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I can't even see if my pads are low. Worst brake design ever.
I think the pads are low, but I can’t even see the pad thickness
I literally had the wheels off, and I have no clue if the pads are low. There is no where to see the pad. Totally blocked views. How are you supposed to see if your pads are low? |
take 1 bolt out of the caliper and rotate the caliper out of the way.
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It takes longer to remove the wheel than it does to swap the pads. |
i've never had a set of pads that's easy to see without moving the caliper
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Should have dug up even more dead threads in the brake subforum and see where this goes. Try the Issues/Warranty subforum too. Just get silly.
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math Mostly
isnt it an interval anyways? check the brake pads every 15k or something? I typically swap em out anyways for what I do and then add that to my list of "check at _____ interval) which literally means take em out and look at how they wear. only pads that are easy to see are those held in place by a snap clip or a single bolt on racing calipers. you got a factory car with sliding calipers. *shrugs* |
OP, you need to start reading the DYI section. There’s a DYI for just about anything to do with this car and it’s growing. Take advantage of those who took the time to create them and learn how to do the job before you even start.
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I agree, I don't like sliding calipers. All exonomy cars should have come with monoblock 4 piston calipers stock.
And that little window on top of the caliper that you can see pad thickness through is stupid too, let's my pads cool off too much when i drive in snow with stock primacy tires. |
Wow, I can't believe you actually need to remove calipers just to inspect the pad thickness.
Every other car I've owned, the pads are in plain view. Most cars, you can see the pad thickness without even removing the wheel. What a disgrace. |
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And the wheel needs to be removed. How did they make a car where you can't see the pads with the car on the ground? Next time you're in a parking lot, look at any other car You can see the pads without touching a single tool. |
look at the caliper from above, you can see the pad plain as day.
if you can't see it, it's damn low. |
God, the whining.
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I'll go remove the wheel and caliper now. |
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I am much more perturbed that I have to open my hood and pull out a sick to check my oil. What is this 1922? https://media3.giphy.com/media/iAYup...nVGk/giphy.gif |
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Whining is what you hear from your manual transmission if it has straight cut gears or no oil. ;) |
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Where is it? I had to lift it up. After I removed the wheel. After I jacked the car.
That is the entire basis of my whining and bitching and ranting! |
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You will clearly see the brake pads |
Jesus OP, how hard is life for you? :lol:
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I can't see the pads on any of the cars in my garage right now. At best, I can potentially look at the bottom of the calipers on my wife's Yaris and deduce the pad thickness by the gap next to the rotor. I might be able to see the FR-S's if I had my thinner-spoked, slightly larger track wheels on, but I doubt it. That being said once the wheels are off, the "window" in the caliper is fine for a quick check when I rotate tires (I'm not sure why you can't see it). If it gets to the point that I can't tell from the window, then it's getting close but here's the thing - the brakes on these (and most modern, small) cars last a crazy long time. I still have the original pads on my '13 with 50k miles, and that includes an average of six AutoX a year since new (I do swap out for track pads on track days). My wife's Yaris has 100k+ miles on the original pads, and there's still a ton of life left in them! I bought a new set just b/c I figured it was probably time, and the original pads are still well over half the thickness of the new ones! That being said, as others have mentioned it's very easy to loosen the bottom bolt and remove the top to swing the caliper out if you want to double-check. If you check them when you rotate your tires at an oil change, they will not go bad in the time between one oil change and the next. |
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Well, I don't know bout that - :iono: Back in the day, to inspect the brake shoe thickness, one had to first jack up the car with a flimsy bumper jack, then go find the cement blocks (that your dad used for something else) to put under the car, then find the big star lug nut wrench (that your brother used and didn't put back), then take off the wheel. Next, pull on the brake drum and see that it is stuck, so go find the BFH (that someone didn't put back in the combine's tool box) then beat on the drum to the point you were afraid you were going to break it. Then if you were lucky, the drum would pop off, exposing you to a face full of finely ground asbestos fibers for you to inhale. NOW, you can inspect the brake shoes for wear. Oh, did I mention that, just as you started, it was getting dark and starting to snow and the wind was whipping snow around from both sides of the car? :sigh: humfrz PS - I left out important step, who knows what it was? |
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because just the thought of having to repack bearings to check pad thickness could keep me up at night.. i'm sure there's a few... |
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I was thinking of the rear brakes. On the higher mileage older cars, the shoes may have warn down the center portion of the drum, leaving a lip on the outer part of the drum. For the drum to come off, especially if the brakes had been adjusted, the adjusting screw mechanism should be screwed to adjust the shoes to more of a closed (inward) position, so the lip on the drum will clear the shoes. Oh, humfrz - go take a nap - you're flashing back again - :( |
Jeez wait till this guy learns how to change the spark plugs...
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^oh, don't remind me!
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Brakes. Buy from dealer? What else to replace?
At 50k, I'm going to replace my pads and rotors. I don't want racing crap for basic street driving. What are my options besides dealer prices? $85 for a rotor is more than I've ever paid for any car ever. Besides the pads and rotors, are there any little parts and extras I should also buy? |
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You can feel it when you drive it.
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This thread has reminded me I should probably pull my fronts apart and service them.
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