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Stock FA20 block - Force Induction
Hey guys, im new at the car scene and just wanted to be more mindful about what to expect if I turbocharge my fa20.
Its currently stock, of course I will upgrade internals and fuel system. My top top goal would be reaching 450-500 HP Now some people say a turbo kit could do it after upgrading the rods and trannies, but my main focus right now is getting force induction. What turbo kit do y’all recommend that in about half a year I could push my desired HP (After the upgrades)? Will the stock FA20 block hold this much HP? Or would I need a built forged engine? Also would appreciate some does and don’ts |
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You won't be able to buy a kit that will be safe today and make your goals next year.
Get the JDL turbo kit with a T3 manifold. This way at least you have a great reliable base platform, and the T3 sizes manifold will accommodate a turbo upgrade in the future that would meet your goals. I promise that you will not get 500WHP to last more than a few dyno pulls unless you put another $20,000 into the car on top of the turbo kit. SOmething more civil like 350WHP would be easily doable with the JDL kit. Hell, you could do that with stock block and maybe be ok for some time. |
lol
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So lets say Im planning on buying one of does crawford built FA20’s that do 500hp, would I be okay using the JDL kit now and then switching the block and putting the kit back on? Is that like a thing?
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These are discussed to infinity and beyond here. For 450-500 HP, don't waste your time and money with this car.
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So go all out or nothing...
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Buy some extra transmissions or be prepared to convert to a CD09.
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Damn thats a cheaper option than buying a built FA20, was it a joke or a real option?
Lol |
You can easily do 400-500whp reliably with a transmission that doesn't explode 4th gear for $15k in this car keeping the FA20. All the info is here if you research it.
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I'd just get a fast car instead.
Like mentioned, to make 500 whp reliably (god forbid you try to track it reliably) will cost a LOT of money. |
A fully built FA20 with a turbo on E85 and a CD009 trans swap should be pretty reliable at 400-430whp as a daily driver / hwy puller / canyon carver, but even with every supporting mod possible i would still turn it down to about 350-380whp for the track/autox, and even then its risky.
The built FA20, turbo, and trans swap could be done for maybe 15k$ if you use your block for the core get it built, and do all the installs and trans swap yourself. but you will still need driveshaft, and axles if you don't want to break your stock ones, and tires/wheels to actually put the power down. You'll probably want oil cooler, catch cans, and hood vents at minimum as well at that power level and with the heat from a turbo making 400+whp. It can add up to 25k$+ real quick. |
one thing to consider despite the hefty price tag after doing this, and the questionable reliability, at 480crank hp / 420whp, and minimal weight reduction to 2700lbs power to weight at the crank is 5.625.
This is a few years dated but, top 10 power to weight ratios under 100k$, don't expect it to be as fast as most of these though (better gearing, weight distribution, a lot more power in general which is more important then power to weight as MPH increases etc..) but it should be able to hang for a little bit with most of them maybe 40-130mph (if you can put the power down and hook) 2017 Dodge Viper SRT ($87,895) – 5.24 2017 Chevrolet Corvette Z06 ($79,450) – 5.42 2017 Chevrolet Camaro ZL1 ($61,140) – 5.97 2017 Dodge Challenger SRT Hellcat ($62,495) – 6.29 2017 Cadillac CTS-V ($85,595) – 6.47 2017 Dodge Charger SRT Hellcat ($65,945) – 6.57 2017 Chevrolet Corvette Z51 ($60,450) – 7.17 2017 Alfa Romeo Giulia Quadrifoglio ($72,000) – 7.53 2017 Mercedes-Benz AMG C63 ($65,200) – 7.59 2017 Lotus Evora 400 ($89,900) – 7.88 Heres under 50k$, should be faster then all of these no problem. (Although put 15k$ into any of these and its game over.) at 340 crank / 300 whp and 2700lbs PTWR is 7.95 and should hang with a 1SS or GT from a roll at least till around 40-120mph maybe 130mph 2017 Camaro 1SS ($36,905) – 8.1 2017 Ford Mustang GT ($32,920) – 8.5 2017 Camaro 1SS Convertible ($42,905) – 8.69 2017 Dodge Challenger R/T 392 ($37,995) – 8.73 2017 Ford Mustang GT Convertible ($42,440) – 8.79 2017 Dodge Charger R/T 392 ($39,995) – 9.07 2017 Mercedes-Benz AMG CLA ($49,950) – 9.2 2017 Mercedes-Benz GLA45 ($49,900) – 9.22 2017 Nissan 370Z Nismo (($41,990) – 9.54 2017 Chevrolet SS ($46,625) – 9.63 |
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With some upgrades the BRZ can be a track monster, but it's never going to be a killer on the drag strip. |
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I'd just get a different car if that HP was your goal. A waste of money IMO. It would be an insane car though....
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My question is, why do you want that much power? Potential reasons:
1) Hobby, you want to do it because this is your toy car, you want something unique, not your DD, and you're bored 2) You live in a completely flat area and the only way to get your thrills is straight line runs down the interstate, but you bought the wrong car. Also you live in NC, not Idaho, so there should be fun drives. 3) You want to be part of the import scene, and talk about car mods more than exploiting the capabilities of this car, maybe an occasional street race. All good, respect to others and their hobbies, just be safe on the roads I now have a Vortech supercharger on mine, making something meager, well under 300rwhp, and I can't drive it full out on the backroads here in CT. Just gets going too fast, with blind curves, bikers, walkers, etc., too dangerous. If you're planning on tracking the car (where you can potentially use that power), you'll need to spend a good amount of $$$ on mods to manage heat, traction, braking, etc. Depending on what you want to do and why, you might want to consider more reasonable goals. If you're option #2 where you can actually play with that much power on the street (relatively safely), you might be better off buying another car, especially if it's your only car. Nothing sucks more than having your only car blow up :) |
Go the Sikky LS3 route for 500hp. It would be cheaper in the long run..
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New to the car scene and want to get 500 HP out of a 2 liter engine?
:lol: Maybe you should spend a little more time "in the scene" and possibly reconsider. |
You know how many people hated on and doubted Jeff Bezos. This guy could be the Bezos of the 86. You never know. Dream big. Why settle for 500 out of a 2L go for 600. Don’t put limits on yourself or more importantly your car’s engine.
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James Martin from HRI tuning runs 550 hp fine.
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He's a great tuner, for sure. As was said earlier in this thread, it's easy to put a nice right angle triangle onto a graph and then never use most of that triangle. Really, how often can you use 550hp on this car without drag slicks or a street class 305 section width tire in the back? Driving a car that has 550hp is a much different story than using it. |
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I've been driving a boost frs for 2+ years and I would like even more power now. Idk I got too used to 300whp.
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I also have had my 86 fitted with a gtx2867r ext gate, 1000cc id, dw300c, 10psi. 320ish whp and 440nm with e85 Have been driving as daily and track hack for 40,000km (not Nana driving) It holds platform records at our local track and there is a 600wph ls3 86 thats not as quick. (Round the track) Trust me you can have reliable boosted power from the stock fa20, and I always want more power but 400-500 is unusable. It struggles to put it down 1st to 3rd from a start with 265/35/18s at my power Everything is possible but from a budget side 350 max is where you would push it. After that pour money into internals and axles possibly a gearbox . . 320-350 = 10k 350+ = 20-30k How much do you want to spend. Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk |
Also the reliability of your fa20 is heavily dependant on your tuner. And how far you want to push.
If you get an "off the shelf tune" most motors seem to go eventually If you have a decent tuner with a name they take pride in, they will spend the time and tailor to your vehicle specifically and all other factors eg your location come into play Sent from my SM-N975F using Tapatalk |
Cars with the best power to weight ratio for under 100k haha. Dude, if you want to go fast, buy a s1000rr or a zx10r for 15 grand and flame bugatti's. Stop trying to be fast. You're not. Just enjoy your car. Cars are fun.
S1000rr has a 1:1 power to weight. 200hp/200kg This is a bone stock s1000rr with an extreme rider mod. Someone who knows will notice the stock catalytic converter at 1:22 in front of the rear wheel down low, just under his foot. It's the big bright aluminum box, indicating it is a bone stock exhaust. He haven't even taken of the street mirrors for crying out loud. It's hard to express how slow a 500whp frs is. I just dont wanna see you be so let down if you are truly after speed. I dont know, maybe you already ride bikes, what do I know. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=boOnygO-ZWc&t=2s |
Get a Mustang
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https://twitter.com/justindchapman/s...175717376?s=20 |
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A Honda Valkrie, which was a barge of a cruiser (a cruiser version of the Goldwing), could do 0-60 in 3.4 seconds. |
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