DIY: Track Mode on 2013-2016 cars
 

Track mode on 2013-2016 DIY: We’re swapping the VSC module with a 2017-2020 unit. This gives us track mode and hill assist. WHY ARE WE DOING THIS? We’re nuts, that’s why. Track mode is a less aggressive version of sport mode on 2013-2016 cars, normal mode becomes a bit less intrusive as well. See Toyota’s info blurb about track mode in the 2017 cars:

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/atta...1&d=1540902934
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8a15474c1e.jpg


Disclaimer: perform this mod at your own and your car's risk, yadayada nobody on FT86club is responsible for any repercussions due to this mod being performed or attempted.

Original thread where @solidsnake11 did most of the legwork: LINK

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Tools and parts needed:

-2017-2018 VSC module (duh)
-1 zip tie
-Flathead screwdriver (small)
-Connector pin release tool: (Sewing needle set or small picks/pins works too)

-10mm hex socket
-External Torx sockets (4mm hex works too)
-Small ratchet driver with a few short extensions
-Small cutting tool

Helpful but not mandatory:
-Needle nose pliers

Step 1: Remove VSC module connector

Disconnect battery negative terminal. (10mm hex)

Undo the connector from the VSC module, there is a lever lock holding it on.

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Step 2: Repin the VSC module connector on 2013-2014 cars

2015-2016 cars, skip to step 3. Do not repin the connector! 15/16 cars are plug and play with the 17 module.

2013-2014 cars, let’s repin the connector.

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Looking at the pins, there is a pink lock holding all the pins in. To unlock it slide all 4 pink tabs to the side where the wiring comes out of the back of the connector.

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The backshell comes off by prying 4 tabs on the backshell itself. You can’t push the catch down, you have to pry the back shell up (blue highlighted section like my cartoon screwdriver shows below):


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Remove the black zip tie that wraps around the wire bundle.

Now we’re ready to disengage and pull pins 27 (pink) and 32 (white). Each pin has a release catch formed into the pin itself. There is a hole right next to the pin where the release is accessible:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...acaf1c10d6.jpg


The release tab is the same for all the pins in that region of the connector, but pins 14-36 don’t have the hole next to them. Instead it’s a U-shaped channel that serves the same purpose (see below). Release the pin by pushing a pin release tool (sewing needle or similar thin tool works as well) in the release hole as far as it’ll reasonably go. If using a needle use the blunt end, and try to find one that’s almost as thick as the height of the slot. Then pull on the wire on the backside. It’s tricky, but you shouldn’t need much force.
Image below shows where the release is for pin 32:

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Once those 2 pins are out, the hard part is done!

Remove the rubber plugs out of the back of the 8 and 9 locations. You can push them out through the front with a thin tool, or pull them out from the back with tiny pliers or a sharp angled pick.(no pins present in these slots, just the rubber plug)

Push the pins you pulled into the following locations:
-Pink wire (sport button) from 27 to 9
-White wire (FL wheel speed sensor) from 32 to 8.
You should feel a faint click, give the wire a very gentle tug to make sure it's seated all the way. Note, location 9 is marked ‘CLSE’ on most connectors.

Re-engage the pink lock, and put the backshell back on. Install a new zip tie where we removed it earlier.

Don't plug the connector into the VSC module yet since we're swapping that next.

Step 3: Swap VSC Module

Simply unbolt the VSC module from the aluminum ABS pump housing. Undo the 4 external torx bolts (4mm hex works, just be careful). You’ll need a small ratchet and maybe a short extension for the lower ones.

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Pull the module off, slide the new one on, snug the bolts back up.

Note: the picture below is to show the inside of both parts. You do not need to remove the aluminum housing from the car!
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...165924f12d.jpg

Connect harness back to VSC Module.

Reconnect battery.

Go for a drive. If you forgot to unplug the battery the ABS light will be on for ~half a mile.

Sport button now has to be held for a second or two where it used to be instant.


Reference info:
ALL ZENKI YEARS CONFIRMED WORKING :happyanim:

2013 Repin required
2014 Repin required
2015 Plug and play
2016 Plug and play

ABS pump assemblies/calibrations confirmed to have 2017 programming:
27536CA030
27536CA040
27536CA050
27536CA060
27536CA070


***Get a module from a car with the same transmission as yours*** MT modules only work in MT cars and AT modules only work in AT cars. Most eBay listings will tell you the specs of the donor vehicle.
Thank you @crabarts231 for confirming this!

***CHECK THE DATES ON THE NEW VSC MODULE ITSELF (black part). MAKE SURE THE YEAR MATCHES THE ABS PUMP YEAR*** Month and day don’t need to match. VSC module has 2 dates on it. The first ABS pump I bought had a 14-04-22 VSC module, presumably for a 2015. It worked fine with the repin but didn’t have the newer programming of course. That’s why everyone should make sure the year on the aluminum housing and the VSC module are the same. If my 2017 ABS pump had a 2015 module on it, maybe junkyards are mixing and matching parts.
See below:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...5a8168410d.jpg

2018 wiring diagram for reference

Trippinbillies track mode assessment, one of the more detailed ones on this forum:
Thanks @solidsnake11 @makinen @solidONE @anticubus @norcalpb @HSC @reh8388 @Trap63 and M60power

Great job!!

What is the benefit of doing this?

'17+ stability programming and track mode in a '13-16. Normal is less intrusive and allows a bit more yaw before reining you back in. Track mode replaces sport mode and allows extra slip, extra wheel speed difference, and lots more yaw before it steps in.

Layman's terms - Normal is more willing to give you a little sideways fun but you still won't spin out unless you're trying to. Track mode isn't going to keep you from spinning out if you don't know what you're doing, but it will help keep you from going past the limit of the chassis if you're pushing your own skills.

My colleague whom I mentioned in solidsnake11's thread did this job on MY15 but he didnot need to the pin relocation. Already same as MY17 format.

DIY: Track Mode on 2013-2016 cars
 

That actually makes sense. The first ABS pump I bought had a 14-04-22 VSC module, presumably for a 2015. It worked fine with the repin but didn’t have the newer programming of course. That’s why everyone should make sure the year on the aluminum housing and the VSC module are the same. My 2017 ABS pump had a 2015 module on it, maybe junkyards are mixing and matching parts.

Sounds like 2015-2016 cars should skip the repin, DIY updated. Thanks!

Wouldn’t 3 secs off mode help keep you from going past the limit of the chassis too? Only the peddle dance mode is completely switched off stability.

Correct, there is still some intervention, but it is much closer to traction off than the 2013-2016 programming.

thanks! now to find a module.

what a great mod and guide - well done!

You can drive the car pretty hard before intervention on the 17+ track mode.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show....php?p=2957629

Video in the first post. Embed not correct so you will have to copy it to browser.

How can you tell if the ABS pump is off a manual/auto vehicle? Would it be the pump # (i.e. 27536CA030? Also, would it matter if it the VSC module came off a BRZ or 86? Are there differences between the two and can you swap a 17MY Toyota module onto a 13MY BRZ?

Thanks so much for this info!

DIY: Track Mode on 2013-2016 cars
 

BRZ/86 doesn't matter. I swapped a 2019 86 module in my 2013 BRZ.

Manual vs Auto is trickier. We're not sure if it actually makes a difference -EDIT: WE FOUND OUT IT DOES , transmission of the donor cat must match!- Most eBay listings will tell you the specs of the donor vehicle.

Thanks everyone for contributing to this post. I didn't realize there was SUCH a difference between the early cars and later cars. I normally tell people to do the pedal dance, but may just be alright with them using the track mode in 17+ cars. The video from trippinbillies was helpful, and I know Chris is an excellent driver, as I drove with him regularly when he lived here. I trust his opinion. If I'm competing in a 17+ car I'd still do the pedal dance, but until reaching that level, it probably just doesn't really matter all that much. Thanks again.

Quoting Chris' post in the DIY as supplemental info

IIRC, 17+ don't need the pedal dance. You just hold the correct button, and achieve the same effect.

Please cite a source for this, i can't find anything corroborating that. all I can find is that pedal dance works the same on 17+ as previous years.

Should be Page 101 on the 2017 MY change pdf. Will edit in a sec to include pic.

Is the EBD interference still active? With the older cars on the long press it has e-diff and EBD interference. Need to trail brake the car into a fast corner to tell if it is acting up.

The EBD is the brake LSD in the pic above. To answer the question, no.


Edit: Unless you have an AT. Then it is still on.

I notice brake LSD comes on when I hit a curb and get a wheel airborne. The sensation I am talking about is trail braking and having it dump a bunch of bias to the rear.

I run a trac box now so I just run pedal dance at the flick of the switch. I am just curious if the long press on the 17+ does this too.

It would appear that I may be mistaken then. I'm going to have to follow that up with a resounding I don't know right now. I'll try to find an answer, if I can.

Thanks :cheers:

If anyone could confirm this I would appreciate it. I know a few people that would be interested in swapping over to this setup as opposed to doing a trac box. Seems like a good intermediate option.

Wow, Thanks for the wonderful DIY guide. I'm really interested in doing this mod now. Couple of questions about the cluster's lights. What light would turn on when hill assist is activated? For the Track mode, I would assume the VSC Sport light would go on?

The 2013-2016 cluster does not have a light for hill start. You’d have to test the hill start on a hill after activating it to confirm that it’s working. Or you can retrofit a facelift cluster, but that’s probably not worth it for just the hill start light.

Track mode lights up the same as the old VSC Sport mode.

Perfect!

Just curious: when you pull the pins for 8 and 9, were there wires connected to those pins originally, or were they just empty? If there were wires there, do you just tape them to the side, unused?

Thanks for this! Just ordered my newer VSC module from @417motoringparts

No wires present, just a rubber plug in the hole.

I got mine from 417motoring too. They're good, they sent it to me twice cause Fedex is useless and sent it back to them.

Thanks for the info.

Yes 417 is very cool, and fair pricing. Hope to get a red intake manifold from them when one is available.

Just for clarification:

If I touch the Traction Control button then the traction control turns off, so I can launch the car, do a burnout, spin the car, whatever. After like 35mph or something, the light turns back off, as traction control is reengaged. If I touch the VSC Sport then the VSC becomes less aggressive, which allows more slip. If I hold the Traction Control button down for 4+ seconds then the traction control and VSC turns off, but not as completely as it would if someone did the pedal dance. Correct?

Typically, I get in my car and immediately hold down the traction control button for 3-4 seconds until all the lights go on, so I can max hoon as I drive. I drive like this the majority of the time. If I am on the highway or something more long term then I will turn back on the nannies because there is no point in having them off. If it is damp out in the morning or at night when it is cool or a slight drizzle then I will turn on the VSC Sport button. If it is medium to heavy rain then I will leave all the nannies on.

Considering the above, it is worth doing this mode?

Yes I think so, because all levels of assist drop in every mode compared to 2013-2016.

What you describe (holding trac down for 4secs) is called mode 4, and the biggest difference with the 2017 programming in mode 4 is that the E-Diff is turned off (MT only).

What's the difference between that and the pedal dance?

After searching around a bit, I think the only difference between the 2 modes is the EBD is also turned off with the pedal dance.

Ordered a module off eBay and it should be in Thursday. Thanks for the write up!

That’s what I could gather too. I don’t trust the pedal dance for the sole reason that it can trigger ice mode.

Can confirm. Long press on a 17+ definitely disables everything
https://i.imgur.com/JACDCYC.jpg

That is not the issue with the long press. The long press on pre-17' cars will slide too. The issue is, trail braking causes the EBD to freak out on long press, and E-diff is still active causing it to grab one of the rear brakes, most notably if you get the inside tire airborne on a curb to engage the torsen diff.

I dont know what to tell you other than that I regularly jump curbs, get airborne, and trailbrake and no it does not intervene. This coincides with Subaru's documentation that it is all off.



EBD will in fact intervene if you are just in track mode, so perhaps you are confusing long press with track mode.

I have a 13', I don't have track mode.

Your example of a drift isn't the problem is all I am saying. Someone else has confirmed e-diff is off with a 17+ on long press. Still waiting on verification on trail braking.

So is this mode less intrusive than to 10 sec hold on the early models? I use that on the track if it's a little wet rather than pedal dance.