spun bearing after 200kms. edelbrock
 

I installed my edelbrock last weekend, did a few data logs and car was running great. Drove her for 200 KMs this weekend before spinning a main bearing.


Engine had 52000 KMs on it, 2015 FRS.


Found a used engine locally and thinking of trying one more time, part of me just wants to just sell it all.

Just a guy with a 2015 BRZ here talking... want to boost mine in the future. Definitely disconcerting how many posts there are of people spinning bearings and or bending rods.

How much boost? Were you at high load at a low rpm? What was the circumstances when it spun?

What's worse is hearing about this happening to built motors, wish there was a conclusive method to make these motors more bullet proof.

Sorry about your motor!

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@jRuN I'm curious what condition may have caused it as well. Load conditions at low rpm would be my guess if the rod broke, but for a bearing it's anyone's guess.

Who did you have tune the car? I see you said the datalogs looked good - who evaluated them? Typically, a spin bearing is a lubrication condition, not necessarily a tuning error. When is the last time you changed you oil?

Tuner is reputable. Very well known. Dont want to say the name of the tuning company to avoid drama etc.


Driving fine all weekend, merged onto highway maybe 80% throttle. So boost was maybe 7-9 Lbs. Notice smoke pouring from vents, thought I was on fire so pulled over. No flames and popped hood. Noticed oil residue on my hood and on front timing cover, like the pullies slung oil around. There was no leaks, oil level was fine so tried to start it up but wouldn't start.


Waited 15 minutes and it fired up and ran great at idle, revved past 2k rpm and knocking like crazy. Luckily I was close to home so pushed it home. Tried starting it with the belt off just incase it was a pulley issue, nope. Engine is FUCKED.




I change my oil every 2 or 3000 kms. Could of been during tuing when it was running rich indumped too much fuel and fucked with my oil. But I've seen people beat the shit out of the setup I have with zero issues. I did a light pull onto the highway and it blew.

Assuming installed and tuned appropriately. Its kind of just luck of the draw how long you go before it pops. Obviously certain factors contribute to it like how much boost, driving style (track or dd), fluid temps (driving easy not hitting any boost until fully warm, letting off and cooling down when to hot) downshifting to higher rpm instead of accelerating from low rpm especially in a higher gear. But even if you baby it and do everything perfect anything can happen. But tons of people with little to no issues for a very long time. Usually people only post about bad things rather then making a post for every time something good happens.

What weight oil were you running? Sounds like you developed rod knock once the motor started leaking (causing a low oil condition allowing the rod bearing to burn), this was probably a pre-existing condition you weren't aware of. Did you or a previous owner reseal the timing cover? Maybe a leak somewhere around it?


More than likely the crankshaft and rod is toast (if it is just one). Block might be fine, needs to be cleaned top to bottom and measured if reused.


The fastest way to get going though is a used complete motor; sell your damaged motor for $400. If you plan on staying boosted consider at minimum upgrading your rods and if you've got the engine open maybe upgraded valves.


Good luck.

But here's the thing. It's not leaking. It was like pressure built up and shot oil out of something. My oil level is still fine.



I was still on 0w20. Oil temps were 100 C. There was no abrupt bang or noise, I only turned the car off because I smelled burning.



The car can run right now and there is no oil leaking from anywhere.

I also went with this kit because its reliable and just gives it the extra kick. I didnt want a 500 horsepower race car.



Opening up an engine just for this kit was the last thing I wanted to do. I am very much tempted to just put a used engine in keep it stock and sell the kit.

If you only spun a bearing, there shouldn't be oil all over the place. Something else happened

Where did the oil come from specifically?

Stock engines blow. However if you are not willing to accept the possibility of blowing an engine do not boost it.

I am with everyone else. There is something else wrong. A spun bearing does not cause oil to come out, at least not until the rod gives up and goes through the side of the block.

There has to be an installation issue or something strange.

Because oil exists in your wet sump doesn't mean you didn't lose oil pressure; your oil pump is in your timing cover. If you lost pressure there, nothing else is receiving oil. Your rod bearings were starved and caused rod knock.


Without splitting the block I can't be 100% certain but that's what it sounds like.

Is there a solution to the oiling issues these motors encounter when boosted? Upgraded oil pump, gear? Better pickup tube, baffle? it would be real nice to be able to build the motor and upgrade the oil components and be done with it.. rather than go through the process of building the motor, boosting it and still suffer oiling issues.

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Baffle, different pickup tube, bigger oil pan, dry sump, accusump, there are options out there but it gets costly. This failure is much less common than the typical bent rod due to boost.


This sounds like a catastrophic failure of something either in the pulley system or a seal up front. The smoke coming into the car sounds like oil hitting the headers below. I'm unsure of how long the car ran like this but it wouldn't take long if oil pressure was lost.

Did you, by any chance, replace your crank pulley before the supercharger. Some people had oil pump problems due to installation errors

I installed it myself. Been a lisence tech here in Canada for 8+ years. Car was running perfect. My tuner kept giving me revisions after data logs. I had no issues with the car. Lack of oil pressure roasted my bearings yes. But dont understand how it happened after 200 KMs just bad luck on my part.

No. I installed what came with the kit.thats it.

IF there are no other mods, that could have probably happened without the supercharger at a later time. If I were you, I would just swap a used engine and reinstall the supercharger again. But I would also make sure that there wasn't any installation errors that can be repeated. I did >25K miles with JRSC already.

There are a few threads on the forum discussing this. There is a guy who seems to have found a solution which involves a bunch of changes. 1in pickup with much larger screen. Shimmed oil temp sensor so it doesn’t block the oil gallery. Drilled the main feed that feeds the 2/3 rod journals and also increased the size of the grove around the main. He did some other stuff too but it looks like the most beneficial mods were the pickup tube and the mods to the main. I am tempted to buy the killer b pickup as it’s only $130 and easy to install. May do the oil temp shim too.

Do you have a link to the pickup tube and other mods?

The thread is here:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135294

He used the pickup from a 2JZ which is a little bigger than the Killer B but here is a link to the killer b pickup:

https://www.killerbmotorsport.net/ul...ickup-brz.html

Is there a check valve for the PCV with the Edelbrock kit?

Maybe pressure buildup in the crankcase causing oil loss, and subsequently a dry bearing?

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Yep that is it. He boosted his crankcase!

I am pretty sure this it what happened. It was mostly my fault. My shitty gas mixed oil I believe washed down my cylinders causing my compression rings not to seal essentially boosting my crank case. Blew out the seal and loss oil pressure.

How much HP is that good for?

just my two pennies worth
but if you do anything but drive to the shops in these cars go to 5W30 full ester synthetic
the 0W20 is just for fuel economy ( it even says in the manual to use 5W30 for 'hard use')

they are also prone to oil surge problems so sticky tyres , so just about anything over the stock hard as nails primacies will start ot give oil pickup issues
fit a baffle plate or deeper sump . lower pick up etc etc
you can also make a good gain by porting the oil galleries in the front cover as there's a couple of sharp edges / turns in there that create a pressure drop

I'm a newb but how does tyre grip correlate with oil pickup?

more tyre grip means more lateral 'G' which means the oil moves around more inside the engine typically 1 G = 45 Degrees of slope which can mean the oil moves away from the pickup and so the pump pulls in air and KaBoom!

I pull 1.5G in my stock block FRS for 7 years now, zero issues. Pan is already partially baffled from factory.
I also use Amsoil 5W30, which helps though and ensure the oil level is to the top of the range, but not overfilled.

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Let’s see.... 8psi, pump gas, supercharger.... looks like around 234.5 wheel HP.

I've installed a used engine. Lets see how long this one lasts.

Do any of the oil system mods? New pickup, baffle etc?

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Let us know what you find inside the old engine.

I'm curious how you reached this conclusion.