Front sway bar links with KW-based coilovers
 

Figured I’d share my experience in case it helps anyone in the future. Car is 2017 Toyota 86.

While using KW-based coilovers (KW, ST, RCE) the stock end links may or may not be too long depending upon what front sway bar you run.

In my case, I am running a Perrin 22mm front bar. With this setup the stock end links are too long, resulting in slight contact between the sway bar and control arm halfway between full droop and ride height.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...01a6ba2b99.jpg

I originally tried Whiteline KLC180-195 end links based on recommendations I found on this forum. These end links moved the sway bar from below to above the control arm which avoids any contact issues with the control arm. However, at full compression the sway bar would just barely contact the chassis in this area.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...22e1a959d2.jpg

Even when adjusting these beyond what Whiteline recommends I still had very slight contact with the chassis, like just barely touching the paint. Here’s the clearance at ride height.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f9ea8187be.jpg

So, I researched and found that Whiteline KLC180-215 is a longer version. With this setup, I have plenty of adjustment in the link and have gained about 1/2” in clearance to the chassis, which should be all that is needed. Here’s the clearance at ride height.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b399c871d1.jpg
Here’s a comparison of all 3 end link lengths.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...0a9b419245.jpg

If you run a different front sway bar then this may not be an issue for you. However, I did notice the problem even with a stock front bar.


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@Chuckable how much lower are you than stock? I feel like the ride height plays in here as well when trying to determine which length endlink to buy.

Definitely it does. I’m about 1” lower than stock.


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I'm lowered about 1.25" on RCE Tarmac 2's. Which version would be best for me?

Front sway bar links with KW-based coilovers
 

I hesitate to make a recommendation since I don’t want to be wrong and waste your money, but if you have a Perrin front sway bar then I think the KLC180-215 will work. You won’t have much adjustment in the end link because it will be nearly the right total length.

If you had a stock front bar then I’ve been told that the OEM link will work, but I don’t know if that’s true.


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I’m wondering if this thread is relayed to the issue I’m hearing. Driving over bumps I’ll hear a clunk sometimes coming from the front crossmember.

I know the Perrin front bar isn’t exactly shaped like the stock one so that could be causing issues, but I also have 1/6 of the crossmember bolts stripped and therefore no bolt is there.

Maybe the extra leverage from the bigger front bar is causing the crossmember brace thing to flex?

Any noise I’ve ever heard in that area was a loose end link, though your thought is certainly just as plausible.


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Hey everyone sorry to revive this thread but I'm having the same issue making contact with the lower control arm.



My set up is RCE tarmac 2's with RCE camber plates at -2.4 and I'm using the stock sway bar. I'm lowered about 1.25" maybe a bit more. Do you think the KLC180-215 will help fix that?



Thanks

I’m running those with T2’s. No hitting on my hoopty.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ee4f827152.jpg

Trinidadj, responded to your PM.


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Thanks Chuckable and NoHaveMSG, I'm going to post a pic of what it currently looks like maybe that can a give a bit more insight.

See link below for pics of my set up


https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/14dPwCDo6IPZhwK5CK_ucM_kpbucLGJBO?usp=sharing

An adjustable sway bar link like the Whiteline should take care of it. My setup is very similar, I am running the 22mm Perrin adjustable sway, lowered 1.25 inch from stock, -3.2 camber and mine clears with the whiteline endlink. I had to shorten in most of the way to get it there but it clears by a good amount as you can see from my previous picture.

okay thank you so just to confirm you went with the KLC180-210?

I used the KLC179 but I have them a few turns from as short as they will go.

https://www.whiteline.com.au/product..._number=KLC179

The KLC180-195 looks too short to me.

Sorry didn't mean to say KLC180-195 I meant KLC180 210?

Front sway bar links with KW-based coilovers
 

I’m about 1” lower than stock with -2° camber and the Perrin front bar and the KLC180-215 worked for me. I think it will work for you as well, but I can’t say for 100% sure.


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I ordered the KLC180 215 so I'll update on how it works out for me.



On another note I just had an alignment and the alignment tech said I can replace the end links like this and my current alignment would remain intact:


1. Raise car on jack stands, remove wheels, and Remove the stock end links then set the white line end links to the stock end links length.



2. Attach wheels and place the tires on raised wooden blocks at all corners to make sure it is loaded evenly.


3. Go under the car and adjust the end links so the sway the bar is not preloaded or under tension tighten the lock bolts by hand



4. Raise the car on stands, remove wheels, and tighten to end links torque specs.



If done in this order he said I wouldn't need to get my car re aligned is that true?

Yes, you will be fine. End links won't effect alignment.

Correct. No impact on alignment if you install the end links with no load on them.


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Is it even possible to add preload to the front considering it uses ball joints and no rubber bushings?

In my experience, yes. If the end link is not the right length then it’s awful difficult to get it lined up right and tightened down easily. That’s why I’ve always been told to load the suspension as if it were on the ground while adjusting and tightening suspension components.


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Sorry to revive the thread. Just changed to a coilover setup and changed aftermarket shorter endlinks due to a shorter mounting point from the coilover. Do we need to position the sway bar perpendicular to the ground or leave how it is positioned when you take off both links in both side?

Not sure I understand your question? Basically you just need to set up the sway bar so that it’s slightly above the control arm and the adjustable endlinks are still in a safe adjustment position. You don’t want to unthread them too much or they won’t be safe to use.


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I’m sorry if it is confusing. So while the car is up in jack, disconnect both endlinks, then position one side to the one you said above, then put load on the wheel/suspension and torque?

Front sway bar links with KW-based coilovers
 

Yes, that’s correct. Connect the endlinks to the sway bar, load the suspension, and then adjust the endlinks so that they will slide right on to the coilover mount with as little resistance as possible. Then, torque them down to spec. You dont want any preload on the endlinks if possible. Also, obviously make sure that you’re safe during the whole procedure. It’s sometimes tricky to load the suspension with just jack stands.


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This is one of those instances I can see someone getting seriously hurt. Ideally you want the car supported by the wheels on all four corners. If the person can't do that I would suggest they let a shop do it.

Front sway bar links with KW-based coilovers
 

That’s exactly why I added that disclaimer. With that said, I have used jackstands under the control arms half a dozen or more times, and done it safely. The ideal setup would be with the car elevated and the 4 wheels/tires fully supported on turntables or platforms, or a drive-on lift.


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Front sway bar links with KW-based coilovers
 

Thank you and yes, i made sure i did it the safe way. I did this and it was a big difference with the length of the endlinks initially on both side much better. But I thought this was the source of the noise i was hearing in low speed. Like clunking sound not metal to metal sound though. It is coming from the front. everything is tight and torqued to spec. Can binding springs can cause sound? Coilovers using stock top hats from a 2017.

I understand that, but if the OP doesn't have that kind of experience and maybe someone there who does I wouldn't do it.

I've done it myself and it's a bit sketchy. I'm building wheel cribs just to avoid doing it again.

Glad it worked and you were able to do it safely. It’s tough to isolate coilover noise.

Can you isolate the noise to a specific road condition? We know it’s low speed, but is that while driving on a smooth road? Over bumps? On one side or the other?

Did you remove the sway bar subframes (for lack of a better description) when you installed the sway bar? Some people have accidentally stripped the threads. That might be possible.

Are there any witness marks on the chassis near the sway bar endlinks?

Are the dust boots maybe hitting anything on compression?

Etc.

Might be worth a call to the coilover mfr to see if they have any ideas, and if not, try a local shop to help diagnose.


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It was not my first time working on the car so I get the safety part what to watch out for.

it is in low speed (less the10-15 miles/hr). on smooth road and small bumps. I don't see any marks on any of the suspension parts. It is more audible in the driver's side front.

I'm on stock sway bars so I did not removed it. Just endlinks and coilovers.

Are you using camber plates?

- Andrew

No. I'm on stock top mounts both front and rears.

If you're sure your endlinks, top mounts, and coilovers are in good shape, I would double check your installation and give your front suspension a once over. Top mount nut could be loose for example. I'd also check your front control arm bushings.

But if your endlinks use spherical bearings, I would try to see if those are loose.

- Andrew

I checked everything. All nuts and bolts are tight. Endlink spherical bearings is tight too. I think the noise i'm hearing is from the plastic spring perch and the main spring of the front coilover. Is it okay to put a little grease between there?

That's not usually where I'd expect to hear noise from over bumps...that's more of a turning the steering wheel at slow speeds and hearing a "sprong" noise.

I would try installing OEM endlinks and seeing if the noise goes away as a first step.

- Andrew

I'll try that. But in any case that I'm be hearing that "sprong" noise, what is the remedy for that?

That's fairly rare on KWs on stock top mounts, but lubricating the spring perches would help that.

- Andrew

hi andrew,


i just installed some lightly-used Tarmac 0's and while the performance is awesome, i am also getting some odd noises.



when the car is cold, i will get some weird groaning when turning the wheel maybe the first 5-7 times, and it's clunking over bumps/imperfections at very low speed. when the car is warmed up, the groaning and clunking goes away.



historically this latter noise has always been a slightly-loose top mount nut, but it's definitely tight. i do suspect that the mount is tired (it came used with the coilovers), so i have some Group N mounts on order. i suspect that will cure that. i also have some adjustable end links on order as the stock links are quite close to the lower front control arms.



as for the groaning... it does seem like it's the sound of the spring moving; shouldn't the bearing in the top mount allow the spring stay put? (i.e., the entire assembly turns.) if the spring is indeed turning, i guess a torrington bearing would work in between the spring and the perch, but i've never had to do that before with stock strut mounts (always with spherical bearing camber/caster plates, though).


this is on a 2018 BRZ RS (Performance Pack up here in canada) with roughly 9K miles on it, so everything else is super-fresh. the nice slotting of the upper strut housing bolt holes allowed me to dial in some negative camber, and that coupled with the spring rate/damping harmony have really amplified the joy i get from this car. thanks for the great setup!


peter