2013 FRS replacement engine
 

Need a replacement engine as mine just spun a bearing.

What I know is that the BRZ and FRS are exactly the same engine and will directly bolt in to either cars. Can some one confirm this?

My car is a 2013 FRS. I am trying to find a newer model engine, a 2015 or 2016. What I couldnt get info is if those years are direct replacement to my car. Would anyone know? I know that 2017 and up, one would need to do swap over alot of components so I am staying away from those.

I am considering doing the engine swap myself and been watching a lot of videos of people who has pulled the engine. I would assume that the AC line does not have to be disconnected (which I prefer). I am just not sure of this since I think I was only able to watch 1 video but it involved min. of 3 guys (2 at the motor and 1 holding on to the compressor) where the AC lines can easily be seen as being still connected. As for the other videos, there it wasn't clear weather they disconnected them and only that the copressor was on the side. An obviously, there are videos who straight up disconnects the lines. Is it really difficult to do by oneself without disconnecting them?

Very difficult to do without removing the A/C lines but could possibly be done. I've never tried it...

A 2016 engine will work, plug & play. No sensor swapping needed as long as you are using the 2016 engine harness in the 2013. You would only need to swap sensors if you were still using the 2013 engine harness.

How about a 2015 engine?

If you are using a complete engine, 2013-2016 will work as a drop in replacement. Only differences are between AT and MT versions.

Thanks Opie!

trying to get a 2015-2016 is proving to be difficult to find that is fairly priced. I am trying to avoid the 2013 model due to the valve spring issue/recall. Is the 2014 engine know for certain issues like the valve spring recall on the 2013?

Anyone know?

Sometime in 2014 they revised the coilpacks and the associated harness (which would be my prime reason for not getting a 2013 engine). Other than that I don't know. 2013 is the only year that really seems to have any large issues

Thanks for the input Darkpira7e. I thought that the coilpacks and harness were updated on the 2015 and 2016. So some 2014s got them? how can I check/verify this on a used engine?

I guess my memory failed me. New coilpacks were 2015+, sorry!

Not a problem. Thanks Darkpira7e!

Is there a marking on the engine that would indicate the year model that it is coming from? If there aren't any, how is one able to tell if it is a 2015/2016 engine?

If you ask the seller for the VIN, you can easily identify it that way.

Yes that may be an option but the engines that I am finding are from wreckers / salvage places who have already pulled the engine from the car and they can probably give me a VIN that I will have no way of verifying if it really came form a certain vehicle. If it was a private seller then that would definitely work.

Doesn't each engine have an ID plate on the front?

The VIN is actually on the engine, its on a metal plaque on the passenger side of the motor

This is the information that I had asked and been looking for. Thanks Decimus!

No problem, i recently swapped a 16 BRZ motor into my 13 FRS too so if you have any questions ill try my best to help

Will do Decimus!Thanks!

Is the $600 upcharge from a 2014 used engine to a 2015/2016 engine worth it to get the upgraded to the coilpacks and wiring harness? What was "upgraded" to said coilpacks and wiring harness anyways?

Started draining the oil and coolant, removing bolts and nuts, and disconnecting wires and hoses. I couldn't remove the fuel lines as I was trying the DIY version I saw in some videos how it is done but couldn't take them off. Seems like I will have to buy the fuel disconnect tool.

My car is automatic and I would have to remove the torque converter bolts. The crank normally rotates clockwise, right? need to make sure of it as I would have to hold the crank in place when I loosen the bolts to the torque converter. I wouldn't want to rotate the crank the opposite direction since I think it would cause a problem.

AST's Subaru fuel line disconnect tool #8028. Makes it super easy on this car, especially that line that has that hard 90 bend right before the fitting.

Where do you connect attach the chain to hoist the engine? I know there is a hook at the rear but I am unsure where to attach at the front portion of the engine

For the headers, can I get away with just removing the bolts where it connects to the bottom of the engine? basically just leaving it connected to the overpipe?

Anyone know why for automatic vehicles the sway bar link needs to be removed (which i believe is just 1 out of 2 of the link ends)?

Do you or anyone know who sells this? it would be better if it would be somewhere in Canada.

While we are on this topic, why not try and swap in a 2017+ engine with the red manifold? What does it take to get the newer engines running in a 1st gen car?

Subaru special tool threads into the block right next to the A/C compressor. It's basically a big steel hook. It gives you the second lifting point for the hoist.

Yes, just be sure to disconnect and remove the harnesses for the O2 & A/F

No idea why you would need to touch that at all.





2013-2016 are direct, plug and play, swaps. 2017 and newer have differences that make the swap more difficult.

It is still possible though, right? What else needs to swapped, the ECU?

It is possible, there is a thread on here somewhere that talks about it.

I didn't consider a 2017+ engine as the swap is too involved. I want to keep it simple as this will be my first ever swap.

So I don't have the Subaru tool. No alternate attachment point/location?

Yeah, I did find it odd that the manual mentions for the sway bar link needs to be disconnected.

https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-48ae...mages/8028.png




I had my local snap-on truck guy grab one for me. Can't speak for in CA but, it is on Amazon. It is also included in AST's 10pc set #1018.

You can be creative :) If you take the belt off, and the top idler pulley you can use the idler pulley bolt through a chain there

Yeah after looking it up it doesn't really seem to be feasible to swap a 2017+ engine into a first gen chassis.

Will see what I can use when I am at that point. Thanks Opie!

My engine had just arrived. Looking towards the front of the engine the camshaft timing oil control valve sensor bank 1 exhaust side lower left side (passenger side of the vehicle) broke is the one on the lower left side (passenger side of the vehicle). Anyone know if a 2013 cam sensor can be used with my 2016 replacement engine?

http://image.slidesharecdn.com/2012b...?cb=1361793330

grabbed this photo from someone who shared here and is the same part that I am asking about
http://i.groupme.com/867x578.png.30d...e516f51ec94971

Have the replacement engine installed. Just have to install the torque converter bolts tomorrow and fill the oil and coolant.

How do you prime the oil for an automatic engine?

Start it with the coil packs disconnected?

Learned a couple of things during the replacement of my engine. Haven't tried starting it yet as I need more coolant. I thought that 1 jug is enough but it wasn't so have to buy another one.

For removal of the fuel line and without using an actual proper fuel disconnect tool, using zipties worked extremely well. Didn't have to struggle for the disconnection.

And yes, the disconnection of the sway bar links as mentioned in the engine removal procedure for an automatic car is not needed.

Thought that I would share some of the above for others that will be doing their first time engine replacement.

Could possibly be an idea. But I was thinking of having to remove the fuse or relay for the ignition system and fuel pump before attempting to crank so I can build up oil pressure before attempting to start the car. Most of videos I've seen are for manual cars so I assume that there is a slight difference on how to prime an automatic vehicle.