture showing there was enough room to fit a 10in shallow sub back there. However to get the full sound from the speakers you would need to cut the interior panel and that just seems like a bad idea.

Already got a 10inch sub waiting. Haha. Read the last paragraph of my OP. :thumbsup:

Is that right!? You mean in the space where the stock 4inchers sit? Good to know that that's an option, but yea... cutting into the interior scares me a alot.

@ GuyThatFlatBlackVWIsReferingTo: If you happen to read this, please link me to your photos. Thanks!

Just pop the panel off and check it out. It comes off pretty easily. Behind the panel it's very empty and the 4" speaker is just mounted in the middle of a big empty gap on some metal brackets. I'm on my phone now but tomorrow at work I'll try to find some pictures for you.

I vote don't even bother with trying to fit 6x9's in the rear at all. Instead- A: Keep the stockers; B: just don't use them, or C: remove them altogether. Sell them for some cash or another small upgrade somewhere... Some sound deadening will add minimal weight and make substantial improvements in SQ.

I recommend: Stick with the rest of your plan to do a good 6.5" component set up front with a 10" sub in the back. You get a clean front sound stage without the extra noise coming from the 6x9's behind you. A lot of people like extra speakers because it makes the music sound "richer" and "more speakers must be better", but in the end it just causes listener fatigue by scattering the detailed sound. Surround sound is different, it needs the zones, but this is just stereo L+R. Crossover and EQ everything as best you can, (and time align it if possible) and the overall sound quality will be better than with the extra rear speakers.

If you absolutely NEED sound from the back, keep the gain low and use them only for fill, maybe just enough to barely hear them. Dial back the high frequencies if possible to keep the detail and focus on the primary (front) drivers that are creating the sound stage.

Very well said! I never thought of it like that.

Sound deadening is definitely on my todo list. I've never actually had any before, but I've read nothing but good things. Will most probably go in when I add my speakers. Just in the doors should be fine yea?

The doors are the most important because they directly share the air space of the speakers. If you only plan to do a little bit, definitely focus here because this is the most sensetive area.

Other areas to look for would be any body panel that seems to rattle or resonate when you tap on it. Most of the interior panels will be relatively easy to pop loose to access the skin. The roof skin is a tricky one; it's exposed to the sun and the deadener can droop and sag from the heat, maybe leave it alone... For most of these noisy panels you only need to use a patch of deadener big enough to kill the resonation. You want a sort of dead thud when you tap it. For the doors, feel free to do as much as you like, you can even use some metal sheeting (like a punched mesh or something lightweight) to cover the openings in the inside door structure, and layer deadener over top of it. The more you add here the more acoustically solid the door will be. I've heard door speakers that have a REALLY impressive thump and midrange clarity that didn't exist before adding deadening. Check out a mobile audio site such as www.DIYmobileaudio.com for more ideas. Some of those guys are obsessive!

For installation, clean the surfaces well (finish with isopropyl alcohol) and use a roller or something to finish the application. Try to avoid air bubbles, its not critical but helps it last longer since the air will try to expand/contract from temp changes. Several small pieces are just as effective as one large piece. Overlapping and layering helps as well, and will improve the deadener effect. Aluminum tape is best for a long lasting finish over edges and other bits that need to be taped down. Overall it's not hard, just takes time.

Cool man! Thanks for the info. It really helped. I'll talk to my sound guy too about how much deadening I need (and where it should go). He'll be installing it too. He's done most of my sound stuff already (in previous cars) and I trust he'll do it properly.

So 4" speakers will fit in the rear without any modifications? I thought the stock speakers are 3.5" so I was limiting my search to only that size.

BTW, I was leaning towards these guys for 3.5" speakers
http://www.harmanaudio.com/search_br...002CFX&status=

I still might get them for the front.

Almost all of the time, a smaller speaker can be put into a larger hole with the right adapter. So if you want those, then go for it.

I can't believe that in this day and age, with globalisation being what it is, I STILL get this message from websites.


It's proxy time.

LOL

I have personally made custom brackets for 6x9s and it sucked, if you have never done it before don't its not worth it. Small speakers are just as good as large speakers except for the lower frequencies, you need a sub for that. Get speakers that fit the stock locations, just get high quality ones and for really good sound you will need a decent amp. Many ultra high end sound systems use smaller-ish speakers and they are always round. In either case use the stock speaker size.

Ok cheers. That put the nail in the coffin. 6x9s are being sold off.

Already got a nice mid-high end system (incl. sub and amps) waiting to be put in. It was just the 6x9s I was unsure about.

I just realised today that there's actually an empty hole for 3.5s in the front dash. (I think you guys in the States have have these included?) So I'll likely use the money to buy nice 3.5s to put in there.

The round design is for stiffness, as a stiffer cone will produce sound more accurately. A ovalized cone is more flexible, and can resonate and flex at certain frequencies, coloring the sound. A round cone is inherently stiffer, as the voice coil pushes/pulls the cone back and forth, the cone and surround are loaded evenly, meaning the entire cone shape does exactly what the voice coil is trying to do.

Yeah I've just learned this about the AU cars, that sucks. Well, not if you're ripping them all out anyways! The US does indeed come with the full 8 speaker set (dash tweeter, dash 3.5, door 6.5, and rear 4.

You don't necessarily need a 3.5 to go there, it could make for a lot of extra work. A good matched set of mid/tweet should be plenty, even for a loud, clean, high end setup. If you're using a group of three drivers, it gets a bit more complicated. That means either buy a processor to do all your crossover points and amp each driver individually, or buy a set of 3-way matched drivers that come with their own dedicated passive 3-way crossover unit (like the 2-way passive crossovers that come with most 2-way component sets).

Personally, I'm just doing a 6.5 in the door with some sound deadening, with the tweeter up top. I may do a recessed pod so the tweeter isn't buried, but we'll see what works best when I eventually get the car...