Winter Storage
 

I know it's early, but could anyone please inform me on how to properly winter store the 86? My actual car was winter stored every year before my ownership, and I'm looking for tips on how to do it properly. Any and all advice is welcome, such as if I need to be starting the car every now and then, etc.

put the battery on a maintainer, NOT A CHARGER.

keep the gas tank full or nearly full.

and then i tell my car the lie to not worry, and i'll take it out for a spin next weekend.

that's about it.



nit-pickers will tell you to replace all fluids, check tire pressures, put the car on blocks/jack stands to prevent flat spots, get a car cover to prevent dust from damaging the paint, put tennis balls under the wipers to keep the wiper rubber from hardening at odd angles, and heat the garage.

the truth for most of this is that it's 2019, and the car isn't any older than a few years.
tires will come back to shape after warming up over a few miles unless you're on super-soft track-only rubber.
a car cover isn't a bad idea, but i like looking at my car, to be reminded the non-snow days will come again.
if your wiper blades are getting funky, replace them, they're cheap. no one puts tennis balls under their wipers any other time, who's telling the wiper blades they're in storage?!?
and heated garages are nice to work in, but i've never seen a car shiver, so why do i need to cater to it's 'needs'?

and not going super crazy on storage procedure also allows me to run the car as a emergency backup for when my current daily decides to take a sick day.

ok, ok, the truth is that i'm addicted to the car, so as long as the roads have been clear/dry for a few days, i actually am taking the car out for a therapy session. i genuinely tried to leave the car in the garage last winter from november to may to keep it nice. i didn't make it past thanksgiving without getting itchy, twitchy, and irritable.

This all of this ^^^^^ Especially the part about getting carried away.
I will however add...
Use some fuel stabilizer in the gas. Follow the directions. It does help.
If storing outside or where you may have rodents put down some bait or traps. Stored cars attract them like new housing developments.
Don't just start it and let it idle for a few minutes. If you can't take it out for a drive where you can get it fully warmed up then don't start it at all. Short idles can cause moisture issues in with dry winter air.


Other then that it is just a car and sitting for a few months doesn't mean anything to it.

Personal Experience: Wash well the car before store it (of course), fill full the gas tank, add gas stabilizer, keep tires well inflated and if you keep it in your garage and weather permits (no new snow, no wet/salty roads) take it out for a couple of spins or at least try to turn on the car on your driveway for a few minutes (5-10 mins) if possible weekly or every other week. This helps to maintain ok your battery charge and avoid marks on your tires.

Last, keep the parking brake off just leave it on "1st" (manual) or "P" (Auto) to avoid marks on your Rr disks. Regularly I put my baby out of the road by November:(, when temp drops below 5 deg Celsius in my area.


When you return the car on the road (April time approx.), change the motor oil right away.


This advice was given for a guy that is a car collector and so far after made this "procedure" on my "twin" for two years, has been working great...


Hope helps.

The parking brake is a drum. It will not leave marks on the rotor.
Do NOT let it idle 5 or 10 minutes during storage. Heat it up completely by driving it or don't start it at all. An inexpensive battery tender will take care of the charge. Starting a car and running it for just a few minutes will kill a battery faster than just leaving it alone since the power required to start it is greater than the charge it will produce at idle.

Jack car up, take all lug nuts off, remove summer tires.
Install winter tires, tighten lug nuts, drop car, torque lug nuts.
Enjoy throughout the winter months! :D


However, if you have a second car and the means for storage, do what Soundman said.

Or do as I do...
Take car to tire shop that stores my snows.
Sip coffee and smoke cigarette while watching new tech try to put lowered car on lift designed for raised pick up trucks.
After a few chuckles at their total bafflement go and tell them to move it to bay one with the lower hoist.
Sip more coffee while they change tires.
Pay my $40 storage and change fee.
Drive away.
Repeat with summer tires in spring.

Do you have TPMS sensors in both sets of wheels?

No. The light is on all winter.

Tcoat: You right, PKB is a drum, but supposed if is leaving on for a long period of time (assuming you don't move the car for weeks-months) can leave a mark on the drum of PKB.


And yes, when I can't take my car for spin, I warm up my car in a driveway for maybe around 20 mins. I try to do this weekly the whole winter, unless have a terrible weather in a row for the full week, then wait for the next week. So far, zero issues with my car. No battery issues at all. One thing that I forgot to mention was that I leave a little open in one of the windows, like 5 mm down since is inside of my garage, supposed to keep humidity away.

this is exactly what i'm talking about...

lol, i addressed all of this. washing the car is for the owner, not the car. dirt doesn't make a car run any more poorly, or make it start harder. it is personal pride.

and i addressed this. unless you're on track-only tires(which aren't supposed to be installed on a car in freezing temps), this is a non-issue for any legal street tire. they might have some flat spots, but they will clear up after a few miles once they get heat in them. if flat spots are still a serious personal concern, get these.

https://www.amazon.com/BUNKERWALL-Ti...GXTDQKBJGQR9KX

the 'run it for 5-10 minutes' is the past lingering. when cars had carbs, a lot of guys had to do this, either because their carbs were out of adjustment, or needed rebuilding. running them for a short time span like that refreshed the fuel within and kept everything functional for a little longer.

these cars don't have carbs, therefore, all you're really doing is encouraging moisture to move around to new and expensive parts.

the 2 best solutions for battery maintenance are to either put the battery on a maintainer while installed in the car(generally the preferred method, only because it keeps the vehicle settings, and is less hassle). or the 2nd most preferred option is to remove the battery from the car and place it on a maintainer within the heated house-- as the battery chemistry is what is most affected by the cold weather. removing it from the car is a pain, but it removes the parasitic draw of the vehicle electronics, which can potentially extend battery life span. but realistically, the amount of time it extends battery life is marginal at best. again, option 2 is more of a 'do something to feel better' option.

funny, i used to leave a work truck in 1st gear all the time. until it randomly dropped out of gear one day and rolled into the side of a semi truck, damaging $4500 worth of custom chrome.

use the parking brake. always use the parking brake. you can get a lot of brake parts for the lesson that cost me $4500.


for dino oil, this is accurate. this is based on the typical 3 months/3k mile typical interval.

for synthetic, which all of these cars should be running, this is unnecessary. synthetic oil doesn't break down like that. if you want to prove me wrong, send it in for analysis.


old time car collectors are notorious for doing things 'because that's how we've always done it' without ever questioning the use of updated technology, materials, or methods.

as a new generation, what is gained by furthering the older generations methods with car technology we don't own.

i prefer to respect the past, but question what has changed, and what is still necessary.


and in a few decades when we're all running nuclear fission cars, all of this will change again!

I have a 1/2" square of black tape, there's no light on my dashboard telling me I'm doing something dangerous. I do have to have my summer wheels on when the car goes in for the annual inspection though because they can't pass it with a safety monitor on.

They used to use vinyl coverings over most electrical wires but then it changed to soy based. Rodents and other little critters think it's food so they chow down.

I'm going to put mine in the garage. Probably put a trickle on it since the battery is coming up on 5 years. That's it.

I don't believe our cars are affected by this. I've heard of korean makes and some fords, but don't recall any toyota or subaru vehicles using soy based insulation.

But good advice anyways, as any sort of shelter out in the elements is going to attract critters

this is factually wrong.
a. a battery maintainer, or outright removing the battery and keeping it in a cool and dry location is a better battery maintenance procedure.
b. as long as the oil is even remotely clean, the engine will not seize up over a single winter.

considering that these cars have plastic gas tanks, i admit, it'd be really impressive get them to rust.

this is also wrong-- car covers neither keep a vehicle entirely dry, or entirely clean. they just keep stuff from falling onto the car from above. they tend to capture moisture rising from the surface below the vehicle, which has been proven to lead to increased rusting/rotting in the undercarriage, which is nearly as bad as just letting the car sit uncovered, imo...

Reported the spam

Annnnnnd there's the link edit.