Turbo to Supercharger
 

I turbocharged my car and I'm thinking of switching to a supercharger. Any recommendations for a supercharger? I got an oil cooler, catch can and a fuel pump already installed

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But why?

I guess reliability and heat issues. Cant seem to run ac in the summer without causing my car to overheat and even with the ac on it only blows hot air.

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What turbo kit do you have? Summer in Toronto isn't exactly brutal and there are guys in Texas running turbo kits with AC working.

I got the greddy t518z. And yeah summer here isn't bad but i cant push my car when its 22 celsius or the coolant temp gauge starts to rise.

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Get a radiator my guy and slim fans.

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I got the a new rad installed maybe need bigger fans i have 9 inch fans

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Thats pretty weird. I run same turbocharger here in FL and my AC works fine without overheating. Did you heat tape the radiator hose below, near the headers as well?

Still gotta get that done but also how much power are you making. Cuz for some reason mine is making 340 ... https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a05c571ab3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...b2c779ebd4.jpg

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I haven't put it on the Dyno yet, still have to finish up e-tuning and want to replace my stock overpipe/fp. Also want to get a vented hood for the heat but don't like the verus vent option and the Carbon Fiber is too flashy so I'd have to get that painted, plus it rains too much here so my engine bay would get dirty quick. Then I'm buying a house as well so my expenses for the car are being pushed back.


How much psi are you running?

I think i remember it was 10 but need a boost gauge soon

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I like that whole house idea lol i just wanted boosted brz and that was it but i didnt expect to have so much heat issues lol

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Looks pretty normal. I would recommend you get hood vents. Also are you running on waste gate spring pressure or what PSI? You might need an ac recharge...

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I think the greddy kit comes with its own waste gate spring at 10 psi i think?

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I finished my tune at 10 but tuner said there is slight room to play with so I'm tuning for 11 psi right now. Everything still stock except clutch, running 93.


Wanted a boosted car as well and sold my motorcycle to fund it 4 months back.



Do you have a turbo blanket as well? I also agree that you should have your AC looked at/recharged, and take a look at your AC lines in the front. Early people who installed oil coolers didn't route the SS lines correctly and so it acted like a saw, cutting through the aluminum AC line when driving/vibrating.

Shoot ill definitely get that checked and yeah i got a blanket it helps

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Ceramic coat the manifold, exhaust wrap too, get a turbo blanket. What is your AFR, IAT, oil temps and coolant temps? Is your thermostat opening?

Here's an example:

Afr is 14 im not sure what iat is and i gotta run a log to show my temps. As for the thermostat im not sure how to check if its opening

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IAT = Intake Air Temperature.

Where is your oil cooler located? It will saturate your radiator with heat if it's right in front of it

..shit i assumed the people who installed it for me would know that. Cuz the way its set up rn is my intercooler right in the front then its either my oil cooler or condenser then rad

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Your AFR is 14? On boost? What’s your target?

I don’t think that is accurate. People run oil coolers, FMIC, trans coolers, etc in front of radiators all the time. I don’t believe the ambient air can extract enough heat to make a difference, meaning, if the ambient air is 20 degrees Celsius and the oil is 100 degrees Celsius then the air leaving the oil cooler isn’t even close to 100 degrees. Moreover, the oil cooler isn’t blocking much of the radiator.

I havent checked my afr on boost still need gauges. Didnt have time to get them during the summer

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If you are running 14:1 then your IATs will be fine, but your EGTs will likely be high, and the engine will run hotter. You will make more power, but you will also increase your chances of detonation. I doubt you are running 14:1. Most boosted cars have a goal of 12:1 on boost with some variation.

Get a bluetooth OBDII reader and the torque app on your phone. Should be able to see some numbers that way.


I also have my mishimoto oil cooler in front of my radiator, behind my turbo's cooler. About 2 inches of spacing between each.

Mine is 14:1 on idle i never got a chance to see it on boost definitely gonna get the bluetooth obdii

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I'm asking because I don't know. Sounds like your car was tuned on a dyno in a shop. I guess I thought you would have an OFT in your possession (which would have all the information we're asking about), even just for the convenience if you need to change maps.

im not even going to read all the posts, just the OP. get a JRSC c30. its what everyone has. watch speed academy videos on youtube if you wont take it from me.

and read this quick article if ur serious abt changing FI types, take the 60 seconds and read the dang thing: http://speed.academy/scion-frs-subar...install-guide/

Usually OFT is for people who do E-Tuning without a Dyno Shop since most places aren't familiar with OFT. You also can't lock your tune with OFT either, which most tuners want to.

I have an oft i just gotta plug it later tonight to check and ill update

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Did you see his dyno plot? No way he's going to be happy with a JSRC after having that. There are certainly things that seem off about his setup, he should fix them before shelling out for an entirely new boost setup.

Idk what it could be tbh

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i too think it s a downgrade going to supercharger, you would soon regret it
Also a sc maybe won't give you the extreme heat soak of the turbo, but it still suffer immensely the heat, like a huge torque/drop when the ambient temperature rise, and the car is always dead under 4k rpm

I agree with others that a supercharger is a torque curve downgrade, and it is likely not necessary because your turbo issues should be fixable. People run turbos in far hotter conditions and climates. Either the AFR is way off or the turbo has damage to the fins/shaft or there is a melted cat causing an obstruction or the thermostat has failed. I don’t know, but this is fixable.

I just realized I never told you how to tell if the thermostat is stuck. One way is to remove it and replace it, but to confirm it is bad, you boil the thermostat in water and see if the copper plunger opens. If it maintains its size then it is old and frozen. A stuck thermostat usually causes an engine to run hot or run cool. If your engine is running hot, but your radiator cap is cool to the touch then that is a tell tale sign that the thermostat is stuck.

I guess saturate was poor choice of wording. When I had an oil cooler in the very front I noticed that in traffic it contributed to not only raising my iat but also heated up the air in front of the rad.

When you're moving at speed I doubt it'd present an issue

Normally, in traffic, for any car, IATs would increase, as well as, oil temps and water temps, but you are saying after adding an oil cooler that these temps increased even more in traffic? That sounds odd. With the fans blowing, the increased thermal surface area would definitely dissipate heat, and if the fans weren’t blowing then there isn’t much heat exchange happening anyways, as air is a poor conductor, which is why it is used as insulation. Regardless, there isn’t more heat in the system by adding an oil cooler, so much as, moving heat from the engine to the exchanger, so what hurts one thing says you, I would say benefits another thing. Even if there is heat in the air in front of the exchanger that you can feel, heat flows across a temperature gradient, so as long as the oil or air was hotter, heat would be lost to the environment. Obviously the delta would be less, so the rate of exchange would be less, but this seems very negligible, again, especially considering the size difference between the radiator and oil cooler. Just saying.

alot of people report worse IATs and issues in stop and go with traffic with Turbo setups, FMICs and oil cooler rad stack in front.... One thing you could try as well is getting the JR Dual Rad which is and oil cooler and bigger radiator in one. Its not suited for heavy track work but street, Canyon, and light track duty its fine. As with other don't down grade. Just eliminate each potential issue 1 by 1. But welcome to modified twin life. Our engine bay stock is an oven, now add in more power, a hot turbo

I am with most everyone else. The heat issue is fixable. Also going supercharger is a downgrade in reliability. The heat needs to stay inside the exhaust. This can be done with ceramic coating and/or wrapping. Turbo blanket is a must. Everything should be covered up to the turbo. Since you are having heat issues you will probably want to cover after turbo all the way to the over pipe. You will probably need to add some hood vents also to get heat out. I went with 2 of the Versus large vents. My setup is similar to yours. Intercooler, oil cooler, radiator. I have the AVO kit. The design is better for heat control. My inlet was moved fwd of the intercooler with the Greedy intake. I sit in Dallas traffic in 100+ deg weather with the A/C on and do not have heat issues. Hottest track day I have done is in the 70’s and did not have a heat issue.

Cliff note version.
I believe wrap will cure your issue, vent just to be sure.