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Buying a used Fr-s, 86, or BRZ
Im planning to buy one of these cars used in the next week or so. I want to know what I should specifically look out for before saying take my money. Should I go towards the 86 or brz just cause the company itself it's still around? Would I get a better price if I get a 2013 model and they haven't sent it back yet due too the recall or just hey like a 15 or 16 model. Stick shift or automatic? Do different years have any huge differences besides like a touch screen? I've been looking into these cars for a few weeks now but I still have lots of questions. Plus, for my area im not looking to really spend any more that 17k max. Thanks for any help in advance and hope to join the club soon. [emoji111]
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There was a facelift in 2017, bottoms on the steering wheel, few other minor things, back up cameras. Different editions from both makes can come with brembos, if that's something u like, i dont have the brembos. The 13's had the throw out bearing issue, as well as the valve spring issue. Lots of controversy. I'd say do not get one that had the valve spring recall performed. I'd it's not broke, dont fix it. Lots of them failed after the recall was performed. Yes get manual transmish, if you dont know how, learn, it will take you 1 month. You will not regret buying a frs/brz. Sooo happy I didnt get a wrx
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Where in Cali are you? I'm actually selling my 2014 FR-S Monogram (6MT).
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$15k with stock wheels, Tein Flex Z coilovers, Whiteline rear LCA, genuine JDM TRD front lip and side skirts, genuine Toyota Nur Spec rear spat kit (also has middle "diffuser"), 3M 70% Crystalline tint on the door windows and 5% Color Stable in the back windows, genuine Toyota GT86 emblems front and rear, Blitz reusable hybrid cabin filter, 86 rubber floor mats, and backup camera added into where the factory one would have been. OR $18k with all mods minus LED bulbs. So that includes genuine Toyota clear side markers (will include VLEDs amber LEDs in it), both OEM Osram HID bulb and upgraded Osram HID bulbs, 17x9 ET35 limited edition hyper silver WedsSport TC105n wheels with 245/40/17 Continental all season tires and metal center caps (also doubles as hub centric rings), black Perrin silicone intake tube and K&N drop in filter, CF front strut bar, Nameless (that's the brand name) 5" mufflers axleback, and OFTv1 (I'll still have to unmarry it so buyer can control it). It has 56,9xx miles and is a 6-speed manual transmission. I'm the original owner with clean title on hand. Never smoked in (I don't smoke), never tracked/canyon carved, and no accidents. She was my daily driver for the first 3 years or so, and then she became a garage queen. I now only very occasionally drive her. Pics, and pretty much the build history can be seen in my FB album: https://www.facebook.com/lazandro.sa...3864368&type=3 |
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But yeah, to answer some of your questions, I believe in every model year, the manuals had a shorter final drive than the automatics, so the acceleration is a tad bit quicker. The kouki years (2017+) had some changes for the manual, so that slightly bumped power and torque, and I think they shortened the final drive even more, so again, slightly quicker acceleration. 2015 and up had the backup cameras, iirc. Each year, the FR-S/86 had its limited edition models (like my '14 monogram). Those basically had the BRZ limited features.
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Apologies if any of this is redundant:
*The 2013s have a pretty basic, non-touch head unit. In my opinion, it looks pretty awful. 2014+ has a unit that will work nicely with bluetooth phones. Android auto/Apple CarPlay upgrades are available around $400. *OFTEN SLEPT ON FACT: they added knee bolsters somewhere around 2014-2016 - my apologies for not knowing. If you're average height, these add a lot of comfort. There were also improvements in interior trim - kick panels, I believe? *There were suspension tweaks for the 2015MY - stiffer springs, more aggressive dampers. Noticeable? I'm not sure. *2015 also gets the shark-fin antenna. *Final drive went from 4.1 to 4.3 in 2017 MY - making acceleration a bit quicker (perhaps .5 seconds to 60 at best, with the newer cars getting to 60 around 6.5s as opposed to 6.8-7s). *2017+ gets a crinkle-red aluminum intake manifold with a slight redesign for 205hp versus outgoing FRS's 200. *Some will say the facelift 2017 Toyota models are a tad softer than the outgoing FRS. I drove both back to back and I'm not sure I noticed much. *2017+ gets full LED driving lights with optional fog lights. I find the fog lights helpful with the deer in my area; plus, they look slick. The LED lights are supposed to last around 10 years but currently cost $1,000 or so to replace as the entire assembly must be swapped should a bulb die. They are essentially improvements on the aftermarket pieces you'll see on older cars. A few notes: I'm not going to touch on known issues in older cars, because with your budget you should be able to get something around MY '16+ and have some money set aside for any issues. There are also countless threads and sources of documented issues with these cars. You're almost in the price range of having some remaining drivetrain warranty - 5 years or 60k miles IIRC. The speakers in all models are not great, but I did notice a difference when test driving my current 2019 versus the 2017 I was considering. That being said, they aren't as bad as many people seem to say. The transmission, engine, seat bolstering, steering wheel, overall dynamics, chassis and many other bits are largely the same in the full 8 year run of these cars. The GR86 is slated to come out in a year so you may save big money by waiting. Halo white is a cool color (I'm biased here). The TRD exhaust manages to actually drone worse than some aftermarket solutions and costs $1,100 as a dealer option. You may notice TRD lowering springs, Sachs dampers, TRD sway bars, or Brembo brakes as dealer options on any of these cars. There are subtle differences in the spoilers. ***The BRZ tends to have neutral balance of oversteer/understeer, the 86/FRS tends to have neutral oversteer. ***Get a manual! Having owned 3 "vintage" BMWs (2 E30s, one E28), an NB Miata (MY '99), and a B6 A4 (MY '04) these transmissions are beginner-friendly and extremely fun to row through. There is a clutch valve that eases hard shifts in some newer(?) models and these drivetrains can take a good bit of abuse. ***If you're buying 60k miles or up and not an intermediate mechanic, check to see if spark plugs have been done. This service is pricey due to the boxer engine's packaging. WOW that was long. I probably missed some things. Sorry for rambling and good luck! :lol: |
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*17+ gets the new manifold for MT only *GR86 is going to be expensive for quite a few years anyway, if it doesn't get canned. Don't wait if you are looking for a used car now. As for what to look for, just the usual used car stuff. If it has abnormally clean bits in an otherwise dirty engine bay, it could have been FI at one time, which is a red flag you should look into more. Also, I would avoid a FRS that has *recently* had valve spring recall work done (unless you get a real good deal and can afford a new engine afterwards), but BRZs should be ok for the most part. I think after 20k miles or something it should be fine either way. That's all I can think of for now. |
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Yes, I believe last-gen prices usually drop when the next-gen arrives; but, then again, the rumor mill is just that. Cheers. |
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Last gen prices will drop if the new gen is great. Last gen prices will stay about the same if the new one is about the same. Last gen prices will go up a bit if the new ones are crap. Only gen prices could go just about anyplace if there is no next gen. https://media1.tenor.com/images/cc4f...temid=14953893 |
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Let me think...... I got it..... ............. nope, lost it..... wait a minute, it's back, it's ...... Oh shite, it's gone again......... no wait, it's back..... Your telling us that your armrest thingy creaks... I suggest silicone spray.. |
@Tcoat laying the truth down here
After 2020 the 1st gen prices will do. something. We don't know what though, I wouldn't hold up buying one just to wait for that. |
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everyone always pushes for using credit unions. i'm a member of one. but they're not always able to come close to the apr's i've located elsewhere shopping around. |
Don't be overthinking this to the point of paralysis.
Buy a used BRZ for $15k. A nice one. Not modded. This is not a lifetime decision. Don't like it ? Sell it for $14k after a year. Rental cost. At your age, insurance is cheaper than you think. Just look for a clean used one. Any year is fine All the same. This is a driver's car. The only features you need are a tight steering wheel, stiff suspension, and 3 pedals BRZ kicks ass. Just do it. Clutch will be learned in 15 minutes. What is batshit crazy is dropping $35k on a wagon. $15k BRZ. You will get much of your money back if you sell it after a year. Very low risk decision. |
Get something that fits your budget. The mileage should rule the decision as well as who the previous owner was. A young hooner or a more mature gentleman that probably showed more respect to the car. The model years weren't that much different. Id just spend a couple hundred on a PPI and get what you want if it passes. The 13's with the valve spring issue if done correctly eliminates the issues with that MY. You can't go wrong with any 86 as long as you do your homework just like you would with any sports car. I have a '13 and have had zero problems with it and it's a wonderful car on both street and track.
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how can one tell if a car was owned by an older but immature gentleman?
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do they still print those?
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If you plan on modifying the car (mostly appearance wise) then go for the pre 2017+ facelift as there are lots of options to choose from compared the newer look.
As for your price range, I purchased a 2016, pre facelift 86 with only 17k miles for 18.5k used- and that was from a Toyota dealer so naturally a little more expensive. So for your budget you should be able to get something decent. I'd aim for a 2015-2016 model with under 25k miles for your 17k budget. I'd expect the price may also drop in the next year with the 2021 Toyota 86 release |
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Buy CPO. Bought my third 86 (brz this time) cpo with 61k miles with 7/100k cpo warranty for $15k. Still stock and everyday I hope the engine blows so they can put a lower mileage one lol.
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This is simple to me. If you want to mod it buy the least expensive FRS you can that has no rust of damage. You can check out the issues the early cars had in the maintenance section. Don't buy a car that fits into the recall because state law in Cali will force you to destroy your car.
If you want to keep it stock buy the best newest car you can find. |
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All depends on your budget. |
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Without doing a PPI, you can’t tell how bad an engine or transmission might be. A little rust is easily fixed compared to engine or tranny issues. Suspension, brakes are also easily upgraded and places most people want to mod. Interior or cosmetic things are also personal and places to not worry about cause they are easily modded.
I think of it like buying an old Porsche 911. Find a car where engine and tranny are good and reliable. The rest of the car can be fixed relatively cheap compared to engine/tranny issues. Obviously, you don’t want a rust bucket, but some of these other areas are easy fun fixes. I mean why pay for perfect new stock brakes if you plan on getting a BBK. It might be worth to do some planning on what you want to do before you buy a specific car. For example, if you want to do a swap or a built engine, you might be better off buying a car with a blown engine in reasonable shape then a perfectly new engine. |
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Or should buy a nice rebuilt example, of which we have some! haha |
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