Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB

Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/index.php)
-   Scion FR-S / Toyota 86 GT86 General Forum (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=2)
-   -   My RPMs have been idling at 500 (https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=138910)

Kaily 02-11-2020 12:30 AM

My RPMs have been idling at 500
 
I've had my FRS since 2014 and my RPMs have always idled between 1000 and 2500 when I'm at a stop. Recently its been at 500 and the car shakes as if its about to stall.
I recently installed the Airlift 3p and installed new studs all the way around, with school and clinicals I didn't drive my car for about a week and a half while everything was slowly installed. Yesterday I took my car for a drive, I turned the car on and the ABS light was on, as well as check engine and traction lights. I disconnected the battery for about 10 minutes but nothing changed. I took it for a drive and the brakes felt normal. I couldn't get above 4000 RPMS in first and second gear. Autozone pulled the codes and the only one showing was the ABS sensor.
Then as I was in the Walmart parking lot, I came to a stop and the car just shut off. It turned back on without any trouble. Today I started the car up after going to visit my mom and it had a little bit of trouble starting, but that might be because it sat in the cold weather for a bit.
Does anyone have any words of wisdom or advice here? I'm not a pro at this stuff and I'm at a loss here. I don't want to drive my car to school in fear it'll stall again.

p1l0t 02-11-2020 12:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kaily (Post 3298112)
I've had my FRS since 2014 and my RPMs have always idled between 1000 and 2500 when I'm at a stop. Recently its been at 500 and the car shakes as if its about to stall.

I recently installed the Airlift 3p and installed new studs all the way around, with school and clinicals I didn't drive my car for about a week and a half while everything was slowly installed. Yesterday I took my car for a drive, I turned the car on and the ABS light was on, as well as check engine and traction lights. I disconnected the battery for about 10 minutes but nothing changed. I took it for a drive and the brakes felt normal. I couldn't get above 4000 RPMS in first and second gear. Autozone pulled the codes and the only one showing was the ABS sensor.

Then as I was in the Walmart parking lot, I came to a stop and the car just shut off. It turned back on without any trouble. Today I started the car up after going to visit my mom and it had a little bit of trouble starting, but that might be because it sat in the cold weather for a bit.

Does anyone have any words of wisdom or advice here? I'm not a pro at this stuff and I'm at a loss here. I don't want to drive my car to school in fear it'll stall again.

Yeah for one buy a cheap bluetooth OBD-II scanner and the Torque Pro app so you can scan codes yourself. The scanner is $20 and the app is $5. Also if you really aren't getting CEL lights at all and it's idling like that I would check your air filter and run a bottle of fuel injector cleaner the next time you go to fill it with gas. If that doesn't work (fuel injector cleaner takes almost burning that entire tank of gas you added it to work) then maybe spark plugs. I have a feeling though if I had my scanner and hooked it up to your car I would get a code off it. Maybe Autozone couldn't read it because you reset it by unplugging the battery? I'm tired of reading guys doing this. Read the dang code first and if you had a scanner you could erase it with the scanner instead of unplugging your battery. You can even email it to yourself! It makes diagnosis so much easier. Modern cars have a computer to tell you what is wrong with it and you go erasing that info..

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

humfrz 02-11-2020 01:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kaily (Post 3298112)
I've had my FRS since 2014 …


Does anyone have any words of wisdom or advice here? I'm not a pro at this stuff and I'm at a loss here. I don't want to drive my car to school in fear it'll stall again.

Hi Kaily.

Too bad your car is acting up - :(

I recommend that you take your car into a shop (or dealer) and have them figure out what's wrong with it and fix it.


pa-pa humfrz

milanojess 02-11-2020 12:32 PM

Wasn’t there a recall long ago for symptoms like described where new codes were flashed to Ecu? Though I have no idea about the airlift thing

soundman98 02-11-2020 09:22 PM

first things first, the only area that anything you did interacts with the vehicle is the electrical system. i'd pull the air lift system fuses first, and then take it for another drive. it shouldn't affect anything, but is the easiest way to verify that before looking elsewhere.

did you and/or a buddy install the system, or did a shop? if it was a shop, bring it back and calmly explain the deal to come to a resolution to get the car worked on somewhere-- give them a chance first, but don't be a screamer... the next culprit is that something oem got knocked loose, or pinched during the air lift installation.

and the last culprit is that it has nothing to do with the air lift system, and it's something else entirely.

radroach 02-11-2020 09:26 PM

@Kaily an ABS sensor code will throw the car in limp mode. Also might try to stall under braking. Happened to me when I had a broken abs sensor for a week, car barely wants to run under that condition.

Almost makes me think carrying a spare ABS sensor for any wheel job might be a good idea.

soundman98 02-11-2020 09:44 PM

^good point!! check the wheel ABS sensors to have been knocked around during the air ride strut installs, specifically, the strut that the ABS code popped up for.

NARFALICIOUS 02-11-2020 10:04 PM

While 500 is a bit low, 1000 - 2500 RPM on a wamed up car at idle is not normal either.
Normal is 650 to 800 I believe, depending on AC

Kaily 02-11-2020 10:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soundman98 (Post 3298239)
first things first, the only area that anything you did interacts with the vehicle is the electrical system. i'd pull the air lift system fuses first, and then take it for another drive. it shouldn't affect anything, but is the easiest way to verify that before looking elsewhere.

did you and/or a buddy install the system, or did a shop? if it was a shop, bring it back and calmly explain the deal to come to a resolution to get the car worked on somewhere-- give them a chance first, but don't be a screamer... the next culprit is that something oem got knocked loose, or pinched during the air lift installation.

and the last culprit is that it has nothing to do with the air lift system, and it's something else entirely.

Thank you for the advice, we tapped into the windshield wiper fuse for the airlift system. To be honest that's been randomly acting up too, the wipers come on at random and I can't do anything to turn them off..

A couple of friends helped install the system since I didn't know anything about how to install it and they've installed it a few times on cars they've had.

I'll take another look at everything this weekend.

Kaily 02-11-2020 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by radroach (Post 3298241)
@Kaily an ABS sensor code will throw the car in limp mode. Also might try to stall under braking. Happened to me when I had a broken abs sensor for a week, car barely wants to run under that condition.

Almost makes me think carrying a spare ABS sensor for any wheel job might be a good idea.

Yea it feels like the car just wants to quit, I bet the sensor got damaged with all the hammering from changing out the studs.

Kaily 02-11-2020 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NARFALICIOUS (Post 3298253)
While 500 is a bit low, 1000 - 2500 RPM on a wamed up car at idle is not normal either.
Normal is 650 to 800 I believe, depending on AC

My car seemed to have a dramatic cold start at about 2500, then it usually calmed down to about 1000.

soundman98 02-11-2020 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kaily (Post 3298254)
Thank you for the advice, we tapped into the windshield wiper fuse for the airlift system. To be honest that's been randomly acting up too, the wipers come on at random and I can't do anything to turn them off..

this is seriously very concerning. and why the windshield wiper fuse, of all the fuses to pick from?!? a proper install of any device shouldn't result in electrical issues.

*my internal voice is now screaming at me to RUN AWAY, RUN AWAY VERY FAST AND DON'T LOOK BACK*

humfrz 02-11-2020 10:20 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Kaily (Post 3298254)
Thank you for the advice, we tapped into the windshield wiper fuse for the airlift system. To be honest that's been randomly acting up too, the wipers come on at random and I can't do anything to turn them off..

A couple of friends helped install the system since I didn't know anything about how to install it and they've installed it a few times on cars they've had.

I'll take another look at everything this weekend.

This may be the problem - :confused0068:


humfrz

Kaily 02-11-2020 10:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soundman98 (Post 3298261)
this is seriously very concerning. and why the windshield wiper fuse, of all the fuses to pick from?!? a proper install of any device shouldn't result in electrical issues.

*my internal voice is now screaming at me to RUN AWAY, RUN AWAY VERY FAST AND DON'T LOOK BACK*

Quote:

Originally Posted by humfrz (Post 3298262)
This may be the problem - :confused0068:


humfrz

The windshield wiper fuse was used because for some reason literally every other fuse we tried wouldn't work--we tried all the fuses for things that should have been off if the car was off but the airlift system would be turn on even thought they keys are not in the car and the car is not on..

soundman98 02-11-2020 10:45 PM

"ECU IG1"
"ECU IG2"
"ECU ACC"

are all circuits that very commonly come on/off with a key. i believe ignition 2 is the radio power circuit, so it's easy to know if it's working.

Spuds 02-12-2020 12:25 AM

Looks like OP may have had electrical problems in the past? Been a while but may be related.

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113496

ROFL it's Waffle 02-13-2020 06:20 AM

So to speak to the 500 rpm, my WRX had similar symptoms when I did my exhaust, intake, and EBCS. I was surprised to learn how much the MAF sensor was tied to ABS, TCS (wheel speed sensor). Although I agree that your wiring to the wiper fuse is puzzling, maybe clean your MAF sensor with some MAF cleaner. But maybe your car went to limp mode because of the questionable wiring. This is why I'm a mechanical guy, I despise electrics lol.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

p1l0t 02-13-2020 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROFL it's Waffle (Post 3298526)
So to speak to the 500 rpm, my WRX had similar symptoms when I did my exhaust, intake, and EBCS. I was surprised to learn how much the MAF sensor was tied to ABS, TCS (wheel speed sensor). Although I agree that your wiring to the wiper fuse is puzzling, maybe clean your MAF sensor with some MAF cleaner. But maybe your car went to limp mode because of the questionable wiring. This is why I'm a mechanical guy, I despise electrics lol.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

It doesn't take as long as people think to pull out sensors and test their resistance. Tedious but it may be the solution (although it could be as simple as plugs, fuel injector cleaner, or an air filter!) I had a similar problem with my Fiancée's Impreza, low RPMs, occasional cam position sensor, and rarely a cyclinder misfire code. I replaced on cam sensor that didn't read out the right ohms and that made it better but it was still a little wierd with the RPMs just less codes thrown so I ran a bottle of injector cleaner and the car drives normally again. The issues can be the same or different but the approach is the same. Test anything that might be a problem and fix the cheap possibilities first.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

soundman98 02-13-2020 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROFL it's Waffle (Post 3298526)
This is why I'm a mechanical guy, I despise electrics lol.

you know, everyone that's contracted me to do electrical work that says this phrase is always the type that firmly believes that everything can be fixed with only duct tape, baling wire, and wd40.

duct tape is conductive, baling wire has a high resistance, and wd40 is flammable. none of those things should be mixed with electricity...

ROFL it's Waffle 02-14-2020 09:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soundman98 (Post 3298834)
duct tape is conductive

:offtopic:(<-- damn dude, smile a little) The aluminum stuff used to seal the seams on duct work is without question conductive. General purpose duct tape is not conductive, but it is also not insulated (doesn't protect against getting zapped). It's just not advisable to use because it offers minimal fire protection under a load.

humfrz 02-14-2020 04:25 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by soundman98 (Post 3298834)
you know, everyone that's contracted me to do electrical work that says this phrase is always the type that firmly believes that everything can be fixed with only duct tape, baling wire, and wd40.

duct tape is conductive, baling wire has a high resistance, and wd40 is flammable. none of those things should be mixed with electricity...

Bubba says you're WRONG!

:iono:


humfrz

soundman98 02-14-2020 08:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROFL it's Waffle (Post 3298906)
:offtopic:(<-- damn dude, smile a little) The aluminum stuff used to seal the seams on duct work is without question conductive. General purpose duct tape is not conductive, but it is also not insulated (doesn't protect against getting zapped). It's just not advisable to use because it offers minimal fire protection under a load.

general purpose duct tape is in fact conductive. i made an amplifier very unhappy playing with some speakers trying to use duct tape to seal off the back side of the speakers(putting tape over/across the terminals), the speakers started audibly distorting from the short. i've also ran into it a few times in residential wiring, after it causes issues that no one else can figure out...

i'm talking about this stuff
http://images2.minutemediacdn.com/im...floss/w_17.png

put an ohm meter on the adhesive part of your roll :)

soundman98 02-14-2020 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by humfrz (Post 3299047)
Bubba says you're WRONG!

:iono:


humfrz

nothing quite says wise and experienced like full tattoo sleeves and a scraggly beard!

i don't mind. bubba's keep me employed.

PetrolioBenzina 02-15-2020 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kaily (Post 3298270)
The windshield wiper fuse was used because for some reason literally every other fuse we tried wouldn't work--we tried all the fuses for things that should have been off if the car was off but the airlift system would be turn on even thought they keys are not in the car and the car is not on..

Going from bad to worse.

mrg666 02-15-2020 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kaily (Post 3298112)
Recently its been at 500 and the car shakes as if its about to stall.

check engine and traction lights.

car just shut off. It turned back on without any trouble.

I solved those symptoms with a MAF sensor replacement. The CEL was P0172 (system too rich).

I had similar trouble later but this time CEL was P0304 (cylinder misfire) with additional symptom of engine shaking, not just rough idle. That was fixed with replacing the valve springs.

Get an OBDII reader and post the CEL number here so that you can get better help.

BTW, normal warm idle is ~800 rpm. If AC or radiator fans are on, idle goes closer to 1000 rpm.

Adam_L 02-16-2020 11:59 PM

Keep it all OE , just do a K&N /TRD drop in air filter , use as good of lubricants as you can afford , change engine oil every 5k miles roughly, and put in the highest 91-94 octane fuel as you can!

jflogerzi 02-18-2020 01:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kaily (Post 3298258)
My car seemed to have a dramatic cold start at about 2500, then it usually calmed down to about 1000.

That's normal with a stock ECU tune. Does this to get cat up to temp

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:06 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2026 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.


Garage vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.