FIXED: Installed Edelbrock SC. Now car is throwing CELs
 

So I installed an Edelbrock SC last week and everything was going great until I started getting these CELs: P0171, P117B, and P1170. I've checked all the wiring for the injectors and they seem connected tightly and are clocked correctly as well.

I'm running the CARB tune from Edelbrock but I do have a catless Gruppe-S header (while waiting for my local tuner to give me an appointment for a custom tune). I'm not sure if that is making the system throw these codes. There's a chance its related by the looks of this thread (post #4): http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1618213

The only other thing I can think of is a bad battery (according to post #14 on this thread: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2128963). I've had to jump my car several times over the last month, and have had it go completely dead about 3 to 4 times as well due to my fault but I've also fully charged it with nothing connected at least 2 times over the last week. These codes keep coming back though. I'm getting a new battery in a few hours to see if that fixes anything though.

Interesting to note though: car still drives completely fine. I haven't smelled any gas or anything sitting in the car. CELs also don't happen while driving (after clearing it), and all 3 times it has happened I had just gotten into the car and turned it on and was idling waiting for things to warm up.

Any idea on what this might be would be super appreciated :)

EDIT: Went to buy a battery and monitored LTFT and STFT. LTFT was basically 40% any time I went near the throttle. STFT was mostly 0 but ranged between -5 to +11. I'm now leaning towards this tune really not liking the catless header. At idle, LTFT is 18.8 and STFT is 0.

Edit: Datalog: https://datazap.me/u/rb28dett/nov-17-cruise

FIXED: https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...5&postcount=79

Did you make sure every bolt is tight for the DI bracket? I would double check them

Sorry I'm not sure which bracket you're referring to. If you mean the entire fuel rail assembly with the injectors to the manifold, then yes. I torqued them down to 10 ft-lbs like the instruction manual said.

How is this a warranty or recall/tsb related issue?

If you're standing in front of the car, it's the black steel bracket that the direct injection ecu bolts to on the left side. I'm sure you were thorough, it's just something to double check as it's not an uncommon issue after having removed the intake plenum to install a supercharger :)

Ah crap. I clicked on the wrong forum. Totally my bad :bonk:

Ah gotcha. I will double check this because one of the coolant hoses from the SC assembly does sit on top of that bracket and at one point before installing did cause one of those 4 connectors to come loose.

I double checked the bracket and it was tight. No movement at all. The connectors on the back were all also completely seated and locked in place.

Connectors: https://i.imgur.com/VRWgCsM.jpg

Bracket: https://i.imgur.com/FmrgCLO.jpg

Issues | Warranty | Recalls / TSB
Well it is an "issue".

I'm battling the exact same codes as you for the past 3 months. Tightened DI bracket and everything. I have the Sprintex SC though. Codes come back about 2-3 days of driving after clearing it.

Exhaust leak or a hose blown off of the intake manifold.

Could you also see similar symptoms with an aftermarket header with a tune designed for a stock one, or is it purely because of a loose intake/exhaust leak?

I don't know but a good test would be to reinstall the stock header. You have the ecutek tools, right?

Yeah, definitely going back to the stock header is a good test - just a real pain haha. And yes, I do have the Ecutek cable and software.

I've emailed my local tuner to see if they can fit me in since I'm fairly certain it just needs to be custom tuned to compensate for the header but I'm not sure if they even do any tuning in the winter.

You can log with that stuff, right? Take a minute or so of cruising when it's all warmed up. Sample all the channels you can and post it up on datazap.me


https://datazap.me/u/ultramaroon/log...?log=0&data=38

Yep it can log but I don't have a laptop that can run the Ecutek software without being plugged in. But I also have my OFT from when I was still NA, so I'll probably just use that.

Datalog: https://datazap.me/u/rb28dett/nov-17-cruise

Short cruise after everything had warmed up. Very little throttle throughout, with one instance up to 4k RPM with light throttle as well.

The edelbrock tune is not for catless headers.

Certainly shows something out of balance. I'm still an amateur at this but lots of experienced people will see it.

An engine is basically an air pump. Your air pump can now flow about 20% more air because the outlet is less clogged. You can't run the tune designed for 20% less air.

It is difficult to drive because the throttle tables in the Edelbrock tune are left like they are in stock form - a small pedal input results in a large change in throttlebody opening. In stock form this is done so the car doesn't feel like a slug. When you have forced induction available this makes it very tough to keep the engine in vacuum.

Swap the headers or get a real tune ASAP.

Headers change the VE. The calculation for load uses VE in the divisor, so for a given measured airflow the ECU will undervalue the engine load and will not add the appropriate amount of fuel until the AFR shows lean and then it will attempt to correct it up to the maximum fuel trim allowed.

I've never seen fuel trims over 27%, I didn't know they could go as high as his log is reporting. I guess that is also determined in the tune.

Just FYI there's another hidden bolt on the left of that backet quite far down that goes straight into the block, that one in particular is the grounding bolt, so check that one too.

Yep, all 3 bolts are nice and tight.

Reading through these comments I'm fairly certain my catless header with a tune that isn't expecting one is the root cause of these issues. I'm going to swap back to the OEM ones this weekend and see if it gets better.

Is there a way to verify that its correctly grounded other than just checking the tightness of those bolts? I'm guessing checking if there's low resistance between the injector ECU housing (or that bracket) and the battery negative should be good?

It's not the problem. Just make sure the screws are tight.

Yeah. I didn't mean to sound dismissive. It's just that it's an Occam's razor thing. Don't get too caught up in the least likely stuff.

I haven't fixed it yet. I'm planning on swapping back to the OEM headers on Saturday when I have some time and seeing if it fixes it.

That said, I had to drive the car to work today and I noticed something very interesting.

Under very light throttle and low rpm, the LTFT is sky high as I've shown in the previous log (over 35% sometimes). I've been driving it like this for the past few days to avoid damaging something but today I had to give it some gas and get it to the higher RPM to make a merge and I noticed that at around 4500rpm and beyond, both LTFT and STFT would drop to 0 and stay there as long as I was on the accelerator. I suspect 4500rpm is where the system transitions from PI to DI and there's a noticeable hiccup/blip/lack of acceleration for a split second before the car starts accelerating again and LTFT and STFT both drop to 0.

Essentially, below 4500rpm LTFT is very high and the engine is probably using PI. Past 4500rpm it uses DI and fuel trims are perfect (so is AFR). There is also a small noticeable transition between these two modes noticed as a momentary lack in acceleration.

I didn't have my OFT plugged in to log, but I did have the torque app for monitoring and I was able to get some data logs with that. The resolution is low but it shows exactly what I mean: https://datazap.me/u/rb28dett/nov-21...a=3-5&mark=153 . Every time you see LTFT drop down to 0 was when the engine had crossed past 4500RPM.

I've linked it to an area where I could be above 4500rpm for a (very) short period of time due to traffic.

Question is whether this behavior is because of the wrong header for the tune or if there is something going on with my injectors/fuelling.

Yep. I noticed that AFR generally looked pretty good regardless of RPM or boost pressure and tracked the commanded values pretty closely. At least the engine doesn't seem to be running lean.

Update: I installed the OEM header back on with new gaskets everywhere as well as a new battery. Fuel trims are better than than they were before but still very high. I also got the same 3 CELs as before after about 2 hours of driving since finishing everything up.

Here's another low resolution datalog: https://datazap.me/u/rb28dett/nov-25-drive

As before, above 4500RPM everything is looking great. Its only below that the fuel trims are way off.

I have no idea what to try anymore...

Somebody shoot down my theory. I still think that it's an intake manifold leak (hose blown off) because off boost, there is a vacuum so extra air is getting sucked in, bypassing the MAF. On boost, more airflow is measured than is actually used because now it's blowing out the same hole.

None of the hoses on the intake side are blown off. I did a fairly thorough visual inspection of the engine bay yesterday as I was replacing the header and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary.

Assuming the recirc valve is the infamous bypass valve that seems to kill itself so often on these units, this is definitely a possibility. That said, I'm not sure how likely that is considering this is a brand new unit.

New breaks all the time. Do you hear any hissing? Would that be a thing in this case?

I haven't really noticed any hissing noises but I also haven't been listening for any so there's a good chance that exists. I'll have to check in the morning.

I'm guessing this (http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=2368) post is the proper check for a broken bypass valve?

It did not, unfortunately. I think there's a strong possibility of a bad bypass actuator though.

Good luck! Looks promising. @BirdTRD

Yup, sounds to me like you have a pretty good vacuum leak somewhere, whether it's the bypass valve or not remains to be seen.
Since the bypass valve is new, odds are it's not the problem, but you should still rule it out and not assume new = good. Re-check ALL the hose connections that were involved with the install, PCV, Evap, brake booster, etc. Once those are all verified to be good, you're left with the intake manifold gaskets because... a vacuum leak is a vacuum leak.

I'm not 100% sure whether I did the test correctly but I pinched the only hose (that looked like a pcv hose) coming from the back of the SC with a pair of pliers but nothing changed. I couldn't really hear any hissing over the noise of the engine though. I held it pinched for about 2-3 seconds and the engine idle didn't change noticeably. See the first photo for the hose I pinched.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...db1361b4c9.jpg

The second photo is of the 3 hoses onto the SC itself. The bottom hose (RH PCV) doesn't have a clamp on it because there wasn't enough space to fit one in there. I only had enough space to clamp the middle brake booster line. The instructions also didn't specify whether those hoses needed to be clamped so I didn't clamp the bottommost one. Maybe that's where the leak is?
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c510f40152.jpg

The first pic is the bypass valve hose. If the valve does not move from the open position (pulled in due to vacuum) when you pinch the hose, then it is working correctly and not leaking.
As for not having a clamp on the PCV hose, I would put one on, but I think it was a pretty snug fit so I doubt if that's your issue.
You also need to look at the other end of these 3 hoses to make sure they are still connected, especially at the evap Solenoid (known to pop off from there), so from the SC nose to the evap solenoid and from the evap solenoid to the hard line.

I checked the evap solenoid and both hoses that connect to it are still on snugly. Didn't notice anything off there. I also checked the hose which connects to the hard line and that is on there nice and tight as well.

The MAP sensor does report about 18 to 19 inHg at idle fully warmed up (idle around 850rpm) so it does seem to be making and keeping vacuum reasonably well (unless I'm misinterpreting the data).

Could a damaged MAF sensor cause this? When I was installing the MAF sensor onto the new housing, I had to fight with it for quite some time to get it to seat in correctly. Well, I fought with it until a friend showed me that putting some water on the o-ring makes the sensor slide in smoothly... yay inexperience.

Photo of the evap solenoid's hose connections:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2ccfcf10d0.jpg

I've been having the same codes as OP, P0171, P1170 and P117B after having this kit installed for 2 months. I replaced the bypass actuator valve and that fixed some hesitation, but the codes persisted.

I have smoke tested all vacuum lines and exhaust and found no leaks. I'm running the stock headers with the CARB tune just an FYI. As crazy as this sounds, replacing the front O2 sensor resolved the P1170 and P117B issues... this part wasn't even touched during the install and worked prior to installing the sc.

I'm now getting CEL codes of P0171 and P050A ONLY during cold starts. I had a really tough time putting my MAF sensor in during the install as well. I have since found out that Edelbrock revised this housing part for newer kits. I am very inclined to think that we both damaged our MAF sensor by forcing it in, however I am not willing to gamble $450 on a part that may not fix this issue. Does anyone know how to check if the MAF sensor is working without it actually throwing the specific CEL for it malfunctioning?

Thanks and any help is appreciated.

I'm off to buy a can of MAF cleaner to see if its just a clogged/dirty MAF. If not, I will try to get my hands on a friend's MAF sensor and see if that fixes it.

EDIT: Here's a pre-cleaning datalog. I also added the MAF output and O2 sensor output. O2 sensor looks a little weird to me (looks like its tending to read rich?), but I don't know enough to say that confidently. https://datazap.me/u/rb28dett/pre-ma...0&data=3-5-7-8

MAF sensor before cleaning (I noticed a little nick in the housing):
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f0489ef6c2.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...cf17e603c2.jpg