No Communication!! ECU/ECM/PCM/BCM
 

So I have a 2013 Scion Frs boosted. I recently had a mishap with installing subs. As i had everything all set up and turned around to look at my radio it was off. my initial thought was that i need to turn my car on to get the radio to turn back on but sure enough as soon as i went to turn the key to start nothing happened. I began to diagnose the problem. The Accessories on the dash were flickering so i decided to just get a new battery (needed a new one anyhow). It stopped the flickering of the accessories lights on the dash but still would not start my car. So i moved onto thinking its either the starter or ignition switch. I Jumped started my starter and sure enough it was not engaging. so i went to autozone and got a brand new starter. After installing the new starter, i attempted to start the car again... nothing happened. So i went out and jumped the new starter. IT ENGAGED finally and started my car up! However, this was the only way of turning on the car as well as roll start. So, my next step was the ignition switch. I replaced it and nothing happened. After this i used a volt meter to send power to the from the ignition switch to the starter. which was working for a awhile but somehow in the process it stopped working. it would do nothing (which makes me think i locked up my car somehow with immobilizer) however i still dont know. i went out to try and jump the starter and it just sat there and cranked the engine. NO SPARK i assume. i have done the whole computer reset method by holding both positive and negative on battery together and i have done the ECU reset by putting a pin in pin 4 and 13 or whatever it is for 30 minutes... nothing. I took it to the dealership and they have no idea all they want to do is throw parts at it. They wanted me to replace the main body ECU but said they dont know for sure if that would fix it. I looked at my ECM motherboard and everything looks fine. Next step for me is to take it to Dynosty down in Kentucky and have them work on it. the last thing i have done here is used my ECUTEK tuner to check my DTC codes. this is what it shows and its all a loss of communication so some how some where something is not talking to each other. something is fried. I am no professional when it comes to this stuff and i thought a could see if you guys would know or have had personal experiences with these problems.

check yo grounds
check yo fuses

Reading your post... hurts...

As you were installing audio, your car stopped working, INSTEAD OF CHECKING WHAT YOU HAD DONE, you threw parts at it, that didn't work so you jumped stuff around to make it go until that stopped working.

I... have no words... I usually try to be helpful when I post, but I can't even. I feel like putting my head in the microwave.

For one I did not just throw parts at the car. You obviously did not read what I posted. Like I said the battery needed replaced it was a given and also my starter was bad too but it still didn’t fix the problem at hand. Please read before posting silly comments. I have as well checked my ground and all my fuses have been checked and accounted for. I even stated how the dealership wanted to throw parts at the car and I wasn’t about to let that happen lol. Just please read before commenting.

First off, Glock_86, welcome to our forum - :clap:

Second off, please don't take your frustration out on ol @RZNT4R. I think you just overloaded his circuits, he is quite knowledgeable and usually is helpful.

Thirdly, although it seems you might have complicated the situation, I would suggest (as RZNT4R suggested) that you go back to where you were when you were installing the subs and see if what you did could have started your series of problems.

I do hope you get it sorted out.

:)

oh no frustration. There’s just no reason for comments like that. And thank you. I’ve actually been taking my time and Been very patient with this issue. Tomorrow I’m going to look through the main body ECU, PCM. I will let you all know how this goes.

Also I would like to mention how awesome it is to get feedback so quick from a forum. I usually have to wait a week or so before hearing anything back in other forums! So I’m glad to be apart of this one! Thanks!

If ecutek can read the vin amd ecu calibration id amd error codes then its talking to the ecu , well the engine ecu anyway

The main body ecu unot is not keyed to security so you can jist replace it if you think thats issue, jist get one from wreckers


But first clear the dtc codes and see which ones return.


Whwn you clear codes note any modules thtat ecutek says it cannot communicate with

Note if your manual ot wont dind auto trans computer so thats ok

Okay I will do this but I need to know which is my main body ECU. Kinda new to this whole thing. Like they don’t really give me a good amount of information on the internet to know which one is The Main body ECU or ECM or BCM and what not. Could you show me a picture of the main body ECU your wanting me to replace

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8374


Manuals above should help


Also here are some pictures of the body control from guy fixing one after problem, but yours is likely different issue


https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59084

Okay so some steps forward here, i checked my main body ecu everything checks out motherboard looks good when I had it out I checked the fuses and I found that am1 was relocated by mistake the controls my accessories,ign,and starter. Guess I did that when I was checking fuses. Anyhow, the car still does not start but my accessories work and there is a click noise every time I move the key to start from the main body fuse box inside. Not sure if that’s a normal thing when turning the key to start or not just trying to eliminate things.

yourpostsaresohardtoreaditshardtomakeanysenseoutof anyofit.

Could you explain? Instead of being irrelevant. I’m trying to get an answer on what I’m dealing with as of right now. Again the question is, is the the click a normal thing when turning the ignition is turned to start position. The click is coming from main body ecu fuse box.

I think my assessment is on point.

I think you threw parts at a car that has a bad ground.

Even now, you're tearing into the Main Body ECU... For what reason? Someone on the internet told you? That's a terrible reason, what logical flow led you to that component? What test did you do? What role does that component play in the starting system, and are the symptoms you see, the measurements you take, even compatible with that conclusion?

Alright, well I’ll take your “advice” and look for these bad grounds you speak of... I wouldn’t know what would be a bad ground since the only things that were replaced were the battery and starter... that clearly needed to be replaced because I bench tested both of these items. “Not throwing parts at the vehicle” I understand your trying to make a point.

I should just give this car to you so you can professional diagnose the issue. The reason I’m coming on here is to ask question, see if people are willing to help me with finding out the issue, and go from there... not to see a meaningless comment that is harassing me about the way I’m going about diagnosing the issue at hand. You could atleast give some tips but of course what can I expect out of a forum... like come on...

Look, make it easy. do you have booster cables?

If yes, just put the black clamp on the engine block and the other black clamp directly on the battery negative, that's a simple test anyone can do, and a starter clicking on but not turning the engine over is a very good hint.

Cars typically don't have 5 things go wrong at once unless you drink 5 red bulls and start poking things with a screwdriver. The dash flickering was hint 1, you changed the battery and it stopped flickering, you touched or moved something, but the ground was still resistive, the starter was clicking on but not turning the engine over, that was hint 2, you started changing stuff willy nilly like the ignition switch and poking at the main body ECU which isn't involved in the starting system (according to the OEM wiring diagram in front of me now). 4 things going wrong at once is hint #12825 that you're on the wrong track.

That the dealer tried to throw parts at it is expected, it's a dealer, THEY SUCK SHIT at diagnostic, even more when it's caused by human intervention. You never EVER bring a car in for diagnostics at the dealer unless you know that poor helpless tech has a TSB or recall to steer him right, because without that, they throw parts at problem.

Oh, also, never check a strting system with a voltmeter. It's a high amp circuit, even a bad ground will show 12V on a voltmeter. The GOOD way to check high amp circuits is with a 55W headlight bulb as a test lamp. A bad frame ground on a GMC Savana won't let the fuel pump run, it happens all the time. a voltmeter will show 12V in the pump connector, a regular test light will light up bright as day, but the truck won't run. You have to load a circuit to find out the truth.

ok, i'll play nice.

where's your amp ground located?

Okay tomorrow I’m going to look at grounds. May have something to do with my starter negative wire that mounts into my engine.

Relay?

Could be gunna check tomorrow

I had the same thing on a civic just today, ended up needing to tighten the positive on my starter and the ground cable that goes from battery to body

exactly why i asked where his sub amp ground is..

but he's too busy dodging the questions.

I think I would be more interested in finding out where he connected his +12V power wire for his amplifier that he installed and how he ran it from the engine bay through the firewall and back to the trunk. This bit of information would tell me a lot.

Maybe he can post some pictures of his electrical connections?

agreed.

but when he posts a massive block of text and starts throwing parts at it, it's best to start simply.

;)

yeah you right soundman! block quotes are annoying. And i understand where you guys are coming from.
I fixed my problem. Turns out half the ECU was fried. Replaced it with a new one yesterday and got techstream, so i registered the VIN. Everything works now. Thank you for "some" of your guy's help!
"the symptoms you see, the measurements you take, even compatible with that conclusion?" lol!

That's wild. How the hell did you fry half of it jeez


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oh hey fixed the problem... you can "throw" your comments elsewhere my dude. I understand that i had huge block quotes. but next time dont be an ass to someone who is just trying to figure out whats wrong with there car. quick tips... thats what these forums are for... not to be an smart ass. :cheers:

I Was "Cracking shit open" "throwing parts at it" "ON 4 can of redbull" you know the typical shit.. :barf:

No Communication!! ECU/ECM/PCM/BCM
 

Ayo, some people here have no chill. Glad you got it fixed! How much was your New ECU?


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Welp, Glock_86, sure am glad you got your car fixed - :thumbsup:

As a learning point for the rest of us, how do you reckon the ECU fried half of itself?

no, that's literally the only reason i'm here!