Another ACE headers issue
 

MY18 BRZ with less than 25000kms, fitted recently ACE A350 headers and Berk catted frontpipe.
I adjusted the aluminum under-tray with a hammer but after few kms of driving I realized headers rub against the subframe when I turn on the engine (engine moves slightly to the right side), when I accelerate from stop, and at high speed left corners.
I think also overpipe rubs the front sway bar, but may be is my idea as the space between those two was no more than 1cm, can't check it now due to covid19 lockdown.

My question is are the STI engine mounts and Whiteline gearbox insert enough to solve the subframe (and overpipe) rubbing problem or should I buy harder mounts or what else?

A shop told me that the STi mounts actually lower the engine slightly. Not sure if that's true or not but it could make the problem worse.

I'm also running the A350 and have the STi mounts sitting on the shelf. I had to hammer the engine cover in a few spots to stop the runners buzzing on it.

It is really unfortunate that the headers seem to have a number of design flaws despite the price point and performance advantages. I've had a bunch of issues with the 4-2 OP flange bolts coming loose and disconnecting on track. And although it seems not everyone has the issue—which already raises eyebrows in my book—the requirement to basically destroy your engine cover to make them fit seems a bit silly.

If they weren't so awesome I'd have chucked them long ago :D

STi mounts and banging two spots on the engine tray flat = no rattling whatsoever.

I didn't have any issues with mine, but I also have the CS400 and the Beatrush under panel. My only issue with the whole design is the 4-2 over pipe design. It was such a pain to tighten the bolts.

I'd anything the sti mounts should raise the engine a little more than stock.

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They recommend stiffer engine mounts with the ace. Sti should be the same height as the standard. It still might require banging out some of the engine tray.

I'd prefer the STI mounts in every case due to OEM quality and minimal NVH increase, my questioning is if they are hard enough to minimize engine movement or the ACE need harder mounts like Perrin and Cusco.
But as most of you use STI mounts with the A350 they will be Ok!

By the way are TRD and STI engine mounts the same exactly product made by Subaru, it's easier for me to find the TRD ones due to covid19 lockdown?

I'm running ACE350 with stock engine mounts and have no rubbing. I did hammer out the skid plate though. Where exactly are you getting the rubbing on the headers?

Overpipe to subframe...at least, I have to check also the connection overpipe to frontpipe as the rubbing comes somewhere there, I did hammer the skid plate too!

No issues running Ace and Sti mounts. Other than clearancing the cover.

Looking forward to these headers too. Regarding hammering the skidplate, do you have just to flatten the bumps or do you have to bend it?



They are exactly the same.

I just flatten the bumps in a way they became the opposite direction dents

I have just installed Perrin mounts with Ace headers. Havent driven yet as I still have car on jackstands for other projects. But I will say I didn't have to remove the headers to install on my car, just jacked up the motor from the oil pan. I did remove the bolt holding the front pipe to the trans mount. Stock ones right side came out the front, left side came out the rear. Im going to say fairly easy and can be done in your driveway
https://i.imgur.com/P9BylGt.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/zoyVGH8.jpg

Plus 2lbs lighter off the front of the car!
https://i.imgur.com/zGiUFp1.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/sEN6JiZ.jpg

Oh and I also used silicone glue to glue down thick washers to the skid plate as spacers. I believe there were 8 total main mounting bolts. This pushed the plate down a few more mm's

There’s only room for one header. That’s likely your issue.

Can't wait for a review on these.

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I had similar issues with mine touching the under tray and sub frame under certain conditions very similar to yours. After hammering a little bit the under tray it stopped touching there, but still on the sub frame. Later on I found out (going back to stock front and mid pipe) that my custom exhaust was too heavy and contributing in the engine shifting more when cornering (specially) to the left. After swapping my custom front pipe and mid pipe for the OEM ones I stopped having rubbing issues with my Ace350.

Maybe you catted Berk front pipe is a bit heavy? or you mounts are about to go?

Hmmmm...this was in my mind, to gut and fit the OEM frontpipe in place of the Berk HFC frontpipe, exhaust flow and AFR will not change at all!

It's 100% because you have mounted more than one header.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b6ea4b5add.jpg

OP and title make reference to more than one header, but you think I'M high?

If I wear pants, does that mean more than one pair?

It means precicely one pair, and I'll just ask if you know what the word "pair" means?

You are wearing more than one pant.
You are wearing two pants. One pair of pants.

This is a header.
https://images.app.goo.gl/YnCdsxGHwF8XE7Ev5

This is a pair of headers.
https://images.app.goo.gl/87YmjXz6KoKR1yKa6
Class dismissed.

Pot-Pots

The joke was along with your point of header and headers :iono:

In Soviet Russia, pots joke smoke you.

Sorry to hijack, but I have a follow up question on the Ace header:

Has anyone found a better solution for the 3 bolts holding the 4-2 manifold to overpipe flange together? I've probably lost a half dozen of those nuts/bolts in under a year and no matter what I do, they seem to come undone under track conditions.

Grabbed an image from the install instructions for reference:

https://i.imgur.com/B8uYDVj.png

Preferably stainless. Do not reuse, replace if removed and use anti-seize on install.

Probably not the right thread, just an example. Often called a top lock or crimp lock.

https://www.mcmaster.com/93795a230

Yeah mine became corroded get some stainless ones

I don't know if this helps you but as I bought a new set of ACE nuts/bolts the nuts are different from the past, probably copper alloy, as they are bronze colored.
May be a set of new nuts and use of washers or are the bolts that come loose and not the nuts in your case?
https://dqzrr9k4bjpzk.cloudfront.net...1031667481.jpg

could try a lock washer or Ultra High Temperature Threadlocker Blue should keep them from rattling off.

Just wanted to chime in with issues as well. Lots of buzzing on stock engine mounts and even worse on Perrin engine mounts. Lost several bolts due to heat cycling. Flanges have warped and had to resurface flat. The flanges at the head locations don't match up to the studs and required blunt force to fit. Overall, these things aren't even worth half of what I paid for them and are a huge pain in the ass.

@mistople you can also try a longer bolt and double nutting. Might be easier to find the hardware to do that.

Been running ace header over 2 years with zero issues or lost/backed out bolts. didnt need to use any loctite or lock washers or anything special either, although those could help if its an on going issue.
I had buzzing at first before i hammered out the skid plate. some people need to do it in 2 spots, 1 spot is less obvious then the other.

Also are people undoing every bolt down to at least the FP to cat back, and then installing/torquing down all the bolts starting at the block and working your way back to the catback? this should keep everything cinched up and pulled into the engine, if you torque bolts starting at the other end it will be pulling away from the engine, potentially adding different stresses, or misalignmenst, could be the cause of bolts backing out and or buzzing/noises, welds cracking etc...

I can't believe all of the issues everyone is having with a $2000 header. When you pay that much you would not expect fitment issues or bolts coming loose.

I've only heard a handful of complaints :iono: Whats this everyone?

how much of this is install error? wrong torque specs? buying used products and reusing old bolts and/or gaskets? not re-torquing after heat cycle?

as far as fitment goes, the only "fitment" issue is with contact with the skid plate, and that is not a flaw in the product, but a limitation to the possible designs, meaning in order to have the optimal design it is a necessary evil, and a very minor, free to fix issue. Otherwise the vast majority of people have had no issues or complaints.

also my ace 250 header was 1350$ brand new shipped from a vendor (no discount/sale price), and 350 type As are about 1700$, back when more vendors stocked them you could get them for 1500$ when they had their annual sales. So not really close to 2000$

I am not complaining but I have rubbing issues with the subframe, this is serious issue as I have to buy harder engine mounts and gearbox mount insert.
I adjusted the skid plate, needs some more hammering probably as my A350 are second hand, but the subframe issue IS ridiculous at least for me it adds ~250-300$ above the already expensive headers!