Something is wrong S/C
 

I have the Edelbrock S/C and the car has been running fine for almost a year. Well last week I got on it and it shuttered and the CEL flashed but no code was set.



Then the other day I had the same issue and then got a 0300 and 0301. I have 92k miles on the odometer so i finally installed the HKS sparkplugs. everything in the install was fine, but now the car run like absolute shit.



There is no power, its misfiring, and according to my gauges, it seems like the AF is not getting richer going into boost.



one thing that did happen is while turning a ratchet, I touched the positive battery terminal and fried the right side fuse link. The ECU was disconnected when this happened. I didnt realize I killed it until i went in and had no power. I moved that cable to the left side fuse link and got all my power back.


the spark plugs are gapped at .025





Nothing else was really touched in the install process.

No codes now?

install the oem spec spark plugs. the NGK's.

i did the same thing once with an older chrysler. it called for champions, i put in splitfires that i gapped to the factory spec. splitfire specifically said they would work with that motor. it barely ran, and wouldn't rev.

i re-did the job with champions, gapped as they should, and the car ran just as it was supposed to.

coppers too, if it matters

alot of companies will try to sell you iridium or platinum'

ive never had good results with platinum on modified cars.

also what heat range?

i think the important thing is that while a supercharger was added, the overall ignition system is entirely stock. meaning that you need to treat the ignition system as a stock ignition system, and give it oem parts if you want it to work as it did before.

have you any experience on boosting these cars?


this isnt a chrysler, I have been doing this a long time and I have done nothing i wouldnt do before



OEM are iridium and these are 1 step colder than OEM

no, i don't do anything with boost. but the point still stands. you changed brands of plug, and now it runs like crap.

Iridium tipped plugs are easier on the coil packs. The higher breakdown voltage of regular plugs is hell on the more delicate, compact devices.


That's the main reason they exist.

Log misfire counts per cylinder , put some standard pligs vack in if its still getting misfire counts then its likely coil packs.


Misfire causes cel light to flash but doesnt log code. The cel doesnt flash till mosfire counts exceed a threshold. So you need a device to log mosfires lioe ecutk cable or techstream. Ecutek calls msfires roughness monitor

the one step colder might do it. esp if the supercharger was intended for the same heat range as OE.

What year is the ride ? If it’s a 2013-14 I would have changed the ignition coils with the plugs . That year model of Frs Brz is known to have the coils go bad in the 70k mile range .
First start with out with putting OE PLUGS IN from dealer, nothing fancy . If they don’t fix it then start with the next part being the coils .

However,Since you are boosted look for any vacuum leaks possible around the pcv filter area where it connects to the block or check under the manifold areas that may have had a hose pop off . Check for leaks everywhere there is a hose aswell.

A bad vacuum leak can make the car run funny from the minute you start it or it can run fine and then runny funny when the boost or rpms are high .
If the plugs don’t fix it perhaps get smoke test done to look for leaks .

This has been discussed before, but there are people running 700whp with stock plugs.

clearly, this can't be the problem because he already said his car and my experience in the same situation have nothing in common!

I got a set of OEM plugs, ill put them in tomorrow. I got an email back from Edelbrock to check out the bypass actuator.



The car idles perfectly and cruises just fine. Its only WOT boost where its stumbling.

I got a set of OEM plugs, ill put them in tomorrow. I got an email back from Edelbrock to check out the bypass actuator.



The car idles perfectly and cruises just fine. Its only WOT boost where its stumbling.

Plugs and or coil packs.

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk

Unfortunately, it is really hard to diagnose the problem given the electrical mishap because that opens it up to anything. It seems likely everything is fine electrically if you have no CELs, but it is hard to be certain. It is also odd that you aren’t getting any codes while on boost if it is breaking up.

Just to clarify, the car will run like shit, especially on boost or at serious load after reconnecting the negative battery terminal. You have to cruise around and turn the car off and on before the system goes out of this check mode. Even still, it will feel less sharp and responsive for a while until it relearns.

I don’t think your problems is or ever was the spark plugs. They don’t fail so precipitously. Moreover, how did they look? Was there visible damage, especially on cylinder 1’s spark plug? I’m guess not, and I don’t think the other plugs would do so poorly, even at a significant gap change.

what is this check mode you speak of? With an ECUTEK I should be ready set go? thats all I did when I installed the SC.



The car was having a problem before I even started working on it. So either I have a sensor gone bad or engine failure. Its idling perfectly fine. I flat out dont get it

It doesn’t matter if someone is stock or on ECUTEK; if you disconnect the negative battery terminal then the ECU is reset and needs to learn again, so the experience will feel less responsive and sharp, but especially your first time driving the car, it will feel like there is a power problem when aggressively on the accelerator as if the traction control is partially activating or timing is being conserved. You should have noticed this to some extent during ECUTEK reflashes as well.

The question is what caused the misfire in the first place? Fuel, spark? Did you look at the plugs and notice aging or damage when you replaced them, especially on the cylinder that was misfiring? You had a CEL with the misfires, but now the car drives worse, yet you have no knew codes. Isn’t that odd?

Also, there are people on original plugs with double your miles and stock plugs with three to four times the stock power, so my feeling is that the plugs were fine and the new ones might not be the problem. Maybe this is a fueling issue. I don’t know. What is your fueling setup? I could be wrong. Just seems odd.

i think i found my problem. I think I have a dead coil or injector.



http://www.celicatech.com/gallery/fi.../6/misfire.jpg

now i see different part numbers for 2013 FRS, and another part number for later years. are the coils interchangeable? what should i get? if its a coil?

The direct injectors are numbered and a match to the cylinder or something. I don't think the coils are special. I found this:

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...38&postcount=5

I'm guessing they are all interchangeable, but the newer part number replaces old numbers with a new part.

You said you are running an Edelbrock SC, but are you on a CARB tune with stock injectors? What's your setup? Stock pulley (looks like it)?

Its your ignition coil, its a common issue on the 13-14 models. I had the same issue, idle, and cruised fine until i wot around 5k rpms it would misfire. Id change all the spark plugs too with it. Swap the coil to another cylinder to see if the code switches to another cylinder.

yes, yes and yes

will do tonight, ill move 1 to 3 and ill go ahead and re-install the HKS plugs. Im going to get a better tune really soon, the Edelbrock tune its not the best IMO

It was the coil, all is fixed

Glad you fixed it. Thanks for updating the post.