Driving to idle, RPS's bounce to 2.5k
 

Hello,

I'm new to the Forums, but currently just purchased a 13 Scion FR-S. I purchased this car through my dealership, so I do have 7 days to return it. I'm currently on day 6 and have a consern. Car was running great until these CEL codes came up, P0171 P117B P1170 P0507. I diagnosed the vehicle and replaced the bypass valve. Idle jumping is not as severe but still present( from peak 2.5k to 1.5k). Car also used to idle at 1.1k but now sits at 9k. Sometimes idle does move between 800-1.1k. Does anybody have any information as to what it may be, or heard of anything simmilar. Everything is stock on car except for edlebrock supercharger(with tune). Currently have codes flashed waiting to see if they come back.

Any help/insight would be much appreciated to help diag and determine if I keep the car or just get rid of it.

Throws 4 codes in 6 days of ownership... is this a question. Return it.

I would never buy a car from a dealership with aftermarket FI.

This is the correct answer.

Either they need to fix/resolve whatever issues it has before you take full ownership at no cost to you, possible add in a one year warranty. Or walk away. Plenty of cheap brz/frs/86 out there. If your having issues already, who knows what other issues have yet to show up.

Another red flag is why does the dealer even have a FI frs, owner could have returned to stock and sold car for same or more $ and sold the SC for $3k+ unless something weird is up with it all.

Based off of my Ex's, finding one that isn't a headache is going to be tough. Good thing is I already have the problems in front of me of running lean/ICV valve, which do go hand in hand. Limited options there onwhat the problem could be.

Customer sold car due to financial strain, was original owner and recently moved to NM. Dealer is my company so this isn't something any normal customer has access to

Sounds like you already made up your mind to keep it. So keep it.

Why dealing with these questions and stress yourself? Return, get another one and enjoy posting pictures here!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I enjoy working on cars, just don't want to get lost in a money pit so came here in hopes others may have had simmilar problems with solutions.

Do you have any datalogs?
How many miles before codes popped up?
Is this a ecutek tune?
Did the dealership somehow flash over or erase the tune?
Are you sure factory header with cats still?

Did you preform the basics?
clean maf?
double check every hose clamp is properly clamped?
Can you smoke test for vacuum and boost leaks?
Stock map sensor?
Do you have a boost gauge?
Did the dealer put in wrong octane gas when they filled it up?

Welcome to our forum - :clap:

I would suggest you return it to your dealership with the understanding that IF they get it straightened out, you may be interested in buying it, IF they would give you a limited warranty (or understanding at least).


humfrz

you've got 1 day to return, or a month of issues to sort out. either get a different car, or pony up and dig in.

that car is a project. you're either interested in transportation, or a project. you've got less than 24 hours to decide.

What happened? Did you return it, or did you let the dealership play you for a puppet?

Still tinkering with car, undecided. As for the dealer once again it's a special circumstance.
As for @86TOYO2k17
no data logs,
50 and on 3rd startup,
yes,
no,
yes,
yes,
yes thats accessible,
doing that tonight,
not sure this is first time hearing about it,
and no

A data log would be the best place to start after smoke testing, as it will be able to really narrow down the issue, and helps tremendously to tell if its tune related, or mechanically related.

as for the mileage and startup, I bet the CELs where already on, but got erased and took 50miles / 3 drives to pop back up, could even test it by erasing them and seeing how many miles/drives to re-pop up.

A boost gauge and or aftermarket MAP sensor could help make sure you are making the expected amount of boost, and don't have a boost leak someplace. If stock MAP sensor can only read to about 6PSI if aftermarket MAP it needs to be re-scaled to work properly but can read to much higher depending on BAR.

Trying to find access to a data logger now, smoke test still happening to hopefully remove vacuum leak suspicions.
Car ran the same right after fix so yes CEL was off but car was still acting up.
It's running a Bosch MAP sensor so no idea if it's good enough.
Called Edlebrock again and they stated possible ECU Reflash needed due to having to run lean for so long with Bypass actuator faliure

F that noise.
I wouldn't keep someone elses's screwup.

If it wasn't done properly to begin with I wouldn't touch it.

Update:
Kept car,
Next step replacing IACV(looks like whole TB)