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1/2 vs 3/8 wrench?
If you could have only one size wrench/socket/hex and torx bit, set to do most car basics,
- engine oil change - atf/diff fluid change - basic bolt on part swaps - changing wheels/lugs Would you get a 3/8 or 1/2? Reason is ask is that i see the most versatile torque wrenches that can do smaller bolts all the way to wheel lugs are usually 1/2s. And im just wondering if i should start my entire tool set with a set of 3/8s, and then just get an adapter for 3/8s for use with a versatile 1/2 torque wrench Or can i get away with all these basic maintenance with a full 1/2 set? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
If only 1, then 1/2"
If 2, 1/2" and 1/4" If 3 1/2"-3/8"-1/4" I also like my 3/4" drive, I rarely use it, but it's the boss for front sprockets Also look at a set of ratchet combo spanners, they are the most used tool in my tool box |
10mm & 14mm
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3/8 is your best bet if you're only doing small things. I've done everything on my cars aside wheels with a 15 year old 3/8 Craftsman socket set.
This honestly is silly though, spend $150 and get a large set of each. You'll want 1/2 eventually. 3/8 is smaller and easier to work with in the engine bay. It's also cheap enough to find used tools. Unless it's broken, there is no difference unless you want specific or fancy features |
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humfrz |
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https://www.amazon.com/Tohnichi-Adju.../dp/B002TTN26Y Its a Tohnichi made in japan, can do 29.5 ft - 147.5 ft. Thats pretty much everything from oil changes (39 ft) to tire changes (120ft) right? |
3/8 wrench and sockets with adapter to go up or down if necessary. I also just use an adapter 1/2>3/8 for my 1/2" torque wrench. I think I've twisted off an adapter once in 20 years.
The times that you need those larger size, 1/2" drive sockets are so few and far between (on our cars anyway), it's just not worth building a set around them imo. |
I'd go with 3/8", since you can add quality extensions, wobble sockets and specialty items cheaper. The market for hand tools is mostly centered on 3/8", so you'll have better availability of add-ons going forward.
If you really want a 1/2" torque wrench, an adapter won't hurt anything until you can buy a basic set of 1/2" sockets. I've been wrenching on my own cars for 35 years and didn't buy a set of 1/2" sockets until just the past year when I got my Milwaukee impact. My go-to kit is a 3/8" Kobalt 200 piece mechanic's tool set from Lowe's, the one in the tall case that folds out flat. I have drawers full of other wrenches, yet I always end up pulling the Kobalt kit out first. I know it's still a few months away, but if you can wait until Black Friday, Lowe's always puts their mechanic sets on sale for as little as half the regular price. Now that Lowe's also has Craftsman, I would expect some decent deals on that brand as well if you prefer how they suck over the Kobalt tools. |
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You will find over time that the torque on bolts with very light torque specs can be critical. A couple of my cars have light (19 ft lbs) torque on their water pumps and/or thermostat housings, such that if you overtighten them they will pinch the gasket and leak, break ears off the pieces or cause the bolts to break off when you try to get them out a few years later. It's harder to guess right without a torque wrench when it's that light. |
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Thats some great advice. I would assume using high quality tq wrenches with 3/8 and 1/2 sockets that are branded china-made would still be ok and shouldn’t affect torque application and reading? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
They both have their positives and that is why I like a mixed set.
Some of the work requires bigger sockets that only 1/2 in will have. |
They both have their positives and that is why I like a mixed set.
Some of the work requires bigger sockets that only 1/2 in will have. |
Hands down 3/8 is more useful than 1/2 inch. 60% of the time I use 3/8, 30% 1/4", and 10% 1/2".
For suspension for sure you'll want some half inch stuff and a decent breaker bar, but most work you do will not require sockets that big. This is generally speaking. If you want to get into tight spaces a set of 1/2" tools will leave you wanting. As a general rule you shouldn't be adapting when using torque wrenches, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. |
this is like picking which kid is a parents favorite.
they've all got their gifts. we're not supposed to talk about which one is actually the favorite. but my go-to is 3/8" |
You're not "supposed" to, but every parent still has one. ;) :D
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The best investment I made was getting this 3/8 Milwaukee ratchet.
https://images.homedepot-static.com/...20-64_1000.jpg |
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I think they're talking about drive size, not wrench size. |
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Fixed that for you. I keep trying to adopt a Harvard educated doctor. |
you must be young. money is nice, but health is better.
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51? Feels old... |
1/2 vs 3/8 wrench?
What? No mention of Harbor Freight?
You can poopoo them all you want, but we don’t all have the $$$ for SnapOn. HF works just fine AND you can buy 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 plus torque wrenches for low $ if you watch the ads. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Sadly i live in the philippines so those lifetime warranties dont apply or are too hassle to ship around. What do you think about stanley and dewalt though? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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CDI for torque wrenches on a budget. Stanley isn't what it used to be. I forget who dewalt buys from. |
Harbor Freight is a good resource if used properly, but I do NOT recommend their torque wrenches. I've got their 1/2" and 3/8" versions, and they are extremely inaccurate, especially in the lower ranges. I've broken critical small fittings because the wrenches failed to register, and now don't trust'em so I only use them when I need a ratchet w/ a little more long-handled oomph..sort of a pre-breaker bar. A good torque wrench or two is on my short list.
As far as 3/8 or 1/2, I say go for it and get the WHOLE wrench...what are ya gonna do w/ 3/8 of a wrench? |
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i use mostly hazard fraught tools at home, don't have problems with them, but they don't get used much. Quote:
https://pow-jrk.netdna-ssl.com/wp-co...hat-Brands.jpg so while unaware, you literally asked if a scion or toyota was better. stanley is their lower/homeowner grade stuff, dewalt is considered more of their contractor grade stuff, and does cost more. either is perfectly fine, in this case, the cost is related to how much use/abuse the tool can take. if you're just tinkering on the car in your free time here and there, stanley stuff is just fine. if you start doing major work all the time, dewalt is going to be a better option. |
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Never use extensions or adapters on torque wrenches if you're aiming for precision. Hence why I always suggest getting a 3/8 torque wrench for people first building their tool sets. You'll need the 3/8 way more (oil pan, trans, diff, brakes, etc.). In terms of what brand, etc. I don't know what's available abroad. I'd avoid anything but higher quality for your precision torque wrench. If it fails you, things can get really expensive. If a cheaper socket set or set of spanners fails, you'll generally not hurt the thing you're working on. In the US, I have had good luck with Craftsman torque wrenches. They used to be harder to find but now Lowe's bought the line so they're everywhere. Harbor Freight is a horrible, horrible option for torque wrenches. I love HF for specific things like trim tools that seem to all be made from the same company anyway and need to be periodically replaced due to wear. But a quality torque wrench should last your lifetime, even if it doesn't say SnapOn on it. For some of the jobs you mention, such as trans and diff bolts, depending on the rust you encounter the one set of tools that will be useful will be a good set of breaker bars in 3/8 and 1/2 drives with multiple handle lengths. Breaker bars are cheap and prevent you from damaging all of your other tools when faced with difficult bolt removal. While they are usually pretty stout, if you do bend a breaker bar handle, it's not a big deal to replace it compared to a more expensive ratchet or spanner. |
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