Originally Posted by CraigVM (Post 3241816)

So much is based on what kind of music you listen to and if your a bass fanatic.
The sub size and box design best suited for someone who listens primarily to Rock would be different than that for a rap or dubstep listener.

Originally Posted by CraigVM (Post 3241816)

So much is based on what kind of music you listen to and if your a bass fanatic.
The sub size and box design best suited for someone who listens primarily to Rock would be different than that for a rap or dubstep listener.

Originally Posted by CraigVM (Post 3241816)

So much is based on what kind of music you listen to and if your a bass fanatic.
The sub size and box design best suited for someone who listens primarily to Rock would be different than that for a rap or dubstep listener.

Originally Posted by Mr.ac (Post 3242005)

You know the type of music doesn't mean jack shit.

A sub doesn't care what music you listen too.

The enclosure just makes louder. Any vented box will play louder than a sealed box. They will still sound just as good, just one will be a tad louder.



It's time to kill off that myth dude.

Originally Posted by Mr.ac (Post 3242005)

Any vented box will play louder than a sealed box . . .

Originally Posted by LimitedSlip (Post 3242022)

But the sealed box will produce tighter, more accurate bass assuming the amplifier has an adequate dampening factor so as to control the excursions of the driver.
Kind of depends if you are interested in music or sound effects. Its always about compromises. Just sayin' . . .

Originally Posted by Mr.ac (Post 3242066)

Yes it's about compromises.
But.... depends how the vent is tuned. If it's tunes for a lower frequency it matters not. It's just going to be a bigger box.

Back in my bass head days I always tuned my ports for 35 hertz. Now that's pretty fucking deep. Sure it was 3 cubic ft box but dam with only 300 watts at 135 db. Yeah I won a few awards at the db drag events long time ago.

Originally Posted by Howaitoguru (Post 3242104)

So the box makes a difference too?


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Originally Posted by Howaitoguru (Post 3242104)

So the box makes a difference too?


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Originally Posted by Leonardo (Post 3242420)

This explains things better than I can...
http://audiojudgement.com/thiele-sma...ers-explained/

Originally Posted by Howaitoguru (Post 3242104)

So the box makes a difference too?


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Originally Posted by Mr.ac (Post 3242452)

How dare you use math to explain subwoofers and boxes. :bonk::popcorn:

Just buy a 4th order bandpass cause I'm a bass head.
Or just buy a vented box cause I like rock.
That's sarcasm by the way.


That's a good read.

Originally Posted by soundman98 (Post 3242500)

absolutely. the box is the acoustic space that any speaker operates. you can change how loud your voice is just by cupping your hands around your mouth, the same principle applies to any acoustic device.



here's a video where the same speakers are used in 2 different boxes.



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNGSNqz7-rs







good thing you said it was sarcasm or i was gonna, well, nevermind.



will a bandpass box even fit in these cars?!?



considering that the trunk is 6.9cu ft, i seriously considered sealing the whole thing and using it as the box for 2 15's... i couldn't even run a 10 free air with that!

Originally Posted by Drifter X (Post 3240615)

10" JL W6v2 in a factory spec sealed box and 600w in my trunk. I freaking love it.


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Originally Posted by Howaitoguru (Post 3242794)

So let’s simplify it since you guys know what you’re talking about. If I bought 1 JL W6 10” sub what kind of box should I use? I wanted to get a wheel well box made. However idk if I’ll have enough space to fit that speaker in there. Also what size amp should I run for just that? I was going to get a separate amp for door speakers when I upgraded that. Lastly I wanted to upgrade the head unit and get a capacitor. I’d like it to be simplified. And I’d rather not spend $3000 at radioactiv for a subpar system.


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Originally Posted by Leonardo (Post 3242800)

JL makes a wheel well sub box for our cars. It comes with a woofer, not the one you mentioned. IMO, caps are totally unnecessary, especially for the system you are building. An amp should have enough power for a woofer. I think 200 to 500 watts is a good size sub amp. I had a 100watt x 2 sony Mobile ES amp hooked to two 15" Rockford Fosgate DVC woofers. It hit 137db. So, not all amps are created equal. Anyway, you get what you pay for. (luckily these days car stereos are way cheaper than in the 90's when I was installing them)





https://www.crutchfield.com/S-9m6uFl...SABEgIovfD_BwE

Originally Posted by Howaitoguru (Post 3242821)

Unfortunately I can only find the stealth box that goes in the side.


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Originally Posted by Howaitoguru (Post 3242794)

So let’s simplify it since you guys know what you’re talking about. If I bought 1 JL W6 10” sub what kind of box should I use? I wanted to get a wheel well box made. However idk if I’ll have enough space to fit that speaker in there. Also what size amp should I run for just that? I was going to get a separate amp for door speakers when I upgraded that. Lastly I wanted to upgrade the head unit and get a capacitor. I’d like it to be simplified. And I’d rather not spend $3000 at radioactiv for a subpar system.


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Originally Posted by soundman98 (Post 3242882)

you'd need almost 7" of depth for a w6. i don't believe there's 7" of depth anywhere in the car..



i believe the integrity concepts box might be deep enough, but integrity went dark about a year ago. my stolen box is likely floating around, but i'll give anyone $200 that can find it.



i'm running a 6" deep sub(peerless xxls 10"), and the airspace is just barely what's needed. i think a w6 would be oversized for the box.



why a w6?



what exactly are your goals for space, and expectations for loudness?



any car audio shop is going to encourage you to buy everything, what are your overall goals? 2 amps in 2 separate installs is going to be a pain.

Originally Posted by Leonardo (Post 3242830)

Do you mean the kind that fits in the spare tire?

Originally Posted by Howaitoguru (Post 3242896)

Yeah JL doesn’t have one. They just have stealthboxes that go in the passenger side space in the trunk. I guess that’s technically the wheel well too huh? But yeah I meant the wheel well for the spare.


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Originally Posted by soundman98 (Post 3242908)

What is your overall goal? Are you only interested in more/better bass? Does it need to just add a little low end, or does it need to set off car alarms 3 blocks away? What kind of trunk space are you willing to sacrifice? What kind of budget were you originally thinking? Is the rest of the factory system currently up to your standard, or is it lacking more than just bass? What do you currently have the bass/treble settings set to?

I'm trying to get a feel for your intentions before i start running through recommending pieces. There's a way to fit needs for $500, and there's a way to fit needs for $50,000. I'm trying to understand where you fall in price, listening preferences, and expectations.

Originally Posted by Leonardo (Post 3242923)

I had the pioneer one (that fits in the spare tire) in my car, it wasn't quite enough bass with the back seat up for me. So I upgraded to one 10". Some RSX came with the spare tire sub from the factory, so you can still find them used too.

Originally Posted by soundman98 (Post 3243365)

the rsx and murano used the same spare tire sub. i have one. they're going for around $75 on ebay. 1. it's a bose product, 2. it's got dual 5" drivers in a ported enclosure.



i haven't hooked mine up yet, got it mostly for the novelty. i know going into it that it's going to be best suited for soft listening volumes of classical/rock/country.
















@Howaitoguru



preventing speakers from blowing is all about the tuning of the system, not exactly the gear chosen.



with the rubber mat in the trunk, the sub is going to have a hard time breathing, usually when a sub takes the place of the spare, they cover it with speaker grille fabric so the sub can push air around the trunk.



if you're looking to hit hard, be sure to include sound dampening in the overall build-- the trunk lid needs it at a minimum, i had to do the rear deck as well. account for around $100 for material for that.





for the sub, you like the w6, so while i've got plenty of oddball recommendations, it looks like it should fit fine yet in this box at least according to the airspace requirements:

https://shop.wickedcas.com/scion-fr-...ab-description



though you'd need to contact them to be sure that the depth would not be an issue, as it's not listed in the description. $375 is on par for fiberglass work.



of course, a spare tire box would also be a possibility. the difference being that if you go with the link, if you decide 1 is not enough, it's easier to add a second to the other side at any point down the road.



i think it's fair to budget around $300-400 for a custom box of either design.



as far as the amp, i recommend the alpine v9. i generally go through sonic electronix, as they offer their own warranty to guarantee that it'll work, despite them not being a certified alpine reseller-- which means they can sell it cheaper--usually around $400-460 compared to $800-ish from a normal reseller. price-wise the v9 is one of the better-priced 100x4 + 500x1 amps from any brand. i was just researching an amp for my truck build and couldn't find a better cost-per-watt amp from anyone else at the moment.



i would also recommend one of these to tune the system.

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...audio--230-500



i've currently got one on order for my truck build, as i'm running into an issue where the deck won't cross over the a-pillar speakers any higher than 200hz, and they start buzzing with any frequencies under 600hz



another important note is to look specifically for OFC, Oxygen Free Copper wiring. CCA or Copper Clad Aluminum is starting to become the norm, but it has issues at high power levels with heating up. i generally recommend knuconcepts kolosses flex line, for it's consistent quality.



http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-au...tallation-kit/





and that's just the sub/amp/wiring. still not a main deck, or front speakers. my rough tally puts the cost(depending on reseller deals) for this alone around $1700.





for front speakers, i highly recommend you try some different component speakers at the local shops. for instance, i generally find kenwoods to 'exist'. they don't play extremely loud usually, but they also don't call attention to themselves.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...FC-P710PS.html



then there's component speakers like the infinity reference. i love the midrange response of them, always have, but i have a special hatred for the tweeters they use. i find them much too shrill. but many people like the sound infinities offer.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...FC-P710PS.html



pioneer also has a few offerings in the same price bracket that might be worth considering.



i would not recommend spending more than $200 for a front component set. they don't upgrade the electronics in the higher end versions, they only use more exotic speaker materials, so unless you're into bragging rights about what things are made of, there's no point.



i also don't really see a point to recommending anything for the rear speakers, as those are really just very basic 3" speakers loosely attached to a bracket, so not as much is gained by spending money on them. personally, i haven't run rear speakers in 10 years now, and i don't miss them. in a car with rear 6x9's, it would be justifiable to replace them, but not in the case of these cars.





for a more 'oddball' setup, i recommend some gear that i'm running:

in the dash:

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...8-ohm--295-349



in the doors:

https://www.parts-express.com/peerle...ofer--264-1092



with the v9 amp, i don't believe i've ever had the volume above 30(goes up to 62 on my radio)