Probably Buying a Used BRZ Tomorrow and Looking for Input
 

Hey FRS/BRZ/86'ers! It's your biggest brother, BrettRS.



My girlfriend has been in love with y'alls little coupes since she saw one when I did an auto-X in my RS back in June 2016. It's been 4 years, we are still together, and I am ready to help her upgrade to her 'dream car'.


For better or worse, I am actively pursuing the lowest priced BRZFRS86 I can find and I have found one that I am very happy with the price on.



She wants an automatic, so that limits my choices, but I have found a 2013 pearl white BRZ with 98,800 miles on it with AT that is selling for $9800 firm.


We went to check it out yesterday and I was impressed with the condition of it, for the price. The interior is clean and the outside is in good shape for a 7 year-old vehicle. The car does not have any mods.



The engine is strong. I test drove it instead of my girlfriend, which I am glad I did. The only RWD car I have driven before is mid-engine, so the back wheels didn't break loose like they do on the BRZ. Lesson learned when she got squirrelly on me quickly at a stop light launch.



I played around with the paddle shift in sport mode without really understanding what I was doing, however the engine didn't seem to mind.



The engine has a strong, consistent idle. There is no ticking from the front end and the AC blows hard and cold. No fluids under the car other than water from the AC, following me pushing the car hard for 10 minutes on the test drive, with the AC on full blast and the windows open.



The trunk would not open (see, I read your New Member? Read this before posting! and saw it was a common problem), so I'll have to get that fixed to pass Maryland inspection, but the tires are newer Goodyear AS. I did notice a good bit of brake dust on the front rims -- probably pretty typical, just thought I would mention it. The driver's windows makes some noise going up, but I saw in the FAQ that you guys break your window motors in cold weather, so I'm assuming it is related to that. Aside from that, it's a pretty car and within my budget.



So, before I hand this guy $10,000, anything I need to try on the car or look out for? Are there any recalls that may not have been preformed? What's the 100k maintenance suggestions (the real ones from the forum)?


I'm pretty damn good working on cars, so I will be doing any repairs I can and I will be doing a bit of a tune-up when I buy it. I'm planing on doing the following:


1. Oil Change
2. Brake Fluid Change

3. New pads (& rotors, if needed)


Anything else I should add to that list at a car with 100k that's been taken to Jiffy Lube for oil changes for the past 3 years? Car just passed emissions in VA this week and passed inspection last year.



Thanks in advance guys! I'll add a photo reply below, but y'all already know what it do.

Photo attached maybe?

Check for the J02 valve spring recall. If it was done over 5000 miles ago, the engine is good. In short some cars' engines were badly sealed up after the recall and sealant can get into the oil pump pickup and starve the engine, then boom.
Failure typically happens within a couple hundred miles and pretty much always within 2000 miles. Again, if over 5000 miles have passed it's nothing to worry about.
More info HERE

You might need some new tail light gaskets if you get condensation in them.

Other than that these cars are really solid. Nice that it's completely stock, so no worries about botched mods.

Check if the valve-spring recall has been done if it needed it.

It takes 91-93 octane and synthetic 0w20 oil. Otherwise with 100k, brakes, belt and spark plugs. Maybe a coolant flush and diff fluid. Ive driven my 2013 from 16,000 to now 61,000 and had nothing fail.

Probably want to change the tranny fluid too.

Haven't figured out how to give thanks on the forum, but thanks Western and Yoshi! I asked about any recalls he's done, waiting to hear back.

Glad to hear that they are reliable...I drive an 87 Fiat and an RS, so I know nothing of reliability.

The thanks button appears after you make 10 posts I think.

Have you tried the physical key? If so then you have to fold down the seat to get in. Not hard to do.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=103348

Like any used vehicle I would bring it to a reputable shop for a full inspection out of your pocket and then if he wants 9800$ firm, offer 9500$ cash.

Like other members on the forum mentioned, I would change all the fluids and the spark plugs as well. Easier to keep track of maintenance when everything is new.

Based on that picture I would say the vehicle is in very good shape.

the recall should be through a dealer, so you should be able to call up the local subaru dealer to check the vin to see if it was first part of the recall(not all 2013's were recalled), and second if there is a record of it being performed.

Others may disagree but I highly suggest you get at least a least a 2014 and avoid the recall. Mileage doesn't seem to be a biggie tho and our cars are pretty reliable. I would just avoid the first model year if you could. Kind of a rule of thumb anyway for most cars.

Don't worry about the recall unless you're in California. There are a lot of other reasons not to get a 2013, but it boils down to creature comforts. If they hadn't said anything and never done the recall, 2013s would be perfect candidates and none of them would have valve spring issues. Suddenly it's a huge problem, with the only failures being the cars that get the work done.

My 2013 is the absolute worst case shit storm. It's a 2013 firestorm red FRS with a factory installed ugly clear bra, it is salvage title due to flood damage, it blew 3 engines from having the valve spring recall done. You know what? I love the thing. I turbo charged it and think it's better than 99% of other BRZ/FRS/86. Why? Because it never has let me down a single time in spite of all that nonsense. The engines failing were not the fault of the car. I drive the car like a monster (hillclimbs, midnight shenanigans, winter drifting) but change the oil on time, and guess what? It's perfect. I just have to sand down the rusty parts and repaint them once in a while

Easiest car I've ever owned to work on. Great aftermarket and parts bin availability. Looks amazing and even has ABS. It was my escape from the 80s.

Ok, I'm done. Tell us if you got it or not!

Hey guys thanks for the continued advice!



These aren't the most readily available cars in my area and this is the cheapest, non-salvage titled one that I could find by nearly $4,000.



The recall has not been done yet (and won't be done), so the valve spring issue should not crop up.



The owner was attempting to close his loan and get a clear title on Friday last week...waiting to hear from him today if the title is cleared and car is ready for pick-up...we shall see soon.

This. People on here a quick to dismiss the 13s and 14s to a certain extent. Point is that these cars are fairly rare and they don't pop up for sale very often. We don't all live in socal.

I was having a hell of time trying to find one in MI. Being a rust state, I wouldn’t consider any that weren’t stored in the winter. There went at least half of the few that do turn up for sale.

Ultimately, I went online and bought a salvage car. $2200 for a ~10k mile a year Texas car with light front damage. Bolted on a paint matching hood and fender, bumper support, headlights, steering wheel airbag, seatbelt, had the SRS module reset, and ordered a bumper (will need to paint; cousin owns a busy shop and it'll get paint for the cost of materials).

All in (including auction fees and shipping) I'll be into my car for $6-6500 by the time it's recertified for the road. Yes it's a salvage rebuild, no I don't care. The perfect car is the one that fits your budget/skill level.

I picked up the car this past Friday :) :) :)



There's a list of repairs / updates / rattles that I need to ask y'all about in more detail, but I will wait until I have all of my thoughts together to keep it organized.


Very excited and my girlfriend loves it, thanks again guys.

Congrats!

If you’re trying to find help in a specific issue, there’s a very good chance we’ve already figured it out and documented in the forum. That said, the Vbulletin search engine is crap, so you’ll never find it, so use google to search the site, like this:

If you’re looking for the rear deck rattle, Google this:

site:ft86club.com rear deck rattle

Congratulations to you and your girlfriend! It’s an awesome little car, and there are a lot of people that love the heck out of them. The rattles just add character. [emoji6] You may not be able to track them all down anyway. Some guys/gals have, but it’s not worth it IMO. They are a small sports car with a stiff chassis, rattles sort of come with the territory. Lol
Enjoy it and drive safely!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, what's the status on the car?

This!!!! If the recall was just done or not done yet, Walk away!

Silly. The failure is estimated to occur on like 1% of cars.
If everyone thinks like you, then the 2013 will be a deal of a lifetime.

Check for timing chain cover and left/right cam carrier oil leaks. Resealing cam carriers will require engine removal.

I thought that there will be photos. Congrats on your new car! Make sure to keep us posted with the ongoing modification.

Either he loves it so much he hasn't stopped driving, or a valve spring failed and he can't stop crying

Or the girlfriend took the car and ran?

She would only have to run if a valve spring failed. Otherwise she could drive.

Percentage is low but this is just simple risk management. Humans make mistakes. Anytime you work on a car your risk for failures/issues increases. The more in depth the work the more it increases. The failure rate on these engines is probably greater than on new engines.

Did he buy the car ?

Shiranai

I never did the valve spring recall work on my car. The dealer wanted a LOT more money because supercharger lol. They also hooped me on a starter motor replacement which in retrospect I could have done and also paid at least $300 less for the part from Subaru. (I caused the failure, seized belt from supercharger, weakened starter which failed a year later).
The valve springs actually failing is extremely rare. Probably more issues from improper replacements.

So, my never winter driven 2013 with 70K km (42K miles) must be worth spit. Good thing I will never sell it to fund another car purchase.

huh?

You know, wakaranai

Sorry guys, didn't know everyone was waiting for me to come back with some photos and an update! I'll provide one and also have a question if someone can help me...


QUESTION: can someone link me to a solid, known working remote start system for the 2013 BRZ with push-button start, please? Want to get one for my gf for Christmas.



Update:


We got the car just a few days before my GF's birthday, around July 13, while her sister and brother-in-law were down visiting from NY.



Paid $8,500 check and $1,200 cash for the BRZ...2013, white, heated seats/keyless entry/push-to-start (maybe those are trim options, maybe those are stock, idk)...


Managed to get an appointment at the MVA and got a temp registration and new title, eventually (after spending 8 hours in tag&titles the week prior, don't ask, Maryland MVA switched back-ends and it screwed up everything for everyone for a few weeks).



Failed inspection for a small exhaust issue (I had the shop repair this), rear-view mirror loose ( I replaced the mount to the windshield didn't really help, he still passed it the 2nd time), side marker light, and tag lights. I did the tag lights (upgrade to LED) no problem.



The passenger side marker was not working, so I replaced both with smoked LED style from Amazon. Unfortunately, the bumper sags like a worn-out T-Shirt, so the passenger side marker light had actually fallen out a few times since I replaced it and banged against the side of the car.



Last week, the car was due for an oil change anyways, so I got it up on my lift and did an oil change. I also removed and replaced all of the plastic screw rivets with brand new ones, including the ones within the bracket for the side marker light. I believe that replacing all of these rivets has given the bumper enough strength now to not pop that side marker light out (and maybe I got it to clip better with the straight on pressure while it was in the air, idk). I also got a ton of corrosion off the battery at the same time, not sure what was causing it, but it was some of the worst corrosion on a newer battery that I've ever seen. Checked the air filter too but was clean as a whistle.



When I got the car, I took out the factory head unit and replaced it with one that Crutchfields said would fit...it did not fit. I had to dremel out some of the top and bottom of the head unit housing for fitment. I also placed closed-cell foam around the outside of the head unit, to fill up some gaps on the side, since the replacement head-unit was not only taller than the stock unit, but also skinnier! That being said, I did a pretty bang-up job with the installation, and it looks really good with Google Maps showing and most of my dremel modifications being hid by either the head unit or by the foam.



I have not installed the rear-view camera from the head unit kit but I really need to, my driveway is like reason #1A on why a back-up cam is way way better than a rear view mirror (and if you disagree, it just means you haven't driven a car for very long with a back-up cam...way easier to see what's behind you when your 'eyes' are 10 feet behind where your head is).



I don't think I've done much else to the car so far. Resolved the trunk being locked issue (it was that button in the trunk...that's a weird button, btw)...GF drives it full time with the back seats folded flat, which is more practical anyways (although probably tougher to keep the interior warm during winter). Paddle shift works very well for a car with 100k miles, IMO. Would like to clean the fog off the headlights soon. Tires are still good, alignment is money.



PICS, ya filthy animals (hopefully they show, it is just showing as an attachment as I post this).

Nice!
My 2013 (with spring recall done) has been bullet proof. Not a single issue.



BTW, what button in the trunk?

Probably the release override (or whatever it's officially called) button.

might just be the lighting or part of the reason for the cheap price, but rear bumper looks like a different white

Sooo any recommendations on a remote start system that will work with the automatic with push button start.

I thought that there will be photos. Congrats on your new car! 9apps

Regards cartoon hd apk

trunk lid and spoiler look to match the bumper not the quarter also.