Update on J02 recall failure.
 

2013 frs 120k

*update after recall failure

Long story short, my engine was knocking occasionally and i been fighting with the dealer that there is a problem but they kept saying my car is fine. ( i been at the dealer almost 10 times, demonstrated the noise to service manager, director, tech). After complaining to Corp, i got a call from the GM and told me to demonstrate the noise and tech finally admitted hearing some "ticking". But a Toyota corp. guy who travels around, happen to be in the area and he drove my car, and told the Dealer that it is knocking.(this is what GM told me) And i got another call from GM, asking for permission to wait for Toyota corp engineers to show up the next week. And today, they came and oversaw the engine tear down. And lo and behold, sealant is all over the pick up screen. Dealer finally admitted fault and giving me new short block. Toyota is not paying for anything, dealer has to eat the cost.

To be honest bearings doesn't look too bad, the ones i saw.

Here's some pictures.

https://imgur.com/a/HGboxTZ

Video of timing cover.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_c1bKuaisPc[/ame]



Video of cams and some bearings.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lsbl...ature=youtu.be

Update on J02 recall failure.
 

Are they going to warranty the new motor?

Um, wow. The amount of broken off excessive sealant is mind blowing .

Did you see the video? Back of the camshafts look caked in sealant

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GM mentioned 12 month, he wasn't completely sure.

I see very little if any packing at all on the top of the grove on your timing cover. Not only would most of the packing squeeze into the cover but it probably would have leaked before too long. This is the second cover I’ve seen now where they didn’t lay the bead in the right location. They all seem to think it goes inside that grove when really it belongs on top. The instructions have an illustration for toddlers showing a big red X saying not to do it like they did yours.

Nice fight. NICE FIGHT.

That first video should be shown to every tech that is doing this repair.

yes, the techs are not following instructions. Didn't even replace my exhaust gaskets on the headers. And sealant was applied at wrong places, when it says DO NOT APPLY sealant here on the instruction. And some threads looks like they got sealant in them.

msaikhan


msaikhan I was just communicating with you through FB in the normally aspirated FT86 group about this.


My car is at the shop right now getting this done. I am considering pulling the oil pan and oil pickup tube and checking things out after about 100 miles following the repair. If anyone has a link to good instructions for removal and replacement of the lower oil plan/oil pickup tube I would be interested. Thank you.

Update on J02 recall failure.
 

I’ve never dropped the pan with the engine in the car but another member just dropped his pan after the recall and did it without pulling the engine so I know it’s possible. You would need to remove the header and then simply remove all the oil pan bolts and then use a putty knife and hammer to work through the packing. Before starting order a tube of Threebond 1217H. You will need a caulk gun to apply the packing.

Also before cleaning make sure you clean ALL of the original packing off the pans. Try hard not to scrap the pans. Use a plastic putty knife to remove the old stuff. It’s a pain in the ass.

The problem seems to be that by the time you hear knocking, its too late.

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Yes that's why I would do it at 100 miles rather than when it is knocking.

Update on J02 recall failure.
 

I just worry that you will drop the pan and find packing in your pickup and then go complain to the dealer and they will claim you voided your warranty by dropping your pan.

I’m curious what a dealer would charge you to drop the pan and check the pickup. At least then they are doing the work and can’t pawn it off on you if they find packing.

BTW, the other member that dropped his pan proactively did end up finding packing in his pickup. You could clear the pickup and possibly consider yourself lucky but there is no telling where else the packing might be stuck.

Quick question for you, they are replacing the short block. What other parts could be damaged by clogged screen? basically what should be replaced after this other than short block. I was thinking cams etc... but not sure what else.

It’s kind of hard to tell how bad the cams are watching the video on my phone. Didn’t look that bad from what I can tell. If they are damaged then most likely the journals on the heads are also damaged. If you can get them to cover them under warranty then go for it. I would also replace the OCV filters while it’s apart. There are 4 of them and they are cheap and drop right in.

Do you have any pictures of the front cam caps? Subaru warns about hydrolocking old packing in one of the bolt holes and busting out the back side leaving shards of aluminum in the head.

no i don't a picture of that, i posted everything i have. The cams didn't have any deep scratches but some sealant on it and like very light black scraches where it rolls. I'm just trying to get them to replace/inspect everything that could've been affected by this.

This is a slippery slope. What happened with the focus rs was they replaced the gasket but didn't fix the cylinder scoring in many cases. I'd push to replace the cams and bearings if possible.

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If the screen at the oil pickup were significantly blocked, shouldn't a sensor report a low oil pressure reading to the warning lights in the gauge cluster?

No, the oil light just means you engine blew. Hahaha. Seriously

Does the FA20 engine have oil "pressure" - or, is the oil jest slopping around in there?

Maybe they should have stuck with the old oil dippers?

On second thought, that wouldn't have worked - they went and put the engine in sideways - :(


humfrz

Dating yourself much?

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maybe?

They actually tested my oil pressure on my car, and said it came up normal.

Perhaps it did for the short time they tested. Once the screen was full of crap I doubt it was producing enough pressure for redline. Hell they may not have even let it get up to normal temps before calling it a success. This car takes a good 10-15 mins of driving (not just idling) to get up to 180F. When cold it will generate really high numbers even at idle.

If you are worried about engine condition, you could ask to have a machine shop inspect your heads, cams, etc prior to assembly.

I got a list of parts they are going to be replacing. Let me know if i should push on other parts added to this list.
Thanks,

short block
cam carrier
oil pump integrated with front cover
both intake gears vvt actuator
thermostat

Just musing here.. but if they're replacing cam carrier wouldn't it stand to reason the camshafts were damaged as well?

Yea, thats one of the things i'm worried about. But looks like they are trying to replace all the oil ports, not necessary all bearing type parts.